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bryce where weree you....after a long time

Nice to see you all having a great time out there!

Awesome turns!!

"avy safe"

Uncle kevvy shreddin

I just ended up replacing the tank, was faster.

fyi, always pre-soak those inlet nipples with WD40, or some Penetrating oil overnight, that helps a lot, to break up the Rust that's holding it in place. And if that don't work, a propane torch is your next best option. 🤘🏽

Good info., but the lighting was low, thanks. Hey by the way did you ever get that rascal out, you worked so hard at it?

Keep pressure on the nipple with the pipe wrench and hit the end of the wrench with a 3 lb. mallet. Worked for me to replace the dip tube on a 30-year-old tank. I saved the cost of a new tank. Never use an impact wrench on a tank.

Weak point? If you had to do all that id say it was ok from the factory

good luck lol

Styro is in many countries banned from use where it can be exposed to fire and high temperatures, due to the very toxic fumes it gives in those circumstances. Still legal to use embedded in concrete thaough.

Junky

My heat traps went bad and I had to remove them. They will bend if a pipe wrench is used, UNLESS you take a metric bolt just under 7/8 inch and run it down into the nipple, the pipe is now a solid piece of metal, just remove with a regular pipe wrench. Someone commented that heat traps should be used, think about this a nipple is 3/4 of an inch and a flap on a heat trap is 3/8 of an inch, if you want to take a shower with the hot water turned all the way on because it is trying to go through a tiny 3/8 hole go ahead. Ask an inspector if it is okay to run 3/8 pipe for your water heater and he will think you're nuts but that is what you have with a heat trap 3/8 on the cold and 3/8 on the hot

I bought a brand new hot water heater and one of the 2 nipples was cross threaded so I tried to remove it . Never could get it out so I had to return it for another one. I couldn't remove it on a brand new one so how am I ever going to remove a nipple from a 10 year old one?

I am sure that you will find good way to make it on WoodPrix Webpage.

I really liked the bushing Idea, but I didn't like the idea of drilling and having shavings drop into the hotwater tank. I modified the procedure just a little. I purchased 3/4" brass pipecap and threaded it onto the nipple. Then I turned clockwise to tighten the nipple. Eventually, the corrosion broke free and then I was able to turn counter clockwise very easily and remove the brass cap and nipple. I found the hot water side to be more difficult than the cold water side. In Summary: - Put 3/4 FIP Brass Pipe Cap on the nipple. - Continue tightening until the nipple breaks free in the tightening or clockwise rotation. This may require a cheater bar. I needed a breaker bar with a 1 1/8" socket and a three foot piece of black pipe to get enough torque to finally break the corrosion - Turn counter clockwise to remove the brass cap and nipple assembly. ( At this stage the nipple will turn out very easily) - Add new nipples.

You must've found a renter for the Scamp did you have anything else available?

Love it!

awesome product review.. gonna buy this one..

What is a SIP?

Good god, who would do this? The nipples aren't supposed to be removed. You have a brand new water heater with a dent in the side, and you crushed the nipple on the top due to your stupidity. Water heaters don't last more than 10 years anymore, so there is no point to remove a piece that lasts 10 years.

Hello Kevin, my name is Melissa Garrison. I just sent you a viewing request, but wanted to let you know that my husband, John, and I have taken the virtual tour of your charming house, and would like to let you know we are VERY interested! Not only does it have everything we are looking for, but an abundance of charm. We LOVE that it is a classic from the 50's! Naturally you need to know more about us, but a few things I can tell you about us, is that we are both mature, extremely responsible, non-smoking, non partying adults, who would care for your home as if it were our own. We'd love to be your tenants, as well as the caretakers of your delightful home. You can reach me, Melissa, at 303-726-7878 any time of day. I look forward to hearing from you Kevin. Thank you so much for your time, and consideration!

This is one of the most impressive Passive Solar homes I've seen. The quality, the function, the Indoor air quality, THE Natural Open LIGHT! and the style.. I want one. WOW- Total future home.

Pete, this system has no high limit, so the T&P valve is forced to release some water if there is no hot water ever used. In testing, it was about 2 gallons/day. That's not an acceptable control strategy though, because those valves are designed only for emergency water release.

How do you control temperature? And the pex will not split when frozen.......I made a ring, submerged it then sealed it so no air for compression froze and thawed many times that winter outdoors........😀

Most home owners don't have the skills and tools to do this!

If you tighten the nipple BEFORE you remove the pipe above it, the seal will break and you can then remove the nipple without all the pain and agony and #$% words!

You call that a jump?

I bought a brand new hot water heater, installed it and noticed that one of the nipples was cross threaded and leaking. Of course by this time the hardware store I bought it from was closed for the day. I tried like hell to remove the nipple so I could put it back on correctly. Could never get the nipple to move. Ran it long enough to take a show that night. Returned the hot water heater the next day. Check the replacement while still in the parking lot and found the side was smashed in when I opened the box. Did it ever come off or did you just buy a new hot water heater?

They worked out great. They are a year old, but look and operate just like they day they went in. So they are stable.

I'm thinking of making these. How did they turn out?

There's enough air and water vapor available for curing in this assembly. Foam-type adhesives are used in all SIPs. Liquid glue doesn't spread out by itself the way foam does. That said, liquid nails works great in situations like this.

I found out the hard way that Great Stuff will not cure when sealed from air I believe it says so on the can. So my question is how do you know if that great stuff cured or not. Why not use a glue instead?

what a mess

As I was pursuing the idea of the foam rod, I realized that the construction of the collector header makes it impossible to insert.

You're right Jay, that's a good way to do it. I had already crushed it, but that method still may have worked. I should have read Water heater rescue dot com first. Lots of solutions there.

smart.

Thanks, that's a killer idea. I've been aware of that foam rod, but couldn't find anything other than a vague advertisement in a European journal. Transsen was the company promoting it. Energynerdist, Do you have any information on a source? Silicone can survive the potential stagnation temperatures of that header, which I've measured to 420F. The heater hose shown has survived freezing solid as well as dry and wet stagnation.

This Thermosyphon heater must return the warmer water at a higher spot in the tank than it received the supply water. Otherwise effective reverse thermosyphoning won't occur when the collector gets cold. Imagine if the collector supply and return were both at the bottom of the tank. It would heat up OK, but when things get cold, the coldest water would just remain pooled in the collector, and it would eventually freeze. I'm also using

Why is the return hot from the collector running to the top of the tank? wouldn't you want it connected to the bottom to allow the hot water to rise in the tank?

You are right. I had to use a 36" breaker bar. Impact wrenches are a bad substitute for leverage if you have enough room. But I think that tool with the hardened shear pin is a good last resort.

We were able to get it to freeze during zero degrees, but ONLY by covering the collector with a tarp, and ensuring the tank was completely full of fresh cold city water. The thermosiphon effect essentially stops at 39F (when rho dot changes sign). Therefore this design should be restricted to climates where the incoming city or well water never drops below 45-50F. We're on to something here: 1. No antifreeze 2. No heat exchanger 3. No pump, sensors, or controller 4. Std. tank