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Kevin Dickson
United States
Registrace 14. 05. 2011
A mix of backcountry skiing and housing in Denver and Summit County
Testing Thin Ice on Dillon Reservoir!
Bryce and Kevin risking icy death on Lake Dillon.
Most alpine lakes immediately get covered in snow after freezing, so this is a rare treat.
Most alpine lakes immediately get covered in snow after freezing, so this is a rare treat.
zhlédnutí: 12
Video
#16 1995
zhlédnutí 71Před 6 měsíci
Snowmo skiing with Hans-Michael Schloemer. He drove down Avy Bowl (Sweet Carlita) on a 1984 Vmax needs editing
1999 Carolyn Colman Honeymoon Deutschland
zhlédnutí 40Před 6 měsíci
1999 Carolyn Colman Honeymoon Deutschland
Eric Bard on the Vertical cornice
zhlédnutí 29Před rokem
The steepest descent from Ptarmigan Hill, but sort of stable in May 2023
Old guy punishes Ptarmigan Hill 4 26 2022
zhlédnutí 83Před 2 lety
Old guy punishes Ptarmigan Hill 4 26 2022
Mines vs Western Josh Johnston touchdown
zhlédnutí 86Před 2 lety
Mines vs Western Josh Johnston touchdown
Stan hooks a tree at the bottom of Avy Bowl
zhlédnutí 58Před 3 lety
Stan hooks a tree at the bottom of Avy Bowl
Denver South vs Lincoln game 9/19/20 bottom of the seventh
zhlédnutí 12Před 3 lety
Denver South vs Lincoln game 9/19/20 bottom of the seventh
Denver South Softball Sixth Inning Rally vs.East
zhlédnutí 46Před 4 lety
Denver South Softball Sixth Inning Rally vs.East
bryce where weree you....after a long time
I'm right here has it been long enough?
Nice to see you all having a great time out there!
Awesome turns!!
"avy safe"
Uncle kevvy shreddin
I just ended up replacing the tank, was faster.
HaHa they only last 8 - 22 years anyway.
fyi, always pre-soak those inlet nipples with WD40, or some Penetrating oil overnight, that helps a lot, to break up the Rust that's holding it in place. And if that don't work, a propane torch is your next best option. 🤘🏽
Good info., but the lighting was low, thanks. Hey by the way did you ever get that rascal out, you worked so hard at it?
Keep pressure on the nipple with the pipe wrench and hit the end of the wrench with a 3 lb. mallet. Worked for me to replace the dip tube on a 30-year-old tank. I saved the cost of a new tank. Never use an impact wrench on a tank.
Weak point? If you had to do all that id say it was ok from the factory
good luck lol
Styro is in many countries banned from use where it can be exposed to fire and high temperatures, due to the very toxic fumes it gives in those circumstances. Still legal to use embedded in concrete thaough.
Junky
My heat traps went bad and I had to remove them. They will bend if a pipe wrench is used, UNLESS you take a metric bolt just under 7/8 inch and run it down into the nipple, the pipe is now a solid piece of metal, just remove with a regular pipe wrench. Someone commented that heat traps should be used, think about this a nipple is 3/4 of an inch and a flap on a heat trap is 3/8 of an inch, if you want to take a shower with the hot water turned all the way on because it is trying to go through a tiny 3/8 hole go ahead. Ask an inspector if it is okay to run 3/8 pipe for your water heater and he will think you're nuts but that is what you have with a heat trap 3/8 on the cold and 3/8 on the hot
Fyi, the hole water passes through in your shower valve is about 1/4 of an inch
I bought a brand new hot water heater and one of the 2 nipples was cross threaded so I tried to remove it . Never could get it out so I had to return it for another one. I couldn't remove it on a brand new one so how am I ever going to remove a nipple from a 10 year old one?
I am sure that you will find good way to make it on WoodPrix Webpage.
I really liked the bushing Idea, but I didn't like the idea of drilling and having shavings drop into the hotwater tank. I modified the procedure just a little. I purchased 3/4" brass pipecap and threaded it onto the nipple. Then I turned clockwise to tighten the nipple. Eventually, the corrosion broke free and then I was able to turn counter clockwise very easily and remove the brass cap and nipple. I found the hot water side to be more difficult than the cold water side. In Summary: - Put 3/4 FIP Brass Pipe Cap on the nipple. - Continue tightening until the nipple breaks free in the tightening or clockwise rotation. This may require a cheater bar. I needed a breaker bar with a 1 1/8" socket and a three foot piece of black pipe to get enough torque to finally break the corrosion - Turn counter clockwise to remove the brass cap and nipple assembly. ( At this stage the nipple will turn out very easily) - Add new nipples.
You must've found a renter for the Scamp did you have anything else available?
Love it!
awesome product review.. gonna buy this one..
What is a SIP?
+Javier Fauxnom structural insulated panel
OSB
Good god, who would do this? The nipples aren't supposed to be removed. You have a brand new water heater with a dent in the side, and you crushed the nipple on the top due to your stupidity. Water heaters don't last more than 10 years anymore, so there is no point to remove a piece that lasts 10 years.
+Don Moore Thanks for the constructive criticism! These nipples have built in check valves. Since I was using it for a solar system, I had the need to pump the water the opposite way of said check valve. I guess I could have drilled out those plastic parts, but I didn't realize how hard it would be to unscrew a simple nipple.
+Kevin Dickson Thank you for taking constructive criticism so lightly instead of blocking the user, and disabling ratings/comments like most people would.
I'm replacing the original water heater that was put in the house when it was built. The house was built in 1992. That's 25 years ago. I've been here 20 years and the original owner gave me his paperwork from when he bought the house. So, don't say, a water heater is only good for 10 years.
Incorrect. If you have half a brain you can get the nipple(s) out. The company that makes the water heater has fooled you. That's what they want.
Yes they are meant to be removed if you have a failure or you're warranty is out. So there's that. Ask any Plumber and they will tell you that they have had to change Tank nipples for various Reasons.
Hello Kevin, my name is Melissa Garrison. I just sent you a viewing request, but wanted to let you know that my husband, John, and I have taken the virtual tour of your charming house, and would like to let you know we are VERY interested! Not only does it have everything we are looking for, but an abundance of charm. We LOVE that it is a classic from the 50's! Naturally you need to know more about us, but a few things I can tell you about us, is that we are both mature, extremely responsible, non-smoking, non partying adults, who would care for your home as if it were our own. We'd love to be your tenants, as well as the caretakers of your delightful home. You can reach me, Melissa, at 303-726-7878 any time of day. I look forward to hearing from you Kevin. Thank you so much for your time, and consideration!
This is one of the most impressive Passive Solar homes I've seen. The quality, the function, the Indoor air quality, THE Natural Open LIGHT! and the style.. I want one. WOW- Total future home.
Pete, this system has no high limit, so the T&P valve is forced to release some water if there is no hot water ever used. In testing, it was about 2 gallons/day. That's not an acceptable control strategy though, because those valves are designed only for emergency water release.
How do you control temperature? And the pex will not split when frozen.......I made a ring, submerged it then sealed it so no air for compression froze and thawed many times that winter outdoors........😀
Most home owners don't have the skills and tools to do this!
Level up. You should have the tools and skills.
If you tighten the nipple BEFORE you remove the pipe above it, the seal will break and you can then remove the nipple without all the pain and agony and #$% words!
You call that a jump?
I bought a brand new hot water heater, installed it and noticed that one of the nipples was cross threaded and leaking. Of course by this time the hardware store I bought it from was closed for the day. I tried like hell to remove the nipple so I could put it back on correctly. Could never get the nipple to move. Ran it long enough to take a show that night. Returned the hot water heater the next day. Check the replacement while still in the parking lot and found the side was smashed in when I opened the box. Did it ever come off or did you just buy a new hot water heater?
They worked out great. They are a year old, but look and operate just like they day they went in. So they are stable.
I'm thinking of making these. How did they turn out?
They turned out just great. But as noted above, it's not quite commercial quality, just "fit for use".
There's enough air and water vapor available for curing in this assembly. Foam-type adhesives are used in all SIPs. Liquid glue doesn't spread out by itself the way foam does. That said, liquid nails works great in situations like this.
I found out the hard way that Great Stuff will not cure when sealed from air I believe it says so on the can. So my question is how do you know if that great stuff cured or not. Why not use a glue instead?
Challen Bertrand Great stuff needs water to cure, not air (well it uses the water vapor in the air to cure). I'd say wet the inside of the door to make sure it cures all the way (extra water will dry out eventually, as long as you don't soak the plywood panel). I wouldn't suggest you wet OSB though (who would want a door to look like OSB i have no idea)
+2Awesome True, I have since read that a slight wetting of the surface significantly improves performance!
what a mess
As I was pursuing the idea of the foam rod, I realized that the construction of the collector header makes it impossible to insert.
You're right Jay, that's a good way to do it. I had already crushed it, but that method still may have worked. I should have read Water heater rescue dot com first. Lots of solutions there.
smart.
Thanks, that's a killer idea. I've been aware of that foam rod, but couldn't find anything other than a vague advertisement in a European journal. Transsen was the company promoting it. Energynerdist, Do you have any information on a source? Silicone can survive the potential stagnation temperatures of that header, which I've measured to 420F. The heater hose shown has survived freezing solid as well as dry and wet stagnation.
This Thermosyphon heater must return the warmer water at a higher spot in the tank than it received the supply water. Otherwise effective reverse thermosyphoning won't occur when the collector gets cold. Imagine if the collector supply and return were both at the bottom of the tank. It would heat up OK, but when things get cold, the coldest water would just remain pooled in the collector, and it would eventually freeze. I'm also using
Why is the return hot from the collector running to the top of the tank? wouldn't you want it connected to the bottom to allow the hot water to rise in the tank?
You are right. I had to use a 36" breaker bar. Impact wrenches are a bad substitute for leverage if you have enough room. But I think that tool with the hardened shear pin is a good last resort.
Kevin Dickson I just accidentally cut the engine mount plate off my car to cut a bolt giving me similar trouble lol. Breaker bar with cheater bar, good impact...sometimes nothing goes right. I am about to tackle this nipple job because it broke inside (some of us maintain our hot water heaters....going on 15 years now), but never considered a nipple slowing my water intake and hot water output. Took awhile to find. Changing mag rods, dip tube, nipples, and purging the tank outside while there. Probably will last another decade.
We were able to get it to freeze during zero degrees, but ONLY by covering the collector with a tarp, and ensuring the tank was completely full of fresh cold city water. The thermosiphon effect essentially stops at 39F (when rho dot changes sign). Therefore this design should be restricted to climates where the incoming city or well water never drops below 45-50F. We're on to something here: 1. No antifreeze 2. No heat exchanger 3. No pump, sensors, or controller 4. Std. tank