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I only played T7 and a tiny bit of T8 on my 8BitDo Arcade Stick - the controller felt good. If this is your 1st arcade stick, I think it's a great start. There are a couple of notes I give to people considering this controller. 1. The controller is 300mm wide and 200mm deep - I have large hands and it feels great to me, but some think it's a bit small. 2. The controller works great on PC and Switch (wired and wireless), but if you need a controller for PS or XBOX, you should consider other brands specifically designed for those consoles. I hope this helps. 🕹️🟣🟣🟣

@@DinodraxChronicles thank you! Im planning to buy 8bitdo or the mayflash f300 and then mod it, is the 8bitdo mod friendly?

8BitDo Arcade Stick is very mod friendly - you can install the standard Sanwa JLF or JLX lever, the Qanba Gravity Silent lever, and Sanwa OBSF buttons easily. Whichever controller you decide to get, play on it for at least 3-6 months before upgrading the components. The stock parts aren't terrible and you will be able to "feel" the difference only if you spend some time breaking in the stock lever and buttons.

@@DinodraxChronicles okay, thanks again for the advice and information!

That's great! Yes, I installed the JOV8S into my 8BitDo Arcade Stick. Good luck with your mod.

I hope you had a great journey!

You're welcome. I am glad the video helped you.

Thanks for the suggestion - I'll grab some Qanba KS buttons next!

If you never used anything else other than Sanwa (JLF or JLX), you may want to try the Qanba JOV8S, but it may take you a bit to get used to it. The JOV8S has a significantly shorter throw than the JLF and the actuation distance is also reduced - some people "love" that about the Qanba joystick. There are two variants of the Qanba Gravity Silent joysticks - the JOV8S uses Omron box switches, while the JCV8 uses the Cherry MX switches. Many prefer the JOV8S variant for fighting games because the switch stems are larger which makes inputs herded to miss. I like both the JOV8S and the JCV8 because they're silent and their actuation distance is short (see the side-by-side comparison with the Sanwa JLF czcams.com/video/ZUwaSFDjSN0/video.html). If you can get a Qanba Gravity Silent joystick on sale (they sell for less than the MSRP on AliExpress), the kit delivers a lot of value with 3 different springs, 3 restrictors, and a very nice ball top. 🕹🟣🟣🟣

It's compatible. The kit comes with everything you need to pop it into your Drone 2.

@@DinodraxChronicles thank you. one more thing, can you tell me what would you prefer? sanwa jlf or this qanba gravity?

@@UnknownGamer_metal Both are good joysticks, but I prefer the Qanba Gravity Silent (JOV8S) because it's quiet, has a shorter throw and actuation distance, and the kit comes with a lot of accessories so I can tinker with different springs and restrictors. I did a sound comparison between the Qanba Gravity Silent and the Sanwa JLF - have a look at czcams.com/video/ZUwaSFDjSN0/video.html

@@DinodraxChronicles thank you sir

The restrictor shape is OK - I use it and it feels good. I just wish Qanba didn't market it as "circle" when it clearly is not perfectly circular - they even show a perfect circle overlaid on top of it on their website. Until Qanba marketing team come up with a more appropriate name, I will continue to call this restrictor shape the "Cu-Qanba".

That's a great question. I'm not sure. I will have to take apart the JOV8S and see what fits. I have a few different quick release shafts I'll try. I'll get back to you on this soon.

@@DinodraxChronicles thank you alot ! i'll be waiting from you :)

Good news - all quick release shafts that are compatible with the Sanwa JLF will fit. I took apart both the Qanba JOV8S and the JCV8 and both shafts are virtually identical to the standard JLF shaft. I'll be installing the JLF version of the PhreakMods Link EX-Groove Quick Release shaft into my Qanba JOV8S.

@@DinodraxChronicles woohoo nice !! i do have PhreakMod QR that i got it from focusattack . I wonders if i can put capsule top on this im sure it fits too ;)

@@samiRetro777 A capsule top should fit beautifully.

🎉

Thanks for the feedback - although music isn't the primary focus of the video, it's very important to have the right music to set the correct mod mood. 🎵🎶

I don't notice any accidental actuations on bounce-back. I am using the light (default 1x) spring that came with the kit, and my controller is slanted slightly toward me - with the joystick angled a bit, gravity may be helping prevent the bounce-back. The switches in this joystick have a stronger spring than the standard microswitches commonly found in Sanwa JLF, and with the shorter actuation distance, the JOV8S may be more prone to bounce-back actuations. If your controller is slanted away (on your lap) try giving it a bit of a tilt toward you or try one of the stronger shaft springs that come in the kit - the 2x or even the 1.5x spring may give it a bit more stiffness and prevent the accidental bounce-back actuations.

The long screwdriver is a 4" Phillips size 2 (PH2) and the short screwdriver is also Phillips size 2 (PH2) but only 1-5/8". Before you get a specific screwdriver, double check that your controller has Phillips screws - some versions of 8BitDo Arcade Sticks use torx screws on the case. Good luck with your mod.

😁

Nakręciłem kolejny film, aby pokazać różnicę w dźwięku - obejrzyj czcams.com/video/ZUwaSFDjSN0/video.html

The cable I ended up using in my video is a "Generic control board 5-pin wiring harness" from CQB Arcade - but you can get it from ANY online shop that sells arcade controller parts. If you want to get it from Amazon, just look up "5Pin XH2.5mm Pitch Cable Plug Female to Female Adapter". This is the EASIEST option for the 8BitDo Arcade Stick if you don't want to rewire the cable that comes with the Qanba Gravity Silent joystick. I still recommend you cut off one of the retention clips on the "generic" cable, so your 5-pin connector fits nicely into the 8-pin connector on the circuit board - there is a segment in the video where I show how that's done (be extra careful when doing that). If you find something online but are not sure if it is the correct thing, let me know and I can have a look. Good luck with your upgrade.

@@DinodraxChronicles ah I see, so technically I can use the wire that it comes with but I have to remove the clips, just as how you showed in the video.

Technically yes - you can use the cable that comes with the joystick, but you will also have to REWIRE the pins on one side of that cable because out of the box it is not wired to suit the 8BitDo Arcade Stick (it's backwards). Getting a new "generic" cable allows you to plug it in either way without having to rewire - the "generic" cable has no "hook" on the joystick side, and you can invert it (plug it in backwards) to suit the 8BitDo Arcade Stick pin order. Either way, when you are plugging in a 5-pin cable connector into an 8-pin connector on the circuit board, you should remove one of the retention clips (just like I did in my video), so you don't force apart the plug on the 8BitDo Arcade Stick. I hope this helps you plan for the upgrade.

@@DinodraxChronicles Hey its me again. something i didnt realize was that I have the xbox version not the one you have. I was wondering if the same method applies with the female to female connector? I hope you could do a tutorial with the same stick and 8bitdo :/

Unfortunately, the XBOX variant of the 8BitDo Arcade Stick uses a different 8 pin connector on the circuit board and is not compatible with the Qanba cable or the "universal" cable I showed in my video. I currently don't have the XBOX variant, so I can't make a video tutorial. Sorry. If I were in your situation, I would probably cut off the cables from the stock joystick, cut off the circuit board plug from the Qanba cable, and then splice the two cables together to make a compatible wiring harness - this is the easiest and quickest option. All you have to do is expose a bit of wire on either end, twist them together, and put a bit of electrical tape over each splice. You need to match each direction - all directions are labelled on the joystick and on the circuit board next to the plug. And because there are 4 ground connections on the circuit board, and only one ground on the Qanba joystick (labelled GND), you only have to splice one ground wire (doesn't matter which) - the remaining 3 ground wires can be cut off or taped shut with a bit of electrical tape (to prevent them making contact with anything inside the case). I hope this quick write up helps you. Good luck.

You're absolutely correct - the noise produced by an arcade stick when playing fighting games is on an entirely different level. The primary reason I would use a silent lever for fighting games is to reduce the number of audible clues your opponent sitting next to you may be listening for - each stick motion produces a distinct microswitch "sound signature" which may be picked up, recognised, and then countered/blocked/avoided by your opponent.

Holy bent bananas Batman - you are correct. That thing is not a perfect circle. Eagle eyes! I measured and inspected the circular gate that came with the JOV8S kit, and it seems it has a bit of a deviation in a couple of spots. It's visible but I am not sure if I would be able to feel it once installed - I'll have to test it out. Usually, the actuator shouldn't "ride" the restrictor gate, but that doesn't mean Qanba should be making their circular gates egg-shaped. I'll get in touch with Qanba and see what they say about this. I do like the lever. It has a short throw, short actuation distance, small dead zone, and it is very quiet - there is no constant clickclickclickclick when I play shmups. Plus, it comes with a nice ball top.

@@DinodraxChronicles I am using a Otto V5 with a circular restrictor and I like to ride the gate when I'm gon to DP from crouch position (↙️ - ⬇️↘️➡️↘️⬇️↘️) having an eggshaped restrictor gate will affect me.

I'll post an update when I hear back from Qanba. I'll try using the circular gate soon to see how the actuator makes contact with it.

@@DinodraxChronicles I've seen many videos of this lever and all look the same the gate is not circular I even found out a review on Ali Express of a guy complaining about the same issue he even aploaded a picture of the restrictor gate and it is not round 360

I got a response from Qanba and I did some measuring and investigation about the Gravity V8 "circle" restrictor. Have a look at the video I just posted - it's a quick summary. czcams.com/video/8Y4sbh5uSW8/video.html

Nice. I have been meaning to try the LS-56-01 mainly because of the "stiff" spring and the short throw/actuation distance. Thanks for the reminder - I will have to pick up one soon.

Thank you! Cheers!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you for the feedback - I really appreciate it. This type of input helps me improve over time.

Great suggestion! I'm using the lowest tension spring that came in the kit and it feels a bit tighter than the default spring that ships with the Sanwa JLF. The kit also comes with a "1.5 times elasticity" and a "2 times elasticity" springs - I haven't tried those yet.

@@DinodraxChronicles I've always been a fan of very stiff or high tension sticks. I'm currently using a Seimitsu LS-55 and love how it springs back into place! You definitely don't get that from a Sanwa JLF.

The Qanba Gravity Silent joystick with Omron grey switches (JOV8 and JOV8S models) feels different than Sanwa JLF or other similar joysticks - it has a shorter throw and actuation distance plus it's super quiet. Out of the box it also feels a bit stiffer than Sanwa JLF. I think it would be a good upgrade, but it may take you a bit to get used to it. If you can get it from AliEx for a discount, I think it's worth trying it. Have a look at the video I just posted that compares the Sanwa JLF and the Qanba Gravity Silent joystick - it touches on a few things I mentioned above. Good luck with the upgrade.

I think it's worth it - especially if you can get it from AliEx for a discount. In my video I showed the JOV8S variant that has Omron grey switches, but there is also the JCV8 model that uses Cherry MX Speed Silver switches. Good luck with your mod.

You're welcome! Good luck with your mod.

@@DinodraxChronicles Thx!

I'm glad you liked it!

Thanks for the suggestion. I did consider soldering to the "spare" pads, but I chose to use the "5-pin to 8-pin connector hack" because it's quick, allows swapping between different joysticks easily, and it's a low risk maneuvre (no heat required). I found that with only one retention clip cut off on the harness 5-pin connector, the remaining clip provides enough grip to ensure the connection is secure enough.

Thank you 👍

Glad it helped