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Thanks! It's a fun and useful project

Theoretically you can lose a bit of power, but in practice I don't think you will even be able to measure it. i.e. all your material settings should remain unchanged.

​@@mas_effects Thanks! Good to know!

Create a text file with 5 lines per patch: Line 1 to show on the display (e.g. patch title), Line 2 (optional, patch sub-title), Control 1, Control 2, Control 3. You should end up with a 40 line .txt. Now use 'make_labels.pl' (linked in that github README) to make it a binary file, then use an EEPROM programmer to burn it.

No, package type doesn't make a difference. The only way you'll get a worse sound is if you choose a different component type. For example if you replace a film cap with an X7R ceramic cap, there are some instances where it can negatively impact the sound (negligible, but occasionally measurable). But that's not related to SMD per se, and you'd get the same result if you substituted a ceramic through-hole.

@@mas_effects Thank you for a quick reply. I should remember your advice about ceramic caps.

I'm not sure I agree. It's the absolute cheapest option on the market in its class. There's no way they can add a red dot without raising the price, which undermines its primary value proposition.

@@mas_effects perhaps, but I rather pay extra and get more, maybe a pro model.

Hey Matthew. You bet! We haven't even properly "launched" it yet, but have been selling them to early adopters to get feedback and make tweaks. I'm finishing up the landing page for our site now (which is where this video is going to live), and getting all the parts stocked up to put together a new batch of kits. Timeline still TBD, but probably 1-3 weeks.

@@mas_effects Awesome, I will definitely grab one!

Awesome! Hope to see how it turns out if you post it in the forum. Either way don't hesitate to reach out with any questions. Have fun!

For sure. Now its form factor is tailored to this pedal, so you'll need to figure out how best to mount it (e.g. double sided foam tape). But there's no reason you couldn't. I just put together this "Hacker's Guide" which will show you some ways to use it, but feel free to hit me up with any questions along the way: masfx.io/pickup-simulator-hackers-guide.pdf

@@mas_effects thanks for the quick response! is possible to do it passive (Without the 9V) and put an external toggle to select between Humbuckers and Single Coils?

Hey Juan, sorry I'm having a brain-dead monday morning. Yes it's absolutely passive. Check back at the link in 10 minutes for an update that omits the power. An external switch is possible. Just run wires to the board. It's a 2P3T which will be hard to find panel-mounted, but you can use a DPDT and omit the bypass option by leaving pins 5 and 1 disconnected (see schematic). @@juanpinasco3738

@@mas_effects HAHA don`t worry, its happen to everybody on monday morning. thanks man! appreciate the answers!

Yeah those are great. I have a few scattered about my workshop. The one in the vid has a magnet too. :)

It's just a common red pointer, powered by 5V.

No unfortunately (or fortunately?) that's probably the hardest part of the process. If you have needle nose pliers you can try using those. Just be very careful to pull the connector and not the wires.

nm I really had to tug it! Also of note, if you are getting a red line instead of dot, twist the tip of the laser to focus. So happy to have this done...not the easiest upgrade but makes it so much easier to get the laser EXACTLY where you want it! I also did the Ruida Controller upgrade at the same time using the Ethernet port hole...I spliced the wires so that I wouldn't have to cut the machine--much better to do both upgrades at one. Thanks for all the help and the quick email reply!!!

You can pull the wire out of the channel and adjust how much slack is on it, if that makes it easier.

Hi, can you share purchase link for this upgrade?

It'll fit in there physically, but the control board is different. I can't verify there's a way to draw power from it. If not, it would need to be powered externally. At the site in the shop listing, it has a link to a USB adapter that could be used.

I was thinking the same thing for my Gweike Cloud Pro I. were you able to get this working?

@@VKeeper42 We've had a few Gweike owners use this successfully. Physically it fits perfectly. It's just a matter of powering it. I don't think anyone has hooked it up to their control board, though. They used a 2.1mm barrel plug adapter to power it. I know there's a variety of control boards out there for this machine though, so check yours to see if you can find a spare 5V and GND connector.

@@mas_effects I've just installed this in my Gweike Cloud II Pro 55W and it went in just as easily as described. I picked up the same USB power adapter suggested on the ordering page and plugged it directly into a spare USB port on the board. Looks great. Works great. Now I'm just fine tuning the aiming.

I don't but it's pretty straightforward: Remove those 4 screws on the back panel, then pull the panel forward and pivot it down (you'll see it has a cable keeping it attached - just leave it). The fan cable is taped to the back of the machine, just unplug it and remove the screws holding the fan in place. That's it. When you put it back together there'll be a gap where the fan was, and I just covered it with duct tape. Eventually I replaced the tape with a 3d-printed shroud, but that's optional.

@MAS Effects Yeah, that sounds easy enough. Also, do you have an eta on the red light beam. Thank you. Michael

@@michaeltanner1162 they're for sale now on the site. First two batches are sold. I'm waiting on parts for the 3rd batch. Best guess is 2-4 weeks but they're shipping from halfway across the globe so I can't be sure

@@mas_effects By removing the stock fan did that help quiet the polar noise down, also did you use the supplied inline fan? without the stock fan did the supplied inline fan seem to remove all the smoke from inside polar. again, Thank you. Michael

​@@michaeltanner1162 I don't think it changed the noise too much since the inline fan is louder. I have a very short run of hose (~1m) so the inline fan is more than powerful enough to both pull the smoke from the enclosure and eject it through the window. I removed the enclosure fan since it has less air flow than the inline fan and was probably hurting more than helping. If I had a longer run of hose I'd want both fans.

Thanks, I'll add that to the description too.

Sorry this was just a one-off. I have more old CB testers (different styles though, I think) in a box somewhere though, so maybe I should dig it out and build the rest.

@@mas_effects Can I ask you the price for the total with delivery to France?

Well, yes and no. You can turn down the width completely in the reverb mode but it's still a heavily filtered tone and you'll notice it's darker. But it won't be wobbly. In delay mode you're stuck with the tremolo.

@@mas_effects oh ok, that's kinda what I figured. Definitely not a deal breaker, but was wondering how much I would be able to simplify my board when I buy one. Actually works out because then I'll have an excuse to add an old Guyatone pedal back to my board for standard delays. A pedal that I absolutely love but had been redundant. Thanks so much for the quick response! Can't wait to get this pedal, it's bloody amazing. Great design!

Glad to hear it helped! And I'll check it out, thanks!

Sorry no trails, but yeah it sounds great on bass.

@@mas_effects good enough for me, this one is on the shortlist!

I mentioned this in other replies, and perhaps it should have been more emphasized in the video... This was a response to the MANY people I've talked to the on the forums who don't want to do SMD because they think it requires extra gear/material/supplies and extra skills. It's meant to show you don't need anything else. But I'm having to leave this reply so often I should probably either pull or update the video.

I'm usually at 350 with quick applications of heat.

@@mas_effects Thanks a whole lot, this is the most forthright video on the topic I've seen. A++, 10/10, would recommend.

By the way, not shown in the video, but if you want to make it easier and can invest in a small upgrade, a syringe of flux will do wonders. Just put some down on the pads before setting the chip down.

@@mas_effects I have a flux pen, would this be much in the way of similar?

@@tziirkq Yep. It dries more quickly than the paste but otherwise will work great.

do you mean solduh

@@fdre3wsd closer than sodduh

Exactly! 👌😂👏👏

The focus was on, as you said, a minimal approach. I see too many people think they need to buy more materials or learn new techniques, so this is a response to show them that "No, in face you can do any SMD with what you already know and have!" That said, you're spot on right (and I do use a flux syringe in all my SMD soldering) so perhaps it'd be a good idea to go back and update this some time to add a section about it at the end.

It's just a prototype demonstrating the OLED. The final pedal will be a different audio circuit anyway. This one has the guts of the Tiny Fuzz which you can hear here: mas-effects.com/tiny-fuzz/

@@mas_effects I see, is the oled reactive to the controls? I assumed maybe the tv would get more staticky as u push up the gain

@@ladyelect9274 I made a bunch of programs for these modules (you can see a few here mas-effects.com/diy/#oled) - many of which were reactive. E.g. an oscope, frequency analyzer, a mouth or eye that opened, a pong game you could play with frequency or volume... The noise issues on these interactive ones were WAY, WAY harder to mitigate. This one in particular, and the extended version I'm putting into the upcoming production version of this, do not integrate the audio signal for noise-mitigation purposes. I hope to someday find solutions so we can have more fun with interactive screens, but right now they're pretty far off.

@@mas_effects I remember a vox drive with an oscilloscope in it, i'd maybe look at the internals of that to see how they did it. dunno if that helps though my apologies if it doesn't

by the way i love that you sell these as their own pcbs, would you ever clear commercial usage of these? I imagine that would be the end goal like how some pedal companies actually have a lot of revenue from letting others use their etchers

No problem. I use either a T-18B R0.5 (like a dull pencil), or a T18-D16 (small flathead). Looks like the latter is about 0.5x1.6mm

@@mas_effects thanks I appreciate it!