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Seems pretty common for fresh tanks not to have much support. You could always run a piece of C channel or whatever between the two main I beams, under the corplast.

Where did you buy your new fabric? Thanks.

These AC’s are hard to get working correctly when they start blowing warm air. There are several things that can happen to them. The first thing I would do is buy a piece of heater hose and bypass your heater core where it comes off the water pump. Don’t block it, bypass it. I do this every summer, takes about 5 minutes. I leave the stock hoses disconnected under the hood. Another thing that happens is there is a malfunction in the blender door. The actuator is super easy to change, but before I would replace it, i would pull it out and test it to see if it turns with the blender control. I have a piece off an old actuator that I use to make sure the blender door swings freely. This got mine to the point that the cabin is tolerable on a hot summer day in the South, but not as good as it used to be. I notice with mine that the compressor never cycles off. When I put gauges on it, the high side pressure is low, so I am suspecting the compressor, but it could be something else like the orifice. All I can say is good luck. If the heater hose trick works good enough, I would be happy with that result unless you want to really dig into it. 😅

Yes should be checked during services broke mines today and sent the outboard for a swim good thing the harness somehow kept it from sinking

Lack of routine maintenance! Your heads will look the same too

Thanks for sharing. at 4:13 that freaked me out when you were talking and yet the hand in the video had a nice big wedding ring and beautiful fingernails with flowers on them, lol..... I quickly realized it was your wife's hand, lol..... Good video, Thanks

Big old crack in your upper pivot mount

Did you use the energy suspension kit, or daystars? Or something else?

I’ve got the same 175 but 98 model. No wood in the transom! 90 Hp spl. Seems the port bank always runs a little warmer than starboard. I’ve got that daisy chain going on with my switches on the center console and had to by pass directly to battery. I’d like to find OEM. Any sources?

Where’d you get that boat cover?

Unfortunately, unless I’m mistaken, this won’t work on a 6.0. I watched this a few days ago, and tried this yesterday. Took off wheel well liner, blower, brackets, etc, and all 10 screws holding the cover on the box. Unfortunately, the valve cover on the 6.0 is too close to the box. No room to wiggle it off the bottom of the evaporator, even if the trans dipstick tube and intercooler pipe are removed. Evap and dryer would have to be removed and the evaporator pulled out along with the cover. But, I did what you recommended with compressed air and a vacuum, as much as I could through the blower hole. Does feel it blows stronger and a little cooler. Without this video, I probably wouldn’t have tried it. Thanks!

I'd definitely start with fine tuning the ignition and fuel timing after going through the carbs. That extra heat could be from being lean too

Do you know if a fuel pump can make the engine guzzle gas? Like an ounce every 5 mins or so. It's flooding the spark spugs and smoking like crazy. Does this motor have an O2 sensor? We are lost and have a similar motor to yours same year too. Thanks

flush out motor with clean water and muffs after each use

This video was very helpful very informative

Nice video. Thanks for information and pre-view of the steps.

Both my uppers failed, I just took the catch off the body of the truck, works perfect!!

Thermostats in saltwater crust up. Pour boiling water into the housing from one of the hoses, and those stats will pop open. If you run it once a week they work all season. But every spring they will get stuck and the engine will over heat until u get them to pop the crust off.

I just had the same issue a week ago, had oil all over it, took it out sprayed it with brake cleaner including the plug put it back in worked fine..

Great video! Just wanted to comment on an observation. Your engine is running extremely lean. That hesitation, or sneeze, you hear at idle is a lean sneeze. This is usually due to a dirty carb. Running like that for a while can cause you lose a cylinder because if its running lean on fuel, its also running lean on oil. Just something to look into. Keep up the good work!

How did you get the part?Local shop? I know ordering from HF takes months which is annoying as heck.

So explain the Crack? No component issue

at the end, how did you fix the misalignment issue?

Aaron thanks for this video

5:22 you shot that guy in the d!(k like 5 times lol

I’m doing this Right now. Waiting for wheel to come in

You should never stack flammable items in front of a circuit breaker box.

Hopefully the buzz hasn't comeback again... Wonder if Siemens still honors that warranty, since they own the ITE/Gould and Murray brands... Got a QO Panel with a few potential different "buzzers"... Square D also Warranties thier QO Breakers, If they do offer replacements might be nice since I currently just have one Spare replacement if both "Buzzers" are bad. Free is nice. Then again they'll probably want shipping or some handling fee

for the love of God, please replace the cable. I don't understand doing all that work, just to do it half ass.

Pretty sure i have exactly the same truck. How you like the ride? Is the noise obnoxious?

This is a top notch video, EXACTLY I was looking for. Thank you so much for taking the time stranger

What’s the part number?? You order it on Amazon?

Nice work, but that gasket you left behind should to on with the diaphragm. Look at your old one in the video and you can see it has a gasket with the diaphragm.

How’d you remove the back rest on seat?

the deflectors would only make it overheat at HIGH speed, not low. these t stat housings suffer from an air pocket that makes it so the t stat/s never open. we modify them by cutting a small notch in both, but you need to understand how this cooling system works. the STB head does NOT get its water 1st. they both do. usually the stb head is warmer since its higher up. by allowing much more flow, you are essentially negating the t stats at low speed, giving you a false reading. when taking the head temp, its done on the flat spot on TOP of each head, not in the middle or wherever. because the motor keeps stalling and occasionally sneezes, i'd make sure the carbs are really clean as well. what happens when you hit the primer does it pick up rpm?

Good job friend!

Aluminum oxide is the white stuff

What was the end result? Water test . Did it still overheat?

Do you know a part number(or name) for the yellow clip @6:42 or where to order them. Had same problem as ou but I broke the yellow clip and can not find one around where I live.

Is your wife ok?

What happens if your spring comes unwound? How can one fix that? That’s what happened to me. I have no idea how to repair the awning now.

What screws did you use to replace the rivets?

I would have replaced the Evaporator, accumulator and Orifice tube.

140 is about right. When you get over 160 you have problems.

Do you hear a hissing sound from the AC components under the hood when you turn off your truck?

OK, a few things to think about here. First, both of those thermostats were blown open, NG. Unless you cleaned them up and they somehow seated again. This cooling system is very fussy, with two thermostats and pressure relief valves. Were you running it with the hoses off, or on the thermostat hsg? Looked like they were off. It is very common for these engines to run hot on one side when running on a flushette, but you are running it in a bucket. The plastic relief valves have to move freely in those grommets as well, although yours seemed free in there. Those rubber cooling deflectors have to be pushed all the way in, cutting them off to fit will allow water to bypass and possibly overheat. But, the engine misbehaved before you had the head off. Did you get that new head gasket on correctly, couldn't really see, it only works properly when oriented with that tab on top, pointing outward. There is an arrow on the raised tab helping with orientation as well. I guess at this point, I would assemble the whole thing properly and try it again. You want the engine to get good and warm at low speeds so it will idle nicely, minimize smoke, and keep the plugs fairly clean. Once you raise the throttle, the added water pressure opens those relief valves allowing the engine to cool down a bit at higher RPM. The next step would be to start at the beginning, with the water pump. This is a complicated and fussy cooling system, not easy to work on those thermostats as well! But, everything must be right or the engine might overheat at low speeds on one bank or the other. Running the engine with those cooling hoses off might allow water to "short circuit" as well. Forgive me if I am repeating myself or advising things you have already done. I just don't want you fixing something that may not be broken, or making inaccurate conclusions. That crust in the water cover is pretty normal for salt water use, and rarely is an issue. That little scoring is normal for these engines as well.

TOTAL GARBAGE TAKE IT BACK TO FORD LET THEM FIX IT FREE OF CHARGE ALL THESE CAR COMPANY SHOULD BE ASHAMED OF HIMSELF FOR SELLING THIS GARBAGE THAT RUST OUT IN FRONT OF YOUR EYES AND SIMPLE THINGS BREAKING LIKE F*** THEM

I would of actually replaced it with a new cable assembly/hardware, either way it still was a great repair, 👌😁👍

do you rinse the engine out with fresh water after you use the engine in salt water?

yes i had one break it threw wife out from left of boat all was well scary and lucky as hell