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Yeah I have accidently installed it that way a few times before. Doesn't really make any difference on mine, but on top with the spring is the correct way indeed. 🍻 Thanks for your comment!

Either you got the belt routed incorrectly or make sure you got the belt within those guides around the engine pulley. Check those two things first. The belt may be the wrong size? It should be loose around the engine pulley till you enguage the deck.

Wow! It has been abnormally hot here also. I'm glad you and your dog made the walk. Not very pleasant having a breakdown on a hot day. 🍻

That's great Andy! Other than the IAC, mine has been doing well. Usually in very hot weather it runs kinda ruff, and we've had 96-98 degree days. It has been smooth with no starting problems. The wiring harness was definately my biggest issue when I got mine. Thankfully I got all of that figured out over time. Cheers to you buddy! 🍻

The earlier ones have a different timing belt size is all I am aware of. Otherwise the design is true for all of them I think. It enguages with that rod and not a cable. As long as the enguagement works.

You may have a record use of one of these. LOL

czcams.com/video/lfsbqc6PA4Y/video.html czcams.com/video/5a03yFpokdE/video.html These are the videos I watched to replace mine. Good luck to you! 🍻

The original gas in the tank was old. I purged that, but the carburetor needs a rebuild and clean out. I am currently working on the video for that. In the end I think it will work out to be a great mower for many more years to come. It only has 179 hours on it. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it. 😎

This sensor has nothing to do with your temperture guage. It is a sensor for the ECM to monitor the engine's coolant temperture. If it is defective, it may be telling the ECM wrong info, thus changing the way it manages the engine run. A code 22 will tell you to check it. IF your guage don't work, it is either the sensor for that guage, wiring problem or the guage itself.

You can use needle nose pliers and get on the clip of the cable and release it.

Yeah I still haven't done a proper tune up for this old girl. I'm still trying to decide if I want to do anything else with it or pass it on. Cheers! 🍻

Sorry about that. I am looking at getting some better recording stuff. I appreciate your comment. Cheers 🍻

And the tag n the back is the Jon deere dealer it was sold by

@@davidnagel3995 Good information to know. I've seen them with the James River tag at Home Depot before like this one so I guess they refer service to them. Thanks for commenting! 🍻

No that has nothing to do with it. Either you have a defective fuel guage or the fuel pump has a defective float or sensor.

I don't have a video about that yet. You must have adjusted something too much if the deck won't lock. You may have to back off that adjustment until it will lock again if that is the case. ??? Not sure what you done there. The owner's manual will take you through adjusting the deck, if you don't have one, you can find it on John Deere's website. Thanks and cheers! 🍻

I know lots of people that have these and they are good little mowers to use. They are light and simple, easy to work on. 🍻 Thanks for stopping by Bernie, you have a great channel on here.

Yeah I've been doing a much better job keeping on top of that. Especially on these decks because they are a thin stamp. They will rust quickly and you will be patching holes. They are great tractors for homeowners if you find one in good shape. Generally easy to work on and get parts for. I have the 38" and 42" version of these machines and they do great for me. Thanks for your comment! ☺

You are right-That is the drive belt # for the deck. I must have gotten them mixed up. The OEM # for the serial #'s higher is M150717. Sorry About that. Cheers for the catch. I need to put that info in the comment section. Thanks! 🍻

@@bigalsmallengines no worries, I figured it when the belt I ordered was too long. Great video

@@supastr33t I appreciate it! Thanks. 🍻

AWESOME!!! 🍻

You are welcome! Cheers! 🍻

Makes my day! Cheers! 🍻

You must have one made on a Wednesday.... LOL 🍻 Awesome!

That's great! I'm glad the videos helped with your LT 155. So far this season, mine is working great. Certainly nice to just get on it and mow with no problems. 😎

Great! I hope it works for you. This drove me nuts till I discovered the problem was that choke. 🍻

Look really hard. Should be a small cap with two prongs on top. If it won't turn wedge a screwdriver between the prongs and turn counter- clockwise. Clean the engine. The cap may be covered by debris. 😎

Indeed...LOL

Not sure what you mean... there are two knobs in the back you can adjust for the angle, you may want to experiment with getting your best cut. Mine seems to do best with some slight angle to it. 🍻

That's the answer to my problem

Ok you must not of gave it yet

You may want to check the carburetor. Check that electrically operated fuel shut off valve on the bottom of the carburetor and make sure when you turn the key, the plunger moves in and out. You can hear it click when you turn the key if you listen, If that is defective, it will not have any fuel flow. Make sure you have no clogged fuel lines or air cleaner. Check for spark. Could be any of those issues.

I feel for you buddy. I'm am so glad mine is on the rail like that. I think they changed that the following year after mine in '94. I need to change my fuel pump though anyway. It works fine, my fuel guage is all over the place... LOL Some problem with the send on it or something. 🍻

I agree, and certainly have been staying on top of blowing off my decks at the end of the day. Great advice William 🍻 Cheers!

Yeah the only solution is to replace it unfortunately.

Thanks! I need to get a pair of those. 🍻

Yeah that would be a cool idea really! I was surprised at how good mine done today when I took it out for a real test. It starts easy and has good power. It cuts the grass real well also. I absoultely love this one. Beats a Murray any day! LOL 🍻 Cheers to you!

@@bigalsmallengines Yep. Still using a 1971 Sears Stick Welder. My problem with the typical design is I run into a big clump of weeds or bush or whatever, and I want to lift the front end up with pushing down on the handle bars and set it down on top of the clump like a stump grinder, so I continue on mowing. If you do it like it's designed, you really tear up the area where it handle bars meet the mower manhandling it around. I spend all day today with fresh bolts and an angle grinder repairing all that mess. So now I'm where it was before, but I'm thinking, lets go a step further and reengineer this to be... not the cheapest was to do this, but the most resilient and robust... with a 4 point handle bar to the mower, not 2 point... Stop gap measure until I can bring the riding mower back online, and then the bushhog... one mower at a time, we start with the smallest...

@@choppergirl On my channel here I found a mower perfect for what you are talking about that I did some repair to and got to run. It is a 1979 Lazy Boy mower. It has bars that run down to the deck from the handle and it will allow lift like that to clear brush. It's the only one I've ever seen around here in N.C. I hope you have good luck with your build, I'd like to see pictures when you get it done. May give me an idea to do something like that with a regular mower.

Also, you need to have the air cleaner screw screwed in place for the Pulsa- Jet carburetor to work properly. Make your mixture adjustment on a warm engine with a clean & oiled air filter in place. Make sure the o-ring in the carb isn't hard and it makes a good seal to the intake pipe There were Magnetron coil kits available as a bolt- on to convert to electronic ignition, eliminating the points.

So that would make the engine from 78 if my code were 78012008 I suppose? The closest picture I was able to find of this mower is in the 1968 Sears Spring Catalog. The only thing different is the square top is missing. This is the same type of engine on that mower that it came with, as well as I can see from the pictures. I don't how long Briggs made these type of engines, but I find it hard to believe this engine is from 78, but I know little about stuff from the 60's really. I mostly work on stuff from the 90's and up. It was cool to find it and make it run again indeed. But those were the stamped numbers I found. ???

@@jamesweidinger1117 I used the new seal that came in the Briggs kit, so I think that is working good as far as I can tell. I didn't want to put on the air cleaner until I knew it would start without being primed. After 10 minutes I did install the air cleaner, but it seemed to be good where it was so I didn't adjust it any further. I took the thing out and mowed 3 city yards with it today, and it done great! I absolutely love it! The RPM is a little high when I am full throttle, I just need to adjust that to match that cable adjustment. I am thinking about a rattlecan restoration on this unit coming up.... Thanks for your words, and I will adjust that mixture again to make sure with the air cleaner on. Maybe that is where I am getting the high idle, or I may have bent that adjustment for the governor spring? Cheers! 🍻

The first two digits of the code are confirmed date of engine manufacture, this is somewhat common knowledge with B&S engines. They were making that type of engine in '78. The engine could have been swapoed. The engine seems newer than the deck to my eyes, but I don't know when Briggs started making the up- pull starters. But yes, unless the shroud has been changed that engine was made in 1978.

According to B&S, first two digits of code are year of manufacture, second two digits are month, third pair of digits are day. January 20, 1978 build date. Fourth pair of digits denotes where it was built.

All I've ever had to do is turn the key on and wait about 20 seconds and then crank it over. The line pressure should return to the injectors if you had no problem before.

It makes my day that it helped you out. 😎 Thank you!

Great! Electrical issues are the most common problems with these trucks as they age. 30 year old wiring now. Before you replace a sensor, make sure you have no wiring issues. Some of my codes were bad wiring to the computer. I've had mine 4 years now. Good luck with your Dakota, they are great trucks to drive. Cheers! 🍻 -Al Cox

@bigalsmallengines Ya I found that out. Mine was occassionly not cranking,like no juice from the battery. Luckily we found a hard to see bare ground wire. I teplaced the starter,ignition and battery. It has a few small electrical issues now,like after awhile the wipers will come on by theirselves. I cant complain overall,I paid $1000 for it and it runs really good. Just a spare vehicle and something to do some hauling in.

@@andyr8625 Around a thousand is what I paid for mine. It had been parked for a while. I have actually replaced my computer and went through the 50 wire repair of the Computer Module Connector. That was the first thing I done that made 5 or 6 codes dissappear. That was quite a job though to replace that connector. After that I still pulled codes for this sensor and I had a code for a lean condition. I replaced the fuel injectors and put new connectors on the ends and had my first oxygen sensor replaced. So far after a year, all is good. This is a daily driver for me actually so I just stay on top of the maintaintence now. If anything else happens to it, I will make more repair videos, but hopefully no more... LOL.

@bigalsmallengines Ya I was thinking about possibly replacing the computer before we found the problem. Mine never did throw any codes. Boy you can have endless possibilities of what the problems might be,hard to diagnose.I started replacing parts that didn't really need replacing. Its a crap shoot sometimes,lol.

@@andyr8625 Yeah I quickly found out that one of those codes could be 5 or 6 different things...LOL You could certainly start throwing money at a code. I found that when I moved that computer connector around, it made differences in the way the truck run. I tried to clean the connector but it made no difference, so I ended up thinking it was the Computer and replaced it. But it turned out to be the connector and I had to get another connector from a junkyard and spent a day splicing the wires back to it...LOL Mine rides and drives real smooth is what I like about it. I am around 180 thousand miles, I hope it will last a good bit with the prices of trucks out there now. I use mine daily so I just try to stay on top of it with maintainence for now. Great to hear from you! I hope you'll comment back on here later and let me know how it's doing. 🍻