![Dirk Herrendoerfer](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Dirk Herrendoerfer
Germany
Registrace 20. 05. 2012
Your friendly neighbourhood hacker channel.
On my channel I document the wonderful world of Making. I build mini CNC machines, PCB plotters and engravers, 3D printers, and simple electronics. I cut and engrave stuff with tools and lasers, or I just take it to bits.
I explore the depths of new or broken hardware, program Arduino micro-controllers, or just try to solve a simple every-day problem.
Just simple and fun hacker stuff.
On my channel I document the wonderful world of Making. I build mini CNC machines, PCB plotters and engravers, 3D printers, and simple electronics. I cut and engrave stuff with tools and lasers, or I just take it to bits.
I explore the depths of new or broken hardware, program Arduino micro-controllers, or just try to solve a simple every-day problem.
Just simple and fun hacker stuff.
MeanWell PB-600 - Nothing is well, they are just mean - A paperweight programmable battery charger.
Pay extra for features that we deny you ! That's us: We're, well..., MEAN!
Stay clear of this charger, there is seemingly no way of getting the required software to make use of the (very expensive) extra features of this device.
I'm a fan of their power supplies, because they never break - this part however, never worked as intended.
Stay clear of this charger, there is seemingly no way of getting the required software to make use of the (very expensive) extra features of this device.
I'm a fan of their power supplies, because they never break - this part however, never worked as intended.
zhlédnutí: 166
Video
OutIn Nano Technical Review - what a surprise !
zhlédnutí 116Před 3 měsíci
'Battery powered' has come a long way, this thing is a performance monster. I've not seen discharge profiles like this in anything that did not have a fan. And it also makes wonderful coffee ! This is the unit I am reviewing: bit.ly/3WL9YJw Try the Dirk10 cupon code !!! Product description: - Light Weight: Less than 700 g - Fast Heating: About 200 seconds to Heat Up - Rich Crema: Up to 92°C/198...
DAH Balcony Solar Kit Update - Update the 800W Inverter has Arrived!
zhlédnutí 165Před 3 měsíci
The updated inverter has arrived, and as the old one tested out fine too, the set is now officially complete. I was promised a product level inverter to verify, and it finally arrived. It also has the 800W updated output and really checks my last nitpick box. The original review is here: czcams.com/video/hXPFB8KFi-g/video.html Link to the Balcony Kit: www.dahsolarpv.com/the-world-s-first-integr...
FORD Garantie-Service Desaster - Eine Spur der Verwüstung nach Einspritzdüsen-Tausch.
zhlédnutí 198Před 6 měsíci
3 Jahre hat es gedauert um endlich die Einspritzdüsen an meinem Ford zu tauschen. Vorher wurde vom Software-Update bis zum Handauflegen alles gemacht um der Dieselbeimischung im Motoröl beizukommen. Am Ende war Tempo 90 das Beste was auf der Autobahn noch zu erreichen war. Jetzt: Eine Spur der Verwüstung bis ins Herz des Pick-Ups, Zerbrochene Clips und Halterung, zerstört auf dem Weg zu den Düs...
Chinese Diesel Heater CO Monitoring Thermostat - Part 1 - Ideas
zhlédnutí 109Před 7 měsíci
I've been exploring the concept of adding an air quality sensor to a thermostat with radio control to my basement diesel heater setup. It's turning out to work quite well, although I still need to figure out this weird BME680 sensor. More soon ! If you like what you see, and want to help out making this sort of development and production possible in the future, please consider a small donation ...
Geekbes Ultrasonic Cleaner Review - this one saved me
zhlédnutí 317Před 7 měsíci
!!! On sale now, codes are down in the description. !!! This ultrasonic cleaner saved me from having to take cold showers for over a week since no replacement part was available and my shower water mixer battery needed to be recovered. The corresponding coupons are below: Geekbes 2L Ultrasonic Cleaner www.geekbuying.com/go/8Ha8eTXb NNNDEGBUC2L 55€ Geekbes 6.5L Ultrasonic Cleaner www.geekbuying....
New Chinese Diesel Heater for Power Station use - build and review
zhlédnutí 680Před 8 měsíci
This was the cheapest on Amazon the week before Christmas 2023. A KESSER branded 5kW Diesel Heater Kit for just 78 Euros. What a pleasant surprise that turned out to be. So, let's build a test rig, and try it out. If you have not gathered it from the description: This unit will run from a power stations 12V outlet, because it stays within the 10A power limit that most of these units have. It al...
bad6502 update 9 - now as a Raspberry Pi 4 Hat
zhlédnutí 308Před 8 měsíci
The chip shortage is upon us - nothing can fix that for now. So let's build a vintage style computer from parts that are available - and as little of them as possible. Impossible ? OpenSource ? Update 8: - I updated the PCB layout to a Pi 3/4 Hat, but kept the 5V in and power switch Source files are available here: (but the repos may lag behind) github.com/dherrendoerfer/bad6502 Hardware (PCB) ...
DAHSolar Balcony Kit review and benchmark - frameless solar panels for more performance
zhlédnutí 763Před 8 měsíci
DAH Solar sent over their Balcony PV solar kit for review, and its performance does not disappoint. These panels have a frameless design with third-cell packing allowing for up to 16% more usable panel area. Benchmark results: Performance measured (in early November) was comparable or even slightly better than a Full Cell panel with same Wattage, but in slightly overcast/cloudy weather the perf...
Dual Hose Air Conditioner as Heater ? - experiment with unexpected result
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 10 měsíci
A viewer suggested this, and I just could not resist trying it myself. Performance was good, but I doubt it will work when it's really cold. Don't take the results too seriously - If you like what you see, and want to help out making this sort of development and production possible in the future, please consider a small donation at: www.paypal.me/dherrendoerfer This helps a lot in keeping the c...
Creality Ender 3 v3 SE review - The SE stands for Super EASY !!
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 10 měsíci
Geekbuying donated this updated Ender 3 v3 SE for review, and it is a beginners dream 3D printer - from the box to printing in less than 30 minutes ? Here it is ! Quality and performance is good too, technology is at the height of the times, and it comes with everything you need to get started. I'm properly impressed by the amount of technology we get at the 200 Euro price-point. Thank you very...
ALLPOWERS R600 review + benchmark - very solid efficiency
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed 10 měsíci
There's a giveaway going on, check it out: AllpowersDeutschland/posts/pfbid0VdubHeb4JAc3tqHZmpufYmDGGNookcCGfkJW3Z8SwjNQja18yTZz4XiXaxqeE97Ml An in-depth review and benchmark of the ALLPOWERS R600 power station. This power station has very good efficiency over all outputs, the test includes the ALLPOWERS 100W solar panel which is sold separately, but the two make a great combo. Fea...
Response to Richer R123 - Broken ASHATA/SZMZ B75-MS Mainboard
zhlédnutí 2,2KPřed rokem
The Jungle-Site seller requested a detailed video, and you're invited to sit back and enjoy this almost perfect piece of hardware failing live. If you like what you see, and want to help out making this sort of development and production possible in the future, please consider a small donation at: www.paypal.me/dherrendoerfer This helps a lot in keeping the channel and its content free and un-i...
Air Conditioning Mod to Dual Hose - The Perfect Unit - Hold ya hoses, going tripple
zhlédnutí 14KPřed rokem
Air Conditioning Mod to Dual Hose - The Perfect Unit - Hold ya hoses, going tripple
Air Conditioning Mod to Dual Hose - The Perfect Unit
zhlédnutí 9KPřed rokem
Air Conditioning Mod to Dual Hose - The Perfect Unit
Foxtheon iGo300 review + benchmark - 1st to pass the diesel heater test !
zhlédnutí 355Před rokem
Foxtheon iGo300 review benchmark - 1st to pass the diesel heater test !
Solar Adventures Ep 5 - What I wish I knew before going lead acid
zhlédnutí 119Před rokem
Solar Adventures Ep 5 - What I wish I knew before going lead acid
Bluetti EB3A - in depth review of a scam set - it's so HOT it SMOKES
zhlédnutí 2,6KPřed rokem
Bluetti EB3A - in depth review of a scam set - it's so HOT it SMOKES
bad6502 update 8 - Nothing works - bad6502 the retro computer that needs no chips
zhlédnutí 406Před rokem
bad6502 update 8 - Nothing works - bad6502 the retro computer that needs no chips
bad6502 update 7 - Going Bare Metal - bad6502 the retro computer that needs no chips
zhlédnutí 286Před rokem
bad6502 update 7 - Going Bare Metal - bad6502 the retro computer that needs no chips
LaserMan by Flying Bear 5.5W Laser Engraver - In Depth Setup and Review
zhlédnutí 734Před rokem
LaserMan by Flying Bear 5.5W Laser Engraver - In Depth Setup and Review
The Naish Hover Inflatable 80l is the Biggest Disappointment of the Season
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed rokem
The Naish Hover Inflatable 80l is the Biggest Disappointment of the Season
Crappy Mini Solar Panels - They go bad when subjected to sunlight
zhlédnutí 252Před rokem
Crappy Mini Solar Panels - They go bad when subjected to sunlight
BLOG: The Portable Power Station that failed the review
zhlédnutí 132Před rokem
BLOG: The Portable Power Station that failed the review
Making The Perfect Road-Warrior Steam Deck Console
zhlédnutí 161Před rokem
Making The Perfect Road-Warrior Steam Deck Console
Mounting the foot straps on your Naish S27 Hover Inflatable - it's not as easy as you might think.
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 2 lety
Mounting the foot straps on your Naish S27 Hover Inflatable - it's not as easy as you might think.
60 Days of SelfPV - was it worth it ? - what's my profit ?
zhlédnutí 879Před 2 lety
60 Days of SelfPV - was it worth it ? - what's my profit ?
60 Tage Balkonkraftwerk - eine Abrechnung und ein Blick in die Zukunft
zhlédnutí 3,5KPřed 2 lety
60 Tage Balkonkraftwerk - eine Abrechnung und ein Blick in die Zukunft
Portable compressor autopsy part 2 - Let's fix it !
zhlédnutí 276Před 2 lety
Portable compressor autopsy part 2 - Let's fix it !
Good video, thanks
Hi, this is the best review of this machine I haver watched! I have this amazing machine and I like it for a lot of nice features, BUT what really grinds my gear is the module blocking system: the slide is too lose and the module moves vertically (I mean not up/down, but the perpendicularity of the module itself) affecting the focus of the laser. Even if you tight very hard the blocking screw, it will move during your works, missfocusing and affecting the cut line mode. That was really tricking for me to understand the reason of so much different results in works with exactly the same settings for cut and fill. Anyway I still love this machine, I would only like to have much power, like 20w. Is it possible to mount a different module? If so, which one would you suggest?
Infinite huh 😂
I just bought a unit that is from a different brand but looks exactly like the one in this video (prob assembled by the same factory) Perfect!
There are a lot of things you could have done. You could have used a hose with a larger diameter and you could have made the hose shorter. You could have also designed the attachement of the hose to the unit differently. After all most air will always take the path of least resistence. So the reason why a lot of the air didn't want to go through your hose was that it offered too much resistance. So the unit prefered to take air from other sources, which is probably why you had your problems. The less resistance in your hose the more air will come through the hose and the less air will take the other, undesirable paths.
Another idea is to not even connect the second hose to the device and simply let the warm air blow at the bottom of the device. That way the device can "chose" to take air from the room or from the second hose. It will take some air from the hose so this alone should improve the performance of the device. Of course the same thing as before applies, but to a lesser extent. A wider and shorter hose will feed more air through the hose and into the device, instead of feeding the device with air from other cracks in the room. I think that this is one way those devices operate. The devices sucks in air from other (probably colder) rooms in the house and heats the entire house up, while cooling the one room with the device. Probably not a good idea. Maybe the is how the device is able to somewhat hide it's glaring inefficiency.
Arizona it gets 117°. I don’t think 2 hose is sufficient. I don’t think the condenser coils will get cool enough so it’s better for me to just have a single hose and deal with a little bit of the negative pressure.
117 deg F should not pose a problem for the condenser. You might want to insulate the hoses then though.
In my opinion the sealing on both ends prevent the grease to come in. Is there a reason why you don’t lubricate when it’s open?
I've never thought of it that way - but the rails always greased up fine with proper bearing grease, and that only needs to wet the surfaces.
Wow! Have you tried this at actual cold weather? Like 5°C?
No, this unit cuts out around 12C, I did not try to mod the sensor so far.
Cut down on the long winded review. Man you could speak on endlessly lol
I get that from my students a lot ....
Third hose seems the obvious way after seeing this video, but why don't you just lift the unit up? I'm trying to mount a shelf near the ceiling and install my portable ac there as I have also ax exhaust hole in the house wall; I think this way I can shorten the exhaust hose and also make the unit cool the hot air near the ceiling and 'shoot' it at the floor. I think I hope I'll get some improvements this way over a standard floor installation.
PS your single to dual hose videos are awesome, thank you very much for sharing!
@@giuseppearcieri1944 Yeah, that is a good idea too.
Almost all of the single hose airco units cool their plc's with room air that exits via the exhaust air to the outside. This because it makes the single hose airco a little bit more efficient (but obviously for dual hose systems it greatly reduces efficiency. This is by far the greatest leak in the system and can only be fixed by modding the casing and airflow to the plc.
If you check the temperature of the room at 1ft height intervals you may find the hottest air is not as high up as you imagine.
yeah so I have a very similar AC to this (comfee, which I think is just midea lite?) After the dual hose mod I easily get to 21°C in my room on a 32°C weather day Before that it struggled to keep 24 and it was also warm in some areas of the room. Now it's cool throughout. In fact, if I set it to 22°C it just turns off for long intervals so I save a ton of energy Everyone that has one of these should know about these mods, it REALLY helps
Thanks!
Bought this printer and EVERY VITAL screw needed tightening. After 2 full days of calibration i'm finally getting good prints. Those who say it worked great out of the box were lucky
Yeah, I've heard this a couple of times now - seems like quality control is lacking a bit - I gave my review unit to my son, and it's still going strong.
Is it normal for these units to feel like a heater is on instead of a ac unit
No, definitely not. But this modification was driven by the fact that they tend to suck in as much heat as they cool down. Generally: they are not very effective as they come.
@@dherrendoerfer I can also feel the pressure raise in the room also is this normal
no.
How did you come up with a 60% efficiency increase? Before insulating, you cooled down by 2°C per 30 minutes. After insulating, you cooled down by 5°C per 30 minutes. Meaning, the unit becomes 2.5 times as efficient at the end, that's an increase of 150%. (5°C/2°C=2.5) (2°C + 2°C * 150% = 2°C + 3°C = 5°C)
Yes ! A performance of 150% is an increase of 50% over the previous value. It's just the wording that implies that 'increase' means above 100%
I'm thinking you WERE overextruding. This happens when the extruder has backslippage issues, that exacerbate themselves at higher extrusion rates. When you calibrate extrusion, you run much higher feed speed than your print consumes, you consume 10cm within a few seconds, while in a real print, a minute may pass. Normally you're supposed to remove the nozzle or hotend to calibrate extrusion flow to eliminate back slippage. Stock extruder often has issues. Weak spring with way too little preload, which also relaxes with time and loses preload. Extrusion gear wear. Quality of extrusion gear machining. I think it should be a steel piece with fine teeth, but instead most of these printers ship with a piece of brass pinion wire, which clearly isn't made for this use. Of course you can just buy a different extrusion gear for almost nothing and the classic the cheapest extruder you can get, the MK8 one usually in yellow anodised aluminium, has the necessary feature to adjust idler spring preload. If you have a plastic idler lever, well you have the problem that if you add spring preload, you're going to break it. One can maybe print one in PETG or HIPS and maybe keep an extra around - the lever i printed in PLA with preload adjustment exploded after a year. Or just buy an aluminium extruder, since it's so dirt cheap :D Or buy something actually good like this fake Titan, that works too i guess :D There is of course a lot more finesse to extruder-hotend combo but the other design issues tend to cause more situational drawbacks.
You're probably right with that assumption, I think there were many things wrong with the old extruder. The main issue was the throat getting way too hot, leading to that popcorning of the filament on the outer lines while underextruding the support and infill. I updated the firmware and the feed settings and both were well-calibrated, with no load on the extruder motor, and in operation extruding at different rates. I'm currently thinking about a spider or mosquito upgrade. But the printer itself has aged quite a bit becoming soft and loose on the rods and bearings.
Nice video. However, I've seen other videos showing that some AC units ARE insulated while being single hose. It's just device dependent, but for to remember!
yeah, research first buy then.
Somehow I just bought this exact unit before looking for a video on 2 hose conversion. 😊😂 So this is perfect! Only difference is I bought the 9000 btu one.
Why would they manufacture more popular one hose models when they could just make them two hose for pretty much the same price while being vastly more energy efficient? Well, isn't that a little bit of a mystery... considering the whole industry is gung ho about the climate and environment.... It's almost like they would RATHER be inefficient.... I really would LOVE to understand
I don't have an answer to that - I suppose it's to keep people unhappy and upgrading constantly. I've been in contact with two manufacturers, and they claim single hose is good enough, dual hose to complicated for the customer. I've been trying to get my hand on a real dual hose unit, but so far to no avail. Also, I've not been able to get a high efficiency low power cooler to test - seems there's also no market for that.
@@dherrendoerfer I saw a dual hose unit on Home depot's website in the mid 300 dollar range... several on ebay too...but a lot of them on ebay say Ebay reconditioned or remanfactured... maybe be just as good. I dunno
Why don't they sell them like this in the first place
Egggs freakibng XACTLY!!!!! I mean... HELLO!! Look how green we have to be with the new regrigerants... ultra efficient systems... appliances.... and yet.... they can just willy nilly make one hose AC's that are about the least energy efficient thing you can possibly think of... aside from just running the thing outside in the heat.....
Little confused, did I miss the part where the second hose is actually attached? Or is that in another video? So far I just saw the discussion about what you could do, but not how to do it.
I have a complete series about this topic - I might make a short overview video soon
Very useful thank you very much friend!
Just finished this upgrade on my old Whynter ARC-10B, and the difference is astounding. It is 120% worth it to pull the covers off the unit and tape over the open space, now this little AC actually performs worth a heck and gets my living room cold! I had been taping cardboard boxes with dryer hose over the intake for years, resulting in a poor man's "dual-hose" setup, but now the hot and cold sides are fully isolated and the performance is just wild. I used 6" insulated ducts (for hydroponics) for intake and exhaust, there is *very* minimal heat leakage from the exhaust hose, and the AC even runs a bit quieter too. I paid ~$250 for this AC in 2014 and it now runs better than ever! Thank you for this video.
I have a second video where I add a third pipe to the intake of the evaporator that pulls the air from a higher point in the room - that adds another 15% of efficiency easily.
I would suggest to 3d print a rectangular adapter to enclose back and side and shrink to a round tube ending in the hose for inlet of exterior air. maybe less restriction ?
Removing any restriction is a good idea, but keep it tight, you don't want the extra hose to leak hot or humid air into the room when the unit is not running.
SPEAKERS SOUND AMAZING!!! 💯🔥 THE BEST 20WAT SPEAKERS. 💯🔥
Always wondered if u leave the door open with a single hose will it not have neg air pressure cus it can pull from the rest of the house and if U have a dual hose and it bad out say Smokey air fan the smoke leak out once it brings the air inside and leak into the house
A dual hose unit should be airtight enough so none of the air cooling the condenser leaks into the room. Granted, thats hard to accomplish, but we get quite close to that.
Where can I find the adapter that you 3D printed???
I haven't seen the unit yet but all of these I've dealt with have two exhaust ports. One usually has a cap. The two are for convenience of where your window is located left or right of the unit. Now looking at your unit where you put an adapter that shouldn't be an exhaust port. Warm air should only exit from the designed exhaust port. The one you connected to is an intake you don't want that going out doors as you'll be sucking in hot air. I may have misunderstood your explanation at the beginning. Now you're talking about two hoses. Those are both exhaust ports. At least in the dozen or more I've used. An easy explanation is place your hand in front of every vent on your unit. If you feel warm air exiting the vent then it should be ported to exit the area you're trying to to cool. If you feel no warm air at any vent then it's an intake. If you feel cold air coming out of a vent it's obviously a cold air vent
Yes and no - I add a port for the second hose where the air that will be exhausted outside is drawn in - this hose is also now pulling air from the outside. The fact that this air is hotter now makes no difference to the phase change heatpump, because only the temperature difference across the condenser counts. The second point is to make sure that the two hoses don't introduce hot or humid air into the room you are trying to cool. So the hoses and the AC itself must be well insulated/airtight. Lastly we don't want the unit to create a vacuum inside the room, because it will then pull air from anywhere - the airtighter the house or room the more the efficiency drops.
hi sir, would you mind to share the driver of the motherboard please, thank you😊
I don't have them any more - but I don't think I ever needed them at all.
I made a similar conversion for my mohorhome however my problem is, due to the lack of space, I had to install the original exhaust hose and the new hose to take the air from outside very close together. Do you think that might be a problem? This would mean the condenser is probably going to take some hot air previously exhausted, mixed with the exterior air
Generally yes. The units usually have enough coolant to support a wide temperature difference across the condenser and still be efficient - maybe you can add guides or vents in a way that separate the air flow somewhat. I build a recessed unit using the three hose design for a friend in a mini-apartment and it works like a charm.
Cus if u add a second hose to cool the condenser it won’t reallly do anything the ones they sell with 2 hoses are mad to use the outside air to cool the condenser then expel that air and the air it wakes in gets recirculated, if u add hose it can magically make the air recirculate so it will still be dumping the good air outsode
But aahh
Will the dehumidifier mode still work with this conversion?
Yes, but not as well, as they usually want you to not connect the outgoing hose in dehumidifier node.
Would it be worth while putting a fan in the funnel shaped inlet from outside and maybe a fan assisting exhaust?or would it tax the system too much
No, it would probably help. But you would heat the cooler with outside air, or introduce humidity maybe.
Tried it without insulating the inside. I’m getting better performance out of my portable AC.
Um the bottom is likely the dehumidifier and the top is where it takes air in?
Can u please tell me how to download chipset drivers of h61 mini itx motherboard?
I have no idea ...
I did this on my Hisense 12000btu and it turned out great, turning on and off like an air conditioner should, and saving energy.
pls share the dimensions of your mod :)
You mean the exhaust hose adapter ?
pls share the dimensions of your mod :)
where is the building plan ??
Linked in the description of the video.
Have you got the stl for the adaptor plate you made?
This one ? drive.google.com/file/d/1FOqgT4FUPJWSTS5HMjqzY3ct0FBWRn6B/view?usp=drive_link
Great video Dirk! I am considering building a small PC with this board also. I have a pair of old G.SKILL Ripjaws (F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL) - any idea if those will work with this board properly? I saw your recent comment saying that you got it working with a set of 'PC3-12800 PC3-12800U 1.5V CL11 240 Pin 2RX8 Dual Rank Non-ECC Unbuffered' - but I don't know how to figure out which RAM will work, and which won't.
Yeah, this board is hit-and-miss when it comes to memory - chances are that many modules may work, but I can't tell you exactly wich ones will do. I just bought the cheapest that was non ecc and 12800U rated.
@@dherrendoerfer thank you !
Thank you for the review Dirk.
Are the fragile without the frame?
The ones I have are not, I've moved them twice now, and I think they are just as good as my other panels.
Hello. Perfect job ! You seem to be someone perfectionist and pugnacious (as a quality of course). You helped me a lot in my research. Did you insulated the 2 interior parts (hot // cold) of this unit with thin insulation sheet + thermal silicone sealant as well, to prevent any air leaks? Finally, do you think it would be interesting to switch to 2 insulated exhaust ducts for air exchange with the outside? (I am thinking of thermal exchanges but also noise attenuation). Sorry for my bad english :)
Thanks ! never heard of that second adjective before ... I think that insulating the hoses only makes sense when you have a very long way to go, in my case I think it's not needed. The unit I have here was not modified internally, I think it's good enough, at least way better than all the others I've experimented with.
I need BIOS Back Up from SZMS B75-MS please 🥹 is broken. I cant find it
which bios utility are you using ?
It is the same motherboard that you have, SZMZ B75-MS from Aliexpress, my BIOS is corrupt and i have a CH431A Bios programer.
It is the same motherboard that you have, SZMZ B75-MS from Aliexpress, my BIOS is corrupt and i have a CH431A bios programer
ok, my question was targeted to find out what tool you wanted me to use to dump the BIOS, so you could use it, but if you have an external programmer that does not really make so much difference.
@dannysshoot06 This fought me a little bit - Here you go: drive.google.com/file/d/1LV69BPD1qABb58sDX5MHeAh0_FHzu9MB/view?usp=drive_link
This would be great, thanks for your answer
Can anybody tell me I would Plug in the Solarpanel and the DC Plug parallel, which one does the Allpouwer Station prefers Thank for answers in advance
It uses both at the same time, as far as I can tell it uses all of the Solar and adds the rest up to its charge maximum from the AC input. It only has one DC input afaik.
Awesome music, thanks!