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Thank you sir you are doing gods work

All my 6 bolts are rusted and stripped and can't find a way to remove the bolt since I can't fit my extractor. Anyone know a solution?

Can u plz help me I’m stuck on my infinity fx35 they mad this even harder I got everything apart noe I can’t get the bolts back in for the other cv axle should I have to take the boot off the new one to??

My car has a different cv axle? Mine has 3 screws

Thanks for the video … my 2013 g37X has a similar arrangemrnt … my wheel bearing had seized on the axle shaft …after removing the boot from below,I just pulled the old axle out.. it wasn’t pretty and I had trouble with the cup spinning when I was removing the 10 mm bolts, which have actually # 5 Torx fittings on them since there was no shaft to grab… I ended up stripping the boots off the old axle and sledgehammer the wheel, bearing off the old axle and used that end with the nylon roller bearing as a tool to stop the cup from moving. New carquest axle had 32 mm star nut … I got lucky and f😢ound a socket for it at advance… We put the old axle end in the cup and put a vice grips on the shaft to hold it while I used a easy out tool on one of 10 mm bolts The very last bolt did not cooperate and I stripped the head on it so I had to use an easy out on it, but it worked unbelievably.Those 6-10 mm bolts are tight… my beefy air gun was at a standstill ! We use the staples compressed, air canned turned upside down it sprays, cold, air out and freezes the fitting. It helped do the trick pretty nifty ..We even try to breaker bar set up, but it just is too tight. It was starting to overheat and smoke was coming from. That’s how hot it got while we were trying to get that last bolt out.. Now to put it all back …together, I will say that it takes two people to do this efficiently because one person can be working from the fender- well while the other one is on his back, looking up and telling what’s going on at the business end of the whole thing … thanks to Geo…

This is the single best video on CZcams. This job is a beeyotch, I can't imagine attempting it without this vid. Easily thebiggest PITA front axle replacement I've ever done. There's some detail left out of the vid, but the fact that it was filmed at night should pretty much tell you all you need to know; no doubt OP started the job during the day but all the BS made the job drag out until night. First of all, I'm in Michigan, so my 2011 is kinda rusty underneath. But I still got all 6 of the flange bolts out without breaking any. This is really a 2 person job. I had to take the steering knuckle completely off, which means I had to detach the upper and lower ball joints and the bracket that holds the brake hoses. And I had to remove a small bracket that hold the ABS wheel speed sensor so I could slide the brake hose bracket off the top of the knuckle. This vid is worth watching just for the hot tip to remove the inner boot so you can get a socket on the bolts. But the fun is just beginning once you get the knuckle off and the boot cut off. Those 6 flange bolts are pretty freaking tight, even with the tip to cut the boot off. I called a mechanic buddy to help me (it was Saturday). The problem was I couldn't loosen the bolts without also turning the tripot flange. My buddy was able to put a 10mm open end with a cheater on a bolt while I loosened another bolt. Rinse and repeat. Every time a bolt broke loose I gave my can of PB Blaster a pat on the head. You really need to remove the strut yoke that attaches to the lower control arm. The inner boot won't fit through it. So you have to have a guy stand on the lower control arm after the yoke is disconnected so that you can get the axle through. This was a 4 hour job with 2 guys who've done this before on other cars. Plan accordingly.

It bolts on for access to the starter if anyone needs to replace your starter easily

So what was the torque specs, nd how did you torque it?

The glazing is crazy here

Any one tried loosening the 6 bolts from under the car 1st . Is they accessible? Just to crack em. Then tinker with the knuckle?

Why remove the cup with the six bolts? Just pull the axle and be done with it. Maybe I’m misunderstanding something

Did anyone find the torque specs?

Thank you for making this video 🙏

Thank you so much for making this!

Great video. I was wondering the same thing when removing my axle since I seen the axle doesn’t just pull out like most normal axles do and has bolts, which led me to your video thanks !

Did you find the torque specs for the bolts that hold the axle onto the transmission? I'm doing the job right now on a 03 FX45. The bolts came right off with a long extension and an impact wrench. Just need the torque to put them back on. It does look like they used lock tight too.

Is passenger side the same?

Gold

They mad cause God drives a g37x so they took off all the good videos jealous haters

Great explanation on this job

Thanks good job

Liked,subscribed ,full notification you the man dude!

Bro thank you so much! This is so simple to take socket wrench straight on this demon bolts by removing the metal strap and the boot. This is genius and awesome!

thank you!! my son has this car... passenger side is gone... hope this side stays good!!! lol!!

Why not just leave the piece with the 6 bolts there and just install the new axle without said piece inside it?

Hi Billy Bob, First of all, thank you!!! Very helpful video... So now that you have removed the CV axle, how did you torque the bolts on the new CV axle without removing the collar? Thx - TD

Thanks for the tips bro. Really helpful. I felt your pain when the you laid your knee on the bolt lol

How do you keep the the part that’s attached to the transmission from spinning to take the 6 nuts off

Thanks for the video. I finally got around to replacing my 2006 Infiniti M35X drivers side CV Axle. I followed your method of removing the boot from the metal cup that fastens to the transmission. Your method of a 2' extension bar worked well , I started putting penetrating fluid on those six bolts a week before I started this job a few times. I just used the 2' extension bar and a breaker bar to manually remove those 6 10mm bolts. Said thank you God as each one of those bolts "cracked " off. The bolts came out in good shape so I reused them. I am figuring the G35X is similar to my M35x. As I looked everything over I realized that if you removed the top bolt on the top control arm from the knuckle ,then remove the bolt that holds the strut to the knuckle, disconnect the steering rack end ,then remove the bolt that holds the sway bar link to the knuckle ,you can just push the entire knuckle down. This allows you to slip the axle underneath the the forked bottom part of the strut. No need to loosen the top strut bolts either. The diameter of the forked area of the strut is too small to fit that metal cup through. So this way you don't have to "loosen" the cup from the new axle and reattach a new band. Now about those 6 damn bolts. Of course you have to take the engine bottom plastic cover off. Then you can hand fit the bolts in and use an open end 10mm wrench to tighten them. I also had a small driver a "Waldin 3117" It is not a ratcheting driver but it is a small about a 6" length and takes 1/4 " sockets. I could get a shallow 10 mm socket and tediously tighten the bolts. The torque specs for those bolts is 33 ft. lbs. so just tighten them as much as you can. You can feel in back that the bolts went into the receiving end. I found that vice grips attached to the outer end of the new axle allowed me to turn the axle to get access to all the bolts. I had both front tires off the ground on jack stands doing this job. I got all the parts from Rock Auto .com they are very reasonable. Had to change the bearing at the same time. I had ordered a new sway bar link also. Just a tip if after removing the 4 bolts that hold on the bearing and the bearing will not come off ,reinsert the bolts with a few turns and get a cold chisel and a mallet and tap /hit the bolts with the chisel ,that will push the bearing out ,the knuckle part is not threaded. The torque for the 4 bolts that hold the bearing to the knuckle is 82 ft .lbs. The axle nut torque spec is 92 ft. lbs. This is not a fun easy job but I figured I saved a lot of $ DIY. I have change the axles on my Subaru and my daughters Toyota Corolla .Fairly easy to do. The Infiniti a pain in the ass. Just a additional note when you put the old or a new bearing on make sure you put it on correctly ,there is a bottom and top ,if you put the bearing in upside down the ABS sensor will not be in the right place and you just might break that sensor.

the Ist time is always the hardest. Hopefully there will be no next time

Easy to get 6 bolts out. PAIN in the ass put the bolts back in. Bolt heads and threads are very easy to strip when installing.

I have a 2013 G37X AWD. Doesn't look too much different from mine. I found with long extensions I was able to get over top of boot and get my socket on the six 10mm bolts with impact rated sockets. As far as the reinstall there's no need to cut the boot or any of that. At least on mine there's 2 bolts right behind the rotor right in front of the strut bracket that looks to be some sort of mechanical safety piece that just incase there's a catastophic failure with the bolt that holds the strut bracket it will prevent the strut bracket from sliding forward and the driver enough time to pull over without losing control. Once removed I was able to lift the bracket up and it left plenty of space to fit the new cv axle through. Pretty much a straight shot from there. I was able to use the torque wrench from this angle too with the extension!! This saves a lot of time from having to disconnect unnecessary parts to do the job!

Those six bolts are easily accessible from underneath the car. At least on my 04 G35X.

You are my favorite person, that intro spoke to me. Thank you soooooo much

Replaced mine with updated bolts they have a #10 and a allen key option. I was able to put the new one on a lot faster with the allen keys

The real question is, how the hell did you manage to install the new one?? Did you remove the boot from the new axle to get to the bolts to tighten them?

Ummmmm...... first of all thanks...... but....I just got to one...... and I wasnt the first..... I'm glad to see it's 6 bolts, cuz the one I saw was 2 holes with threads, and 4 sheared/Sawzall nubs.... now.... I've been called captain obvious enough times, that I believe I shouldve promoted to commander or something.... but.... to the right of that flange, I see another single bolt that o believe holds on the cv flange to Tranny portion.... would that not be the trick to a quick and easy removal? Mate your new shiny clean one to it on the bench, and replace the tranny seal while ur at it?... I'm looking at an 07, but I bet yours has the same.... just curious... still looking for info.. Thanks

That bro very detail how to get it off. You have save me a serious headache. Peace!!!

Doing good work spreading the news! Does anyone know if it's the same situation for 2007-08 G35X (V36 NOT the V35^)

Well, thank you for the vid, but , I guess there's still no video on how to replace driver side axel. 😂😂😂 didn't see you remove or install the axel. Wth, maaaaan!

I have an 08 and needed to the out the same stuff just to change the starter. Now im in the process of putting it back on, any recommendations on how to re-grease and put it back on without messing it all up and less hassle?

People don’t realize what you posted here is just gold. FYI the Q50 AWD has the same design. Pain in the... Spent a whole day doing these and then two of the six freaking bolts got stuck on. Broke two Craftsman sockets trying to get them out. So had to remove the whole axle coming from the transmission. Be careful screwing back the three bolts that hold that part in. I messed up two of the mounts cause the torque needed was so little. I’m so pissed at myself and Infiniti for this 🔥 Busting a new motor’s transmission axle mount for this messed up design is insane. There is way less space to work with in the Q50 AWD also. Great job man. I don’t even want to drive the car anymore.

Thankyou huge help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What tool did you use to tighten the bolts when you replaced the cv axel? And what did you torque the bolts down to? I’m currently having issue finding a tool that will allow me to tighten them up.

Thanks, I have a 2006 Infiniti M35X, same stupid design. Why, why, why would Infiniti design something like this? I think Infiniti should send the engineer that designed this piece of crap to Canada and the rust belt US states to replace Infiniti CV joints of this design for at least 3 months. Then he can go back to Japan and come up with a better design. Let him have fun taking off those 6 rusty bolts. I have changed the CV axels on my daughters Toyota Corolla and my Subaru, no 6 F@##ing rusty tiny bolts with crappy access!!! Just for fun, I looked up what Infiniti Canada wants for a drivers side CV axel, the "discount" dealership was $1000.00 CDN. Rock Auto has one for $65.00 CDN. Guess what I will be buying.

It would have been a better video he did a step by step ..

Keep in mind junk yards will most likely sell you the whole axle with the bolts attached, which is another nightmare to replace.

Good stuff

Thank you!

You're the best buddy!!!