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That’s what I’m worried about is that the extra oil pressure will cause other parts to fail. Wouldn’t it make more since to swap the pickup tube if it’s clogged or both at the same time ?

Well OEM Oil changes say at 9320 miles or 15,000km,( or 9 months which ever comes first, so you could effectually only do 1,000 miles in 9 months ,so change the oil, depending on how the engine or car was driven) but no mention of oil flush before, plus if you use good oil, but then use flush it will release any materials which could effectually get stuck in any of the filters, like in the sump bi pass value and or in the vlom oil filter ,so again sure use Mobile 0 w/ 40 or 30 weight oil or as per oem spec 5w30 but good quality oil and change it at the 1/2 way mark of oem spec oil changes then you will have a good engine, but then again it depends on how you drive it as well, the more rev's she gets the more friction ,thus change oil more frequently? I have a 2015 SSV Redline with the L77 with AFM, driven at around 7,000KM or around 5,000 miles and so far all is well, if the car is driven mostly on hwy's, its better for the car and engine, as everything gets up to temp, cheers :)

this is 100% the way to keep any engine running for a very long time. proper and regular maintenance schedules. 3000-5000 miles. any manufacturer that tells you that don't need it till 10k, is banking on making money selling you parts later. or a new car again later. period. I won't even let synthetic oil go more than 3000 miles before changing it.

It's a specific pump for a specific setup, not for just any old engine you dufus. Listen to what Cale's sayin man

To help you out the 5.4 / 4.6 3v would be the one to go with

yo james, im currently replacing my l98 engine with a second hand one as i had scored bores. the second handy engine is under warranty but do you reckon its better off changing this stuff before i put it in and void the warranty? or just leave it till after warranty. i just dont want damage to occur again then when its out of warranty just dies

Getwrong Depends on the amount of miles on it and the length of the warranty you got. It’s a lot easier out of the truck. Parts are expensive though either way. If the motor is not making any lifter noises the cam will last the life of the truck if you do the lifters now and save yourself a bunch of extra work.

exactly , nice way to not take blame for shitty lifters, melling and even ac delco take a shit once in a while.

Brent Bradley I had a complete timing set done. Stock pump and aftermarket timing set. Now I’m having chain rattling issues. Didn’t before . So he might be rite.

@@Hickory_Ridge_Taxidermy Wrong wrong chain rattle is ONLY caused by a blown out tensioner O ring.

Brent Bradley hey man I’m not questioning you. I’m actually picking your brain.. because like I said I had a Cam phaser job done just because I had that Ticking noise and every now and then at low speed had chain rattle. Ok so now, I got whole new timing set, with lockouts and had hellava chain rattling... so I took it to someone else. And they opened it up and said my tensioners were junk Chinese ones. He put OEM Ford tensioners in it... now get rattle every once and a while.. what should I do. Redo the whole job with OEM or what???

@@Hickory_Ridge_Taxidermy It might not be chain rattle. Rattle from tensioners only happens when first started after sitting for a while and many vehicles have gone forever with a little rattle. Putting a real oil pressure gauge in it is a good idea, most modular Ford engines put out about 20 PSI when hot, idling, in gear, and with the AC off.

Brent Bradley this noise is not at start up. It’s only when going down the road and mainly on the hwy. very rarely does it, in town only going 35-40. Scares the shit out of me. Don’t know wether to crack it back open or not. I can’t even get rid of it like this , in good conscious.

Fits both

Chris Langieri they don’t know

Yep

way late reply but thought to add my two cents. Sounds like plenty of oil at operating RPM, assuming that oil pressure immediately rises when your RPM gets off idle. Cause for low idle pressure could be simply that you have pretty loose bearing tolerances or need to change weight of oil. If oil pressure is low at higher rpm that could also include causes like oil pick up tube seal problems or screen plugging or a problem with the oil pump. You problem suggests that the engine oil system is just not being filled as well at low rpm so the escape of pumped oil needs to be slowed or the oil volume needs to be increased. Steer clear of high pressure pumps for a street motor, that will lead to trouble.

Have ran the engine pretty hard, no issues in the last 3 years, don't run it alot, but hit 7k rpm on accident once no issues, seams to be good..

What's the alternative to hydraulic lifters?

@@s1mph0ny This system uses "De-Act" lifters that deactivate cylinders for a small boost in fuel mileage. He was referring to the problems associated with the deactivation system not hydraulic lifters in general.

@@joejones2935 That actually makes a lot more sense haha, thanks.

@@Aaron-dp5kb You should email the head of GM engineering that deactivating cylinders during highway cruise uses more fuel and they will immediately halt production.

@@Aaron-dp5kb it also deactivates the four injectors during this cycle

honestly it's a good upgrade to do at any mileage if you plan to keep your car for a long time. I am at 193k miles on stock pump on the 3 valve 4.6 engine on my 2008 Mustang GT. I should have replaced the pump when I did my timing chains at 140k or so. oh well. But to answer your question, you would have to do an oil pressure test or have an oil pressure gauge installed on your vehicle to tell what the current pressure is.

In the 5.4 engines, if you hear timing chain rattle or your cam phasers knocking, you probably have insufficient oil pressure to the top end and can greatly benefit from a higher volume oil pump

Been running 5w30 for the last 100k on my 260k 5.4. No timing noises and inside looks good w very little wear. Reason for opening up the motor is a wicked oil leak from the timing cover seal so adding a 340HV and backing down the oil to 5w20 for more flow.