Video

Glad you like it! Yes, especially if there is only one desk available this type of solution can make your life simpler :)

Thank you, I am glad you liked the video! :)

Thank you, I am glad you liked it! What kind of video would you like to see next on here?

Thank you so much, Ryan, I am glad you like them! I just settled into a new place, and I am still re-building my studio there, but I already have a new project in the works. Stay tuned :)

Sure! It's in the companion article: www.friendlywire.com/tutorials/ws2812/#appendix

Sorry for your frustration! Sometimes these things can drive us nuts indeed... Can I help with anything?

@@FriendlyWire I will just keep working at it, cannot believe school children know how to do it. I figure little things out more and more.

@@rrssmooth6643 That's awesome, good luck, and don't give up, you can do it!

Ha, that's awesome, Mohammed! Thank you for your kind words, and congratulations! :)

Thank you, I am glad you liked it! :)

That's awesome! I would love to see a picture of the code lock. If you can, please share it with me on Twitter/Instagram @FriendlyWire or via email (at the bottom of www.fiendlywire.com). Did everything work as expected?

@@FriendlyWire czcams.com/video/yDn2xTaY5Uw/video.html

​@@FriendlyWire This is security lock system I have made it in youtube video you can see it

Thank you for your kind words, I am glad you liked the video! And building the mega encoder was fun, too :)

Hello! Yes, you can do that with a relay module. You connect the LED signal to the input of the relay, and on the contact side of the relay you can hen switch other devices. But be careful with this: line voltage is dangerous, and please only do this if you feel confident about it. If not, no worries: you can probably talk to a local makerspace or find a programmable timer solution. Let me know what you think, and be safe.

@@FriendlyWire thank you !

Good idea, but I don't think it would work, I doubt they are more than a few kilo ohms, and here we need a million times more. Let me know if it works, I am happy to learn more!

@@FriendlyWire Hi I found this video of someone doing this on arduino (atmega328P) I'm not sure if he uses the exact same technique, but there are no external components required. czcams.com/video/R94Ut3pOTd4/video.html

I am glad you liked the video, and apologies for my late response. Yes! You can do that! Check out the PIC16F455 ADC tutorial here: czcams.com/video/AlpbbeX7-BU/video.html . What kind of other things would you like to control with the circuit?

@@FriendlyWire I'm a musician, I was hoping this would be a handy way to make a smooth sample and hold LFO. Really I'd like to be able to make and program musical devices, like digital effect pedals and synths, without having to put an entire Arduino inside, as that seems wasteful.

@@tziirkq Ohh that is so interesting! I have no experience with this, but could you describe it a bit more, perhaps via email? You can find my address at the bottom of www.friendlywire.com :)

Thank you for your kind words, I am glad you found it useful!

Glad you liked the video, Miguel, happy to help! :)

It only works if stray capacitance gets changed, so wood and plastic won't work, I think.

Thank you for the question, I am glad that the video was helpful. I am not sure if I understood everything :) Can you explain what the problems seems to be?

@@FriendlyWire thanks for your response There was a wire missing which was not connected,now it's working

@@MAFIAGAMING-pn6se Perfect, I am glad it's working now! Which wire was it?

@@FriendlyWire led common pin is connected to R3(Resistor) and then resistor is connected to ground,but I have to connect led common pin to ground separately after that it starts working 🙂

You can use any AND gate in the CMOS family. I used the CD4081 because it has two inputs, but you could use CD4073 (3 inputs) and just tie one permanently to VDD. But the CD4081 is the best choice.

Thank you for the question! It sounds like you could do this with a simple counter, like the CD4017 ( czcams.com/video/BZjO2TuS2Vk/video.html ) and some extra circuitry. Do you know if you want to use a microcontroller or not?

Haha sure thing :)

Thank you for the question! I know, using microcontrollers can be a bit scary. On this channel I try to help beginners to lose that fear and give it a try :-) But of course you don't have to use microcontrollers, if you don't want to. For touch sensors, there are ready-built modules. Just search for "TTP223B touch sensor" and you will find ready-made modules. But if you want to build something yourself, there is also a microcontroller-less version that I found here: czcams.com/video/sx3E6VM0e90/video.html . I have not built this circuit myself, but it looks like it makes use of a similar principle. Let me know if that helps, and thank you again for your question! Have a great weekend! :)

@@FriendlyWire aaaah... ok... muchas gracias..!!! Tomare nota... estaba buscando un sensor capacitivo que pueda armarse con componentes simples... gracias por los datos... Saludos y buena suerte...!!!

@@tiempoveganoprovida2247 Happy to help, and good luck to you, too! :)

Thank you, I am glad you liked the video! If you want to resolve the position in an absolute way then you need an "absolute" rotary encoder. These have more outputs than just A and B, of course, because they need to resolve the whole angular span. But I am not sure if that is always necessary: if you don't need the full 360 degrees, you could also use a potentiometer and measure the voltage at the wiper with a good analog-to-digital converter. Alternatively, you could use a gear with a 2:1 reduction to map 360 degrees to 180 degrees on the potentiometer. What is your target resolution for this project?

@@FriendlyWire Thanks for answering. I have created a web app. It converts the shadow azimuth obtained from a shadow stick (to be your potentiometer turning "cylindrical knob") at center of a 0 to 360 degrees azimuth dial (azimuth angle is from 0 degrees to shadow) to an associated target azimuth. 0 degrees on the dial does not necessarily meaning north pointer but any required azimuth as I turn the cardboard dial I actually cut out a pointer above the 0 degrees It's an upsidedown marker or teardrop I WANT YOUR IDEA TO DISPLAY THE TARGET AZIMUTH AS YOU CHANGE THE SHADOW WITH THE POTENTIOMETER (OR OTHER SOLUTION OF YOURS) THEN YOU HAVE A SHADOW SUN COMPASS ! (make nice plastic toy with display) I have an improved web app that I call SHARKY SHADOWS for shark spotting (and flares and drowning people etc) I learnt long ago you cannot be a PC OR PHONE programmer AND a microprocessor programmer at the same time, but I can help anyone who attempts it with atleast some javascript guidance. OK, the pic cannot really do all the calculations, I guess.

Thank you so much, Kieran, much appreciated. Have a great weekend!

Thanks for your interest and for your question! When you set up the project etc. did you select the PIC16F28A as a device?

@@FriendlyWire yes i selected PIC16F628, maybe this issue is something to do with the internal clock?

@@djt3934 Yes, it could be that. Can you send me your code to my email (at the bottom of www.friendlywire.com) and I will have a look at it :)

Thank you, Simon, much appreciated! :)

Much appreciated, thank you, Brandon!

Wow, thank you so much much, Brandon!

Good question! Because this circuit does not use any microcontroller, the code is fixed and cannot be changed. If you want to change the code, you have to change the circuit. Have a look at the companion article on my website: www.friendlywire.com/projects/code-lock/ . In this article I explain how the schematic works, and after reading it you will have a pretty good idea of how you can change the code :) But if you are building this circuit and have the pushbuttons in a separate location, a simple way to change the code is this: leave all wires unchanged, and just move the location of the physical pushbuttons around. For example, switch the location of pushbutton A and C on your keypad, and all of a sudden it looks as if the code has been changed. Let me know if this helps or if you have additional questions, and thanks again for your interest & for your question! And, most importantly, have fun with electronics!

Man!! the article is so helpful... thank you!

@@marounn-ao4014 I am glad it helps! If anything doesn't make sense please reach out via email, I will do my best to help out. You can find my email at the bottom of www.friendlywire.com :)

Thank you! I use Eagle to make the schematics (no real reason, I just like how they look like) and then I animate the squiggly lines by hand by drawing onto the schematic with GIMP and then superimposing those lines on top of it.

@@FriendlyWire Thanks A lot for this brief comment, I have my DLD Project presentation next week, saw your designs and it caught my attention. Amazing ❤️

@@talha_abbas Happy to help, and good luck for your presentation! :)

Thank you, Herman, much appreciated! I recently moved so I have to wait until I can film the next video, but I have already planned a lot of new videos :)

Thank you for your feedback! :) Yes, it could use more time, I agree with you. Sometimes it's hard to decide for me how much detail to put in the video. For this reason I always write a companion article to each video, which usually has more details. You can check it out here: www.friendlywire.com/tutorials/rotary-encoder/#ch7 Let me know if it makes sense or if you have questions, I am happy to help!

It's never too late to learn something new! :-)

Hi Stuart, thanks for your kind words! Sorry, I have no videos on the PIC10F200. The chips I use most frequently are the PIC16F1455, PIC16F627A, and the PIC16F883.

Glad you liked the video! :)

I am glad you liked the video! Yes, it can be very frustrating... Sometimes it helps to just have the shift register, with LEDs at all outputs, and pushbuttons at the input pins (with debounce capacitor and pulldown/pullup resistor) to check everything step by step. Have you tried that? Let me know if this helps. If not, I can explain more. Don't be discouraged by this. It is a normal experience, and I have had similar experiences, too. I almost gave up many times. But I know you can do this :)

@@FriendlyWire I actually did it. I didn't know 'shiftIn()' function actually works but it is quite tricky at timing. I just keep on believing on it that it'll work until it did and made me so happy. Also, for people reading this I don't recommend using breadboard I recommend soldering it in a temporary soldering board because breadboard can have a chance of loose connection of the resistors causing it to read different.

​@@yamitokyoo I'm glad that it works now, congratulations! Awesome job, and thank you for sharing!! Yes, the timing can be a bit tricky, in the sense that if you do the clock pulses too quickly it may be too fast for the shift register. This is why I run these examples here at 4MHz (effectively 1MHz with PICs) which is slow enough so we don't have to worry. I am glad you got it working on a PCB! I like breadboards because they are so flexible, but if you get a bad breadboard it can be extremely frustrating because of loose wires/bad connections. Glad it worked out! :)

Thank you so much, glad you like it!

Ziyan, thank you so much for your comment, it made my day! All the best wishes from Germany!

I would love to claim that I came up with the algorithm, but I did some research and found the one I presented in the video online :)

Thank you, glad you find it useful! :)

@@FriendlyWire don't stop making beginner friendly tutorials. I am trying to replicate and learn :)

@@divitrajgogia4909 Comments like your mean a lot, and I don't have any plans to stop anytime soon. I just moved recently so I am still getting set up in the new place. :) Thank you for your kind words, and have a great Sunday!

You need some sort of device for that. There are other options out there, including kits that use the serial connection from back in the day, but I find the PICkit3 or similar devices to be the easiest choice.

Thank you, good to know! :)

Ja, das sollte auch funktionieren, ein paar Flip Flops sollten reichen :)

I would love to see it, make sure to share a photo and tag me :)

Thank you very much, I am glad you like it! :)

Hi! I am not sure if I understand your question, can you elaborate?

For now I will stick with PIC microcontrollers :)