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Good video, thanks

Hi, this is the best review of this machine I haver watched! I have this amazing machine and I like it for a lot of nice features, BUT what really grinds my gear is the module blocking system: the slide is too lose and the module moves vertically (I mean not up/down, but the perpendicularity of the module itself) affecting the focus of the laser. Even if you tight very hard the blocking screw, it will move during your works, missfocusing and affecting the cut line mode. That was really tricking for me to understand the reason of so much different results in works with exactly the same settings for cut and fill. Anyway I still love this machine, I would only like to have much power, like 20w. Is it possible to mount a different module? If so, which one would you suggest?

Infinite huh 😂

I just bought a unit that is from a different brand but looks exactly like the one in this video (prob assembled by the same factory) Perfect!

There are a lot of things you could have done. You could have used a hose with a larger diameter and you could have made the hose shorter. You could have also designed the attachement of the hose to the unit differently. After all most air will always take the path of least resistence. So the reason why a lot of the air didn't want to go through your hose was that it offered too much resistance. So the unit prefered to take air from other sources, which is probably why you had your problems. The less resistance in your hose the more air will come through the hose and the less air will take the other, undesirable paths.

Arizona it gets 117°. I don’t think 2 hose is sufficient. I don’t think the condenser coils will get cool enough so it’s better for me to just have a single hose and deal with a little bit of the negative pressure.

In my opinion the sealing on both ends prevent the grease to come in. Is there a reason why you don’t lubricate when it’s open?

Wow! Have you tried this at actual cold weather? Like 5°C?

Cut down on the long winded review. Man you could speak on endlessly lol

Third hose seems the obvious way after seeing this video, but why don't you just lift the unit up? I'm trying to mount a shelf near the ceiling and install my portable ac there as I have also ax exhaust hole in the house wall; I think this way I can shorten the exhaust hose and also make the unit cool the hot air near the ceiling and 'shoot' it at the floor. I think I hope I'll get some improvements this way over a standard floor installation.

Almost all of the single hose airco units cool their plc's with room air that exits via the exhaust air to the outside. This because it makes the single hose airco a little bit more efficient (but obviously for dual hose systems it greatly reduces efficiency. This is by far the greatest leak in the system and can only be fixed by modding the casing and airflow to the plc.

If you check the temperature of the room at 1ft height intervals you may find the hottest air is not as high up as you imagine.

yeah so I have a very similar AC to this (comfee, which I think is just midea lite?) After the dual hose mod I easily get to 21°C in my room on a 32°C weather day Before that it struggled to keep 24 and it was also warm in some areas of the room. Now it's cool throughout. In fact, if I set it to 22°C it just turns off for long intervals so I save a ton of energy Everyone that has one of these should know about these mods, it REALLY helps

Bought this printer and EVERY VITAL screw needed tightening. After 2 full days of calibration i'm finally getting good prints. Those who say it worked great out of the box were lucky

Is it normal for these units to feel like a heater is on instead of a ac unit

How did you come up with a 60% efficiency increase? Before insulating, you cooled down by 2°C per 30 minutes. After insulating, you cooled down by 5°C per 30 minutes. Meaning, the unit becomes 2.5 times as efficient at the end, that's an increase of 150%. (5°C/2°C=2.5) (2°C + 2°C * 150% = 2°C + 3°C = 5°C)

I'm thinking you WERE overextruding. This happens when the extruder has backslippage issues, that exacerbate themselves at higher extrusion rates. When you calibrate extrusion, you run much higher feed speed than your print consumes, you consume 10cm within a few seconds, while in a real print, a minute may pass. Normally you're supposed to remove the nozzle or hotend to calibrate extrusion flow to eliminate back slippage. Stock extruder often has issues. Weak spring with way too little preload, which also relaxes with time and loses preload. Extrusion gear wear. Quality of extrusion gear machining. I think it should be a steel piece with fine teeth, but instead most of these printers ship with a piece of brass pinion wire, which clearly isn't made for this use. Of course you can just buy a different extrusion gear for almost nothing and the classic the cheapest extruder you can get, the MK8 one usually in yellow anodised aluminium, has the necessary feature to adjust idler spring preload. If you have a plastic idler lever, well you have the problem that if you add spring preload, you're going to break it. One can maybe print one in PETG or HIPS and maybe keep an extra around - the lever i printed in PLA with preload adjustment exploded after a year. Or just buy an aluminium extruder, since it's so dirt cheap :D Or buy something actually good like this fake Titan, that works too i guess :D There is of course a lot more finesse to extruder-hotend combo but the other design issues tend to cause more situational drawbacks.

Nice video. However, I've seen other videos showing that some AC units ARE insulated while being single hose. It's just device dependent, but for to remember!

Somehow I just bought this exact unit before looking for a video on 2 hose conversion. 😊😂 So this is perfect! Only difference is I bought the 9000 btu one.

Why would they manufacture more popular one hose models when they could just make them two hose for pretty much the same price while being vastly more energy efficient? Well, isn't that a little bit of a mystery... considering the whole industry is gung ho about the climate and environment.... It's almost like they would RATHER be inefficient.... I really would LOVE to understand

Why don't they sell them like this in the first place

Little confused, did I miss the part where the second hose is actually attached? Or is that in another video? So far I just saw the discussion about what you could do, but not how to do it.

Very useful thank you very much friend!

Just finished this upgrade on my old Whynter ARC-10B, and the difference is astounding. It is 120% worth it to pull the covers off the unit and tape over the open space, now this little AC actually performs worth a heck and gets my living room cold! I had been taping cardboard boxes with dryer hose over the intake for years, resulting in a poor man's "dual-hose" setup, but now the hot and cold sides are fully isolated and the performance is just wild. I used 6" insulated ducts (for hydroponics) for intake and exhaust, there is *very* minimal heat leakage from the exhaust hose, and the AC even runs a bit quieter too. I paid ~$250 for this AC in 2014 and it now runs better than ever! Thank you for this video.

I would suggest to 3d print a rectangular adapter to enclose back and side and shrink to a round tube ending in the hose for inlet of exterior air. maybe less restriction ?

SPEAKERS SOUND AMAZING!!! 💯🔥 THE BEST 20WAT SPEAKERS. 💯🔥

Always wondered if u leave the door open with a single hose will it not have neg air pressure cus it can pull from the rest of the house and if U have a dual hose and it bad out say Smokey air fan the smoke leak out once it brings the air inside and leak into the house

Where can I find the adapter that you 3D printed???

I haven't seen the unit yet but all of these I've dealt with have two exhaust ports. One usually has a cap. The two are for convenience of where your window is located left or right of the unit. Now looking at your unit where you put an adapter that shouldn't be an exhaust port. Warm air should only exit from the designed exhaust port. The one you connected to is an intake you don't want that going out doors as you'll be sucking in hot air. I may have misunderstood your explanation at the beginning. Now you're talking about two hoses. Those are both exhaust ports. At least in the dozen or more I've used. An easy explanation is place your hand in front of every vent on your unit. If you feel warm air exiting the vent then it should be ported to exit the area you're trying to to cool. If you feel no warm air at any vent then it's an intake. If you feel cold air coming out of a vent it's obviously a cold air vent

hi sir, would you mind to share the driver of the motherboard please, thank you😊

I made a similar conversion for my mohorhome however my problem is, due to the lack of space, I had to install the original exhaust hose and the new hose to take the air from outside very close together. Do you think that might be a problem? This would mean the condenser is probably going to take some hot air previously exhausted, mixed with the exterior air

But aahh

Will the dehumidifier mode still work with this conversion?

Would it be worth while putting a fan in the funnel shaped inlet from outside and maybe a fan assisting exhaust?or would it tax the system too much

Tried it without insulating the inside. I’m getting better performance out of my portable AC.

Um the bottom is likely the dehumidifier and the top is where it takes air in?

Can u please tell me how to download chipset drivers of h61 mini itx motherboard?

I did this on my Hisense 12000btu and it turned out great, turning on and off like an air conditioner should, and saving energy.

pls share the dimensions of your mod :)

pls share the dimensions of your mod :)

where is the building plan ??

Have you got the stl for the adaptor plate you made?

Great video Dirk! I am considering building a small PC with this board also. I have a pair of old G.SKILL Ripjaws (F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL) - any idea if those will work with this board properly? I saw your recent comment saying that you got it working with a set of 'PC3-12800 PC3-12800U 1.5V CL11 240 Pin 2RX8 Dual Rank Non-ECC Unbuffered' - but I don't know how to figure out which RAM will work, and which won't.

Thank you for the review Dirk.

Are the fragile without the frame?

Hello. Perfect job ! You seem to be someone perfectionist and pugnacious (as a quality of course). You helped me a lot in my research. Did you insulated the 2 interior parts (hot // cold) of this unit with thin insulation sheet + thermal silicone sealant as well, to prevent any air leaks? Finally, do you think it would be interesting to switch to 2 insulated exhaust ducts for air exchange with the outside? (I am thinking of thermal exchanges but also noise attenuation). Sorry for my bad english :)

I need BIOS Back Up from SZMS B75-MS please 🥹 is broken. I cant find it

This would be great, thanks for your answer

Can anybody tell me I would Plug in the Solarpanel and the DC Plug parallel, which one does the Allpouwer Station prefers Thank for answers in advance

Awesome music, thanks!