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Go for it! 😃

Thanks for watching!! The reason for the “secrecy” is to maintain access. All VT Class 4s and NH Class 6s are immediately surrounded by private property, almost without exception. Private landowners have lots of power within towns to close roads (by vote) if they’re deemed a nuisance (too much traffic/noise/environmental damage). As such, trails are kept on the down low. There’s lots more public land and access out west, which is great, the only issue is all the trails are too easy =P. Kidding of course, thanks for watching. Also, there’s plenty of ways to access these trails, just join local clubs, they’ve got the lowdown on all the good terrain.

No worries, I have the full NH class six rd. list, by county and town, and there are a lot! open or closed is determined by the town boards or selectman, I will do more research, but what I have discovered is private landowners can gate them... But Not Lock them, if deemed open to the public by that specific town, RSA231:31 hope to see you out on the trail.

Next time you head out there. . . Hit me up 😅 Would love to bring my 3rd gen taco through

This trail is done on 31s somewhat frequently, and maybe smaller. You just need to be more careful with line choice and be willing to drag on skids and use that armor!

There’s literally never any other option 😂

He says he fluid films it. I have seen Blaster surface shield works at least as well. I am curious how he applied-taken to a shop with a pressure gun, or just solo with cans of it.

I did say Fluid Film, but I've been using Woolwax a lot as well, as I find it lays on a bit thicker straight out of an aerosol can. Both products are fantastic. I spray the frame myself, I just order a couple six packs of the cans off of amazon each year, and it takes about an hour or two to thoroughly cover the whole underside. Also, thanks for your support!

@@S0nnenberg Im going to have to try that out then probably buy those as well because I don’t really have rust on mine I just want to apply that application so I won’t have rust in the future. The ones I’ve seen people use a lot is the fluid film that comes in a 3 pack.

@Carlocio308 The 3-packs do work just fine, though if you’re looking to cover the entire underside it definitely won’t be enough. If you’re just looking to cover the most vulnerable areas, 3 might be fine, especially if you live in an area without a lot of winter road treatment.

@@S0nnenberg yeah i live in the desert so I dont get snow at all ,but I want to cover it from future rust and corrosion.

Great idea!!! I'll definitely keep something like that in mind =]

It wasn’t sealed too nicely, just some weather stripping and plastic trim. It held up well through many cold nights and rain storms!

Hey thanks for the kind words! Sounds like you’ve got an awesome build going! Regarding the CVs, I actually did nothing at all to lessen the angle. I replaced one when I bought the truck with a Toyota OEM, but that was all the work I did. I’ve heard there are significant differences in quality between parts store replacements and the OEM CVs, so I’d recommend finding some Toyota ones and throwing them in there. If you watch my later videos with the truck, you’ll see I put quite a bit of abuse on those CVs and never blew one up. On the flip side of that, I had a buddy with a 1st gen who was putting parts store versions in his rig and they would just bind and fail randomly even with very mild use. Toyota OEM parts are your best bet. If that still doesn’t work (or you already have OEMs), you could probably space the front diff down a bit, I think they make little spacer kits that’ll do that for you, although I imagine some drilled steel blocks would do the same thing.

Absolutely bro! Thank YOU for the response! Yeah I def have parts store CV’s in it right now .. When I first bought the truck, she was garage kept her whole life, and I knew nothing about wrenching 😅 Fast forward to now and I’ve learned more than I ever imagined, and am obsessed with doing my own work! In this journey however, I have learned the hard way about parts store parts vs. Toyota OEM. Def gonna look into OEM CV’s now .. it’s just the boots that I’m having issues with. My angle is so extreme for some reason it just chafes and rubs those boots to oblivion. But I will cough up the extra for OEM and try that!! Also will do the dif drop mod… again, thank you for the killer vid, and the quick and incredibly helpful response! 😎 You motivate me, my dude!! Cheers!

@@tylerb7198 The boots are a pretty common issue with people running lifts on these things, even mild ones. I think there are some companies out there who make high angle boots, but again I had pretty good luck with mine just stock. Enjoy the journey! That truck will take you far, and it will take some serious abuse if you feel like dishing it out. I'm now in the process of building my 2nd gen back up, and am remembering how fun it is wrench and build, part by part. Glad to have motivated you, hit me up if you're ever around New England and we'll do some wheeling!

Yeah man I’ve read all over about the lifted boot issue… it’s wild you don’t have issues! But also, hell ya! Can I ask one more question? How hard was it for you to trim your fender wells? What did you use to do it? I think I’m ultimately going to have to lower the front of mine to help with my CV issue with my current setup, but I believe I’m gonna have to pinch weld mod as well as trim some fender :/ It is def a journey!! It is forever worth it tho, the joy I get out of taking this place everywhere and anywhere. Bro I will def hit you up if I’m ever in New England again! You seem super chill! Same goes to you if you’re ever in the Pacific Northwest 😎 I’ll show you some hella rad trails! Thanks again man. I appreciate the responses and input 🙏

Unless you're lifted beyond 2-2.5", I don't think lowering the truck would be necessary to fix the boot issue. You either just need some higher quality CVs, or some high angle boots. I just used an angle grinder to trim outer fender, but had to tub the entire fenderwell to fit 35s...lots of cutting and welding. Unless you're going to run over 33s, it shouldn't be necessary so long as you run the correct offset wheels. Good luck! @@tylerb7198

Hey there Hugh! Despite your (assumed) well-meaning comment, I disagree with you regarding the condition of this trail for use. While it's not easy to see in video, it was not in any way water logged (some standing water is just a way of life around here, these trails are almost never dry), and while I understand the camera view isn't ideal, I did not leave the tracks. That's virtually impossible considering how tight the trail is. I do appreciate your concern for the trail, good luck with things.

Just because you personally do not see this activity as "fun" does not mean that others agree with you. These roads are open to the public and to registered motor vehicles, unless otherwise specified by the town Board of Selectmen

Sure does!! Love this beast =]

Really appreciate it!! The latch worked quite well, great kit from 4xi.

That’s a really smart technique, thanks for sharing, will definitely be trying that in the future!!

Yes, check out the walkthrough video to see a detailed explanation of the suspension.

I unfortunately don’t have the truck anymore, but I did take the truck in after installing these to get the toe adjusted. I honestly remember it hardly changing though, and camber was perfect.

Never too late to learn!

I do, but I don’t disseminate the names. Too many have gotten shut down through online popularization. Check out some of the local 4x4 clubs/guide services if you want a look at them!

That's cool. But they're public roads right?

They are! Obviously you should feel free to explore, just know the access is sensitive and they can get shut down easily.

@@S0nnenberg Thanks!

The key stock is not part of the kit, but is a pretty common method of increasing the strength of these wimpy little bent tabs.

Yes, they’re public! Go have fun, just treat them with respect =]