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😊 thank you. Sorry I do not do installs.

The black adapter is only used when you are pluggin into the 240V. This converts the voltage to 19V for the TV so no you dont need it unless you want to bring the TV indoors some times. I cut of the lead from the black adapter and use this from the dc dc converter

Thank you Jen, yes is was a great trip and Niamh was very brake to jump in the sea. You would not catch me doing that, must have been about 5 deg. 😊

I agree. We was not complaining only stating a fact. It was a lovely room. As I said in the vlog we have no complaints with p&o. We use them for most of our cruises and think they are great value for money. Thanks for watching and good luck with your future cruising

Hi. I have lithium as they give 100% of there capacity and charge at a higher rate. The TV will pull about 3A so for 3 hours this will be 9aH. Take into account lighting maybe 3A and water pump. Then add anything else you may use. If the 110aH battery you have was at 100% charge then you have about 50aH of use. But without a battery shunt how would you know the charge state of the battery.

@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures that's probs enough hours in the evening anyways it's only occasionally that it will be on the 12v most the time will be on sites with EHU the van has a split charge relay system now was thinking of putting a 100amp solar setup aswell

Hi @RichieKeane if the TV has an external power unit which converts the AC inout into a DC output then it should easily run on a DC DC converter. Find out what the DC output of the TV is and then get a DC DC converter which has a larger wattage than the TV runs on. You will need to use the original TV plug input cable and make sure you have the polarity correct.

@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures That's what I'd hoped...

Not sure what the E87 code is. Elements are normally 5 to 30 ohms. If they fail they normally fail open circuit (high resistance) your meter on bleep may not work at 80+ ohms. Is the fuse OK. It's difficult to say what to test next due to your electrical experience which I do not know. I would check resistance between element and out shell should be high. Then all connecting for security. Then I would liven it up and see if you have 240v at different point. Input. Fuse elements etc. But be warned this is lethal voltage at this point

@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures well I much appreciate your reply, the E87h code relates to voltage issues, that’s all the Truma info you get🙄..yes fuse is fine, I’ve just tested again and it’s reading 99 ohms so that seems very high compared to the 5-30 you refer to. My electrical experience is Ltd to be fair, but thanks for the guidance, I doubt I’ll go down that road, it’s irritating because the boiler runs fine fine for ages -6hours yesterday…the bam…error code, I’m going to purchase a new boiler, if I choose to repair it, it could cost a lot and it’s still 6 years old..not old at all but I need a reliable boiler.

Hi, I have not got the van anymore we have changed to an Auto Trail but I can say we could have added an extra panel at the rear and if they where all 120 watts this would be a total of 480W. To be honest the 300 watts we had with Lithium could run for weeks no issues even in the winter months

This is definitely one of the good sites with the woods access. You can get right over to Ringwood and the top part of the New Forest from there

Very much agree, its great for kids, dogs and old men like me :). Easy walk to the pub off road

Thanks for watching

Thanks for the comment and watching

I believe my one was an EBL 208, I do not have the van now so cannot check. This is different to the EBL119 but mainly only the connections, you can see the circuit for the EVL 119 in the link below. I would disconnect the vehicle battery connection and if this stops the leisure charging and everything else works OK then you can do a similar setup. content.invisioncic.com/a321943/monthly_2020_03/EBL99.JPG.36411ecb32ffca91dc009f3e00a7db7e.JPG

Thanks for the comments, glade you got yours all sorted

Glad you enjoyed it, hope you have a great trip. We are off on Iona soom to the fjords and like you excited to be going again

Haha yes, I probably pronounced that wrong, I'm always being pulled up by Loretta for doing that 😊. We sold the Adria and decided to clear all our debt to be debt free then decide on our next van. We loved the Adria for its drivability, looks great out and about, stealth parking etc, but like you said the compromise on space was a lot and the price tag along with it. They are overpriced as the demand is high not because they are a better build van. Anyway, hoping to get back out there traveling and getting into Europe again next year. Safe travels thanks for watching and the comment.

We got back from Wallingford a week ago I will updated this in the description

Informative vlog. One of our favourite sites is just opposite The Bell, only £18pn including ehu! Not much facilities, though. We do recommend the Old Post Office, lovely pizzas, oh and The Keep in Wallingford, oh and The Cross Keys - we're back for a music festival there in a few months. Too, all the vlogs are on our channel, intact there's a playlist of all the Crowmarsh Gifford trips if you're interested.

Thank you it was a good site and area

Thanks glade to know this Vlog is still helping out. I have just made a new vlog on this for my new van. Much cheaper than the 12v camping TV's :)

Supprising no there was not. We did the royal carabian last May which had 900 children onboard. I expect this is not that attractive for families being Feb half term

Thank you, that's really helpful.

Hi, the water levels as far as I know are not controller by the EBL. If you are getting LED indication for the battery and control of the pump etc then it would seem the connection from the EBL to the control panel is all ok. The LED indication on the water side will take power from the EBL but if the battery indication is working then this power supply will be OK. I would look more towards the water sensor in the tank, maybe this is not working, either stuck, loose connection or defective. Try posting on the facebook group as I know some people had issues with the water sensor

Hi, if you mean the seating boxes, we actually bought them from Amazon. They are called Nyxi Ottoman. link below. www.amazon.co.uk/Nyxi-Ottoman-Foldable-Storage-Bedroom/dp/B085DRDSKW/ref=asc_df_B085DRDSKW/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=430805529020&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5594364719633446773&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-907389775160&mcid=a3fbade744b73249b7c94e047ed0964d&ref=&adgrpid=103002100027&th=1

I believe you can do this, been some time since I looked into this. If you go on the Adria twin Facebook page some people on there have done this. We liked it by the bed so we could turn on the heating when we get up in the morning

Thanks for watching! hope you get it working over in Canada

Hi, I will get back to you with a better explanation in a few days when I am back to work, but for now I will explain from memory some of this. The pins to the display you are looking at are small pins making up a plug to the control panel. None of these are battery connections only display power and monitoring connection. The pins for battery control are large pins to the left of the EBL. It has two 6mm (from memory) that connect to the starter battery, another two 6mm to leisure battery and two negative cables. The two cable to pins 3 and 4 I believe (I will check this later) they are the vehicle batteries connections, they both go to the vans pillar drivers side where there is a 30A fuse. These are paralleled cables to reduce voltage drop

I do not believe it will be as it has out put isolating transformers for protection

It would be possible if you could get a 10A with surge protection on it. alternative would be to relocate the fuse into a fuse holder wich can be eaily accessed from out side and use same fuses as they are not to expensive

This is a good idea, fitting a remote fuse. Mine went again at the end of last season, just changing it again now (although I think it was definitely my fault, I have an EV and charged it from inside the caravan, as per site rules, need to lower the charge rate next time - I've been told that the fuse blows on busy campsites when there's a large number of people using hookups - amps rise, voltage lowers (or the other way around) and pops the fuse, same as plugging an EV in.

@@stuff7442 If the supply voltage decreases due to demand and voltage drop, then the current may increase if the wattage stays the same. However, this will only occur if the supply can accommodate the increased demand. For example, a 250V 1000 Watt device will draw 4 Amps, whereas the same device operating at 200V will draw 5 Amps. If your circuit breaker is tripping or the fuse is blowing regularly, such as once a year, there may be an issue with your PCB board or its components. The PCB board typically includes a surge protection resistor to limit the current during startup, as the elements have low resistance until they heat up. If this resistor is failing, the fuse will blow. Similarly, the elements themselves are serviceable parts that degrade over time, resulting in increased current draw during startup, leading to blown fuses. If you're experiencing frequent tripping, it's advisable to consider replacing the elements to err on the side of safety.

Hi, if you have the same van and EBL as I had then the supply from the started battery comeing into the EBL on pins 3 and 4. on the front of the EBL. There should also be a 30A fuse within the driver side seat belt pillar

Which EBL do you have, I have EBL30 and want to stop engine charging of Lithium.@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures

@@GaryATC I have the EBL 214 I belive but I expect they both have the same connections, The large cables to the left of the EDL pins 1 to 6 are all the battery connections. I will have a look in the week and see if I can find a schmatic for the EDL 30

Have you checked all the connection for any loose one. someone had similar a year ago. Also if you have a meater can you check the voltage coming out the converter. Another thing to check that the polarity is the same as the original TV supply.

another thing the 3 amp converter may not be powerfull enough to turn on a 24" TV. Does the red light come on but no screen powering up. If no connection issues you may need a 5A converter. If you put a voltmeter on the converter output whist connected to the TV you may see the voltage drop off as you turn in the TV indicating the converter is not power full enough

​@@BrackstonesTravelAdventuresThaks for replies..checked connections and they're OK swapped converters also as I bought 2. Light on tv doesn't come on at all. Power from supply is OK, I don't have a tester. Do you think I need a 5A 95w?

Its possible, When I did my TV the smaller 3A converters would not power them up or would try to turn on then shut down again. Most larger TV with smart systems use a lot more power

@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures OK will give it a go and post result

Sorry the van come with the rails fitted, you would have to get something like the thule roof rails to att this like this.

I'm sure you will love it great ship our favourite and great food with good entertainment cant ask for more other than a little sun😊

thanks for the comment, we will be looking forward to going on QM2 one year

If you mean 24V battery to the 19V tv then any DC converter from 24V to 19V will work like this link carlightbulb.com/products/waterproof-24v-to-19v-10a-190w-step-down-dc-dc-power-converter-regulator?currency=GBP&variant=42881950875810&Google%20Shopping&stkn=d7752ef57dbc&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu6m1MstBOs6awgtc0XKWBe2KzmTZSj_6j7s4gbb9m0ruofgrdG3uYgaAroREALw_wcB

Thank you. It was a great cruise. we are looking forward to do it all again next year hopefully