Video

That sure makes sense to me. For what it's worth, you could try first to clean all oil out of the threads, then use a blue sealant, but frankly, you should get a refund. The problem is that the same cheap junk is sold everywhere under various names. Too bad too. NAPA used to mean quality. Thanks for letting everyone know. Maybe try some high density silicone grease before you disassemble everything? Hope that helps.

Hmmmm. Well, I had one to do and it's a long time ago, but thanks for the suggestion. If I were needing to produce a number of these, I'd have some other much better set up you can be assured.

There's a relay attached to a thermostat. Without that the compressor would run constantly and freeze the compartment. Finally, the compressor would fail.

@@michaelbradford2816 in your video, It shows you wiring black brown together in a circuit with a black lead from the 3 in 1 then you have blue and white tied together with the other black wire from the 3 in 1. The way your video looks your 3 in 1 will have power at all times without any relay to break the circuit? Maybe im missing something but I just ran your video twice and thats what the wiring looks like, I have wired mine the same as you wired yours it works fine fridge stays cold but its always on the compressor is always running. any help would be appreciated. I cant find the line that would would come from the relay that is controlled by the thermostat

Unfortunately, I gave that fridge to someone who needed it, so I can't go back into it. I realized the 3n1 may look confusing along with the funny terminals that come out of the compressor. If it is true that the compressor always runs, that is an artifact of how things are supposed to be. When I worked on the fridge, I only connected things to the point that it worked. Someone had discarded the unit with no hope to repair it. The device as advertised was to replace the starting capacitor primarily but also a relay. Even without that much, there should be a thermostat line that controls on-off cycles. It is possible that 110 is on one side of the circuit always. Please be careful as you delve into this repair because you could get a jolt from it. I would say if it works right now regardless, let it stay that way. The compressor has a thermal shut down built into it, so it won't really burn out. To me you are describing a problem with the thermostat which is quite possible. Check that, but unplug the unit no matter what you are doing. It's actually not safe for other than qualified repair people, if you can get one even to look at it. Because of the cost, many of these are dumped. It could also be that the unit was made so cheaply that the thermostat was either skipped or completely defective and there were no checks done on the assembly line. Sorry to say that too, but it's possible you are trying to correct something that never worked properly or to any expected standards. Be careful.

@@michaelbradford2816 I figured it out. The black cable that you said to unplug and tape up is the 110 power that is controlled by the thermostat. I connected the black line from the 3in1 to that and left the other black line in the neutral side (white wire) and now it turns on and shuts off with the thermostat. For those that are wondering!

Thanks for clarifying that point. Glad it now works.

One thing I did present was the fact that I only used a 90g bullet that I made by hand. Since there's a risk that your item was a black powder only one, the fact also to consider is that NO amount of smokeless powder is safe. That's because the pressure rises too quickly with smokeless. Another thing is wear of the cylinder. It could have been stretched. If any shell fits loosely, it's not for use. You did allude the head space by the way by your description. That could mean either the case is too short or the actual diameter of the chamber is already beyond max. Probably though there is excess clearance between the case head and the frame. I would suspect this. You'd need a set of feeler gauges to be sure. It seems the tolerance should be about .002 there and the gap in front. You'd need to do some research to be sure. Based on your report it seems better to forget loading for that item completely. Most smiths won't touch a revolver like that leaving on your own. Never fire any regular ammo in that for the sake of safety. Thank you for your report today.

@michaelbradford2816 I did forget to mention I dated the item via serial number to the 1950s, so no danger of it being black powder. I appreciate the remaining information. I am also using cut down 38 special cases.... and now I'm rethinking this idea, frankly. If I have a pistol with slightly oversized chambers in addition to already slightly undersized brass.....it could end poorly. I did load VERY conservatively with a milder powder( tite group was recomended on 3 forums for this pistol, and i found published load data from lyman, hornady, etc) to Acceptable effect. I appreciate the added feedback!

Great! You're proceeding in a safe manner. The fun of a gun includes saving an old one if possible, but of course it's not always possible. Have fun.

@michaelbradford2816 safe ish. I'm still taking a bit of you advice, to be safer! Thanks for the input, and I agree.... making the old guns run is just satisfying for some reason!

Thanks. I have that and I agree on the 7018. I really like it. There wasn't enough time to do enough tests for the video. Also, other rods must have DC like the Aluminum rod, so they say.

Thanks for pointing that out. I'll look the next time I get it apart.

Thank you for your comment today.

Thanks.

This is generic and is probably on eBay. The diode box may fit on numerous sinks. This one is nice because it's stacked and takes up little room.

This has come up before, but the kits weren't so good anyway. There's liability in such things. Cables fail too along with the springs. I saw a design once that incorporated long leaf springs under the bed. As the gate came down the springs took most of the load out. It required just a flip to go back to vertical, but it wasn't offered as a kit. Another design had pressure cylinders like shock absorbers to do the same function as springs offered as add-on parts. Not sure as to the status now on those. It's a good question and one I'd like to experiment with. I'd say you're on your own. I'd think that a fluid powered system would be good, battery powered. That's the place to start designing, as for the front of a skip loader. That's probably too costly, however. I've seen those smaller cylinders for sale before. Just an idea.

You didn't bother seeing the crankshaft returned from Oklahoma in excellent condition. Have a look. It came out beautifully.

You do good work, you just didnt mension that the crank was magnafluxed.@@michaelbradford2816

I didn't notice any of your qualifications to make such a statement, but I assume you have none. You didn't bother with most of the other videos produced for this either. You couldn't have. You're alone in your outlook too. Since it bothered you so much, please stay away from anything mechanical as you have no hope to deal with that and you have nothing useful to contribute to anyone.

Camera angles can give false impressions. Did you have anything else to add? Seems like there's no reference to go with your comment. Just wondering. Maybe it's just a bad day? Anyway, the data that came back from Oklahoma confirmed virtually no run out and the crank shaft was reground to only M03, in case you missed that point. Not too bad for an over $8k part that a dope told me was worthless. Maybe you'd like to try your mechanical aptitudes along that line? Or maybe you'd like to take about a $25k engine apart in front of everyone and show us how you set things to zero? Be sure to send me the link whenever you get around to it.

I have the service manual. So far, so good despite being an amateur. I didn't get any A&P. However, I'm still on course and nothing was damaged so far. I'm willing to try anything. You?

Thanks for your comments today. The US military is still selling enormous amounts of brass that was Berdan primed. It appears that the prices of ammo will continue upwards and I'm sure you know about the cost of primers being almost as expensive as the whole round once was. So, any/all alternatives have to be explored. I found a curious YT video regarding the shimming of the primer pocket with copper tubing. I have not yet attempted that, but it too is something to delve into. I agree with you that we should not be in the situation of having to use less than very good brass. No one asked for this. It's just the whole world economy doing it. I'd like to see more custom brass take off and I believe the key could be Mexico. If affordable brass could be had, there'd be a ready market for it. In lieu of that, more experimentation is needed. I think it's possible to weld a brass sleeve into the opening too. Another option is to finally get a replacement primer that's .213 instead of .209. It seems to me that from a manufacturing standpoint it's doable.

Another reason to convert Berdan brass is if you shoot something for which Boxer ammunition is hard (or impossible) to find and there's no ready conversion from another case -- or, as noted, where Boxer primed civilian cases are several times the cost of Berdan primed loaded surplus ammunition. I agree, there can be issues with primer diameter -- I shoot 7.62x54R and all the Soviet-made surplus ammunition I have has .254 (~6.4 mm) diameter Berdan primers -- that's significantly bigger than the .210 (~5.4 mm) for large Boxer primers. As noted, there are methods of swaging in a shim ring to make up the diameter difference, or one could add a step to drill off the base of the primer cup before punching the central flash hole in the case; the outer ring of the Berdan cup (I've read) is the correct size to fit Boxer primers. Once you have a correctly fitting primer, gas leakage around the primer should be nil -- so no damage to your bolt face, no primers falling out after firing, pressure signs will read normally, etc.

It requires a strong rod, preferably about 7mm diameter to center correctly. Centering is the key. After I made the video that included the mistakes, I hit upon using a 7mm 316 stainless rod. Far better and a one shot operation. Titanium would work too. In the video I used spring steel landing gear wire. I had a piece of quarter inch rod that I did not demonstrate. In lieu of 7mm, .250 rod will center better and shouldn't bend. The blow has to be dead center to work. That's the trick. Drilling is not without its problems too.

Those came from Autozone which has been a good place for most parts. I don't blame any retailer. It's back on the unnamed entities that process parts like this FAST. I don't see going to a custom parts house at over double the price to get ordinary replacement parts with paint on them. I'm thinking that beyond blowing out the part that maybe it would be good to run fluid through them to see if anything drains out? Next time I'll do that. Also, it's best to disconnect the brake line before separating the calipers so that no junk is forced back into the line where it could migrate to the brake pressure distribution unit or even the master cylinder. Kind of a stretch, but I've read that it's possible. Thanks for your comments today and good luck on your repairs.

@michaelbradford2816 I saw those at the autozone. But I decided to get a standard nipple and apply some high temperature thread sealiant available at the part store. I've had great success using that on plumbing. And these products also allow for quite a working time and still will set and provide a good seal. Up to 60 minutes.. Thanks for the reply. I'm glad to know other people are struggling through some of the simplest of repairs due to faulty manufacturing...

The caliper itself would be just fine if the final bit of quality control or final inspection occurred. That's not there obviously. Good on the sealant, whatever works best for you. As such, I steer clear of the low priced tool outlets on those items as I have had some of those backfire, especially the fast epoxy. Thread sealants need to be removable, so the BLUE range is good provided it is made to high standards. The only way I get that is by purchasing the higher priced glues. The hole threads need to be clean and free of any fluid first.

I agree at this point. I couldn't find any damage and the crankshaft came back needing only M03 correction and virtually no eccentric deviation. I was told it was toast. However, the case was another unknown and with the time on the engine as it was, I was steered away from a prop strike inspection. I talked to a number of different mechanics regarding this and all said they never simply do a prop strike inspection, but send the engine in for rework. I believe that's a CYA maneuver plus they get a commission for doing that. So, getting to the TRUTH is the problem. People in the industry control the TRUTH and therefore the costs along with the standard operating procedures. I don't like it one bit. So, that's the reason for the video. As far as I can tell, only the most costly ways of doing things will be chosen by any given shop. It's a safe default for them and many of them don't even need your business at all. If you can cut through that, I'd say wonderful. I've spent a lot of time trying to do that. At this point I'll have to deliver all the certified parts to a rebuilder and hope for the best, when I can afford it.

Good info and is confirmed elsewhere on YT too. Thanks for your comments today.

Possibly. Although a high quality piece of equipment has polarity protection included. It should because it's too easy to make a polarity mistake. Sometimes luck chimes in with a burned PC path, a blown diode or a damaged relay that ended up protecting everything else by a shear bit of luck. You may be able to see damage like that if you dare to take the panel off to look. Shops want $500 just to look.

You're welcome.

For you yes.

Never had a gun that was expensive to feed or just plain hard to get brass for, huh?

horsetraileraccessorystore.com They don't know me. Maybe they should?

Or go to Titanium without any heat treating, but grind to the point demonstrated in the video. Or stainless steel, 316 or better, in 7mm rod that will be self centering for many calibers. Again, no heat treating required. 7mm fits a number of calibers, but mainly, the 308 would be the one most needed. Thanks for your input today.

I suggested drill rod for two reasons, one it’s relatively cheap, and the process I described requires only limited tools that most people involved in reloading have. Namely a drill, doesn’t even have to be a drill press, some sandpaper, a propane torch, a pair of pliers, and a can of veggie oil. Its a great way for people to get their feet wet with heat treating

Sure. The problem is that they won't get that correct. My rod bent because I could not center it very well. Had I used the 1/4" landing gear wire, it would have since .250" is a lot closer to .30 cal. Landing gear wire is cheap and grinds very well. I've since updated the way I do the operation and it's really simple. Thanks for your suggestion.

Convert berdan to boxer

You'll find such an approach on YT. However, it's more set up and as much trouble. With steel cases there is no choice except to drill, preferably from the inside with a piloted drill. My method is even better when the rod is very close to the mouth size, say 7mm, since it's self centering. There are other problems to be sure. As far as "just swaging the Berdan bushing," I'm not as sure on that. For steel, it is possible to spot weld a precut bushing into place, doing it with one electrode inside the case. Or, it's possible to use copper tubing to set a bushing then remove its excess rim. That's also on YT. Beyond those suggests, it is still possible to swage the head with a special die similar to a small base die for auto feeding rifles, marked SB. That's another experiment, but one I believe would work. I may demo that in the future when I'm more sure it's valid. Thanks for your comment today and please follow all established safety precautions anytime you are working with tools, including the use of safety glasses.

Enough others have done similar things. It's not really experimental any more. All of it's on YT working very well.

Sorry to hear that. The Berdan depriming requires more punch than an ordinary pin can deliver. A steel rod ground to the correct point works well, but you'd need more than just any steel. It should be large enough to be self centering in the neck. The primer will then come out. The next problem is to replace the primer which may be difficult. Other videos show more about that. Good luck and thanks for your comment.

It worked out well. Try it and see for yourself.

@@michaelbradford2816 That’s ok. I’ve got lots of berdan primers on hand and been reloading berdan brass for years.

Say, you can do it!

Thank you. More are coming.

Great hearing from you and thanks for watching. I had a lot of fun making this one. More are on the way too.

You have choices. You may reload the existing primer. There's a YT video for that, but you'd need to supply the anvils. Actually, you'd insert the new primer into the old shell after taking out the dent. You may choose to reshape the primer pocket further as in squeezing it in special press. You could use super glue fortified with some filler around a new boxer primer. I'm sill experimenting. I call all of it an experiment.

No es pegamento. Es compuesto termico necesario para el enfriamiento del rectificador. Salsa secreta.

You may also use Titanium rod, about 7mm tapered on the end which makes a self centering tool. You saw me have to fumble a little bit in the video and miss the dead center. In the end, I got it to work well. The brass had off-centered Berdan holes anyway. Flash hole size needs to remain 5/64".

Excellent, thank you sir.@@michaelbradford2816

This will be going to a rebuilder and I wanted it as close as possible to how disassembled WITH the pistons matching the cylinders because I don't want them sent out again necessarily. That's a point you overlooked in the video? How much did you see? Got the point of only 12 hours on the whole engine after a top overhaul? Everything was as new or recently sent out.

Like you, I tried everything. The previous owner blamed cold temperatures on the problem. I got really sick of it one day when I found that to send it out would either cost $500 for a trade up to the same reconditioned unit or another $1k for outright purchase of an old radio. So, that's when I pulled it. The panel comes off very easily and be sure only to do the work over a bench. Have a magnet ready, but you may find the screws to be aluminum. You need all of them. Gently pull the full display free from the board. It's not connected in any way at all. However, the conducting parts that look like thin rubber pads are still inserted into that plastic baffle. Don't remove them. Use a non solvent cleaning solution on the bottom of the pads and the top of the printed circuit board. Unfortunately, I did not film that part, but it's easy. There's no need to open the radio cover, so don't. Carefully re-install everything. It does help to do a bench test, but you'll need a tray and connector. Use a dummy load too, just in case. Figure you earned $500 for about thirty minutes of work. All of the parts are replaceable. It's unlikely the display itself is bad, but that's what you'll be told. This radio is non navigational, so you can't get into any trouble. Ensure it seats properly in the tray once you re-install it. It probably will never act up again. I think it's moisture related, but that takes years to cause a problem. They want over $1500 for anything like it that has the 8130. The display never was high quality. The radio itself is. By the way, you can replace it outright with IC1200, much cheaper and better, but you don't need to. Fortunately, the plug/tray layout fits other radios like Panasonic too.

I got the number wrong. I meant IC-A220 which if installed needs an wire cut to avoid problems with the Garmin intercoms, but the A200 is a direct plug in replacement. Also, for docking MB-53 is available right now for cheap on e bay, only a few bucks. Nice to know, but again, it's not the same as having an avionics endorsement, just way cheaper. The KYxxx's are costly and out of date now.

@@michaelbradford2816 yeah, ideally I will replace the KY97A with a GNC355 in the next couple years but I’m excited to try this for now.

I finally got around to doing this job and it worked! My display has never worked better! Just wanted to follow up and say thanks again

He does say anvil

Good question. This machine has a center tap coil secondary that is used for the low range. I connected to the low range for DC. Actually, I was a bit surprised to find that the open circuit voltage was 78 VDC after the conversion, but then the full wave bridge added some volts. You could simulate the same effect with a massive switch to move the wires between the rectifier and the straight AC. In other words, an AC/DC switch. Or without a switch it would still work either way. I don't believe I'll be making another video on this other than to add a smoothing choke to the DC side that will remove most ripples from the power. Don't know when that will be. Thanks for your question today and please approach this sort of project with plenty of caution.

The length is about six inches and will fit a 3/4" bolt. I'm unsure of the exact loading for distortion, but it must be fairly high. I'd estimate at least 300 lbs. These don't fail. Severe cooling could be not so good, however. That's when springs are the most challenged.