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It was around 23 at night. With a slight breeze I actually turned the fan off in my tent. Was very pleasant.

I'll be switching back to the original ones as I'm having a few issues with these actually. I'll try to make a short video update soon

Good info, thanks. I’ve bought a set of five directly from Apex so the spare tyre can have one fitted (I rotate the tyres every ten k or so).

Update: I bought the same kit from dometic and wires directly from my aux battery in my Jeep and it works perfectly. Thank you so much for this video. I thought my fridge was toast but it was just the crappy outlets I bought off Amazon that were the problem. A thousand thank you’s!

Happy to hear my video was able to help you resolve the issue. Thanks for your comment.

3.3ah will be about 39.6watts per hour if you're using a 12v system. How much solar you would need to run that continuous depends on the battery type and size, charger, and solar panel used as well as how much sun you get per day. In order to continue to run the fridge at night make sure the solar is enough to run the fridge during the day as well as top up the battery enough to keep the fridge running at night.

You'll need to account for other contributing factors to energy loss and efficiency like ambient temperatures and weather. For example if you live somewhere that it snows, the fridge will be idle most of the night. If you live somewhere in the desert the fridge may be running all night to keep the same temp. Therefore Power consumption will be different, the same goes for weather conditions. Cloudy weather will yeild less solar input to your battery. That is why it's best to look at worst case scenario, what is the max power draw of the fridge and plan for a battery that can meet that and a solar that can exceed that by twice (so it can run the fridge during the day and charge the battery enough for night)

The STT have a 3ply sidewall and the AT3 have a 2ply. There's no perfect tire. It all depends on your vehicle and the environment you drive in. For example my truck will never see snow conditions and is very heavy. While the tire is amazing for me in the sand my weight does cause the sidewall to still bulge a bit on road pressures. I'm coming up on a year with them soon and I'm extremely happy with them so far. I'm not sure what I would run in the future as I'm not certain there's a better all round tire with comfort, noise, and performance.

@@RoamingDesertDweller thanks for the info. I've been so happy with my 285's that I went ahead and ordered the 37's. Unfortunately it seems as if cooper is not making them any longer. My last set lasted almost 6 years. I expect I will have 300k on my dodge by the time I need to replace these. By that time, technology will have improved and we will have additional options I suppose. BTW I had mine in blizzard and ice conditions with my family in the truck and a full load. not a slip or slide.. fantastic tire on wet, snowy and dry conditions IMHO. I am just now replacing them with 4/32 tread

It will depend on many factors like the location you keep the fridge. For example if its in a hot climate the compressor will be turning on more often. Also if you have the temperature set low like freezing, it will turn on more often to keep it at that temp. But for example if you live somewhere where it snows the compressor might not turn on as often. How often and how long you open the fridge doors will even effect the temperature . So an accurate answer depends on your specific use situation. But with some simple math we can get a rough idea for you. A 1000w lithium system like the jackery is about 83ah. (Watt ÷ 12volts) and worst case If both compartments are set to freezer and running constantly at 7ah you can expect worst to be 11hrs. But more realistically around 4.5a which is 18hrs. If you're in colder climates or have them set to fridge or only using one side of the fridge or are conservative with your use, you'd probably average about 2.5ah and that should give you 30hrs. So short answer, depending on your use you're looking at anywhere from 11hrs minimum to max 30hrs. It's worth noting that dometic also have low voltage shut off for battery protection. This cannot be turned off completely but can be set to low and around 10.5v the fridge will turn off to not damage the battery. I am not aware what voltage the jackery is at when it reads 0% power remaining.

@@RoamingDesertDweller in the SUV then how long will It run continuously? South Asia country

Nothing comes close to the RPV speed. I would say the RPV are probably twice as fast. I haven't timed the RPV yet with the 37s but I will be switching to them soon so will update with times.

I loved the RPV I had on my other vehicle. I'm most likely going to shift these RCV over to my off-road trailer and put the RPV on the truck. The issues faced with the RPV are easily remedied if and when they occur and I think they are a more robust system than these not to mention faster. The more capable you and your vehicle become the more RPV make sense over the RCV. These RCV are a great progression for intermediate offroaders that don't want to fuss with valve stems and don't deflate as often as someone who would use the RPV. My truck however is a dedicated expedition vehicle and I deflate daily and have onboard air so only makes sense to change to the RPV. Happy travels

@@RoamingDesertDweller I had picked up a set of the J.T Brooks. Only because I really didn't want to do debead my beadgrips on a manual Coats 220 tire machine. Since a tire shop installed them (Falcon Wildpeak AT3W). After waiting 5 mins to air down on 33's from 32 psi- 18 psi I was like NOPE! Return. Spent $20 more and wish I did it sooner. I don't want to say I'm a value stem snob but I look around even at Expo East see big tires everywhere and rubber valve steps. Apex makes the best products. Thanks for help others see the path to less time waiting and more time wheeling! 🤣

It's a 0 (zero) offset. I don't have any rubbing or trimming need for daily use and light offroading. But at full flex while turning there is slight rub on the edge of the fender flair where the mud flap would be. So I will put the leveling kit to solve that when offroading.

@@RoamingDesertDweller ahh I see, thanks for the feedback! I’m stuck between 0 offset or -12mm offset methods and also whether I’d have a lot of rubbing issues with the 37s my truck is currently leveled so hopefully not much rubbing if I do go with a -12mm offset, truck looks great with your set up!

​@@efemath6744if youre levelled than you zhouldnt get any rubbing with either 0 or -12 from what ive been told. Im still on stock tremor suspension and i plan to level the front end temporary until i get the carli pintop system.

The compressor is the same so it will consume about 1-2 ah when it's on and at a maintaining temperature. The only difference is that the compressor will cycle on and off less If you only have one compartment cooling. (Also depending on where the fridge is such as back of a car on a hot summer day etc)

Hello. I had to go out and check my box as I recall there being a little book inside. However that book just refers to the cleaning method. Unfortunately they did not include any instructions on how to change the lense over. Checked their website as well but it doesn't have an option for English so I was at a loss when searching the FAQ section. Sorry. If you do find out let me know as Im curious now as well. Looks like it just clips in but I tried to give mine a tug and wasn't able to remove the clear one so you may be right about the plastic tabs on the side of the helmet.

That's tough to say. Checking the sizing guide if you are between small and medium then yes I'd say probably better for a snug fit then a loose one. But if it's possible to find some more info on the brand to see if they are using the same shell and adjusting padding for that size it would be more helpful. I couldn't find that info myself but I've heard of some brands simplifying their manufacturing and using one shell for small and medium and one shell for L to XL and filling the sizes with padding rather than each size having a different shell size.

czcams.com/users/shortsC9oEqMlMbPU?feature=share 鏡片直接拔下來即可。

12v for sure

Check the amp rating on the 12v socket you have it plugged into. I find that most of them are rated to up to 5amp dispute being fused at 10amp. Many outlets will only have a max 5amp output. Your fridge likely maintains a temp and uses around 2amps but will occasionally spike up to 7-9amp for a short period when the compressor kicks on. This spike often causes the outlet to temporarily shut off or not deliver enough power. A good sign this is happening is if you hear your fridge cycling on and off alot without shutting off (loss of power)

I'm not too familiar with the amperage for the 95. But the 75 is pretty similar, 9amp I think is the max amperage for the 75 when the compressor kicks on. Things you should keep in mind are that while the fridge may pull 10.4a like you say it will not do that all the time. It will stay around 2a once it's down to temp and depending on the ambient temperature where you have it will turn on intermediately to keep the temp so amperage will spike only during that time. Most 12v (cigarette) sockets are fused at 10a you are correct but most of those sockets main output is a lot less than 10a. I had this problem with my battery box I built. I would recommend buying the dometic power supply plug they sell. It's cheap and that way you can unscrew the 12v plug and screw it directly into the 12v port so it won't vibrate loose and will get the correct power amp.

www.amazon.com/dp/B07WSXYCR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_QDGJR5N5QJT7386HEG0F

Yes it's much more efficient in DC mode.

@@RoamingDesertDweller appreciate the info! Best wishes

you can use the 12v power cord in the car overnight but depending on your car the 12v socket it is plugged into needs to always be on, some cars turn off power when you remove your key so check on that. You can set the temperature to whatever your preference is however keep in mind it will pull a lot of power when you first start and the fridge is working to get to the set temperature, after it is at temp the power it uses to maintain is quite low. (few amp) if its powered by the same batter you use to start your car be sure to change the battery protection settings on the fridge to high so it will shut the fridge off before it drains your car battery too low to start the car.

Without any solar charging the battery???? Thanks

Yes it is averaging.5-.7ah per day

@@gslse21b per day? That’s awesome

Over a month of non stop battery usage . The cfx3 data shows .5ah per day

I've been using this setup for about 6mo now. I've had a few wiring connection issues (due to my own poor wiring fault) but running the fridge and an led strip light and charging phones etc the worst I've gone down to after a weekend is around 11.8v I'm planning on redoing the wiring and have a fuse block instead of all the power going through a single switch. The battery is working flawless and the victron solar controller I think is the best as it allows me to float charge to the batteries specification etc

@@RoamingDesertDweller Will 200W of solar be sufficient? Or do you think 400W is needed?

yes i noticed that after recording and mentioned it in my update video.

That's fenomenal how many people now making 15 min videos for subject require few sentences. And majority has no basic knowledge about it. " consuming more voltage" I still didn't get what is this unit awerage power consumption in watts.

Argoob sells them here in UAE

No so far all is good. Working great no issues

You are correct. That's about the time I got and explained in my other video 👍

55555

The meat is in the freezer which was set to - 10c and was frozen solid. I simply stated you can set the temperature to anything you prefer. For my personal needs - 10c is cold enough to keep things frozen and 3c is cold enough to keep drinks cool.

-10 C = 14F

@@RoamingDesertDweller and 32 degrees is frozen temp in F. That’s 0 C.

0 degrees is a good idea for long term storage. If you’re camping and plan on eating it within a short period of time, I think you’re fine with anything below 20 degrees.

Which version wont allow you to have both plugs in? This is the CFX3 the newest on the market and i didnt see any sticker or any messages telling me i couldnt have both plugged in, also the plug design is in a way where you can have both in at the same time, so i dont see any reason you couldnt. So far i love the fridge. its super spacious and deep. i like how much function it has with the ability to turn one side completely off or set either sides to fridge or freeze or both the same. I looked at the national luna as well. The main decisions that make you decide what fridge to go for will be different from mine. To me, availability is one (national luna isnt here and would need to be imported) aftersales support for warranty or replacement is important for me. and power consumption. this fridge averages around 2 or 3ah when running both fridge and freezer. its not the lowest but the trade off is its size overall and compressor are compact. also i like that i can take the lids off and reverse them if i prefer to have them open from the other way or change my car setup.

@@RoamingDesertDweller Yeah they had some recall or something like that with the fridge. The manual for the CFX3 75DZ was updated and now says "Do not connect more than one power source to the product at any given time. Electrical system damage can occur and may result in a fire" on page 25 of the AMEA manaul. I saw that issue popup on ExpeditionPortal when Dometic responded to the issue. Apparently if you send it back, it'll just come back with a sticker saying to only use a single power source at once...which is a step back from the old CFX and everything else. Weird to me as well but kind of bummer. I did speak to a large dealer who said it had been "fixed" but wanted to verify it with people actually using it.

Yes that seems like plenty of enough to run continuously without issue.

Just keep in mind you don't have 75ah of usable battery power and the solar power you produce will also depend on the charge controller output and panel pmax power. But it sounds like you would be just fine. When at temp these fridges are pretty efficient. If it'd cold they pull only about 2amp per hr on fridge and freeze mode. If it'd hot out expect much higher. 4 or even up to max 9ah if the fridge is in the back of a truck etc.

It ran for just about 1day and shut off due to the battery protection that was set to low. I ran the test again with another battery setup which I will post maybe tomorrow. Which had interesting results. And now I've decided to go for my own battery solution and custom box and solar charger so I'll make an update video of that whole setup once I finish wiring all the plugs etc.

28hrs*

@@RoamingDesertDweller I hope you can do a video with your final setup. I'm in the USA and bought this same cooler in February 2020 right before the Pandemic as a backup mobile freezer and I bought a 160Watt DOKIO solar panel from Amazon. I have NO IDEA what battery I should buy. My goal is to have the ability to run this cooler for at least 5 days continuously off of AGM or LiFePo with solar panel. Assuming I can get enough daily sun to charge the battery - I was thinking a 100ah Battle Born should be good. I know they are expensive but I am wiling to pay the high price for Quailty. Do you agree that a 100ah BattleBorn will work for my needs? I am only GUESSING and have no idea. Thoughts?? Thanks for the video.

@@CanesFan65 there's a lot of variables. (climate, location of the fridge, how often you open the doors, set temp, etc) that will determine what size battery you need based on your consumption. Keep in mind the larger battery you get the more solar you would need to charge it at the right amperage and longer it will take to get to a full charge during sunny days. But it would seem what you're stating would work just fine in ideal conditions for continuous use