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Turquoise. 00:19 benfordguitars.com/thinline-scv2-2.html

Do you think i could get more of an actual teal/turquoise rather than light blue by mixing it with some green and neutral? Maybe add 20 percent green dye and 20 percent neutral.

@@anthonyallard3156 The Angelus Turquoise is really more turquoise than blue. Its hard to capture its true color. But if you want it more turquoise add yellow. Remember the old saying, yellow and blue make green? If you were going to add green I'd add the Angelous Jade green. Test everything on scrap first. do 2-4 coats of straight turquoise. Next to that do the same amount of coats with what mixture to come up with. You have to really measure out your mixture amounts so you can scale it up for the real thing. Remember it drys lighter then gets darker with finish. You never really know what your going to get till the finish stage. Good luck

@@benfordguitars Thanks for the reply, that does make sense, I actually thought about that shortly after posting this. I have some yellow I can try. Don't have the guitar yet though waiting on that to be delievered.

It really depends on the wood type. For thinner wood like 1/8" I'll wet the wood and heat bend it over a hot pipe. I'll clamp in place while still wet and let it dry. The key is to not have a really extreme bend. A nice soft curve will allow you to bend it more. I just did a Zircote top which is very hard and dense. I bent it at least 3/8 with the technique above.

Yes. Those plates are just for retrofitting on a existing guitar. Ive installed these on vintage Gibsons using the plates. No extra holes so the mod is totally reversible. My method is a little different now than in this video. I did make a jig similar to what you suggested. Its a dowel that goes down in to the tuning machine hole. It uses spare plates from the set.. I have one I use for my custom guitars as the spacing is the same. It doesnt work on anything else, so I made a single jig.

Yes I have a couple concerns. If you apply a sealer to the wood, how will the dye penetrate? It won't. Change your order up a bit. Dye/Shellac SPRAY sealer/Grain fill/Poly. If you use a wipe on shellac over straight dye, the dye will reactivate and smear all over. It will reactivate with the spray too, but you reduce the risk of it turning blotchy. You need to build up enough barrier coats before you move to your wipe on poly. Spray poly would be better. Spray shellac from Bullseye is what I use. Multiple Thin LIGHT coats is the way to go. A heavy coat will make the dye run. Do 4-5 light coats. LIGHTLY sand with 400. Look for any evidence of color in your sanding dust. If you see any apply 3-4 more coats. LIGHTLY sand again looking for any color. If you see none your ready for your next step. Before applying the sealer check over the body carefully for scratches you missed. They will be amplified by the dye. Now is the time to correct those. If you want a perfectly smooth flat finish you'll have to grain fill. I always skip grain fill as I like a more organic open pore look. I'm going to be doing a Double Cut in ash dyed orange shortly. My process will be Dye/ Spray shellac to seal and build coats. Level sand to about 600, hit it with 0000 steel wool then buff to a satin finish. Hope this helps! GOOD LUCK!

It depends what kind of wood your dying and whether or not your doing a whole guitar. 1 3oz should be more than enough in most cases. Use a very small rag. A larger rag will soak up more dye and waste it. For the guitar in this video I Ihink I used around 25% of a 3oz bottle. Make sure the guitar is sanded perfectly as the dye will enhance every scratch. Good luck!

@@benfordguitars i am using an alder body for my work and yes i want to cover the whole guitar body front and back . hopefully it will be enough?and thank you for such a fast and amazing response! subscribed !!

@@syamakhalder4646 Alder is a softer wood and will soak up a little more dye. 3oz should still be enough. The side of the body by the strap pin is end grain and will soak up a a lot of finish. Sand up to 320 grit. The end grain shows a ton of scratches. I spend more time there than the rest of the body. Also keep in mind that Alder is a little darker and browner wood that the Maple top in this video. The color will not be as vibrant. Wear gloves unless you what colored fingers for 2+ weeks.

@@benfordguitars and just a last question if i am not taking much of your time. should i clear coat with a spray paint after i dye the wood?or leave it as it is? i want a matt or satin finish basically..thanks for the help

@@syamakhalder4646 Yes, you have to seal the dye. If you don't your sweat will rub it off. I seal with spray shellac. Lots of thin cots with drying time in between. Shellac or lacquer will re activate the dye. Thats why you do lots of light coats to slowly seal it. From there you can spray lacquer or whatever over the shellac.

No, thats way to thick. The fretboard is only 1/4" thick. 3/32-1/8" Sometimes thinner. It depends on how wide your inlay is and the fretboard radius. So it will vary from guitar to guitar.

The router attachment is from Stewart Mcdonald. The base that comes with it is metal. I made the one shown in the video as it has a wider footprint.

certainlywood.com is my go to source.

I will fine sand after a few dye coats if the grain in the wood get raised. I would use 600 LIGHTLY. I fine sand with 400 after 3-5 coats of Shellac depending on if it raised the gain as well. Depending on if its getting a lacquer cleat coat will determine how many Shellac coats I use. If im doing Shellac only then it gets about 10. Level sanded, rubbed down with 0000 steel wool, then buffed with a t-shirt to a satin shine. I never wet sand shellac as I dont go for gloass finishes anymore

@@benfordguitars thank you

@@lenoechsner28 benfordguitars.com/anthonygsc.html

Angelus Red over Figured Maple. benfordguitars.com/walnutmaples.html Red over ASH benfordguitars.com/justinrt.html Theres video of me doing the intial dying of the Ash body. Good luck.

Good question. Its MIA!!!! I will search and possibly re upload.

@@benfordguitars plz.....This is awesome.

@@benfordguitars i would definitely like to see the rest of this build.

Unfortunately its not going to happen. The final episode files are gone. Heres the final completed guitar. benfordguitars.com/babyt.html

@@benfordguitars The great documentary legacy of instuments is gone forever? I'm so sad..

Angelus leather dye is oil based.

@@benfordguitars wood stain or wood dye or leather dye or leather paint?which one is better?

@@upside-down6211 Do not use leather paint. Like all paint it just sits on the surface of the wood. I use leather dye because of the colors available and its premixed. The downside is the dye can reactivate and bleed which you apply a sealer coat such as shellac or lacquer. Multiple light SPRAY (not rubbed) coats will seal it. Water or alcohol based do not have this issue. But, for me, mixing up a color and getting the color to water ratio correct is something im not great at. The concentrate dyes like Transtint are good for mixing in lacquer if your going to spray a trans color or do a sunburst. Although on the rare occasion I do a burst i use the Angelus and hand blend it.

Yes, the install is exactly the same. You would need to buy left handed tuners otherwise the tuner will move in opposite direction when tuning.

@@benfordguitars alright thank you

Thanks! Get one. They are currently on sale. They are super fun to play.

YES! Other things took over. I'll have part 3 and more up shortly!

Thanks! Would be great to have you pro-shoot something instead of using my phone!

Thanks for watching!

Yes. It looks blue in the video but its Turquoise. benfordguitars.com/anthonygsc.html

@@benfordguitars Hi, Is It just "Turquoise" or "Blue Turquoise"?

@@marcopotenza881 Its Angelus Turquoise. It looks very blue in the video. It definitely Turquoise. benfordguitars.com/anthonygsc.html The pic all the way at the bottom of the page is pretty good representation of the color.

Body was sanded to 320. I ran a rag with Naptha over it to clean any dust and grease.

Grain filler is only used on open pore woods like, Ash, Walnut, and Mahogany. No grain filler is needed for Maple, Alder, Cherry etc. Grain filler is only needed if your going to do a gloss finish.

@@benfordguitars Thanks so much for the info. Great looking guitar body, by the way. Hope to see the finished product sometime.

@@getenlightened Anytime. Heres the guitar. benfordguitars.com/anthonygsc.html

I'll seal the body with shellac. Use VERY light coats as it will re activate the dye.I dont do gloss lacquer finishes anymore, so I end up using 7-10 coats. Shellac raises the wood grain so you'll need to apply several coats before lightly level sanding with 400. If you see dye color in you sanding dust you need more coats.

@@benfordguitars Brilliant..........thank you

Rob. You can use an old t-shirt. Dont use paper towel as it will little fuzzys. Angelous dyes come with a applicator which works well also. Honestly, T SHIRT!

Awesome! I've installed around 40-50 sets of these using this method. Let me know if you run into any issues. Happy to help.

benfordguitars Did today in under 15 minutes, no problem! Interesting tuners btw. It’s weird to be turning all tuners roughly the same amount. I like it.

The dye usually drys within a day depending on how many coats and the type of wood. Shellac does a good job of sealing the dye. It does however reactivate it. I use spray shellac. I apply several LIGHT coats. Probably 4-5. I will then lightly sand with 400-600. Make sure the sanding dust is white and not tinted with the dye color you used. If you see some color in your dust, you need more sealer coats. If you dont, theres a barrier of finish between the dye and your new white dress shirt. From there I'll either apply Tru-Oil for additional finish, or lacquer if i'm going for a gloss finish.

@@benfordguitars Wow thanks so much for the detailed response. Now I can finish my project with confidence. I'm headed out right now to the store to buy some spray on shellac. God bless!

You can get the 6 in line normal or staggered. I dont believe the do 7 string sets.

Who knows! It was just your cheapo home store plywood.

No grain filler. Just the dye. Final guitar had several coats of shellac then Tru-oil

.25"

Huh? No finger joints