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You have to too bleed it correctly, while it’s moving water and thermostat is open. That’s why people have so many issues is wrong information. Done it on 20 diff Nissans and infinity.

​​​​@@Stature17My bad...and it does make sense. I have been dealing with this for a while does the radiator cap stay on? while you do this? And how many turns for the bleeder screw? 😂 One more ..,so do I start the car before I open bleeder or after there seems to be so much pressure when it's hot I don't want the screw so blow out I have a 2006 G35 x sedan what a pain it's been to bleed I've watched a million videos. I'd appreciate your expertise this has been a thorn in my side

How are u buddy

@Stature17 I'm good! If you still got my number you should hit me up brother!

Yes. Only when I’m trying to left foot brake. It has something to do with the brake booster I think.

Why do you come on to just hate? Keep it to yourself or go somewhere else I don’t care for anyone else’s opinion! And my tires are brand new.

Loosen and take out one bolt on each side mount, the front one you can take out. Loosen the trans mounts so it’s loose enough too move. As long as the mounts are still in with the subframe even if it slips it can only fall onto the mounts. Just be careful where your jacking point is. It’s simple just have to do it a certain way otherwise it won’t come out or go back in

I have some shorts on my page if you go look. Thanks for the support

More tools more time. One tool, five minutes, done. Thanks for your suggestion.

If it’s a 6cyl then yes just located different and not sure on the 4cyl but knowing Nissan there’s probably a valve you just gta locate it

@@Stature17 thank you very much for the info really appreciate it 🙏

Drifting is insanely popular idk what drifting you’re talking about

Egr. Take it out & clean it. It’s gna be kinda stuck so I tap it w a rubber mallet and it’ll come out use brake clean and a wire brush if it helps then replace it or if it’s good leave it

@@Stature17 no EGR on it says the diagram under the hood anyways

@@DciNator what car is it and what year bc all new cars have an egr valve. It’s emissions based and for efficiency. I’m pretty sure every single car with a throttle body has an egr valve. Especially Subarus

Sounds like either an egr issue or idle air control. What year?

#1 never care what others think about you! Haters will only hate on someone doing better than them, you’ll never see a hater, hate on someone doing less than them. When someone does that it’s only bc they are jealous or envious of what you are doing.Not sure what you mean by what happened… I took more off than you need too bc I was doing work to other stuff if you can do the work wothout disconnecting the harness that’s fine not gna change anything unless your unplugging and plugging stuff in with the battery connected. That’s the easiest way to fry a brand new sensor or an old one. The old ones will almost always go bad if you plug it in and the battery is connected. A leaky valve cover doesn’t always cause a check engine light but there’s an easy way to tell if it’s the gasket. Pull the pcv vacuum lines out of the intake tube and plug the actual intake so it’s air tight the rubber hoses can go in an empty soda bottle for 5 mins make sure the battery is unplugged and resetting the computer (30mins min disconnected battery)once that’s all set start the car and let it run too see if the codes gone. If it’s gone then the gasket leaks causing the light. You can drive the car like this but I suggest getting a cheap oil catch can for driving instead of the bottles used only for testing. As long as the intakes sealed it’ll run fine if it leaks it’ll cause the same issue. I hope this helps

@@Stature17 for real , idk why but I always received the harshest criticism from people I know and random strangers. I'm just not used to it yet cuz I've just allowed myself to be exposed to it cuz I'm coming into a new level of awareness. After I wasted a next day of work due to rain, I pulled it apart again today and found the right side gasket exploded in 2 places so I replaced it. I used some gaskets maker from work for the Detroit truck engines, but this time it cleared most of my check engine lights most concerning was the cam position sensor code that's gone now but was on that same side. Now I'm still getting a blinking check engine soon light because its now fart out oil in that corner. This time the gasket maker got pushed off. So I'm going to risk it and drive to work to get access to my tools so I can grind it this time. But it runs amazing I put this off of 3 years and been occasionally rewatch the remember and now you giving me words of encouragement, thanks for being a Human.

@dorrystalkerkilla sounds like the pcv system is clogged. Pull the hoses and blow them out with air too see it it changes

​@@Stature17Naw I'm thinking the surface might have been contaminated, crack valve covers cuz their used,or nor sanded enough cuz I was trying not to get sand in the engine. I'm going to change them both again and do it with the most care,😅.

@@XxIcybluexX it’s easy and free to check the pcv system and make sure it’s clear. But if it’s clogged will cost you another valve cover gasket hopefully bc if the gaskets good and new it could blow out somewhere else even crack a block

Not unless you unplug the coil packs or any sensors. If you just pop the coil and change the plug only then no it’s fine

@@Stature17 Okay thanks, I ordered new plugs and I will try to change them myself tomorrow. Thanks bro

Your fluids probably shot! Try changing out some fluid use something too suck the reservoir out and refill w new fluid see if it helps at all if it does you know your fluids boiling. It’s a commonly overlooked issue that kills slave cylinders and people just keep replacing instead of wrapping the fluid lines near the header

I’ve thought of how to do it. And since I heat wrapped everything 3x thick I haven’t had the issue missing 3rd.

You have a clogged pcv somewhere if that’s happening. Air can’t escape the crankcase so it’s blowing out seals so before fixing the oil pan I suggest finding where the ports are blocked

It will 100% affect performance bc it controls variable cam timing. And you don’t want one side different bc ones good and ones not.. best to fix it asap.

Because it’s not just a fan relay. It’s the ignition relay also.

Bc I didn’t sit and actually grind it it was already done. Just showing how I did it. No reason too lie.. think what you want how about try it before you talk about weather it works or not…. Thanks

Haha thanks… I guess

It’s def in the same area but it’s diff for turbo cars? It should be similar shape somewhere on the top of the block. And any time I unplug a sensor, I disconnect the battery.

I pieced it together off Amazon and other places. The kits on Amazon but I only needed the pipe and mass air flow sensor adapter the silicones and clamps are junk so I got better ones from AUTOZONE and a k&n filter from Walmart. They have good filters for cheap in comparison to most places.

@@Stature17 tha k you I'm going to try to piece something together for my m35 DE

Plenum, intake manifold, & lower intake manifold gaskets- there are 3 if you’re not using a spacer and 4 if you have a spacer.

Can you fix the typos so I know what the question says… lol idk what you are asking

@@Stature17 Hi Andy- Sorry for the confusion- I was just saying that I have a 2008 M35X where the temperature gauge is recording high then goes back to normal then high again but never to the point of overheating completely- This issue started almost right after they replace the radiator in the car. My question is would it be that they never “Burp the radiators” Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks again