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Knotty wood work
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No Peck CNC Drilling Cribbage Board Holes With Vectric Aspire Part 2
This video shows the cnc machining of a cribbage board. Using a 1/8" Ball Nose bit and a 1/4" 60° vbit.
After doing a no peck drilling all of the board holes with the ball nose we use the vbit to create a small chamfer around each hole. This gets rid of any tear out we had from drilling. The chamfer is small only a few thousandths.
After we finish that we use the same 60° vbit to vcarve a design on to the cribbage board to give it some character.
This video is not a paid promotion. I bought all of these bits. I am making a recommendation of them based on the work I am doing.
Part 1 - czcams.com/video/5w8gYmwAhGg/video.html
Vbit - 60° Whiteside vbit amzn.to/4c9hgeA
Ball Nose - Generic 1/8" ball nose amzn.to/4c2tqGN
CNC - Avid PRO60120
Store Link to Digital Files - www.etsy.com/listing/1734262470/cribbage-board-four-track-with-vcarve
After doing a no peck drilling all of the board holes with the ball nose we use the vbit to create a small chamfer around each hole. This gets rid of any tear out we had from drilling. The chamfer is small only a few thousandths.
After we finish that we use the same 60° vbit to vcarve a design on to the cribbage board to give it some character.
This video is not a paid promotion. I bought all of these bits. I am making a recommendation of them based on the work I am doing.
Part 1 - czcams.com/video/5w8gYmwAhGg/video.html
Vbit - 60° Whiteside vbit amzn.to/4c9hgeA
Ball Nose - Generic 1/8" ball nose amzn.to/4c2tqGN
CNC - Avid PRO60120
Store Link to Digital Files - www.etsy.com/listing/1734262470/cribbage-board-four-track-with-vcarve
zhlédnutí: 134
Video
No Peck CNC Drilling Cribbage Board Holes With Vectric Aspire Part 1
zhlédnutí 217Před 2 měsíci
This video shows the cnc machining of a cribbage board. Using a 1/8" Ball Nose bit and a 1/4" 60° vbit. After doing a no peck drilling all of the board holes with the ball nose we use the vbit to create a small chamfer around each hole. This gets rid of any tear out we had from drilling. The chamfer is small only a few thousandths. After we finish that we use the same 60° vbit to vcarve a desig...
Cribbage Board CNC Drill And Vcarve Part 2
zhlédnutí 100Před 3 měsíci
This video shows the cnc machining of a cribbage board. Using a 1/8" Ball Nose bit and a 1/4" 60° vbit. After drilling all of the board holes with the ball nose we use the vbit to create a small chamfer around each hole. This gets rid of any tear out we had from drilling. The chamfer is small only a few thousandths. After we finish that we use the same 60° vbit to vcarve a design on to the crib...
Cribbage Board CNC Drill And Vcarve Part 1
zhlédnutí 117Před 3 měsíci
This video shows the cnc machining of a cribbage board. Using a 1/8" Ball Nose bit and a 1/4" 60° vbit. After drilling all of the board holes with the ball nose we use the vbit to create a small chamfer around each hole. This gets rid of any tear out we had from drilling. The chamfer is small only a few thousandths. After we finish that we use the same 60° vbit to vcarve a design on to the crib...
Vcarving Spiral Design On Mancala Board
zhlédnutí 105Před 3 měsíci
In this video I am vcarving a spiral background design on a mancala board. I have already 3D carved the pockets for the game with a ball nose bit. Now I am applying the background design of a 3D vcarve with a 60° vbit. Below are the bits I bought and use. This is an unpaid endorsement. Vbit used - Whiteside 1541 V-Groove 60° amzn.to/3RerGS8 Ball Nose - SpeTool 1/4" Ball Nose amzn.to/3yL6dKh CNC...
Cutting out a Music Box bottom with compression bit
zhlédnutí 103Před 5 měsíci
Using a 1/8" compression bit to cut out a Shaker Oval Box Music Box bottom blank. Whew. Say that 3 times fast. I am doing a full .5" DOC at 50IPM 14kRPM with this 1/8" compression bit. The saw dust locks the part in. There is no need for tabs. A real time saver. The bit I am using is a Hozly brand. They are cheap in the 10 pack. You can get them here - amzn.to/496InoQ
Vcarving Text and Flourishes on a Rustic Sign
zhlédnutí 246Před rokem
Cutting the final vcarves on a rustic sign made out of ash wood that I surface planed on my cnc. This video has the wobbles! It looks like my tripod was touching the cnc table. Making for a few jitters. I will make sure that doesnt happen in the future. Bit used - Amana RC-45711 90° vbit 1/4" shank amzn.to/3K0ayvU Bit Inserts - Insert knives amzn.to/3pL3YTg
Surfacing Material for Rustic Sign with Surfacing Bit
zhlédnutí 108Před rokem
Using a 2 inch surfacing bit to plane a piece of Ash with my cnc. It turned out really well and didnt take as long as I thought it would. I was going fairly light on material removal, .125DOC, 12000RPM, 120IPM, step over was 30%. I could have gone with a higher step over but removing that much material gives my little dust collector problems. I had never cut Ash before. I was not sure how it wo...
CNC Engraving Stained Glass
zhlédnutí 518Před 3 lety
This video is really rough. You know it, I know it. Be kind. My first attempt at using my CNC to engrave patterns to use for stained glass pieces. Engraving the patterns worked really well. They were not deep enough to actually use the engraved line to run a score. I have played around with different DOC on the engraving bit. I have not found a setting that works very well yet. That being said ...
End Grain Cutting Board Planing With CNC 2" Spoil Board Surfacing Bit
zhlédnutí 4,2KPřed 3 lety
Thanks for watching. Please Like and Subscribe for more content like this. I am in the process of making six end grain cutting boards for a customer order. They want a vcarve logo on the boards. I figured I would try surfacing these end grain boards with my Nitomak 2" 3 flute surfacing bit. This is a great bit. I use it for flattening slabs and other wood pieces all the time. This should be a p...
Walnut and Pecan end grain cutting board reveal PT1
zhlédnutí 236Před 4 lety
This video is showing the last step in making a cutting board. Finishing. This is one of the first end grain cutting boards I have made recently.
Walnut and Pecan end grain cutting board reveal PT2
zhlédnutí 124Před 4 lety
This is one of my first end grain cutting boards I have started making. This video goes from a dusty wooden board to a beautiful cutting board.
CNC - cutting 3/4" plywood in one pass with 1/8" compression bit
zhlédnutí 45KPřed 4 lety
I searched and searched for a cnc router bit that would be able to cut plywood quickly, efficiently and leave a good cut edge. Do they work? They sure do. I was cutting at full 3/4" depth, 50-70IPM, 18000 RPM. 50-60IPM seemed to leave the best cut finish on my cnc. Video of cutting hardwood Walnut with these same bits - czcams.com/video/sMW4jrSBltg/video.html Compression Bits to cut 3/4" plywoo...
Very nice work great design 👏
very nice,,, just tried my first crib board today but got lots of burning,,, in the holes,, using v carve pro,,,,,
what feed and speeds are you running?
They are in the description.
Very good video. That one i need to
I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself. Thanks for the demonstration!
I actually use these 1/8" compression bits a lot to cut out everything. They work very well as long as you dont push them past about 80-90IPM depending on the material.
@@Knottywoodwork I went ahead and bought them and they've been great.
I bought Hozly compression 1/8” bits and tried as shown above. It worked really nice and clean. No tabs needed but don’t turn on the vacuum when you are cutting. The dust in between keeps the cut parts together!
wow that edge finish is so amazing looks like furniture grade quality! So smooth and straight and perfect. amazing..... :(
This is the type of clip that is going to get people hurt. Better wear safety glasses for when at least SOME people who try this break the bit and goes flying. Rule of thumb never go more than half the diameter of the bit per pass. Obviously that's different with v bits. Just be safe when doing something dumb like this.
I am not sure what you are trying to say here. This is common practice with compression bits. Can you run at 300IPM? No, that will break the bit obviously. Running slower dependent on material is how you need to do this. More like 40-50 IPM.
how do you set it to cut through a 3/4 piece of plywood in one pass?
Huh!?!? 🫠 Make your doc (depth of cut) about .755 & let er rip (go)!!
I've bought the Amazon ones and they are great even in a crappy desktop cnc czcams.com/video/F34oE34SICU/video.htmlsi=LjG1gW6U9RdRwzGN
How many feet of finger joint would you get out of a single bit? I make bee boxes and this would be a game changer if the cost per foot were similar.
I have done 10-15+ sheets and some hardwood projects in between. When you buy them in the 10 pak they are about 3.50$. You cant beat that. 0.35$ per sheet? You have to cut decent plywood though. I had a customer bring their own plywood for one project. About 15 sheets. I broke 3 bits on one sheet. I made him go get better plywood. I think the glue on the stuff he had was different. Much harder or something. Not sure.
I saw this video and decided to give the bits a try. Bought 2 bits for a total of $10 on Amazon. Have only used one of them and did a test cut with some shop jig star knobs cut out of some very old scrap 3/4" plywood. Profile cut full thickness in a single pass - they turned out perfect - cut 16 of them out of 12"x12" piece. I didn't have to use tabs (the sawdust held them in - even thought they were only 2" in diameter - much smaller than the part shown in this video. I followed the guidelines provided for best feeds and speeds, my settings were 18,000 rpm at 55 ipm. Thanks again for helping out the CNC community. This video and info is a game changer for sure!
How many inches or feet would you guess the bit would last in 3/4?
What's your settings to make that ¾"plywood cut in one pass
I have done 10-15+ sheets and then some hardwood projects on top of that. They are worth it. Buy the 10 pack and they are 3.50$ each. You cant beat that.
Are they the same bits on both sites? Big price difference. I'm about to order some off of Amazon, but just want to make sure they are the same.
They are not exactly the same but they are similar and will both do the same job. I like the ones with the longer flute length. I have mostly used the ones from Ebay. The ones in the video are the Ebay bits.
That's what I'm talking about! This is the kind of thing I'm looking to do with a CNC.
What brand name are the bits ?
They are just cheap chinesium bits as far as I know.
holy shit bro!
How many KW the spindle?
3hp
All that packed sawdust equals lots of heat on the bit and such small diameter it’s likely to dull very quick. Just because you can do it doesn’t mean you should do it.
I have done dozens of sheets with one bit. They work very well. Take a look at mini jenny bits. They are much more expensive than the ones I listed but similar usage. This is a thing, it works well.
Can this work on a belt driven cnc router?
I would not recommend it. There are some pretty good pressures being applied to do this at full depth. I am sure you can use the same bits but I would not cut all at once.
Hey, I just got my CNC table and still setting up. Have you tried this on 3/4 MDF....Do you think these bits would have any issues with MDF?
😒 🙄 🤦♂️
Well I bought some of these bits and they are a game changer. I cut 3/4" plywood in a single pass on my CNC and just finished a job cutting 1/2" Baltic Birch as well. Cut at 17000 rpm at 60 ipm (a bit less on the chip load) with out any issues. Nice, clean edges on both the top and bottom and very small dog bones on the inside corners. They pack the saw dust in so no tabs or hold down needed. Thanks again for the video and the info.
What speed and feed are you able to use on MDF at full depth? How long do your bits last?
Just received the bits and they work amazing! Thankyou Did you ever try to cut melamine with them?
Just received the bits and they work amazing! Thankyou Did you ever try to cut melamine with them?
wood thickness ?
As it says in the title - 3/4"
wrong application, use sled over router table and save your self headache and money. this vii is just for sake to make vid, sorry
Why would anyone who owns a large CNC use a hand held router and a sled? Dont be a hater on CNC.
@@mugsy84123 because sled will give you superior and clean box joint, I dont hate CNC im using them since 2000
I did the finger joints just because I was making some bee hive deeps and supers. You can use these for any shape. If you are saying to use a router and a sled I think you are missing the point. I can set up a full sheet and walk away and do something else. Come back and load another sheet. Then go do something else. Why would I want to use a router and sled over that?
Watch how Broinwood does his surfacing cute?
If you started at front right edge traversing left then the leading Vetter edge would cut into the wood rather than cut outwards. You also need to overlap the cut passes. An expanding cut from Centreline would also work clockwise if you could space final cuts to span the edges
I am building a wooden boat. Do you know how to layout/make what someone called "puzzle piece joints"? These are used like scarf joints to make very long pieces of plywood. In my case 19 feet. I have a CNC file for the hull panels, but not the joints.
You can use any shape you want. I have done some with about a .003 offset on each piece using the same vector for inside and outside. They are pretty tight but will allow for some seasonal wood movement.
I use a KRB .500" 2+2 Comp. Solid carbide extended life. Love em!
Verified this works great setup: avid pro 70IPM 16000RPM 1 pass, clean cut
Damn that was loud...lol What kind of rotary mount are you using, and also, would that be suitable for the shapeoko pro xxl?
I would be very interested to see if an upcut spiral bit would work just as well. Have you tried that yet?
Using an upcut bit would defeat the whole purpose of getting a nice edge on both top and bottom. With this type of compression bit you get both.
@@Knottywoodwork Thanks for the response. I make wall mounted wood sculptures. I contact cement plastic laminate to the face of my 3/4" Baltic Birch and then cut the pieces out from the back side with a 1/4" spiral upcut bit. I'm using a Ooze Nest 4'x4' with Nema 23's and very small belts. I need to do 12 passes at about 40 ipm to avoid crashes and broken bits. I was surprised to see you through cutting in just one pass with a small diameter bit. After seeing your video and one other, I think my problem is that my CNC is not beefy enough. When I win the lottery, I may upgrade to an Avid 4'x4'. I may then try a 1/8" spiral upcut as I don't care about the back side appearance.
@@steveborn3455You should easily be able to cut your 3/4" plywood in no more than 3 passes with a 1/8" compression bit, set at 70ipm and 12000 rpm. I do it in 2 passes in prefinished birch plywood.
Which CNC is that
I have an Avid PRO60120(5'x10') with NEMA 34s, 2.2kw spindle and a 4th axis rotary.
It would work on 3/4th depth of normal wood? Like idk pine tree?
I have used it on mostly plywood but it does work on soft and hard woods. You just have to find the right speeds and feeds.
I agree with the responses below on taking a deeper cut and changing direction off the board. I can run the same bit through the same board and get burning at a shallower depth and no burning at a deeper depth, with the depth difference being about 0.02". Not a very intuitive result, but it is repeatable. I screwed around with this often enough that I ended up making an online program to generate the GCode at windridgewoodcrafts.com/utilities/cnc_flat/. I hope it helps.
youtube n people like u gave us so much knowledge... gr8 post more videos....
First thing I wonder about is deflection and accuracy from front to back. When you measure the piece with calipers, how far off is it?
There is significant deflection, for sure, but it seems like something that could be improved upon. Check out the dogbones at 1:50; you can a very obvious visual difference between the definition on the top side of the cut and the bottom side of the cut. However, for the time and material savings (using such a 1/8" tool on 3/4" plywood in a single pass), there are going to be some trade-offs. I imagine this could be improved upon though if the deflection is critical enough to affect your project. Still pretty damn cool.
Are these up/down spiral bits?
Compression. So I believe both up and down. $$&
Yes they are compression bits.
Expensive, Impressive & likely pay for themselves very quickly in saved time & less bit breakage. Though I'm sure that speed & cut depth is from industrial strength CNC and not home/hobby equipment. I wouldn't even attempt that on a plunge router
Why arent you posting more videos.
좋아요. cnc는 자체적으로 만든 것인지요. 멋집니다. 탐나요. 어떻게 만드나요. 판매도 하나요. Okay, so the cc is self-made. That's cool. I want it. How do you make it? Do you sell it?
Looks like a great bit to try, thanks. From the looks of the edge of your plywood you have some chatter going on. Are you able to get smoother cuts by going slower or is this just because it's a rack and pinion drive system?
Good question. At the time I was looking for a way to cut smaller dog bones in flat pack plywood designs and these fit the bill. My machine is fairly rigid. I imagine slower would give a better finish.
Yeah, I have the same brand (an Avid 5'x10' - aluminum extrusion and rack and pinion drives), as well as an Axiom 8 Pro (which is all steel construction with ball-screw drives). So far, the Avid machine actually seems more rigid; the Avid machine's gantry weighs significantly more and has a much more powerful spindle than the Axiom machine - so, increased inertia, coupled with increased cutting torque may just effectively make it more rigid for most projects, even though there's more flex in the aluminum frame than a steel one. All that to say: it's not going to bounce with an 1/8" tool - so the cut inconsistency is likely due to tool deflection. At 1:50 in, you can clearly see a difference in definition between the top side of the dog holes and the bottom side (where the tool would have deflected the most). Either way, pretty incredible to see a 1/8" tool eat through 3/4" plywood in a single pass.
K@@dadealeus
make the pocket larger than the cutting board, have the router change direction off the workpiece
Great work
Thanks
You're not cutting aggressively enough. You need to get into the .004/.006 chip load range. Not sure what your cutter diamer is but my 2 3/8 cutter runs nicely at 200 ipm at 12k rpm which is .0055 chip load. If you don't take a big enough bite you won't get shearing action on the cutter face and you just push the fibers over and generate heat. Try it with a lot less RPM and or higher feeds.
I had the same problem with the Walnut burning. Never found a solution!
Obviously others have had better success than I did. Possibly I need to try different speeds and feeds? Rotate the cutters on the carbide inserts? What worked best for you on your cnc?
How long do these bits last?
I have cut dozens of sheets. I am still using the first bit of 5 I received. So quite a while.
Either 5 seconds or 5 years depending on your skill level.
The sawdust compacts so there is no need for tabs!! What is the cutter spec please and the spindle size? Is there a UK supplier for the cutter/bit?
I do not know where the shipper will ship to. Maybe ask them? The secondary source appears to ship internationally.