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harleyrider883
Registrace 10. 05. 2007
Harley Davidson Pan America Brake Fluid Change
A quick look at the location of the two drain points and noting the wrench sizes needed, which didn't seem to be listed on any other videos so far. (7/16 for the back and 5/16 for the front)
zhlédnutí: 253
Video
Breaking a motorcycle tire bead with a trigger clamp and making the clamp easy to pack on the road
zhlédnutí 517Před 4 měsíci
I wanted an easy way to help replace my motorcycle tire on a very remote road I'll be traveling. With space at a premium, needed to make the trigger clamp easier to pack. The video shows it taking 7 seconds to break the bead and how to make the clamp easy to pack.
Installing a Viking Seeker Tank Bag on a Harley Davidson Pan America
zhlédnutí 217Před 4 měsíci
Installing a Viking Seeker Tank Bag on a Harley Davidson Pan America
Harley Davidson Pan America Grab Bar Removal
zhlédnutí 116Před 5 měsíci
Removing the plastic grab bar to allow luggage rack installation (only the grab bar removal is demonstrated in this video)
Wipeout Foaming Cleaner vs Copper in a 416 Rigby
zhlédnutí 32Před rokem
Wipeout vs Copper (Spoiler alert: Wipeout wins!)
Reassembling M1 Garand in 7.62 Nato
zhlédnutí 232Před rokem
Shows an M1 Garand modified to 7.62 Nato / 308 Win being reassembled, including the spacer unique to this model.
Do M1 Garand en bloc clips work for both 30-06 and 7.62 x 51 / 308 Win? Yes!
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed rokem
Loading for 30-06 and a 7.62 x 51 M1 Garands
AvalancheShort
zhlédnutí 34Před 3 lety
On advance observation for avalanche control at Roger's Pass. Nobody's going to out-ski this one ...
Primary Chain Case Lubricant Change -- 2009 Harley-Davidson FLHT
zhlédnutí 119Před 4 lety
Primary Chain Case Lubricant Change 2009 Harley-Davidson FLHT
Harley-Davidson Electraglide (FLHT) Engine Oil Change
zhlédnutí 18KPřed 4 lety
Harley-Davidson Electraglide (FLHT) Engine Oil Change
Double Barrel Rifle Regulation -- BRNO 803 in 9.3 x 74R
zhlédnutí 2,8KPřed 4 lety
Getting a double barreled rifle's two barrels to consistently hit point close to each other isn't something most shooters have to try. Here is my fairly successful effort. This rifle is also known as the CZ Stopper. If you can find one in 9.3 x74R, 416 Rifby, 375 H&H or 458 Win Mag, grab one. Your shoulder will hate you but it will be a lot of fun!
2015 Jeep Patriot Transfer Case (PTU) Gear Oil Change
zhlédnutí 31KPřed 5 lety
Follow-up to previous RDA oil change video
Quick, Easy and Cheap Spark Plug Change on a 2015 Jeep Patriot
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 6 lety
Quick, Easy and Cheap Spark Plug Change on a 2015 Jeep Patriot
Marlin 336 Bolt Removal and Reinstallation
zhlédnutí 42KPřed 6 lety
How to take the bolt out of a Marlin lever rifle and reinstall it.
Ruger Super Redhawk barrel after electrolytic cleaning: borescope view
zhlédnutí 591Před 7 lety
Ruger Super Redhawk barrel after electrolytic cleaning: borescope view
Jeep Patriot 4x4 2011 Gear Oil Change on Rear Drive Assembly (RDA)
zhlédnutí 51KPřed 8 lety
Jeep Patriot 4x4 2011 Gear Oil Change on Rear Drive Assembly (RDA)
Electrolysis for Gun Barrel Cleaning: 10 Years of Lead From a Ruger Super Redhawk
zhlédnutí 21KPřed 10 lety
Electrolysis for Gun Barrel Cleaning: 10 Years of Lead From a Ruger Super Redhawk
British Columbia Millenium TV Commercial
zhlédnutí 144Před 14 lety
British Columbia Millenium TV Commercial
Thanks for the information
👍 👍 Great video!! Thank you!!
I hope you are enjoying your brno d.r. May i suggest you pick up a copy of graheme wright’s book, “shooting the double rifle”. When regulating the d.r., you want to measure the distance between the bores of the two barrels. This should be the same distance between bullets holes on paper at your chosen distance. You are setting the rifle up to shoot both bullets parallel to one another from zero out to your maximum range; lets say 300 metres. With the brno you should have your bullets printing in a vertical line, the distance between the upper barrel and lower barrel. The way you have the rifle set up, it may shoot bang on at 50 metres however, at other ranges, your bullets will be all over the paper. Kind regards, Max
Great video. Thaks.
lovely
Great video, thanks! Do the front straps smash the bag down or is the front of the bag hardened somehow? Also, do you find the bag hinders your view of the instrument screen at all?
Thanks ... the straps are low enough on the front end that there is no "crumpling" pressure whatsoever. The angle at which anyone will sit on the bike means that there is no conflict with the screen at all. You will have to quick release the front of the bag to fill the tank. You'd probably want to do that anyway to avoid the possibility of spilling gas on the bag.
@@harleyrider883 Thanks for the reply and again, great video!
Thanks man, I was scratching my head trying to figure out how to loosen the tail lamp to access that last T bolt.
Glad it helped! Have a great riding season ...
Thanks awesome video tells all the tools you need how much fluid how much torque cant beat it!😅
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful :-)
Thanks great video. I inherited my grandfather's 35 remington 33 years ago. Time to put a new scope on it an actually use it this season. Needed to bore sight it.
Gee weez, mister. You make it look easy. Thank you.
Thanks for the video! Just installing a big loop and this really helps with understanding the mechanism.
Glad it helped!
If it not to bother. You could have show how you apply the grease unto the plug.
Good video. Thank you.
Thx, so easy compared to winchesters
Thank you 🙏🏼
Thank you this is very helpful 👍👍
Thanks for share this video
Take the bolt out before you remove the lever its much easier.
Great vid and great tip about loosening the fill plug first...draining it and then being unable to get the fill plug off--classic kind of problem I'd run into.
Haven't we all been there (about a hundred times!) 😉
The James Bond theme song comes to mind.
Lol!
Thanks for the help my good man
So grateful for this video. Shows angles and location...tools required. So fewer headaches for me.
Glad it was useful! The second time you do it, I suspect it will take you under 20 minutes total. Just for fun, when you're done, phone your garage and see what they would have charged :-)
Thanks for the video. I cleaned my grandfather’s 30-30 properly thanks to you.
You mentioned a "spring", how would know if the spring is is not properly installed or it is lost in side?
Sorry, just saw this. If you look on the left side of the rifle, more or less opposite the ejection port, there is a very small hole, maybe 2 or 3 millimeters in diameter. If there is a small piece of round metal that is completely filling the hole, it is installed and almost certainly in place. If you can see through the hole, the spring is not properly in place.
Акробатика одной рукой. Почём ценник?
Thank you so much for that straight forward no nonsense video I wish all videos could be like yours because you showed exactly what needed to be done and then did it. Thanks again keep up the good work sir
How can I get an replacement extractor spring?? Any help or info would be appreciated.
How do you know it is not removing the inside of your barrel (the steel)?
You have to make sure that you have the correct current flow. I've also done a magnet check on the material removed and it is non-ferrous.
Greetings, I had to replace the extractor spring on my 30-30. Your video is an excellent tutorial on removing and replacing the bolt. The task went without a hitch. Thanks for a great job, even with only two hands!
Hey Sam, I don't know if you will even see this but I just wanted to ask you if the ejector pin malfunctioning would cause your bolt to slam back, get caught and be unable to slide forward again. I was a little to rough with my rifle and am hoping that is my only problem, Thank you Karsen
Thank you very clear and concise 👍👍👍
is this transmission CVT?
No, 6 spd automatic...
But CVT would be identical, unless the fluids indicated in the manual differ slightly.
Being a clumsy oaf, I pushed the bolt in all the way before sliding the lever in. Any tips on how to release the bolt and slide it back?
That one of the few unintentional mishaps that I haven't run into yet. I'm guessing this though, the lever likely pushes the bolt a bit up as well as forward and backward. You might want to get a hardwood dowel or a rubber coated piece of metal (or rigid piece of plastic) and push from the bottom upwards and see if that unlocks it. One way or the other, don't force anything. It's a simple low-force release. Just keep trying different things. I'm assuming that you've tried to insert the lever, even with the bolt fully engaged?
Btw, we've all been there!
@@harleyrider883 I tried to push it back with the cleaning rod but it was solid so opted to unscrew the trigger housing and insert the lever then put back together. I won't make that mistake again!
That little spring is the ejector correct ? Not the extractor. How could that spring extract the case from chamber it’s to far back from the chamber! I guess you may have misspoke. I just didn’t want people to be confused. Thank you for the video.
You're quite right ... my error!
Is it the same on the 2.4L fwd manual tranny
Sorry, I'm not sure. I suspect so. If you take a quick look, you will likely see whether it looks the same.
Should you wait until the new oil stops dripping out before closing it or close it while it’s drilling? Thanks
I'd wait until it's done. That way you know for sure that the level is below the opening, reducing the likelihood of a leak.
@@harleyrider883 do you think a quart is enough for both? The RDU started dripping out, but the ptu didn’t start dripping out before the quart was empty, I prob put in a little less than a half a quart
It ran me somewhere about 600 ml, or just over half a quart
Sounds like you've got it going right!
Best idea would be to follow the Harley "cold engine check" and "hot engine check" to ensure you have the proper amount of oil as to not damage the engine. You will ALWAYS have to add some to get to proper level on dip stick after the initial fill.
It's called the ejector
Can you tell me what the screw is next to the safety switch? Mine is missing and I’m having a heck of a time figuring out what it’s called...
This website should give you the name and part number. I'm guessing that you would want to check under Section 60, where they'll list off the individual parts and numbers. It's always the smallest, cheapest and hardest-to-find part that will make a $800 gun unuseable! www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/marlinglenfield/336-series/336a
Yeah, I’ve looked at that diagram several times. It’s not great for showing where the screws on the receiver go.
I use this method, electrolysis to restore skillets/cast iron & have been doing it for several years with good success. Negative lead to the item to be cleaned, skillet & positive lead to anode. At 5:36 in the video you show the rod with the rubber washers to center the rod, but the bare rod is touching the inside of the gun with what appears to be a bare end on the rod. That would be a problem if the rod is bare. Otherwise, good video.
Thank you very much for videos.
I put a thin layer of gun grease on the end of the lever. The part that fits in the slot that has been cut into the side of the bolt. That thin layer of gun grease makes the action cycle smoother. Just a friendly tip.
Excellent point. I use Mobil 1 synthetic on anything that slides. I didn't mention in the video, but very helpful addition!
Thanks Brian for that wonderful tip, I just obtained a 2000 model 336M 30-30 in Stainless and I love it. I need all the tips I can get.
Couldn't thank you enough. Have had my model 1895 apart several times - the ejector spring never has fallen out. It fell out today lol - 24 hrs before my trip. Scrambling for some idea of where it came from - thank you. Well explained. Saved my day.
The day before the season begins ... the only time guns break! ;-) Happy hunting!
I "lost" my ejector while i was cleaning my gun and searched for hours. 40 seconds in you said "dont drop it inside the gun" and it clicked that i hadnt checked down in the mag tube area. Popped it open and there she was wedged down in there. Thank you a ton you saved me about 50 bucks for a new one.
Collectively, we could all probably put together a comedy (or tragedy!) of all of the places that we've lost and found things. Once looked forever for a screw only to realize that I had already put it back in... ;-)
This video just saved my ass. Thank you so much! I had pulled the bolt out and the spring fell out and onto my floor. I was like “WTF part is this and where did it fall out from?!?”. Thanks to you I was able to put my weapon back together. Whew!
We've all been there ... and will get there again! ;-) Glad it helped!
Great tutorial, just bought the dark edition .
Enjoy it! Glad the videos were helpful.
I wonder if changing this fluid for the PTU and RDA will improve my 2012 Jeep Patriot 2.4L 4WD's performance with 133,000 miles on it
Under normal circumstances, I don't think that you'd notice any immediate or obvious performance gains. Oil generally keeps other parts ftom wearing over considerable periods of time and can help with heat dissipation. If you haven't changed your spark plugs at the right intervals, that's something that might have a more noticeable impact.
Great video! thank you for sharing knowledge.
Thanks! Hope it helped!
Thanks for posting this video - it sure helped. I removed the passenger side tire, and there's pretty much a straight path from the wheel well to the fill hole. You can fill it easily that way with an 18 inch length of tubing. My drain plug was a 24 mm nut - I used a 1" open end wrench. Both the drain and fill "plugs" had washers. The drain plug had a teflon washer and the fill plug had a steel washer.
Excellent work ! Now you have to go out and spend your "savings"! ;-)
This is BADLY MISLEADING. DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL FOR THE SACRIFICIAL ROD. You are creating hexavalent chromium, a DEADLY poison! www.metaldetectingworld.com/anode_positive_electrode_p9.shtml Also, if that is a stainless barrel, you are using your stainless barrel as the anode, which is even worse. This removes more steel and creates more toxicity. The barrel of the gun should be the cathode!
Completely agree on the sacrificial rod -- it's steel, not stainless. As for the anode/cathode, this is what every other instruction for barrel electrolysis does too. It is the opposite of what I do for cast iron cleaning. I have taken a magnet to the accumulation on the rod and it has no magnetic properties and I can see the lead removed from the barrel, with no pitting or other effects on the barrel. It runs for short periods of time (minutes) in the milliamp range, so the potential for damage is very low. That said, it is certainly a risk, although removing some rather significant quantities of accumulated lead reduced another risk. Thanks for the comments.
Where is the 4wd cable? 2014 and 2015 patriot sport
Sorry, that's beyond my skill level!