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Glad it was helpful!

That's a really subjective questions, depends on how far you're driving, road condition in your area, what your tolerance is day to day for 90s era cars. It 100% could be fine for daily driving, I'd daily driven mine for a while and even with the annoying loud aftermarket exhaust and bad transmission its still quite bearable, but long term I'll end up turning it into a weekend and get a new x3 or something for a daily cause I'm getting old and love the mod cons of newer cars.

My auto trans is not great - seems to slip a bit and they have issues with solenoids over time. I wouldn't say they're particularly problematic if you get one that's in decent condition to start.

The one i used in the previous vid was KBS Rust Blast, its a water based convertor specially designed to go under the KBS rust seal, normally i just use a phosphoric acid based one by GPI as its cheap and available in 1lt bottles

Congrats! Good luck with it :)

@@TheBuildRoom thanks 😊

Nothing wrong with zip ties!

Thanks!

What sort of filters? I'm looking to improve the air filtration on mind because it sits so close to where I work and I don't have a lot of room to move it.

@@TheBuildRoom I used two *Solberg FS-06-050 Filter Silencers.* About $22 each on Amazon. They work great but they're rather large. They might be a pretty tight squeeze in your compressor.

Yeah so far no issues with mine - its been great and my ears are no longer ringing.

A local power steering company sourced for me, wasn't expensive and they had it listed.

Go to the Vevor website in your country.

Thanks man! Yeah i'll definitely be doing more with the 3D printer soon. Lots of parts i'd like to replace or improve on, especially in the interior.

@@ben351der1 lol, easy does it Animal, I'm barely even 50!

Yeah that a big increase in scrub radius doing that, used to be something you'd just fix with a large hammer but these cars a too rare to beat on them like that anymore! What size tires are you running front and back?

I think ASA has a slightly higher deformation point form heat, and better UV resistance apparently (I'm no expert) so I figured it was better for this application.

Thanks!

Definitely got me motivated to get some paint on, just need to find the time!

Nvm you answered that later in the video. Looks great!

@@user-nc3gf7ro5x yeah might run the roller over them to see, but likely trimming will have a better result, just more work

@@eugenev6269 lol, I'm sure the residents are still recovering! As for the duty year it was good have it fall my way for a change

@@ChrisDana10 is a wrap! 3m one from memory and I just bought a couple of A4 sheets from ebay 👍

@@TheBuildRoom Thanks Mate! Wheels look sick

@@owenlambert6201 yeah I'm thinking a 265 or 275 might be possible which would be pretty sweet.

@@TheBuildRoom my rear Wats are 14x8 -6. So that’s going to be tricky as the poke is much more than yours. May have to settle with 225 or 235 if I can get them.

If you're looking for just general consumable parts you can try RockAuto in the US, and if you want Celica specialist stuff you can look at ToyHeadAuto

Gracias amigo👍👍

Thanks - yeah lots of people aren't comfortable with spacers (including the cops) - so you're either swapping them around when someone notices or pretty significantly reduce in terms of options. It is however worth reaching out to some of the companies you're interested in getting wheels from for custom offset. Even some of the cheaper places order wheels in that start off as a universal casting which are then machined down, they can sometimes request a set get machined to a specific offset for you (I did this for my old RA23).

That was a new tank 🤣 The oil cooler split shortly after the new tank was fitted and it stained the whole thing. It will be replaced again shortly just because it looks so horrible.

@@TheBuildRoom What gearbox is in that? Proper 3 pedal manual? 2011 12 had a weirdass Manual with Auto function on the 1.4

@@steveans proper 3 pedal, it's showing its age though so it will be back getting a bit of paint and tidying up the interior at some point.

Can't really talk to sandblaster capability as I can't seem to get a gun running effectively with media where i am - nothing seems to reliably fire media so hard to tell if I'm outrunning the compressor or what. I've tried black ridge, ozito and a hare & forbes basic blasting cabinet. What are you using? All mine are cheap but haven't found anyone suggesting home blasters that are dependable so didn't want to throw more money at it until its more of a known quantity.

​@@TheBuildRoomI've only used industrial sized units fed by 3 Phase compressors. The last one was only 15cfM FAD @100 psi with a approx 300L receiver. It was a bit marginal but did the job. The claimed FAD of the hush 150 is 14.5 cfm at 100psi which I would have thought would enough for 'consumer' blasters and their smaller nozzles. Begs the question: what is the ACTUAL delivery of the hush 150? Can you get your hands on a flow meter? That would be a very interesting measurement!

Thanks Mitch - wheel episode is film and almost finished the editing so hoping you guys will be able to see it on friday. It's subjective but I'm super excited about how the car is looking on them.

Nothing ground breaking, just get as many knuckles, extensions and flexis as you can and try and build something up. Remove as much as you can around it too.

@@TheBuildRoom thanks, i think im going to have to remove the coolant reservoir today to get at it better. Car just hit 90k and probably past due for a flush anyways.

Cheers!

Yeah cutting the rest of the sill off next - can't trust it after this one uncovered so much!

@@TheBuildRoomyeah fair call there I would to. And the other side to. Crazy what ya find when you get into it ay

Lots of different things that my cause that - TPS is one, IACV could also be impacting if its not working. How confident are you with the calibration of the TPS also as that is a big deal. If you replaced the TCS and cleaned the IACV you need to do the calibration on idle too. It's a week after you made your comment (sorry I've been flat out) so how did it go after the IACV swap?

Yeah definitely peeling onions on this one - not many big spots of rust but they're looking pretty deep

Thanks!

I use 0.6 wire and try to patch with 0.9mm mild steel. If you're using a 180C Lincoln start on 3-D and then adjust from there.

Lol, I had a look at some SSRs that were available in Perth but wanted something outside the norm on this one...

Thanks Jeff, definitely starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Will definitely be trying some kfvintage repair panels oh the next one!

Haha that's it! Everything I look at that yellow it makes me feel funny.

Thanks 👍

Yeh I've just been picked up in that before because it's in the sills which is considered main structure by some, but it's really dependant on the guy inspecting. Normal body rust is not that big of a deal

Wasn't enough left on my seal to catch the edge with a socket, but good info for people that might not have too much wear and can get it out an easier way 👍👍

@@TheBuildRoom I wonder if I have a didn’t rack version to you because mine had a thick metal washer behind the inner seal which is what helped me knock the seal out from the other side 🤷🏻‍♂️

Good pickup!

Yep it's bee a while, there's another one coming out tonight so stay tuned!

Glad it helped. For the buttons, the only solution was to replace them - you can still get some of the buttons new from Nissan (use Amayama to order) but it's the luck of the draw as to whether your broken buttons are still stocked or not i guess.

Appreciate the support, if the channel grows a bit more I'll look into a store that's a bit more financially sustainable for those that are interested.

Glad it helped 👍

was 170,000 kms (~105,000 miles) - most reports i've heard is that's about the average lifespan as like everything BMW the tight bearing tolerances eventually catch up with it.