Video

Not yet!

Thanks!

Petz Reverso on tie in points.

Rappelling past a knot on 2 strands is explained in the full online course.

Why is that different than the atc case? A prussic above should grab two stands just fine

Passing a knot is much more common when rappelling fixed lines, so the more frequent scenario will be a single rope rappel as shown

There are many different terms for 'prusiks'. To clear things up: The French prusik (also known as the 'Auto-block') is the only prusik (also known as 'friction hitch') this video. The Machard knot (also known as the 'Klemheist') is not used in this video. You could use the Machard knot if you want, but it's near impossible to release when you're weighting it. The French prusik is significantly easier to release in this situation.

You have the clove hitch as backup if the prusik fails

there s no reason it could fail

@@felixbub144 dont say that. There is a reason we have redundancies. maybe the prussik in principle is bomber. but a beginner may not wrap enough, tie it wrong, cord could be damaged.... most cases redundancies protect against user error not gear error.

@@AndrewHavranek-gt4zi rope ist t redundant einher. If the Cord geht s damaged the rope we ll most likely be too. If the hitch starts to slip you end up 5 cm bellow on the knot you were trying to pass

@@AndrewHavranek-gt4zi you do also weight it before unclipping your rappel device/ backup so you def checked it s function before

Thanks!

No lo siento, no está disponible en español.

Wow, thanks!

Thanks!

Hi Fabian, thanks for your feedback. You're right. I once used this setup to rappel with 150+kg of haulbags during a big wall solo descent. When I stopped rappelling, the haulbags would continue rappelling themselves and it was very difficult to control because they were literally twice my weight. After that first rappel I switched to system where the prusik was attached to the central system, as you pointed out, which was much better with a heavy load! This isn't an issue with climbers who are approximately the same weight, though. There are many ways of connecting 2 climbers to one device. This video only shows one example of the setup, which is simple and works fairly well in many cases. There are pros and cons to every method, so we can't say that one is the 'right' way. I just thought this was a good one to share with people. I would love to add a whole bunch of alternative methods in future videos (I'm a super-geek) to make this much more comprehensive. I appreciate your constructive feedback, thanks!

what "central system" means in this regard?

@@alessandroiotti8620 the system where the load of both climbers is fully shared. In the example, only the karabiner with abseil device shares the load

@@vdiffclimbing Even with climbers of similar weight, you can quickly end up in the problematic situation I mention (for sure not an edge case). Since you are demonstrating this method in a rescue-context, you should opt for applying a technique which minizes the risk for additional complications.

Thanks @@fabianpoels2728 . I have just been to a self-rescue course here in Italy on these topics. For descending with an injured partner we placed braking device on belay loop of our injured partner located above me. I connected myself to the injured partner with two opposing quickdraws (to keep distance short and avoid possible openings). I have prusik on my belay loop. I basically hang myselt directly to the belay loop of the injured partner which has breaking device on him. I decide speed of descending by releasing the prusik on my belay loop. We pratice the descend and it was smooth. Does that sound right according to the complications you mention?

Do both of those things. Smearing your feet works better on less-than-vertical rock or if you are wearing flexible approach shoes. Having the tip of your shoe against the wall works better when wearing more rigid boots. Imagine how you would place your feet when free climbing - it's kinda similar. It takes a lot of practise, have fun!

Not really any useful numbers. When you place a head, you're deforming it so much that test pulls in a lab setting are meaningless. Every placement needs to be tested individually (just like any other hard aid placement). Got to know how to bounce test your new placement, without risking shock loading your previous piece. You can certainly test the loop end of a home-made head to see how strong that swage is, but testing the business end is kind of pointless.

Thanks Michael! More videos coming soon..

Thanks Jeff!