I have done this on 6 boats so far with no issues. :3/4 “PVC Trim Board :Scuff up board and transom : wipe both surfaces down w/ acetone / alcohol : apply LocTite PL Premium 3X adhesive ( Home Cheapo $8 ) : apply blue painters tape to hold block for adhesive dry overnight
Thanks for the video. I plan on doing the same thing. Would be great if you could link to the exact 3M adhesive and trim board you used... I see other videos with very similar material (and 3M 5200) that fell off after a while... You seem to have the right combination of prep and material. Also wondering how much 3M was needed... i.e. 1oz, 3oz, or what. Thanks again!
curious now that you've had this on for many years... did the UV break down the PVC or 5200 adhesive let go off the PVC????? I'm very close to doing the same.
Transducer bottom surface should be 1/8 th to 1/4 inch *BELOW* the boat bottom, do your calculations on your boat. edit: and the vertical C/L square with the surface of the water; and boats in trailers are not always level...
Bill when you put the 3m Adhesive on the plate did you smear it all over or did you run lines across it and near the edges ? I,m thinking of putting 2 screws with (adhesive on them) from in side the boat in to the plate thru 2 of the holes in the boat already. I think this was a great idea and I just happen to have some plastic trim. thanks tommy
that's exactly what I was going to do with one exception - recess bolt holes on back of pcv so that I can bolt the transducers down VS relying on screws.... I also thought about stealing a cutting board from the kitchen under the guise of darkness...
@@billdevarennes9954 Thank you for the fast reply Bill. I'm going to do the same thing on my rig. Previous owner installed the transducer too low and directly behind a chine. I bought new Garmin's and will duplicate your project on my transom.
Why would you put screws back in the old holes? he had the epoxy to glue it on, why not over size the hole and fill it? omg! why not fit nylock nuts in the plastic for mounting the transducer- could melt them in......lots of room for improvement in this effort.
I'm confused about the adhesive you used. The video mentions epoxy, but later you show a tube of 3M 5200. That's not epoxy, is it? I haven't used it, but would guess it's a variation of silicone adhesive.
An 8-foot length of that exact PVC trim at Menards is about $10 to $12... That's enough material to make 16 of those transom mounting blocks...! (He said about a dollar)...
FWIW - you could countersink the screws from the original holes, get the screws flush or just below the transom, and then 5200 over the screws themselves. No need to drill into the board itself and measure where holes are...I'm planning on doing the board install as you recommended.
the benefit of the block is that if you ever change transducer or need to move it slightly, you can re-drill (into the block) and move around the block or add other items without drilling more and more holes in the transom. If you mount a block first, you can upgrade electronics or fiddle with locations without ever touching actual transom again.
So did the 3M Marine Sealant keep the mounting plate on the boat? I did the same thing on our boat. Haven't had it out yet but it has been two months since I glued the plate and mounted the transducer. The glue should be as good as it will ever be.
Good tip on where to buy a thick piece of plastic..I have same problem last owner didn't know what he was doing mounted it too low with no room for adjustment..
Which epoxy did you use? Has your project held up to date? Or, has your project failed? I am planning on doing the same exact thing. I also have an aluminum boats and would like to add a different transducer mount. This was a brilliant idea you came up with. Thanks in advance
Bill de Varennes Did you cover the entire mating surface of the wood grain, then apply it to the transom? This is definitely a great idea you had. I'd like to try it myself. The video was very informative!!!
yeah-I made sure to thoroughly clean both the hull and the block first. Then covered the block, leaving about 1/8th of an inch from edge so it wouldn't squirt out when I pressed it to the hull. Finished it off with a little caulking around the edge after it was dry.
Bill de Varennes Sounds great! I'm going to LOWES in the morning to pick up those supplies. I'm confident that your procedure will work. I'm planning on getting a Humminbird Helix 7 SI GPS G2. I've researched the transducer mount on that new unit and unfortunately, it won't line up with my existing mount. Therefore, I came across your video and I thought it was absolutely a brilliant idea. I've got plenty of time for the 3M marine epoxy to cure. So, I'm eager to see my end result. I'm ordering the Humminbird Helix 7 SI GPS G2 tomorrow or Monday. Installation should be completed by next Saturday. Thanks for your video!!! It is certainly a tremendous help.
nice job...but if you had taken bolt out of mount before hand, rotated mount 90° surely this would have given you enough lift and still use existing holes? Nice vid none the less ;-)
I was thinking same thing. 5200 the old bolts and bamm. But he did a good job. I make similar for my boats and friends boats, but when I mount I put two hex bolts glued and screwed with 5200 under board in counter sunk holes. And I crosscut the hex bolts for added grip. Buddy has fountain with trips and hasn't shaken loose yet lol so think it's safe for all. Also run the board on table saw set at 25 degree through horizontal axis several times to give some bite. But the trim already has so gonna play with next time someone asks for help.
+YouWrasse IsMine (th3master69) The plate is mounted above the lower edge of the hull so as not to contact the bunk during loading/unloading. The transducer bracket, along with the depth of the plate position the transducer about 3 inches ahead of the bunk. It is close, but unless I hit my trailer at 20 mph and drive the winch through the bow...it won't hit. I've had it on for 2 years and trailer the boat for every use, so have loaded and unloaded many times without a hitch.
Exactly! If the transducer ever contacts the bunk, I've got much bigger problems than just a broken transducer! Unless I cave the bow of the boat in or run over the roller, the transducer won't touch the bunk.
+Bill de Varennes its a bad place for the ducer period especially since you could easily have put it anywhere. If you look at professional installs, youll see that they all tell you to never mount it infront of any bunks. its a bad idea period.
We were going to use your method an got the materials together, but the 5200 says its not for use on PVC. Its concerning to the point of returning everything and buying a Sternsaver kit (starboard, and epoxy). I hope your good luck with the mount continues, but I'd keep a close eye on it!!
+Matt Beeramid I don't remember seeing that it wasn't recommended for PVC, but ran the boat the entire season last year with no issues-still rock solid! Thanks for the heads-up! I'll let you know if I lose it!
+Bill de Varennes We got one of the stern saver things, but it's not going to work for us due to the stepped transom design. Really don't want to drill, but looks like it's in the cards.
Nice job Bill. You did a fine job of solving that problem.
I have done this on 6 boats so far with no issues. :3/4 “PVC Trim Board :Scuff up board and transom : wipe both surfaces down w/ acetone / alcohol : apply LocTite PL Premium 3X adhesive ( Home Cheapo $8 ) : apply blue painters tape to hold block for adhesive dry overnight
How is this holding up?
Brutally bad video. Have no idea how you mounted that block.
im going to try that, thank you
I know it's been a spell but how did that hold out for you
hello what material did you use as a base where to screw the transducer probe?
Thanks for the video. I plan on doing the same thing. Would be great if you could link to the exact 3M adhesive and trim board you used... I see other videos with very similar material (and 3M 5200) that fell off after a while... You seem to have the right combination of prep and material. Also wondering how much 3M was needed... i.e. 1oz, 3oz, or what. Thanks again!
Thats crazy!!!! Im doing the exzact same thing!!! With the exzact same poly board lol.
Thank you , not wanting to drill holes in my boat
curious now that you've had this on for many years... did the UV break down the PVC or 5200 adhesive let go off the PVC????? I'm very close to doing the same.
Transducer bottom surface should be 1/8 th to 1/4 inch *BELOW* the boat bottom, do your calculations on your boat. edit: and the vertical C/L square with the surface of the water; and boats in trailers are not always level...
Bill when you put the 3m Adhesive on the plate did you smear it all over or did you run lines across it and near the edges ? I,m thinking of putting 2 screws with (adhesive on them) from in side the boat in to the plate thru 2 of the holes in the boat already. I think this was a great idea and I just happen to have some plastic trim. thanks tommy
I spread it evenly over the entire surface of the plate. No screws. Has held up great.
@@billdevarennes9954 Thanks for the info.
that's exactly what I was going to do with one exception - recess bolt holes on back of pcv so that I can bolt the transducers down VS relying on screws.... I also thought about stealing a cutting board from the kitchen under the guise of darkness...
Hey Bill, It's been six years since you posted this. How's it holding up?
It’s as solid as the day I installed it! Never had an issue with it at all.
@@billdevarennes9954 Thank you for the fast reply Bill. I'm going to do the same thing on my rig. Previous owner installed the transducer too low and directly behind a chine. I bought new Garmin's and will duplicate your project on my transom.
Hey how has this plate held up? Looks like you made this 5 years ago. Thanks!!!
ola , of what material is this white plate ?? Is it pvc ?? Thanks
starboard
you are going to wack your transducer on your bunk dude, be careful
$40? for a piece of board got to be something else that can be used right that serve the same purpose right?
These boards are 8 dollars for a 10ft section- not sure you’re looking at the right board.
depending on how rough you run your boat the plastic doesn't bond well with anything except silicone. i had to find out the hard way lol.
Why would anyone put screws in the holes. Epoxy does the same job without screws.
Why would you put screws back in the old holes? he had the epoxy to glue it on, why not over size the hole and fill it? omg! why not fit nylock nuts in the plastic for mounting the transducer- could melt them in......lots of room for improvement in this effort.
It's been a few years later. How is it holding up?
I'm confused about the adhesive you used. The video mentions epoxy, but later you show a tube of 3M 5200. That's not epoxy, is it? I haven't used it, but would guess it's a variation of silicone adhesive.
it is 3M 5200 marine adhesive. I probably said epoxy, but you're right-it's not.
Is the sealant that strong? You didn't have to drill any holes to hold that plate?
Nope in another comment 2 years ago he said that it has held up fine for the past 3 years
I used silicon white . As that just is good is marine ? It is water proof . I would after put off another day to get the marine sealer.
How thick is this board?Great video thank you for uploading.
@The MBP it's about a half inch thick per video at 1:27
the ideal is 5/8 to 3/4 inch
I hope those (3) transom screws were stainless steel... And yes, 3M 5200 marine adhesive/sealant is virtually permanent after a 72 hour cure or so...
Plastic Cutting board from Wal-Mart lots cheaper.
An 8-foot length of that exact PVC trim at Menards is about $10 to $12... That's enough material to make 16 of those transom mounting blocks...! (He said about a dollar)...
Does Walmart sell half inch or three quarter inch thick cutting boards? Anything less than half inch won't work.
Sound advice, thank you
Thanks for the video! I have a question though does this pvc seriously stick with 5200 marine adhesive and thats it?
yes, but a stainless steel screw on each side is a wise idea
After you Epoxy the plate to the boat. Did u drill little screws into the plate to hold the transducer or did u epoxy the transducer to the plate?
yes, I drilled pilot holes in the plate first-then mounted the transducer with screws.
Will that sealant work on aluminum boats?
The boat in the video is aluminum. Painted with marine white. Sealant still holding strong-no issues at all!
FWIW - you could countersink the screws from the original holes, get the screws flush or just below the transom, and then 5200 over the screws themselves. No need to drill into the board itself and measure where holes are...I'm planning on doing the board install as you recommended.
Or why not use the screws to help secure the new mounting block. Countersink them into the new block and you accomplish both tasks.
Nice idea...but if you're mounting the poly to the transom with epoxy why not just epoxy the xducer mount straight to the transom?
the benefit of the block is that if you ever change transducer or need to move it slightly, you can re-drill (into the block) and move around the block or add other items without drilling more and more holes in the transom. If you mount a block first, you can upgrade electronics or fiddle with locations without ever touching actual transom again.
And more glued space will hold better
So did the 3M Marine Sealant keep the mounting plate on the boat? I did the same thing on our boat. Haven't had it out yet but it has been two months since I glued the plate and mounted the transducer. The glue should be as good as it will ever be.
Cool! Simple and cheap
Thanks for sharing ... eh :)
Marine silicone would hold that mounting plate on with no screws at all, mine is 13 yrs and no issue
The plate is only held with silicone...only screws are the ones mounting the transducer mount to the plate.
Silicone is better than 5200 marine sealant ?
I used 3M 5200 marine sealant-have had no issues since I mounted it, spring of 2015. 3 seasons of fishing and still as stable as day 1.
What kind of Marine sealant?
jbettss 3M 5200 ya bozo
Good tip on where to buy a thick piece of plastic..I have same problem last owner didn't know what he was doing mounted it too low with no room for adjustment..
a 10 dollar poly cutting board from walmart will do the same thing
nylon ??? I would be using ABS and a methyl acrylate glue, same as what they use to bond the deck to the hull in boat building- never come off.
it should be 12" off center from center of prop
Which epoxy did you use? Has your project held up to date? Or, has your project failed? I am planning on doing the same exact thing. I also have an aluminum boats and would like to add a different transducer mount. This was a brilliant idea you came up with. Thanks in advance
I just picked up a tube of 3M Marine epoxy at my local hardware store. It has held up great! 2 years and hasn't given me any trouble at all.
Bill de Varennes Did you cover the entire mating surface of the wood grain, then apply it to the transom? This is definitely a great idea you had. I'd like to try it myself. The video was very informative!!!
yeah-I made sure to thoroughly clean both the hull and the block first. Then covered the block, leaving about 1/8th of an inch from edge so it wouldn't squirt out when I pressed it to the hull. Finished it off with a little caulking around the edge after it was dry.
Bill de Varennes Sounds great! I'm going to LOWES in the morning to pick up those supplies. I'm confident that your procedure will work. I'm planning on getting a Humminbird Helix 7 SI GPS G2. I've researched the transducer mount on that new unit and unfortunately, it won't line up with my existing mount. Therefore, I came across your video and I thought it was absolutely a brilliant idea. I've got plenty of time for the 3M marine epoxy to cure. So, I'm eager to see my end result. I'm ordering the Humminbird Helix 7 SI GPS G2 tomorrow or Monday. Installation should be completed by next Saturday. Thanks for your video!!! It is certainly a tremendous help.
I hope it works out for you- like I said before, 2 years and not a single issue with mine. Still solid!
The hoose! Must be a moose loose!
Brilliant!
nice job...but if you had taken bolt out of mount before hand, rotated mount 90° surely this would have given you enough lift and still use existing holes? Nice vid none the less ;-)
I was thinking same thing. 5200 the old bolts and bamm. But he did a good job. I make similar for my boats and friends boats, but when I mount I put two hex bolts glued and screwed with 5200 under board in counter sunk holes. And I crosscut the hex bolts for added grip. Buddy has fountain with trips and hasn't shaken loose yet lol so think it's safe for all. Also run the board on table saw set at 25 degree through horizontal axis several times to give some bite. But the trim already has so gonna play with next time someone asks for help.
Home depot only has 16 foot lengths..wanna sell me a 6" piece?....lol Nice work!
I'll look around and see if I've got anymore-I'll let you know
I was just kidding, but thanks for the idea..I will locate a small piece...:-)
Nice job
Thanks!
very bad location for the ducer. why would you mount it directly inline with your tariler bunk where it will most likely break?
+YouWrasse IsMine (th3master69) The plate is mounted above the lower edge of the hull so as not to contact the bunk during loading/unloading. The transducer bracket, along with the depth of the plate position the transducer about 3 inches ahead of the bunk. It is close, but unless I hit my trailer at 20 mph and drive the winch through the bow...it won't hit. I've had it on for 2 years and trailer the boat for every use, so have loaded and unloaded many times without a hitch.
by the time it hits bunk boat is beatup on front anyway..should only go until it hits front roller?
Exactly! If the transducer ever contacts the bunk, I've got much bigger problems than just a broken transducer! Unless I cave the bow of the boat in or run over the roller, the transducer won't touch the bunk.
+Bill de Varennes its a bad place for the ducer period especially since you could easily have put it anywhere. If you look at professional installs, youll see that they all tell you to never mount it infront of any bunks. its a bad idea period.
but its your boat
Good idea.I had some of that long before I needed it and got rid of it.It's cheap if you have a scrap piece, not if you need to buy a 16 foot piece
true enough!
We were going to use your method an got the materials together, but the 5200 says its not for use on PVC. Its concerning to the point of returning everything and buying a Sternsaver kit (starboard, and epoxy). I hope your good luck with the mount continues, but I'd keep a close eye on it!!
+Matt Beeramid I don't remember seeing that it wasn't recommended for PVC, but ran the boat the entire season last year with no issues-still rock solid! Thanks for the heads-up! I'll let you know if I lose it!
+Bill de Varennes We got one of the stern saver things, but it's not going to work for us due to the stepped transom design. Really don't want to drill, but looks like it's in the cards.