Video

I don't think the part I enlarged has an affect on the collet's accuracy. If I am right, the process wasn't risky.

The machine functions well. I haven't noticed any excessive runout.

They have held up well, but realize I am not as young as I once was and so don't stress them as much as I may have in the past. The vise mounts get stressed the most with shear forces and have held up well.

Thanks! It definitely makes moving that chunk of steel around easier!

I made a video showing the design details. In youtube search: Counterbalance Treadle Hammer Revisited

If you check out my channels, there are several videos showing the hammer. Search: "Treadle hammer tool rest" to see how the hammer can be adjusted

Thanks! The jig for the fern works well.

It was a great project. I took a class from a near by blacksmith. He had the classic spring hammer. I like trying new things. A counter weight as opposed to springs looked like something to try. In the end it has been a great hammer.

Thanks. You can lock the spindle using a spline wrench on the spindle and an open end wrench on the draw bar. Like you, I wish it was a lever like the Bridgeport. You have to take the cap off and I an careful to clean the wrenches so chips will not drop into the spindle. Overall, it's been a good machine. PM is ready and willing to help you with any problems you may encounter. My biggest gripe is the power feed on the X axis. You can't have a handle on the power feed end so if you are working from that end of the table it is hard to reach to the other end to move the table. All in all, I have no regrets.

Thanks!

Thanks! The only down side is the risk of hitting the posts if you are hammering freehand. That's why I only use it on the treadle hammer. This design allows for much greater diversity in tooling. With most guillotine tools you are restricted by the dimensions of the slot the tools slide through. For example I made a "V" swage and fuller tool that fits under the square cross members.

Only at the end where the machine is driving the posts.

The pipe is 8 inches. The box opening is about 7X7". I never tested the draw. It is connected to an exhaust fan so it works great! :-)

I raise the Dingo's boom then rapidly lower the boom. This causes the tube to drive the post.

To get the machine repaired I had the option of sending the whole machine back or take it apart and send the spindle back. Neither was appealing and would have resulted in weeks of downtime and shipping expenses. This solution was quick, and fun.

I think I mentioned somewhere the hammer weighs 75#. The spring design hit harder than the teeter totter or counterbalance design. The counterbalance design hits hard enough for my purposes.

@@Wkirkleyiphone My guess is because with a spring you have a resistance which starts low and ends high, allowing for a better buildup of momentum than a fixed leverage force?

The mill still runs true. I have had no problems. I still believe my experiment is correct and enlarging the upper portion of the spindle has no affect on performance. I am inot aware of a way to lock the spindle. I do not think there is a brake on the machine. I use a spline wrench for the spindle and an open end wrench on the draw bar. If there is another way to lock the spindle let me know. Bill

Just put it in back gear

pero funciona bien

The collet wouldn't seat with the set screw removed. After boring the top portion of the spindle I inserted and adjusted the set screw. The machine runs well.

I removed the set screw and the collet still wouldn't seat.

@@Wkirkleyiphone sorry, I saw you removed later in video, but was unsure you tried it prior to boring. How do you indicate after? Any chattering due to overbore? That’s guts sir! :)

No chatter. If you look at the end of the video, I did an experiment to see if oversizing that part of the spindle would affect stability. It did not.

That’s fantastic. I’m waiting on a 833TV, so I’m learning all I can now so I can get it operational quickly once delivered. I think my first challenge will be solving for the draw bar with no gear head to switch to low.

Hobby-machinist dot com has a section by PM that has threads on your machine. The participants are great at helping you out.

Thank you

Last I tried I couldn't post a link to the pdf file of the plans. They are in my dropbox account. Maybe this will work. To the beginning of the following string add dropboxdotttcom (I assume you know to substitute a "." for dottt. /s/phdeuo585fd15yy/Drawing%20Swage%20Block%20Stand.pdf?dl=0

Thanks!

Thanks! I must admit I have bumped into many a corner in mu shop. I'll take your advice and round the corners

Yes, kind if like a Corvette. I wasn't going for simple. I was trying a new idea. I enjoy that sort of thing. For me it's fun.

As someone pointed out I was increasing the radius, not the diameter. So the diameter was double what I thought I was doing. Based on the design of an R8 insert I do not think the dimension I increased affects the stability of the insert. The experiment seems to agree.

Thank you!

Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you found the video helpful.

In CZcams search "pm-833t spindle fix" and a video I posted should come up. Basically an Interstate collet wouldn't fit so I enlarged the upper end of the spindle

Overall, it's a nice machine. I had some problems with my spindle and the backlash but I was able to work them out. Once I things were sorted out it has preformed well. I would buy it again. PM has great customer service. They go to great lengths to resolve problems.

We don’t have Precision Mathews in Australia, but I can order a Linmac mill that is belt driven. Looks like the same machine and I can order it with ball screws, which is kind of nice.......

Scott Bathie I'm not familiar with that machine. The one I have is made in Taiwan as opposed to China, which is supposed to be a plus.

Thanks!

It is a generic single speed winch I got at Northern Tools. Just Google "Hand Winch" and it will give you lots of options. As you might expect Amazon has them as well.

One feature to look for is the ability to ratchet in both directions. It's not necessary but comes in handy

@@Wkirkleyiphone Thanks for the reply. Yes, the ratcheting in both directions looks specifically useful. Thanks again,

Thanks!

You do realize the springs serve the same function as the counterweight, they return the hammer to it's up position. On the "downswing" you are stretching the springs. The more you stretch them the more force you have to apply. With this hammer on the "downswing" you are lifting the weight, which is a constant force through the entire "downswing".

That is why you need spring action in both directions. One is for convenience/ergonomics, the other is to add power (speed) to the strike. There are some designs where you engage the treadle lever a little and let go - > hammer head lowers, then swings back higher than resting position -> 'downward' spring lengthens -> when the head reaches its apex position you fully engage the hammer, the spring compresses and you get a much more powerful blow.

All of the spring hammers I have seen and used only have "spring action" in one direction, lifting the hammer. I have never seen one that pulls the hammer down.

There is no question the spring design hits harder. I have tested both and know that to be a fact. The counterweight hammer is well suited for light to moderate work. The adjustable treadle and hammer head make it more comfortable to use.

There's this one www.spaco.org/Trdlhmr/MfrdTrdlHmr.jpg but more importantly this design: czcams.com/video/8_PQSxM82cU/video.html

I made it from scratch. I bought a hydraulic motor, the bearings, and machined the other parts.

Thanks! The spread sheet is a great way to get data for various ratios. I wanted a tighter scroll. The 10:1 ratio worked well.

Yes, there is a fiddle factor. For us 100 pound weaklings, though, it’s all we can do! :-)

I added a brass rod to keep the cable from rubbing. There is a notch and E clip at both ends. I posted a photo in the show and tell section on the blacksmith dot org site. The thread is titled swage block stand.

Stephen Jolley N

Thanks!

The swage block weighs 125 pounds

thanks for posting this.

I liked it except for the forward thrust. I felt with time it would wear the hammer tracking wheels.

I don't think the rollers aligning the hammer would hold up.

As mentioned in the video it does not hit as hard as a spring hammer. However, it does hit pretty hard!

+J Sigalas Thanks! It came in handy when I had to place a dozen railroad ties along a fence on the opposite side. It reached over nicely and set each in place without much effort.