Video

Yes thats right - you're flying very high in the throttle. I must admit I just tried this as an experiment to see if it was possible. So yes possible and a lot of fun - but maybe not practical.

Thanks - I also refered to it too when remapping on BF4.3. Easier than remembering.

Thanks for letting me know. I've added the purchase link now in the description. Sorry i don't have any print files for this peoduct. I am the reseller not the manufacturer.

Yes it's amazing and scarry at the same time how good AI is getting. Songs are just the start.

This tool is for the DJI FPV system. It doesn't work with a DJI camera drone.

@@MicronWings oh! Not even for the DJI Fpv drone ?

Thanks for your comments. I'll try using a lower setting on my next battery build. Also sorry for my pretty bad performance - I'm always trying to make my videos better.

Sorry I didn't get the meaning of your comment. But if you were referring to why I used a soft serial, I needed 1 more UART than what the Tinyhawk board had available.

Thanks for your input - a good point there - the mount can indeed also be a cause of jello. In my case even in faster flight I am not getting jello, so I think in this case the cause was the props.

No you need to use a reg poswered from Vbatt. These LEDs pull more amps than the 3.3volt rail can usually supply. 3.3 volt rail is intended for low current draw things such as GPS and Rx.

One of the best 3.5 inch frames is actually the one i am showing here - the GEP RC 3.5 inch. It's an older frame and great for analog. It's also suited for 19mm cameras which I like. I like this frame because its a short frame and you can stack components and keep the mass central. I fly HD but with analog the all up weight should be even less. I would go with an AIO board - any 35 amp AIO is fine. I've been using AIO in 3.5 inch for a long time with no problems. I use Xing 1504 3100KV motors even though others reccomend more powerful motors. These motors are good and the power and resoution in the throttle of these smaller motors is good for freestyle. Larger motors of course are more powerful but that doesn't help with fine resolution in the throttle that is needed for freestyle. I use an 850mah 4S cell with 3520 3 blade props and he a good 4 and a half minute flight time. Take a look at this resource on my website to see what motor, battery and prop combos are good for 3.5 inch freestyle - cubefpv.com/motor-sizes-3-5-inch-freestyle/

Also, I can't seem to find that exact spot welder, would you mind sharing a link for it too?

My soldering iron is a Pine brand pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/ but others like the TS101 are more popular these days www.getfpv.com/miniware-ts101-digital-oled-smart-soldering-iron.html I can't find the Ebay listing for the welder i bought but this one is similar. www.ebay.com.au/itm/285048979466?itmmeta=01HQVF0N7KWRV93E0VX8S8EQHK&hash=item425e3e400a:g:WFgAAOSw~6phnwL5&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwK%2BnJOgfdwPXUiSZlekKL1Qmg5TfpZQfuiOql%2FWNWe17wvS9pQXaRUu40VSXGbZ5UdZw4rgEqHileayfAQAW%2FvolGuzqJb%2FG3woZck9OBsQT6eLTVZIeSu6%2Bjut2RWVZlIy89SinzOLhbcIjMHw6dOh9DxUMzkWrJWeauJBvTsjNzJDWelroLAaKddMBIcBSAHKLjhmLxHsc5MHwPPG6DvhE2zbtvJZkmFgvKXqKnmmMKPK6wVKpboMWg4ohpYPU3A%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-7Tgu--Yw @@aaronmastropaolo4674

Good point - I forgot to mention in the video that you need to use sandpaper to buff up the terminals before soldering and use flux.

For soldering you need a very powerful iron to get the heat in in a short time, so you don't stress the cell to much with overheating

Yes the larger iron tip will make all the difference - it's so much easier.

Thanks - Yes I saw his video and thought No that's not how you do it. 🤣

The FC and Motors are both okay with 2S voltage so no real mods necessary.

@@cubefpv so just find a way to connect li ion batteries and it will fly?

It will fly but it's very heavy. All you can do is hover and fly slowly. You can do it but I don't recommend it.@@swimbeyonder

Sorry I'm not selling these any more. You can download the cad file here if you want to cut your own - cubefpv.com/tinyhawk2-feeestyle-flight-controller-adapter-mount/

My Goto frame fro 3.5 inch these days is the GEPRC Smart35. cubefpv.com/home/resources/scratchbuildguide/ cubefpv.com/product/fpv-frame-geprc-gep-st35-smart-35-3-5-inch-freestyle/ It's been around for ages but it's still the best. Oh also HappyModel has brought out a V2 Crux35 and that frame has been improved without the weakness of the V1 frame. I think they removed those holes at the base of the arm. Currently you can only get that frame as a bind n fly (with HD Zero) but they will probably start selling the frame kits soon too.

@@cubefpv Thanks Bro, by the way the New Crux35 V2 frame is just as weak and breaks! I’ll check out your go to frame an see what that looks like, 🙏

not sure - i don't have any experience with making chrome extensions.

Sorry that woudl be a lot of work - Basically rewriting the script because the air unit and DJI camera drones srt files are very different. In the world of FPV people have moved on to other tools to extract this data so i'm not doing any more work on the file.

I'm not sure what is happening there. Actually i have not used this ESC software for over a year. These days everyone is using Bluejay instead.

Oh thanks - no one else said anything. I've got them on the way now - sheould be a few more weeks.

I haven't had any bad crashes with this frame so far. I doubt it would bend in a low impact crash the sort you would have flying cinematic style. So I don't think this would be an issue. It's more of a point to consider in a freestyle frame.

Mosfets are hard to replace. You need a soldering re-working station with a hot air blower. Even then it's difficult. Probably easier to replace the board. Or maybe look at moving up to a more modern frame with a standard mounting pattern like 20x20.

I used a Mount adapter to mount a 20 x 20 AIO flight controller. But this makes it a very tight build. You will have trouble fitting everything in.

@@cubefpv i’ll just go with the Darwin FPV baby ape

yes good choice - the TinyHawk2FS is a bit outdated now. @@koycdjartage2571

Go for 70mm - but remember these leds pull a lot of current - you're going to get shorter flight times. Also voltage is strictly max 3.3 volts. They will burn at 4.2 (1S) volts.

Another disadvantage of series resistors is of course that the luminosity of the LEDs decreases when the battery voltage drops from 4.2 to 3.2 V...

Thanks for the info and insight. I'll look into these LEDs more about whether they are CPb or filament. I don't produce these - just reselling them. They do indeed get duller as the battery voltage decreases.

Thanks - The weight is 145 grams with the Runcam Thumb but no battery. Jello is probably because of thre mount - I really want to try it with an 03 camera. I'm currently looking at blackbox logs and doing some tuning.

This frame is not the best for durability. It has mount holes right near where the arm joins the main frame and that is a weak spot. For 3.5 inch freestyle I still recommend the GEPRC Smart35. Also, go with LiPo batteries not LiIon. LiIon batteries (18650) are best used for long range drones.

yes sorry for that - trying out new audio settings. I've got it right now.

the 1504 at 3100KV is just right for 3.5 inch and 4S 850mah. I think it would be good for 4inch too. I did try the 3900kv motors too and they were fine. But i just felt that the higher KV was too powerfull. the 3100KV gives me more resolution in the throttle and better for fine movements.

@@cubefpv thank you for the detailed reply! What do you think, this little motor would handle 5S too? :)

I'm guessing as the specs say 3-6S... :o

5SW is a bit of an inbetween battery size. Mostly people are either using 4S or 6S. Take a look at this resource on my website. It shows what size motors manufacturers are using for various size quads. cubefpv.com/motor-sizes-main-page/@@szaszbulcsu

Yes specs say 3 to 6S but I feel this KV is better suited to 4S. @@szaszbulcsu

Yes I sell these in my FPV store here - cubefpv.com/product/prop-puller-remover-for-whoops/

thank you@@cubefpv. looks v interesting. The central pin is replaceable?

No it's not@@PeterSpringhall