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LIER
Finland
Registrace 1. 03. 2020
I produce educational HEMA content.
My main focus is on longswords, cutting and body mechanics.
My main focus is on longswords, cutting and body mechanics.
Kvetun Sharp Longsword Prototypes
My thoughts on sharp longsword prototypes from Kvetun.
These three prototypes are an excellent start for Kvetun sharps.
This is not a review so do not take it as such.
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Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:14 Disclaimer
4:26 Overview
13:01 Usability
24:29 Cutting
26:43 Conclusions
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Music used:
XTaKeRuX - Pursuing Darkness - Public Domain
freemusicarchive.org/music/XTaKeRuX
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#lierreview #hema #sword #longsword #kvetun #prototype
These three prototypes are an excellent start for Kvetun sharps.
This is not a review so do not take it as such.
--------------------------------------
Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:14 Disclaimer
4:26 Overview
13:01 Usability
24:29 Cutting
26:43 Conclusions
--------------------------------------
Music used:
XTaKeRuX - Pursuing Darkness - Public Domain
freemusicarchive.org/music/XTaKeRuX
--------------------------------------
#lierreview #hema #sword #longsword #kvetun #prototype
zhlédnutí: 1 125
Video
How to Fight with a Longsword 16 - Sources
zhlédnutí 438Před 2 lety
In this final episode of the series we'll take a look at the historical sources. Pseudo-Peter von Danzig - wiktenauer.com/wiki/Pseudo-Peter_von_Danzig Sigmund ain Ringeck - wiktenauer.com/wiki/Sigmund_ain_Ringeck Pseudo-Hans Döbringer - www.wiktenauer.com/wiki/Pseudo-Hans_Döbringer Fellowship of Liechtenauer - wiktenauer.com/wiki/Fellowship_of_Liechtenauer Chapters 0:00 Intro 0:15 Disclaimer 1:...
How to Fight with a Longsword 15 - Sparring
zhlédnutí 469Před 2 lety
In this episode we'll take a look at Sparring. Lesson plan 10 min - Warm up 10 min - Gear and how to spar 65 min - Sparring 5 min - Feedback Chapters 0:00 Intro 0:15 Disclaimer 1:00 Freeplay 4:12 Sparring gear 7:03 Illegal targets 7:37 Goal of sparring 16:09 How to spar 21:17 Outro Paired drill partner: Toni Heikura Music used: XTaKeRuX - Pursuing Darkness - Public Domain freemusicarchive.org/m...
How to Fight with a Longsword 14 - Durchlaufen
zhlédnutí 559Před 2 lety
In this episode we'll take a look at the Durchlaufen. Lesson plan 10 min - Warm up 10 min - Recap previous lesson 25 min - Durchlaufen on non-dominant side 20 min - Durchlaufen on dominant side 10 min - Wrestling at arms 10 min - Sword taking 5 min - Feedback Chapters 0:00 Intro 0:15 Disclaimer 2:14 Wrestling at body, non-dominant side 5:27 Wrestling at body, dominant side 7:52 Wresting at arms...
How to Fight with a Longsword 13 - Abschneiden and Hentdrucken
zhlédnutí 801Před 2 lety
In this episode we'll take a look at two new Hauptstucke, the Abscheiden and the Hentdrucken. We will also be takin a look at the Vier Schnitten. Lesson plan 10 min - Warm up 15 min - Recap previous lesson 5 min - About the sources 20 min - Abschneiden (Danzig) 25 min - Abschneiden (Ringeck), Víer Schnitten (Danzig) 10 min - Hentdrucken 5 min - Feedback Chapters 0:00 Intro 0:15 Disclaimer 1:04 ...
How to Fight with a Longsword 12 - Langort, Alber and Schaitelhaw
zhlédnutí 911Před 2 lety
In this episode we'll go back to Langort and take a closer look at how it can be used. We will also learn the last guard of the View Leger and the last cut of the Vier Versetzen. Those being the Alber and the Schaitelhaw. Lesson plan 10 min - Warm up 15 min - Recap previous lesson 40 min - Langort 20 min - Alber and Schaitelhaw 5 min - Feedback Chapters 0:00 Intro 0:15 Disclaimer 1:03 Langort 6...
How to Fight with a Longsword 11 - Krumphaw
zhlédnutí 945Před 2 lety
In this episode we will learn our third Meisterhaw, the Krumphaw. As with the two previous ones Krumphaw is also one of the View Versetzen. We will also learn a new guard, the Schranckhut. Lesson plan 10 min - Warm up 15 min - Recap previous lesson 15 min - Krumphaw 5 min - Krumphaw against Ochs 15 min - Krumphaw from Schranckhut 25 min - Krumphaw as parry riposte 5 min - Feedback Chapters 0:00...
Helsinki Longsword Open 2022 - Cutting Competition Design
zhlédnutí 173Před 2 lety
In this video I'll explain my thought process behind designing the cutting competition for Helsinki Longsword Open 2022. The competition was held in Helsinki 20.-21.5.2022. Round 1 Cutting - czcams.com/video/A0EcVOApr8Y/video.html Round 2 Cutting - czcams.com/video/w0eQYIkOH3s/video.html Finals Cutting - czcams.com/video/g3k0qhl4LUg/video.html Rules document - ehms.fi/wp-content/uploads/2022/05...
Helsinki Longsword Open 2022 - Cutting Competition Round 2
zhlédnutí 251Před 2 lety
This is the second round for the cutting competition at Helsinki Longsword Open 2022. The competition was held in Helsinki 20.-21.5.2022. Chapters 0:00 Intro 0:15 Cutting pattern explanations 0:43 Bart Jongsma 2:45 Kristian Ruokonen 5:10 Mattias Brännström 7:42 Tim Beerens 9:55 Ville Välimäki 11:49 Scores and Outro Music used: XTaKeRuX - Pursuing Darkness - Public Domain freemusicarchive.org/mu...
How to Fight with a Longsword 10 - Schielhaw
zhlédnutí 966Před 2 lety
In this episode we will learn the second of the Meisterhaw, the Schielhaw. As with the Zwerchhaw, Schielhaw is also one of the View Versetzen. Lesson plan 10 min - Warm up 15 min - Recap previous lesson 25 min - Schielhaw against Pflugh 10 min - Schielhaw against Langort 25 min - Schielhaw against Oberhaw 5 min - Feedback Chapters 0:00 Intro 0:15 Disclaimer 1:12 Schielhaw against Pflugh 4:31 Sc...
Helsinki Longsword Open 2022 - Cutting Competition Round 1
zhlédnutí 231Před 2 lety
This is the first round for the cutting competition at Helsinki Longsword Open 2022. The competition was held in Helsinki 20.-21.5.2022. Chapters 0:00 Intro 0:15 Cutting pattern explanations 0:31 Bart Jongsma 1:48 Henric Jansen 3:05 Jacub Dobi 4:44 Jonas Brügi 5:51 Kristian Ruokonen 7:30 Majken Roelfszema 9:11 Mattias Brännström 11:30 Pim Baeten 12:50 Reima Parviainen 14:25 Rúnar Páll Benedikts...
How to Fight with a Longsword 09 - Zwerchhaw
zhlédnutí 601Před 2 lety
In this episode we will learn the first of the Meisterhaw, the Zwerchhaw. Zwerchhaw is also one of the View Versetzen. Lesson plan 10 min - Warm up 15 min - Recap previous lesson 10 min - Thumb grip 20 min - Zwerchhaw 15 min - Zwerchhaw as a counter-attack 15 min - Zwerchhaw to four openings 5 min - Feedback Chapters 0:00 Intro 0:15 Disclaimer 1:26 Thumb grip 3:16 Zwerchhaw 8:56 Zwerchhaw as a ...
How to Fight with a Longsword 08 - Absetzen and Überlaufen
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 2 lety
In this episode we'll learn two new Hautpstucke. First is Absetzen which is basically just a counter attack with a thrust. Then we take a quick look at Überlaufen which is the theory of reach. Lesson plan 10 min - Warm up 15 min - Recap previous lesson 20 min - Absetzen against thrust 20 min - Absetzen against cut 20 min - Überlaufen 5 min - Feedback Chapters 0:00 Intro 0:15 Disclaimer 1:00 Abs...
How to Fight with a Longsword 07 - Durchwechseln
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 2 lety
In this episode of the longsword basic course series we will be taking a look at a new guard and a new Hauptstucke. The new guard position is the Langort and the Hauptstucke the Durchwechseln. Lesson plan 10 min - Warm up 15 min - Recap previous lesson 10 min - Theory and basic exercise 10 min - Durchwechseln in langort 10 min - Durchwechseln in ochs 10 min - Durchwechseln during a thrust 10 mi...
Helsinki Longsword Open 2022 - Cutting Competition Finals
zhlédnutí 975Před 2 lety
This is the final round for the cutting competition at Helsinki Longsword Open 2022. The competition was held in Helsinki 20.-21.5.2022. The competitors didn't know the patterns for the finals before they came to cut. The brief for each target was read just before the finalist was tasked to perform it. The sword chosen for the finals was the Albion Ringeck. It is a narrow and thick bladed type ...
How to Fight with a Longsword 06 - Winden
zhlédnutí 4,1KPřed 2 lety
How to Fight with a Longsword 06 - Winden
How to Fight with a Longsword 05 - Zucken
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 2 lety
How to Fight with a Longsword 05 - Zucken
How to Fight with a Longsword 04 - Parry Riposte and Four Openings
zhlédnutí 4,1KPřed 2 lety
How to Fight with a Longsword 04 - Parry Riposte and Four Openings
How to Fight with a Longsword 03 - Unterhaw and Thrusting
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed 2 lety
How to Fight with a Longsword 03 - Unterhaw and Thrusting
How to Fight with a Longsword 02 - Footwork and Nachreisen
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 2 lety
How to Fight with a Longsword 02 - Footwork and Nachreisen
How to Fight with a Longsword 01 - Oberhaw and Basic Parry
zhlédnutí 3,4KPřed 2 lety
How to Fight with a Longsword 01 - Oberhaw and Basic Parry
How to Fight with a Longsword 00 - Intro
zhlédnutí 2,1KPřed 2 lety
How to Fight with a Longsword 00 - Intro
HEMA Bookshelf Kunst des Messerfechtens Facsimile Review
zhlédnutí 167Před 2 lety
HEMA Bookshelf Kunst des Messerfechtens Facsimile Review
How to Cut with a Longsword 14 - Short Edge Descending Cuts
zhlédnutí 143Před 2 lety
How to Cut with a Longsword 14 - Short Edge Descending Cuts
How to Cut with a Longsword 13 - Short Edge Ascending Cuts
zhlédnutí 127Před 2 lety
How to Cut with a Longsword 13 - Short Edge Ascending Cuts
How to Cut with a Longsword 12 - Zwerchhaw
zhlédnutí 232Před 2 lety
How to Cut with a Longsword 12 - Zwerchhaw
How to Cut with a Longsword 11 - Krumphaw
zhlédnutí 320Před 2 lety
How to Cut with a Longsword 11 - Krumphaw
How to Cut with a Longsword 10 - Schielhaw
zhlédnutí 623Před 2 lety
How to Cut with a Longsword 10 - Schielhaw
This is great info and I needed it. I just got a couple spring steel swords and bought some tatami in the US at Kult of athena. I have been looking for a cheaper source though for the US.
are you from finnland? i just met a finish guy and he had the same accent great review- love that sword my most favourite
Yup, I’m from Finland :D
Where did you bought the tatami?
The links are in the video description. Nine circles links still go directly to the tatami. Swords and more link leads to a removed item page but if you just search for "tatami omote hohe" in the store you'll find the correct tatami.
Would you agree with a statement that oberhaw riposte from a hanging parry is a shnappen or not?
I would not call it schnappen in the way hanging parry oberhaw riposte is usually done. That is, with a larger motion to the opposite side. My interpretation of a schnappen is that you close the line while cutting around your opponent’s sword from a bind. To fulfill that requirement the hanging parry riposte should be done so that your hands and sword stay in close proximity to your opponent’s sword and you are able to close the line or even stay in contact with the sword. As such you could do a schnappen from a hanging parry but the common way of doing a hanging parry riposte is not a schnappen in my opinion.
I would not call it schnappen in the way hanging parry oberhaw riposte is usually done. That is, with a larger motion to the opposite side. My interpretation of a schnappen is that you close the line while cutting around your opponent’s sword from a bind. To fulfill that requirement the hanging parry riposte should be done so that your hands and sword stay in close proximity to your opponent’s sword and you are able to close the line or even stay in contact with the sword. As such you could do a schnappen from a hanging parry but the common way of doing a hanging parry riposte is not a schnappen in my opinion.
thank you so much, I was tempted by this after seeing Matt Easton recommendation which for the price had me excited,, but I thought to myself I would rather a review from someone who has actually held the sword in their hands and swung it with purpose, it's been sold out for a good 6 months and has only just returned to stock, I was looking to use it for test cutting so your review is most welcome
Man… very very good review and thanksssss…. I’m writing from Italy and after a very long time now I have at home her sister… the Albion Principe my personal dream… I’m so happy for this… it is a war cutting machine and very balanced.. thank you again for your information and compliment for your job here and for your channel. See you soon in another video I hope😂👊🏻🗡️
I came for the longsword, I stayed for the rubber ducky
If it’s the combat version it is not made for sharpening. It’s a HEMA sword for sport combat, silly!
I'm really torn between the Regent and the Ringeck.
Thank you very much!
Would a review of the Albion Warwick be out of the question?
@charlesmartinez8125 Sadly I don’t own a Warwick nor do I know anyone who does.
Thanks for the video/review🗡
Feels funny how i have propably cut with this particular sword in 2019 & scratched the tip by cutting through a tatami & overswinging to the concrete floor 😅
The Ringeck warsword is my favourite sword
I don't usually comment youtube videos. But I wanted to take the chance to thank you for the invaluable service you're doing for starting and aspiring instructors.
Im buying this sword right now! Thank you for the review my friend 💯 Edit... They are all sold out.
Sorry, but I disagree with the parry riposte concept as a teaching method, it has its roots in classical fencing not in historical fencing. The Longsword is a single time weapon and instead of thinking of a parry riposte, you need to be thinking about a parry that will seize the vor and allow one to take the initiative. The parry riposte has its origins in 18th century sword fighting that involves faster weapons that also require the fighters to buy into the concept of right of way. I’m not saying that riposting after a parry is a bad thing, but the riposte has to be earned by creating a threat so that the attacker will be forced to end their assault. I would recommend to use the concept of Ansetzen where you attempt a single time parry and attack, and if it fails are at least in a position to threaten a thrust which would count as your riposte.
Hello, did they fit perfectly in your hands? Could you share your hand and finger measurements? Thinking about buying here, but I'm from Brazil, so I can't go wrong with the size heh
@PedroPanetto I'm very much at the limits of the size for the gloves. Sadly at the opposite ends of the scale for different measurements. The width of my palm is 95mm which is the maximum width allowed for a fit. The total length of my hand (from wrist to tip of the middle finger) is around 192-193mm, the minimum allowed is 191. Naturally there is some play with the measurements. Because of this the fit is not perfect but good enough. The only noticeable issue I ran into was having to pull the glove on every few exchanges.
@@LIERHEMA Thank you very much for your reply! I bought a pair, let's see what happens. Greetings,
2 years wait time
This is very exciting! Assuming they are priced similarly to other Kvetun offerings, these should make a big splash when they come out. It will be nice to have a relatively affordable option to compete with the Alexandrias and Atrims you see at cutting comps
Excellent Content, Thank you
these videos and all of the videos on this channel are just amazing, thank you for these well put together and educated videos!
What is the best handling sword at this length? Price is not a problem 😊 I want the best?
@Simon Stepsys That is a very difficult question to answer. The very tldr; answer is "It depends", but don't worry I'll give some opinions a bit later. Firstly what is considered "this length"? Should the measurements be exact or is there some leeway? Should the total length be the same or is the blade length important but the handle length not so much. Also the definition of "best handling" is very subjective and depends on the application. Are you ready to sacrifice some cutting performance for nimbleness or the other way around or should it have good balance of both. In that case what is "good balance" becomes the issues. Should it be good for thrusting or is that of no concern? Here are some some swords from the top of my head. I also have videos on all of these on the channel. And please do note that my experience with swords is very heavily Albion centric so there is a wide array of swords I have not handled. Albion Alexandria is a bit shorter in general. It handles very well but is definitely rather cutting centric, meaning it has more presence in the blade thus losing some nimbleness in transitions and such. Albion Brescia Spadona is a bit longer in general but the blade is a bit shorter. It is more of an all arounder and handles very well. Much more nimble than Alexandria. The Kvetun Longsword Prototype with a short handle and long blade is a bit longer in general, evenly from hilt and blade (this is the one I really like in the preview video). It is very nimble and cuts extremely well but the blade is less rigid so it loses to previous swords in thrusting capacity. It is also not yet available For cutting performance from those three I would pick Alexandria or Kvetun depending on your preferences. I personally like the Kvetun one better as it handles better in my opinion and has a bit longer blade. I know people who would rather have the Alexandria. Brescia is definitely the best when it comes to thrusting. If you want a sword more capable in the thrust or in general an all arounder go with that. Again some people would pick it for cutting over the previous two. I personally like both Brescia and Kvetun more for cutting purposes than the Alexandria. Though if I need to cut very thick targets etc I would pick Alexandria as it is simply better for that in my opinion. As said, it depends. If you can try swords out you can find what kind of handling you like and then start from there. Try to specify what the application for the sword will be and/or what kind of handling characteristics you like. Do you want the blade to feel light or have a lot of presence. Do you want it to feel light and nimble in the hand, especially during transitions, or do you want it to feel like it wants to just cut anything on its way. Do you want a sword which is excellent when winding and binding and thrusting and so on. And as said, there are so many good swords on the market that my experience is very limited.
@@LIERHEMA thank you for your helpful and very detailed reply! I really appreciate it, ok so I’m thinking I want a good well balanced and comfortable sword 🗡️ good for waving 👋 around and practicing the art, if that makes sense? I also want high quality, sharp blade for cutting etc, so comfort, balance and cutting in that order… I have a sword 🗡️ (Marshall sword) my first sword low price just £140 it’s quite heavy but good to look at and to wield but it’s handle is quite small and tiring after short use, also because of short handle it catches the side of your hand and cuts into your hand side! Now my next sword 🗡️ I want to be sure of top grade high quality, desirable and I don’t mind paying the money for it… in other words I want quality over quantity. I did like your bastard sword video and I still might buy this as well as a top grade sword as I do like the look of the bastard! Haha 😆
@Simon Stepsys In that case I would not pick Alexandria. It is not that good for practice as it has a very quiet sword wind. The handle is also short and I find it uncomfortable, especially in a thumb grip. In prolonged use with the Alexandria I run in to the sore side of the off hand issue you described. Brescia Spadona is pretty good for this but the pommel can be a bit of an issue. I've scratched my forearms with it quite a few times. For training the sword wind is nice but not great. The Kvetun, when it becomes available, is the most comfortable in hand from these. It also has a pretty nice sword wind. The weakness as mentioned is that in thrusting and cutting it is very heavily leaning to cutting. Albion Earl is also a very nice sword for general practice. It handles nicely, a bit more on the strong blade presence side. It also happens to have a pommel which tends to be a bit prickly. I've also cut my forearms with that multiple times. Between Brescia and Earl I prefer Brescia in general but Earl is better for practice. It has louder and easier to read sword wind and it is not as good of a cutter as Brescia is. From training perspective Brescia is so good that it tends to hide your mistakes. Earl is really good for cutting practice as it isn't too hard to cut with but it also doesn't give you too much slack. Brescia is also double the price of Earl and you don't get double the value from purely functional point of view. I didn't mind paying the museum line premium because I really like the original but from purely usability and quality stand point it makes no sense. If you really want, and I wouldn't, you can file the points of the Brescia's pommel in just a mil or two and gone are the pricking issues. If you would do that to an over $2k sword is another thing. As said those are the swords I have personal experience with and I think would suit your needs. If nothing Brescia and Earl should be useful for comparisons sake. Other people who know those swords might now something similar which possibly fits your needs better. And might even be more readily available. Albion swords are great but the queue is quite long.
@@LIERHEMA thank you 🙏 how long the wait for a Albion sword? I like the earl I watched your video and looks super cool 👌 the earl looks good value compared to the double price of the Brescia?
@@LIERHEMA which makes the best wind noise? You can’t beat a good LOUD sword wind noise!
Very nice video.Very nice swords, especially the short grip one.I am looking forward for these, hoping that their price will be affordable since we live in difficult times,from a financial perspective.Cheers from Greece...
I subscribed recently. Would you consider Albion swords as good investments, will they hold or appreciate in value? I have recently ordered a Principe. Do you have suggestions for a sword for investment?
Albions tend to hold their value rather well. Especially as the order queue is rather long you could possibly get your money back on an albion which is in good condition. I wouldn’t really concider any sword an investment. Rather unlikely to get more than you paid for, especially concidering inflation etc. I’d be surprised if any sword, outside some completely random cases, would beat a basic index fund. Naturally you can make a profit in some rare cases when it comes to out of production models or such.
@@LIERHEMA Thank you for your reply. I hold a common interest as you in long swords and appreciate your content. I think I'll stick with Albion. I'll look into Mateusz Sulowski also.
I just ordered the Principe.
Would they accommodate you if you wanted to change the cross guard to a principe cross guard?
I don’t know. However I’ve never heard of factory customized Albions (outside of grip color) so my guess would be no. Send them an email and they’ll tell if it is possible.
Just to check: Was all the cutting at the end done with the one you called a "suppercutter"? They are so similar in appearance that they are hard to keep track of 😀
Yup, all was done with that one. I didn't have the mats to cut with all of them so I just went with the best one and had some fun :D
Thank you! And glad to have you back.
Wow, very nice!!
Even I can't believe that we didn't payed you for that! ;)
:D But honestly knowing your feders/blunts I wasn't surprised that the swords were good. I was surprised how ridiculously good cutter the short gripped one was though.
If my memory serves my first cut with any of the three swords was with that specific one and my reaction was a mix of disbelief and giggling like a child. You guys might have it on camera :D
Can't make up my mind on either the Crecy or the Agincourt .
@Jason Ashley Both are great swords. I have cut with the Agincourt a bunch and even though it is far from a great cutting sword it is still surprisingly good. I have only briefly handled Crecy and it feels really nice but I haven't cut with one. From what I've heard from people it is a good cutting sword. In the end it is up to what you want from the sword. If you want the better cutter get the Crecy. If not you can't go wrong regardless of which one you pick.
Thank you so much! I've been fencing longsword for 10 years and still learned a lot.
this sword and the Principe are basically lightsabers when it comes to cutting.
awesome video!
hey there! I love this deep dive format, very interesting. What sources did you base yourself on? This looks entirely differrent from all the other krumphau I have seen around. I don't see the step to the side, nor the characteristic windshield wiper movement.
@Alessandro Inguscio Thank you! I use Danzig, Ringeck and Döbringer. I also have a basic course style fencing lesson on Krump here czcams.com/video/nSr-aAdUhTo/video.html If I want to attack with the Krump I use the extended point version seen here as it has better reach and is stronger from body mechanics viewpoint. This allows you to make a rather powerful cut. For a parry riposte situation in which the Krump is used as the parry I tend to use a more windshield wiper style movement. This is simply as it covers more are in front of me thus making the parry easier. I also tend to riposte from that by bringing the point back and then around and having the point pointing more to the side to begin with makes that easier.
Huh. I have an Earl and I've never thought the ridge interfered with a thumb grip. If anything it gives more purchase to not slide around. Just my opinion though everyone's hands are a bit different.
Thanks for the video! One small tip I think if you stand instead of sit that will make you appear more solid psychologically. In fencing tutorial videos you probably don't want yourself to hide away from the environment as you meant to present yourself as a fighter. Good content tho!
How are the ProGauntlets working out for you? Still happy with them?
Yup, working fine. Had to ship them for fixing and they have been working great since then. Haven’t had enough hours in for a review yet as I took the summer off from fencing but looking good so far.
Continuing to binge watch your series. Great course. And Meyer square exercise I like so much. Doing it a lot with different footwork.
Thank you for the video series. Explanations are as full as it should be and accompanied video fragments leave minimal space for errors.
Thanks for the series. Really like your approach so far. Mechanics are shown well and explained thoroughly. I noticed that in my club basic parries are tought to be executed much lower. Pommel nearly touches the hip. Can you comment on it please. Another thing is that I noticed is thst by slightly turning hips and torso in direction of the psrry, it is easier to receive heavy blows and your body is being "readied" for the next move spring like. With obvious cost of couple milliseconds.
@TheNadOby Thank you! For the parry height. You want to catch the attack on the strong of your sword (the half of the blade closer to the cross). This is simply basic mechanics. If you parry with the weak you have to fight a larger lever, thus making it more difficult to stop the attack. Thus if your opponent cuts to your head you want to have your hands high and if they cut at your waist you want to have your hands low. When it comes to rotating your torso you want to have your center (middle of your chest) pointing towards the attack for the strongest parry. You also want to have your arms extended to almost straight and have your hands centered (in front of your chest). This gives you the strongest possible parry. This is naturally not always necessary and parrying closer to your body definitely has its advantages.
@@LIERHEMA Thanks, your analysis is in accord with what I was thinking about this. Will have something to discuss at training.
Mines shipping to me right now!
I found this video when looking for a way to deal with fighters who sit in Alber a lot. It led me to your excellent series, which I am now going through in its entirety. But I still have questions. Regarding the Schielhau vs Alber, what happens if the Coach makes a retreating step with a false edge cut upwards to the Trainee’s hands? That seems to be a common response from Alber. Can the crossguard be oriented in such a way as to protect the Trainee’s hands? Alternately, if the Coach uses a Streichen from Alber, how does the low Schielhau fair? Will it get displaced like an Oberhau might? Finally, students at my club usually do Alber with the point and hands a little to their left side, as though they had just cut downward with an Oberhau. If the Coach was in such a position, rather than a central Alber as shown in the video, how would the Trainee’s Schielhau need to be different? Thanks for your effort on this video series!
@ebflagg Thank you and a good question. Let's try to break this down and see if there is something we can do. First the step back and cut to the hands case. For this there are two things which are important. Distance and intent. If your opponent is in Alber they have only one option when it comes to attacking. They need to bring their hands and the sword up. Let's only concentrate on the case in which this is done roughly in front of them. If they decide to bring the sword up at their side or behind them there is no threat to us and we can ignore the sword. In the case where the sword is brought up roughly between you and your opponent you want to get your sword down and block your opponents sword and arms. If they can't bring the sword up it will reduce the things they can do. I would see this as cutting a Schielhaw rather low so that you have your point pointing at their lower stomach/pelvis area. I would recommend lower stomach in training as it is safer. This will keep you opponent's hands and sword low enough that their targets are limited to your hands and thrusting very low, basically yor thighs. If you can get your sword this low it is very difficult for your opponent to land any meaningful cut to your hands. Especially if you have the point of your sword thrust to their lower stomach. The point tends to stay there and prevent your opponent from rising their arms (especially true with a sharp sword). When you cut a Schielhaw you want to have the sword more or less in line with your non-dominant shoulder and step to your dominant side. The end result would be you controlling the center line and leaving only your hands as a target. You want to make this cut with proper intent. No hesitation and use a strong cut. Generally this will cause the opponent to go for a parry instead of trying to trade. Just having intent won't work if your opponent thinks they can safely get out of distance and hit your hands. From this we get to distance. If your opponent is in Alber and you are in Vom Tag prepared to cut a Schielhaw you can get very close. If your opponent decides to start attacking when you are closing in you can just immediately cut the Schielhaw at their wrists and then continue with a thrust by stepping forwards. I have found this to be rather effective in practice. When you get close enough so that you think that your opponent can't backstep out of distance go for the Schielhaw with proper intention. Remember that generally it is slower to step backwards than it is forwards and you can generally also step much further forwards. If at this point you opponent decides to be suicidal and trade anyways there is not much you can do but hope. In my experience Schielhaw makes it less likely to get hit to the hands than if I'd use an Oberhaw but I have not found a sure-fire way to not get hit if your opponent ignores protecting themselves. In my opinion you need to have the cross pointing more or less down anyways for the cut to be effective and trying to re-orient it some other direction doesn't really help. From this we get to knowing that your opponent will try to cut at your hands regardless of whether they get hit or not. If you know this is the case feint with the Schielhaw and when your opponent goes for the hands cut turn the attack to a parry and then riposte. If you have the reflexes for it this will also work in case you notice the cut coming after already starting your Schielhaw with the intention of landing the attack. This has the negative that if you fail the parry you get hit and your opponent doesn't but that is the game you need to play with suicidal opponents. Feint to trigger the attack, parry it and riposte. If your opponent stands in Alber so that their point is more to your dominant side you are pretty much out of luck with the Schielhaw. In this case your opponent's sword would end up on the inside in any case so I would not suggest using the Schielhaw. You can do a Schielhaw like Krumphaw but I would rather use a thrust which closes the line. Note: I have very little experience of using Schielhaw against Streichen (or getting Streichen used against me in general). When it comes to Streichen if it is done from your dominant side (your opponent's non-dominant side in case you are both same handed) both Oberhaw and Schielhaw work equally badly. When it comes to Streichen from your non-dominant side they work differently and I wouldn't call one better than the other. Schielhaw has a bit higher chance of getting cut to the hands if the Streichen is more horizontal and low. If the Streichen is high or more vertical there is a good chance that it will miss the sword as Schielhaw goes rather directly very low. Then it is up to distance if you get hit or not. Oberhaw tends to get caught up in the Streichen pretty consistently and it is up to the structure of the cuts for what happens.
Forgive me if you have mentioned it in other videos but I have not yet managed to view them all. What are your views on thumbing the blade in the hengen?
@MortenStampe Tldr; It has its pros and cons but it definitely has uses. Now the longer answer. In this context I will take "thumbing the blade" to mean the following. Your forearms are on the side of a flat of the grip instead of on the side of an edge. You might have your thumb on the flat of the blade or not. A common example would be being in an upper hengen with the flats pointing up and down and having your arms under the sword with your thumb on the blade. A second common example would be standing in a non-dominant side Pflugh so that the long edge is pointing up and your forearms are on the inside side of the blade. To get the non-dominant side Pflugh with the long edge up case out of the way this is simply how I interpret the Danzig description of non-dominant side Pflugh. As such I would say that thumbing the blade in a hengen is manuscript correct. I would say that it is also correct to deem the end position of a Zwerchhaw to be a hengen while thumbing the blade. Then to the general pros and cons. In my experience I tend to get hit to the hands more if I thumb the blade. I also find it more difficult to make a strong parry in a hengen when holding the sword like this. In the non-dominant side Pflugh case I find it much more easy to wind from lower to upper hengen on that side if I am thumbing the blade. I also personally think that this is why the Pflugh is described this way in Danzig. Same goes for side to side winding in the upper hengen if I am thumbing the blade. As a feder specific thing a thrust which is done with the flats pointing up and down is more likely to make the blade bend. This is as there is usually force directed upwards (and less often downwards) just because how arms tend to move in a thrust. This tends to make the thrust feel less nasty on the receiving end as some of the energy is absorbed by the bending blade. Then as a difference which is not really a pro or a con is that thumbing the blade makes some techniques easier and some more difficult. For example if I'm in the dominant side upper hengen and I'm thumbing the blade making a Schielhaw is easier but cutting a dominant side Unterhaw is more difficult. The same goes for thrusts in opposition, some of them are easier one way some the other. So as a conclusion I find it very useful in some situations and I think you should know how to do it. You should also know what are the trade offs and based on that when to use it and when not. Based on the fact that fencers prefer different ways of doing this and can argue both ways I would say that this is to rather large extend personal preference. Try out both ways and see what works and when.
@@LIERHEMA Thank you for your excellent answer. I have been thumbing mostly but will try the variations you show. I think you are correct and have noticed I automatically do not thumb when a strong parry is needed. I will go and think about it 👍.
Thank you
Very nice conclusion to the series. Thank you for all the lessons!
Thank you for the video! I have a question though... how did you arrive at the interpretation of the Ochs breaking krumphau with the steps you stated of core rotation to non-dom, point high and to non-dom, then step and cut? All other interpretations I've seen of this essentially start with a standard oberhau which then crosses although the wide step offline is a commonality which makes sense to avoid a counter thrust. Not saying you're wrong, but it is a unique interpretation that I haven't seen before.
@John A good question! My interpretation also started from what you describe. The issue with that is that you only generate power from the rotation around your wrists when using that technique. That is not that strong of a cut especially as the rotation is around your wrists and not shoulders. Another issue is that, at least for me, a cut like this makes it very difficult to maintain edge alignment. Let's start with the power generation issue. The cut like you explained has, in my opinion, enough force if you only hit the fingers. They are a rather fragile target and easy enough to cut through. However I use the cut with other targets such as the forearms, elbows and the head. You might also unintentionally hit another target as your opponent is moving and trying to not get hit. In my experience a stronger cut also leaves me in a more beneficial bind in case I get parried. Other targets require much more force to case significant enough damage to guarantee an effect. That is to say I want to cause enough damage that even in the worst case it would be enough. That being cutting completely through a forearm through a padded jacket for example. Naturally I have not cut someone's forearm with a sharp sword but I have cut a range of fabrics and I have a generic idea how difficult meat and bone is to cut through. That being dead bone but at least I think I should be in the correct ball park with this. Even if I'm wildly of with my guess at least my version is a more powerful cut and thus it has more of a chance to cause significant damage. For those who are going to argue that not every cut needs to decapitate someone I would say that you can always reduce the power from the maximum. I still use this kind of a lighter krump every now and then. However it is not possible to magically hit harder than you can so my base line for training a technique is for maximum effectiveness for what I think I need the technique for. That is why I needed to increase the power generation for the cut so I could still confidently use it for what I think the cut can be used for. The edge alignment issue is rather simple. At least for me it is extremely difficult to maintain edge alignment if my wrists are rotating. This is even after a lot of practice. As such I need to move the rotation somewhere else. As I need to do this for power generation purposes anyways the edge alignment issue takes care of itself. So when I started to fix this I knew that I needed to move the rotation to my shoulders and my core to generate more power and to make maintaining edge alignment easier. From there I simply started from the end position and worked my way back to the starting position. As I knew both this was not too difficult. As the cutting portion of the cut needed to have a straight trajectory that was my first step. With this I ended up with my hands too far to my non-dominant side so I had to figure out the steps to getting to there from the starting position. The result is what you see in the video. You could also kinda do the same thing without rotating from the core and simply by bringing your arms to your non-dominant side. However this goes against the very important "keep your hands centered" basic principle of effective body mechanics. As such I think that the rotation towards the non-dominant side is necessary for maximum effectiveness. In my opinion this way of cutting a krump allows for a more powerful, and thus more widely usable, technique while still matching the sources. If you need you can also always reduce the core rotation to basically none and get back to the version you describe. As already mentioned this can be useful in many situations such as feinting or making a very accurate cut at the fingers. However now you also can generate more power when you need to or have the time to do so. As a note when you get to a very fluent movement pattern with my version it is very fast. In the end you are blending the core rotations and extending your arms for the cut so much that in the end you have rotated to your non-dominant side by the time your arms are extended. From the you simply cut down. This does require quite a lot of core control though. It is only marginally slower than the common version but it allows for a lot more power generation. The trajectory is also slightly different. When actually fighting the torso rotation is rather difficult to spot but it definitely can be. As such it is not the best choice for making an oberhaw feint to a krump to the hands. For more details please refer to my cutting series. You can find the krump video here: czcams.com/video/dTvBJ5oztlk/video.html Here is a schiel video which explains my way of constructing interpretations for complex techniques: czcams.com/video/_nJaZe3yfGE/video.html
@@LIERHEMA cool beans, thank you for your reply! The core engagement is good, we know that's where a lot of the power comes from and not the arms. I like that this interpretation puts that into practice rather than just depending on the wrists to power. The speed was a concern of mine which you addressed. Perhaps it's just a matter of retraining those muscles to build up the fluid motion. When I was working this it felt clunky and disjointed, but that's pretty standard until you do it a couple hundred times. I'm working lichtenauer basics with some newbies in my club and I think I'll take the approach you're working here. Figure they learn this powered version first, they can always do the marginally quicker but less powered version in a high pressure situation, but at least we train the muscle memory from the onset and no retraining required later. Thanks for this series and the discussion!
When you are sparring, you always have implicit rules; hit quality, afterblow timing, agreed upon intensity level, and intangibles that are encouraged or frowned upon in your specific club are all rules. If you always fence the same way, your fencing is not free from the influence of any ruleset, rather you are optimizing your fencing around your implicit ruleset. This is not a bad thing, but it is something that I feel needs to be acknowledged in order to better understand fencing. A solution to the problem is to actively practice a variety of rulesets to see how well the fencing tools you've acquired fit into each specific fencing game.
Thank you