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How much do you weigh? Have you set the sag? Ditching the stock tires helps because they have relatively short sidewalls that can bottom out easily if the air pressure is too low. On the other end of the spectrum, running high enough pressure to save the tubes and rims will degrade ride quality A LOT. The forks do tweak easily because they are such a small diameter (37 mm). As you probably already know, most modern dirtbikes are running 48 mm sliders (though 43 mm forks are out there). Based solely on our own experiences with our bike, we generally realign them without loosening anything (like a bicycle). Stand over the front wheel, brace with your knees, and twist the bars until you're happy. It's one of the UB's endearing qualities!

I haven't tried that combo yet. How's the life?

@@StoltecMoto : front is tough as nails, the rear is super soft, and has traction in all the wet rocks roots, and logs. But if you spin allot, it disappears quick. The upside, is even with the knobs worn down, it's still soft/grippy, because it's a trials compound, with offroad tread.

@@Trad-Am These might be my next set...either on the Sur Ron or the gasser. Appreciate the recommendation. The IRC rear on the Ultra still has lots of tread, but of course, no hard edges. The front still looks brand new, even after about 50 hrs...

@@StoltecMoto : definitely try the rear 216x gummy. The 216 aa fatty front, might be overkill for the suron, it's wide, and tall, and rolls over everything like it's not there. Works great on the 500, though! Oh, shinko has a cheap 216 front knockoff, of the GT 216 front, I think it even say 216, but it sheds knobs I hear. The real one is hard to hurt!

@@Trad-Am The fatty front sounds good for x-country and enduros on my Husky. Soon as I kill the MX33, this is looking like the hot setup.

You're welcome.

Key ON, press M. Trip distance and top speed will display. Reset by holding S.

it only shows this “AL - 117” is there an other trick how to display the trip distance

@@technischespielereien2227 The AL-117 code means the side stand is down. Flip it up and code disappears.

Unfortunately, FT-ECU doesn’t have an ECU file for that bike so this wouldn’t work for you. However, you might want to check out the Dynojet Power Commander and their Auto Tune. It does similar tuning (albeit with a little less fidelity).

Good luck in your decision making. For the right rider and the right type of riding, the Ultra Bee can be quite the weapon. Glad the video was helpful!

Rear brake lever has a little spring loaded pawl on top. Just click it into position when you squeeze the brake.

On one hand, the 21” front will roll easier over pot holes and the like. On the other hand, it’ll steer a little slower due to the extra gyroscopic effect and will be a little less responsive over bumps due to the extra unsprung mass. It would not be the end of the world, but I’d certainly avoid wearing out good knobbie tires on the pavement…

I'm also 5'9" and found the factory bars to be a little too low. It was possible, especially for moto style riding, but woods left my lower back sore. I'm running the CRF High...both with and without 15 mm bar risers. I go back and forth on whether or not I like those...depends on the type of riding.

Your understanding is correct. However, I would offer that even the stock exhaust and intake can benefit from a few iterations before defaulting to live correction mode. It really helps with smoothness.

@@StoltecMoto You're right it really does. Got my active tune kit today and after a few iterations, wow what a difference

Plug it in, and away you go. No breaker to flip or anything to disconnect. Leave the battery connected via the harnesses.

@@StoltecMoto thank you! And finally, if I choose to disconnect remove the battery to clean it or something I’m supposed to take off the communication cable before the orange one right and the same procedure putting back on?

@@carztohobbiesyou got it. Exactly.

Thanks for the kind words...Glad to hear the vids were useful for you!

My pleasure!

We don't have access to a Storm Bee...but good question and perhaps someone else can chime in.

Actually, you bring up an interesting question. You can adjust the speedo read out to compensate for gearing and tire changes (as you know). Not sure if that will have any affect on the TC performance. We’re snowed in at the moment, but good idea on something to experiment with when the trails are useful again.

Yes and yes.

Thanks for watching

Glad you liked it!

It’s not a direct swap, and I wouldn’t recommend it. The Ultra Bee hubs are beefier for more strength and durability.

Yeah they had some for the lbx 👍🎄merry Christmas

We have a prototype setup that has been working very well. Needs another tweak, but hoping to have something available soon. Trying to wrap up other projects first.

Sick! I'll be keeping my eyes out for it on your website. I. bought your hand guard spacers for when I swapped to my Acerbis hand guards. Small purchase but they did their their thing right. Will it work with Warp9 or other wheel sets or only KKE?@@StoltecMoto

If you can get over the lack of elevation, the Pocono infield circuits are actually a lot of fun. This particular loop includes some of the tri-oval, so that's fun, as well. You get your fill of speed and tight sections.

The international road legal version comes with passenger pegs...see video. It's definitely not set up for typical American adults, however. Seating space and suspension capacity are sized for smaller riders.

Not really. The terrain has the biggest affect on range where we ride. Plus, the tires on this bike maintain the stock diameter (rear) and are on the lighter end of the spectrum. If you start running full size moto tires (i.e. width and load range), the weight jumps up and you'll see a hit for sure.

Oddly, I find the mirrors to be better than what’s on most street bikes these days. In fact, the UB mirrors were installed on my Hypermotard 939.

Right on, thanks man!

Right on man, that sounds great. Hit us up via email and we’ll look to link up.

We did Tubliss on these wheels, which has a rim lock integrated. We had to drill another hole to accommodate this, but that's standard fare.

That's a good suggestion. We'll record the install on the next bike we do here in our shop. Thanks for reaching out!

Agreed on all fronts, though I don’t honestly think I’ve ever seen 30 miles out of a charge. Seems like 25-30 is the high water mark. That Dragon looks interesting…depending on price.

Agreed that climbs can be tricky. All that torque, all the time, can be tough. Part of the issue is the short wheelbase...

Good suggestion. Thanks for watching.

Eastern PA...and yes (but not right now).

Best practice is to keep the battery state of charge between 20-80% during storage. If possible, don’t charge when hot (right after a ride) and let it settle for a bit after charging. However, also good to occasionally let the BMS balance the cells at 100%. I keep this bike ‘ready’ at 80% and top off a few hours before a ride and try to use the slowest charge rate to be gentle to the cells.

Nice tip about charging.. thanks a lot👍🍻..

Earned a new subscriber here😁..

The best thing to do is keep the battery voltage at or around 72v which is the nominal voltage of the battery (40-50%) Especially for long term storage. And never store the battery outdoors. 80% is the limit if you're storing it (80v out of 84v), so only keep it on 80% when you really have to... I wouldn't advise doing that for more than a few days Good practice is charging it to 80% if you need to save time before charging/riding again/doing a shorter ride

@@joem8601 You make some excellent points. My previous post was based on the context of having the bike ready to roll for the next ride (close to 80%).

Randy! Good to hear from you, and congrats on the baby Tenere! Lots to love about that bike. I raced this bike in C. Hard to say if I’d be able to hang in B class with it, especially since I babies it to make range. Which wasn’t successful anyway…

Working on it!

It might be splitting hairs, but I'll be honest that I was a little disappointed it came in heavier than advertised. It's still super light when you're riding it due to the mass centralization, but it's not insanely light...like the Light Bee. I don't have personal experience with a YZ125 or KTM 150. However, I've personally been intrigued by the latter, mostly because it's the closest thing to a spiritual successor you'll get for the retired KTM 200's. But from what I've seen, the 150 winds up being in the neighborhood of about 20 lbs heavier when fully fuelled. That's not a huge weight gain, but I'll happily give up 20 lbs all day long. Of course, the KTM has better suspension and chassis without question. But then there's the price. So yeah, it's really a different class, even if it's subtle.

I own a ‘22 150xcw- I put 50 hrs on it this year between trail riding, racing a hard enduro, and a couple of sprint enduros. I’m a local A class racer (B for nationals). Yesterday I rode the Ultra Bee. The Ultra was very fun, and WAY better than I expected! That said it was much less powerful than the 150. It felt like half the power- and the math matches that (16 hp vs 40 hp). Ultra Bee was way easier to ride on tight trail. But they are completely different animals. The 150 can go for nearly 4 hours at my skill level on a tank of gas. The Ultra can go about 1 hour. Both are cool, but very different.

@@JeffKendallWeed Sounds like your skill level is above that of my own. However, I find it telling that we both only get 1 hour out of it when "on the pipe". Good information.

Any time!

Good question! We’ve done a lot. Short answer is range has been in the 19-30 mile region with the normal being right about 25 miles. However, like all electric vehicles, there’s more to the story. We just took some fresh footage about our local terrain and a recent hare scramble…subscribe to see it…should have it up within a week.