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Am I crazy? Or shouldn’t I be accounting for the missing tread height on the bottom, before I do all the math? If I have a set total rise, and I cut off the 1.5” at the end, wouldn’t the total stringer be too short?

Good video on what separates professionally built stairs from rank amateur attempts.

Without a doubt, miscalculating the bottom stringer riser height is the most common mistake everyone makes. Any time I see a backyard deck set of stairs, my eye always immediately goes to that point, to see if they got it right.

Great content! New subscriber here. Do you have a video on how to build stairs for a senior dog with a bad hip? I would need deeper treads and shorter risers. What would be the best way to do this please?

I needed this tk u

I think I ll use 2x3s for base…

Im using 1x6 and 1x4 s 5 steps 10’ 1/2 x about 7 in…Im gonna try to adapt the measures but its kind of hard…lol

I want to create an architectural step for my "Tuff-Shed" with a half-circle on the left, a straight in the middle and finish off the right even with the edge of the Tuff-Shed. Any tips or drawings that may assist me. I'm a DIYer but I'm pretty handy and good with tools and am very coachable. Thanks. I wanna do this project soon.

@ 5:18 in your lesson which line should I cut at? The top or the bottom measure at 7 ' 3 1/2 inches????

These videos are so informative ... and the illustrations and explanations clear and concise. We've successfully used some of your blocking strategies in our 90+ year old home from beneath where access is provided ... but, now have had a tread pop out on a section of the stairs that is encased with plaster and lath. This blocking method should work perfectly! Thank you!

OSB??? 🤔 someone has done this?

Can I use 2x10x10 for the stringer. ? I won't be cutting the stringer, I will make the steps diagram you show in the video put 2x4 blocks for the steps. Using 3 boards 12" on center for th 10" wide boards. 3 times I have done this

I have existing concrete steps, and I want to use cinder blocks over them... what's the best way to keep them from sliding, mortar, stone in between, thoughts please?

How would you make a stringer with 14” or 15” runs

.good explanation..thanks 🤙

Thanks, this is really helpful 👍

Building a set of stairs for an outside storage building. Don't like the cinder blocks that are in place.

Any ideas on how to keep these from sitting directly on the concrete? And maybe also moveable. Thought about locking casters but no way to really hide them.

Very good content!

If this is a door opening into a separate unit from stairs inside the building is that code approved? Are there codes for sliding "barn doors" in this situation. These are stairs that separate two floors in a condo (currently there is no door). Thanks!

Steps need to be less than 8” rise

but make sure you follow code for the nose. In my area, nosing is not required if the tread is 11" but it still needs rounded off to a curve and not a blunt cut off.

Nosing is required when you have a tread of less than 11 inches. And trust me, they will measure it.

I feel very "duh" at this moment. Of course! I was expecting a toe-screw from underneath, but that is simple and easy enough to hide.

Why not leave part of the stringer in the middle to sit between the 2x4s on the landing?

Hello, I am just viewing these videos (6/2024) and am wondering can I use both the carry beam and it's support post as part of the structural components of my "L" turn staircase?

I did the exact same staircase only I used concrete in the bricks and old gal pipe pounded into the ground between bricks before pouring concrete

I’ve tripped on so many nosings!

Muy bonito trabajo

You are saving my life right now with these videos. You are absolutely the ONLY channel with clear useful information on stair building. I was going to replace 2 stairs that were splitting on my front porch (6 ft high with 10 steps from 1977) and when I removed the treads it became obvious that it needed to be torn down and rebuilt. I have been using your videos to plan out a rebuild the correct way and I could not be more grateful!!! I already used your tips to fix my interior stairs which no longer move if I jump on them and never creak anymore😊 THANK YOY THANK YOU 🙏🏻

I would also put a corner bracket on the underside on each end...

Can you do a video showing how to do this at the top of the stairs? To adjust?

Thanks

So why not a drop truss on the ends. That makes more sense to me.

Personally, Ive seen more people stepping to far our when descending that first step so a extra inch is more of a safety issue.

Thank u

another great video. thank you. question: are their classical ratios for face skirts and wall skirt sizes. I assume that different architectural styles call for different relationships (to the rise and run) but curious if you know where we can learn more about that. I'm particularly interested in the proper ratios for a craftsman/bungalow. thanks!

If they bolted that post into the sides of the second step it would be so much stronger. There's so much more material than the measly first step.

What would be your suggestion for accommodating out of plumb risers as well? scribe after you drop down to your height, or can you mark for both at same time?

Contractor built with no nose. So I'm thinking about moving the main tread out to form nose and fill with smaller board against the riser. Would I still need to block? And maybe I would join with dowels too.

very useful video - thank you :)

🤣 measure to here?

Helpful 💘

Anchor seal works great in this application…

thanks for this info

FIRST VIEW AND COMMENT! TY for all your helpful videos. I learn so much from them.

Thanks for this information it’s helpful

This repair will work for our situation. In preparation, what can be used to prop upper stringer into place? Thank you

And what if their is no opening behind the stairs

Appreciate this video. My poor moms steps are 9in high and needs 7in or 6in.