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Great minds think alike! Yes, that old factory plastic is pretty flimsy.

Glad to help. Why the mfg. didn't put any wheels on this freezer is beyond me. Most seem to have 2 wheels in back and then adjustable feet in front.

I think the interlock switch must be inside one of the 2 holes inside the grinder opening. Those are the holes that the 2 pins that pop out of the hopper when the knob is turned to lock it in place. Perhaps there's some coffee grounds in those holes or something that's preventing the pins from pushing all the way out. My guess is it would be the hole to the back of the machine that has the switch, might be able to see the wires from that below the top cover when it's removed.

Bean hopper not seated correctly: czcams.com/video/uo9G6g6tZ_w/video.html

I've never torn mine apart more than in this video. I did disassemble and clean the burrs in the grinder in this video: czcams.com/video/0ZDii493IPY/video.htmlsi=GWmTPuYVNv9TPldy You might want to contact Breville support and ask if they have any detailed assembly information on that part. And a replacement grinder assembly is also available if you can't get yours working.

@@The4Crawlerwow, thank you so much for such a fast response. I’ll reach out to Breville and see what they think!

Thanks for the order, should have that part in the mail in the morning.

Check out the pinned comment on this video: czcams.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/video.htmlsi=7GtVN89WGO3Xi0lZ It has lots of troubleshooting information. Follow where the water is going and see at what point it goes the wrong way and that'll help pinpoint the source of the issue. Could be the grinder is not fully seated as that can cause the lights to blink. As far as water coming out the wrong place, perhaps the water tubes are hooked up incorrectly or the solenoid wires have been swapped.

Not yet, but I intend to give that a try in the future as I have some hardwood floors that need to be refinished.

I've never attempted to calibrate my scales nor could I find any documentation on how to do that. I did link a video in the description that discusses the calibration procedure, maybe the creator of that video has more information. One option is to record the weight error and then just add or subtract that from the displayed weight.

Several methods to do that. 2 meters with a CT on each hot leg, Line1 and Line2 and meters connected from Line1 or 2 to Neutral would show all the data. One meter with CT on one leg and measuring Line1 - Line2 is another way, shown in this video: czcams.com/video/LhR-Z6lBeZw/video.htmlsi=GcnDpCgEQt4FO1dg This assumes current in Line1 and Line2 are close to the same. Or you can run Line1 and Line2 through the CT (swap the direction of one of the wires) and then the current display will show the sum of the 2 currents (amps1 + amps2) and then connect the voltage terminals between Line1 or Line2 and Neutral (it will read 120V or half of 240). And half the voltage times twice the current - actual watts.

@@The4Crawler ...prefer individual meters for each of the 120V legs....so 2 meters. Since the "power" connection for the meters will be from some dedicated breaker for each "leg"..I would think of using one-breaker per meter. To assure the reading integrity of each meter....we need to be careful where the breaker picks up power....to match the same 120V "leg" where the CT measures the 120V leg into one of the double-pole breakers used as "main" from genset. Although it would function, we don't want to mix these up id using 2 meters is to monitor the health of each incoming 120V power leg. Thanks for the tip.

@@The4Crawler ..another question. What is the "desired" ( technically/code) way to connect wires from the CT in your main panel load center....to the meters located outside of the load center? For clarity.. my load center/main panel is mounted flush to drywall in my garage...and there is a removable section of wall immediately below my panel where I can locate the 2 meters between studs. This removable wall section below the panel will be clearanced such that the face of the hard-mounted meters will show flush with the removable wall section. I presume Smurf tube or like kind connector is used for the larger ( 14 ga ?) wire that connects the breaker power supply Inside the load center....to the meters below......can the smaller CT wires be co-located with the power lines inside the Smurf tube?....or need they be separately run?....what's your suggestion?

@@TheWilferch Apparently OK to run the CT and power wires in the same conduit: www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=181101 I would use something like shielded, twisted pair cable for the 2 CTs to help keep those signals clear of the 120V power wires. For my split phase, whole house power meter I just run the CT wires outside the panel and then the meter plugs into an in-use receptacle below the panel (mine is outside the house).

@@The4Crawler ...thanks again for the info and for the quick response. Cheers.

Much appreciated!

Yep, still have the web page: www.4crawler.com/index.shtml and the 4Runner. Having to go through rebuilding a lot of little things in it to get it ready to hit the trails again.

@@The4Crawler that's the website, thanks! It still has the same look and feel :)

@@The4Crawler that's awesome that you are taking the time to get all the rebuilding stuff done!

Good point, I'm check the brass fitting every year or two. In 7 years use, it has discolored a bit: photos.app.goo.gl/GeTSn1FSgLHnA6pFA I do have a PVC hose barb fitting ready to replace the brass fitting if it does spring a leak.

@@The4Crawler it took mine about 12 years to eat through FYI. thanks for making the video!

@@troyhough Good information on the lifetime you got. I may swap out that fitting then before it rots out so it's still useable as a spare for the PVC fitting I have. Only issue I find with with plastic is it seems to like to crack after some years, so having a ready spare is a good

@@The4Crawler I don't think it will ever crack unless it's overtightened or there is unnecessary strain.

Is this with the original plastic or the bronze bushings? The plastic bushings seem to be set up very tight from the factory. Those bushings are somewhat sloppy and then deform to fit tight when compressed. With the bronze bushings, it's not required to set them up as tight since they are a precision fit. As long as there's no play up/down, they are good to go. If you installed the bronze bushings and they're tight on the idler arm shaft, it may be due to excess paint on it or a rough finish. Try sanding down the shaft until the bushings slide on without jamming.

​@@The4Crawler. Thank you.

I'll have to check that out. Looking on the hill shade map, I can see those old roads. It looks like that is county park land on that side for quite a way up.

This unit is rated for up to 10 gallons/minute flow rate: www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000218507/ So as long as it's under that, likely not a lot of pressure drop. It's intended for whole house use, but I'm just using it for the tankless water heater and hot water piping.

That's how I did mine in the long run. Bought a new valve assembly to swap into the machine. Then I could take my time to open up and clean and test the old valves, which are now my spare set.

@@The4Crawler I think for me, it is the valve that you can open up. The metal slug (?) that should slide up when a magnet is applied, seems to be getting stuck - I could not open it yesterday, but I did manage to open it just now (the brass nut is soft, so I wasn’t going to force it last night). I don’t have quite the same brown residue, but there is scale present in the “tube”, on the slug, and some in the valve body that appeared to block the hole that the slug covered. Will update later after a few more hours soaking in vinegar

It's near the Grizzly Flat trail junction: czcams.com/video/SUIoMG5UkAU/video.htmlsi=7G1_8zttjWgCxT2n

@@The4Crawler perfect. I’m going to look for it this week

Yes, it's usually not a lot of condensate. Does your condensate drain come off of the side of the exhaust vent or does it come out of the bottom of the unit?

I imagine it would run that long, depending on the power needs of your NAS. I'm now running mine with a 6 bay Synology w/ 4 drives plus my PC, monitor and networking gear. I have the UPS plugged into the Synology and then have that set up as a network UPS server to send a shutdown notice to the PC and that's been working well. I have the Synology go into Safe Mode after a few minutes on UPS power so it has time to shut everything down.

I have a single left hand bit, but it was too big for this set screw. But yes, those things do work well.

Great, glad to help. Spacer should go out this week. You're lucky, the last shaft I had built came out a bit over 1" too long. I couldn't even pry it into place with the slip yoke fully compressed! Took it back to the shop and they rebuilt it the proper length.

Sorry we don't make any for that model. But see below for a possible DIY option: www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/IdlerArm.shtml#On-lineOrdering

I've never worked with the Mk2 relay lever itself, but some information on the Mk1 lever below: www.4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/ShiftLinkageInstall.shtml#RelayLeverShim I think the Mk2 lever is set up a little different and the shift linkage rods are different lengths on the Mk2 transaxle, especially the forward selector rod is a lot shorter than the Mk1 rod.

I show some of the cleaning process in part 8: czcams.com/video/frj2fXXALec/video.htmlsi=JHwghm5C351wmNwY and part 9 of this video series. The description should have information on the products used.

No problem 👍

Glad it helped

Yes, there is an o-ring in that elbow, see photo 3 in the album below: photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59

I don't think there's a set schedule for this. I usually do it based upon how the grinder is working. As it gets plugged up the adjustment may need to keep being turned up or down more than normal or the volume of coffee out of the bottom seems to be less. In that case, it's likely the burrs getting loaded up with residue, in which case a simple cleaning (see other video on that in this playlist) is fine. But if the coffee coming out slows or stops, it's likely clogged below the burrs and then you need to open up the grinder and clean out the passage below.

@@The4Crawler well I've been talking good care of it& it's working great so I'll probably won't have to run a deep cleaning like this anytime soon;) Watched so much videos about this machine before and after I've bought it it's honestly insane

I've never run into that issue myself. Might try reconnecting the cable or try connecting the cable with the charge controller on and off and see if anything changes. If not, see if the Epever support folks have any ideas.