Video

It's hard to comment considering you have a different model, but make sure there are no set screws anywhere holding the handle together ;) Having said that, the plastic tabs could be quite difficult to pull out, and you need to figure out which direction the cover is supposed to go out. Some specialized tools might help, e.g. something like a dental pick. Good luck!

@@JMIWorks I did eventually get it off without breaking it. The ss cover was virtually identical. The key thing seems to be the two deep plastic tabs, one at the top and one at the bottom. I am lucky that i didn't break them. I think the secret is something like after removing the little periphery clips, then pull from the center of the ss arc, and simultaneously push in/up on the bottom where the tab is (6:54) to clear the mount hole. Mine has a relay board in the middle of that ribbon cable. I ordered a new relay. I hope this helps others.

Thanks for sharing, hopefully it will help someone!

If this is an old Ipad, the battery is most likely dead, the problem disappears after battery replacement. The symptoms are very consistent with that hypothesis.

@@JMIWorks Thanks for unsware, i replace the batery and still the same , now the loop is faster with the new batery

Not sure then, you can try to update firmware from DFU mode (help.ifixit.com/article/108-dfu-restore)

Cutting glued screens is always tricky. You need to work out the heat, make sure that it is hot enough for glue to soften, but not enough to damage the screen. A1340 I believe has a gap in the adhesive a couple of inches down from the top right corner (IIRC), you would want to insert your prying tool in there, or go standard route with the suction cups. If you're really desperate to open up the screen, you may try a few drops of isopropyl alcohol. It works, but I can't recommend it. I've seen screens damaged by alcohol seeping in-between layers :(

Are you talking about top part of the lid, metal disc with Cuisinart letters? If yes, then you simply snap it back in by pushing it in from the top, there are no screws, glue or anything like that.

Not sure I understand ;) What's the question?

Hard to tell, but I doubt that's calcification. Water is not supposed to get inside the lid in the first place (not regularly anyway), and mineral deposits usually tend to happen on metallic parts, not so much on plastic ones. I think that it's he small springs that might cause a problem like this, there are a couple in the kettle, including one in the lid. These can get out of position, and get re-seated back into a proper position afterwards after some finagling.

@@JMIWorks Yes, when the button failed and I pulled off the top exposing the mechanism I could see that the button wasn't doing anything. The visible springs weren't even moving. Seeing how there's one lever-like tab that presses against another in the lid to release it, there was some misalignment. Thanks for the tip on the calcification. Sounds right, that it shouldn't form on plastic.

@@JMIWorks No further snags. The lid is operating well. Looks like it getting stuck was more of a fluke. But I'm totally confident I can unstick it if this happens again. Thanks much for all of your help!