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The keys of the SE61 from edge to edge are about 84 cm across, but the structure supporting the keys requires more horizontal room than that, which I can't measure because it's built into the wooden sides. You should probably allow for around 88 cm width. (Note that key widths are not consistent between different keyboard brands and models!)

Thank you. There are so many people making such high-quality videos on CZcams, my efforts in that regard are very amateur, but the editing was a learning experience and I hope my future videos might be better.

Thank you :)

When you buy the kit everything is more or less self-explanatory, but midi-boutique.com can answer whatever questions you have about it.

@@AaronAndrewHunt Thank You

I would like to do that, but no, unless you're in Germany, it's not practical; sorry.

@@AaronAndrewHunt I would have paid for shipping though. I wanted wooden keys for a Hauptwerk project. But That’s okay. Thank you so much for the reply though. You are doing an amazing work!!

@@josephlittle-organist Thank you.

Die Software ist Hauptwerk und das Instrument ist "Cembalo Mietke" von Sonus Paradisi.

​@@AaronAndrewHuntvielen Dank. Hab ich mir fast gedacht. Fand das Video u.a. deshalb interessant, weil ich auf ähliche weise mit einem günstigen Midi-Keyboard mein Elka-Midi-Basspedal retten möchte. Hab zum Glück das gleiche nochmal gebraucht kaufen können, aber das defekte will ich nicht wegschmeißen sondern umbauen. Liebe Grüße

@@Keyboardhugo das Projekt klingt ja spannend. Viel Glück bei dem Umbau!

@@AaronAndrewHunt Danke. wird aber noch eine Weile dauern. Nach einer Schulter-OP bin ich erstmal eine Weile als einarmiger Bandit unterwegs… Wenn ich das Projekt angehe werde ich das wohl auch auf meinem Videokanal veröffentlichen, wie ich das auch mit dem 3. Manual an der Kirchenorgel meiner Gemeinde gemacht habe. lg

Vielen Dank.

Circuit boards are not cut. All the electronics stay as they are. Only the plastic is cut and the plastic keys are moved.

@@AaronAndrewHunt Alright. Seemed like chopped off some keys too. But I was wrong apparently.

Roland used to sell a sampled harpsichord F to F (very expensive). I'm not selling these, but if you don't need the "wood conversion", moving the key-tops is not too difficult, so maybe you can manage it yourself using the video as a guide. I would recommend starting with a better keyboard than this one.

@@AaronAndrewHunt thanks for the reply! Would the interiors be similar on other keyboards in your opinion?

@@seok84 The trick is to find one that doesn't use springs. That's not easy to know in advance, but if you have a keyboard in mind, search CZcams for "teardown" or "repair" on that keyboard and you may be able to see inside. Many if not most Yamaha keyboards will work.

@@AaronAndrewHunt thanks for your kind replies!

@@seok84 You're welcome, and good luck!

Vielen Dank, Oliver :-) Falls du die Orgel dort mal richtig midifizieren möchtest, könnte ich da wahrscheinlich helfen (wohne in Bochum, also nicht so weit weg von dir). Schick mir doch einfach eine E-Mail, dann können wir darüber reden. Schöne Grüße, AAH

No. I've tried to show how it's done so you can make your own. If you have questions you can contact me through the contact page of my website (search my full name). Best wishes

Sounds nice! Actual wood keys are a lot better, of course. The plastic keys are still far too light. I added weights, which helps, and the feel is definitely superior to plastic alone, but it's not like solid wood. If you share your work online, please send me a link.

You're very kind! In terms of the quality of the keybard, it's very cheap, but works okay for my purposes. It's velocity response is quite poor, so if you want to use it for piano sounds, I don't recommend it.

Thanks for your kind words.

Thank you! There are a few performances on CZcams of pieces from the first book. I've also started a third book this year. So, we'll see!

It is not velocity sensing. A velocity sensing version was also developed, called the Megaplex, but only a few of those were made.

@@AaronAndrewHunt shit ! ;D

Standard 15x2mm self-adhesive foam rubber. Not shown in the video: On both ends I added 0.5mm double-sided adhesive foam to hold the top piece firmly in place, because it was still making a little noise. BTW, I also ended up putting weights in the keys to improved the action.

I have seen people put wood under the keys to increase the mass too.

There was / is still a lot of variety, but larger instruments went / go down to low F or G.

Thanks! I made wood pitch bend and mod wheels on the Korg mikrokey 61 which you can see at 15:57

Fair enough 😂