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Just starting out with a 1/2 inch and need 1/4 for my set I bought. Amazing why they make it so difficult to change them out.

The problem is not overdoing it and under-dimensioning your wood I find anyway.

Well done.

Genius. Thank you

Thank you Sir.🎉

Thanks for another great video!🇦🇺👴🏻

I was having trouble with my wobbly saw, maybe it's the saw I'm using. Thanks for showing how to do this, let me try a different saw.

You just ruined the video at the end saying "once in a lifetime"you need to flatten the back.How about Japanese chisels that have a deliberate hollow to allow for the fresh flattening and also to prevent any rocking.The Japanese do not align their chisel backs with the handles either . So making a very slight micro bevel on the back of western chisels is miles closer than a Japanese chisel .Chisels are not planes and the backs will always wear down just like the bevel . Show how you flatten a back that is not already hollowed.

Thanks homie nice video exactly what i needed on this cold Saturday night have great day

Thank you for doing this video.

Thank you from Uruguay.

Thanks Chris...appreciated

Absolutely worked, simple but perfect.

Hi Chris,I subscribed and want to find,"how to adjust" plane.Thank you

I hope this will work for me with my Triton router. Thank you mate

The Devil is in the Details and Chris is a Demonic Master of Joinery Execution. Long Live Chris Tribe! Amen.

Why do you think it is necessary to start with 80grit on a new chisel, I would expect the machining to be closer to 180grit, it seems counter intuitive

Why wouldn't I just use a plane? What's the advantage of using one of these cards?

Use 2 water stone on on each other.

removal of a collet from a WOOD storage piece... not rusted into a used router!

Thanks mate, this is by far the best video on CZcams for learning how to sharpen chisels...all the best Pal 👍

I’ve done a few weekend courses with Chris,he’s a very talented cabinet maker,a great teacher and decent guy also. Howard 👍.

I’ve been racking my brain over what to do about my first cheap bench plane…. Thanks for adding some clarity

Good advice. Like a lot of things in the trade I have adapted over the years. For more years than I remember I made do with one stone a Norton combination that I made a coffin box at College and still have it along with a replacement stone same ilk but not used. Now I have Diamond stone combination 350/1000, Water stones 3000/7000. I still use sandpaper from time to time and stopped free hand and went over to a Veritas Mk II along with some its attachments especially in narrow chisel honing. Tried a few honing guides from cheap to dear and settled on the one mentioned. Again like a lot of things in Wood tools it is down to preference and how you want your tools to be. My journeyman and other old Joiners would be amused at what goes on now as best practice a Norton combination done their needs and grit choice was not a big part of sharpening, it was to get an edge that did not chip or loose its hone. Its been like that back to the first person who cut wood and needed to fashion it.

the collet and bit both get stuck in the router. both 1/4” and 1/2” collet setups get stuck in my milwaukee router. it’s all looks smooth, and clean but gets stuck. the nut slips off the collet now where it did not do that before, i’m installing it into a nice JessEm lift, and thus is going to be a nightmare if it gets stuck. the one thought i have us that they call it is stuck in the collapse position. That’s why the collet is not holding onto the nut anymore. i don’t think the tension from the collet is enough to release itself from the router because it’s a taper and not, let’s say a 45 degree angles where it could push itself out. this is do baffling. please let me know if you have any thoughts on this. thanks for the video.

I just use a small smooth rock or a small hard Arkansas whetstone to flatten my man made whetstones lol 😂

Excellent content so good and well explained I now understand the importance of face side and face edge And why it’s critical that they are on they inside, because that is where the mating faces (of the joints) are Outside faces are just open to fresh air so to speak more for aesthetic value than accuracy Thank you 🙏 Quick question. Would you ever make a square corner and mark it up, and reference from it?

Perfect! 👍🏻

The algorithm sent me in your direction 👍

I saw your book in the local library yesterday, so borrowed it. Thanks

Can you get away without a mortise marking gauge ?

This is a very helpful video. Thank you 😊

Fascinating, thanks. Do all types of wood have some type of figuring (depending on the cut) ? or just some ?

Very nice, Thank you. Question: I've always maintained a curve on the front of the cap iron, It never occurred to me, to make the very front flat, as you did, I will try it. Do you notice a difference, or is it just the way you prefer to do it ? Also: You picked up a new subscriber, thanks again.

Excellent video. Thank you for your patience, clear demonstration and for sharing your expertise. I shall follow your advice and practice to (hopefully) enhance my own skills.

Hi Chris, thanks for this video. My 1/2" collet is actually stuck inside the Router Spindle. The Bit has come out easily enough but the collet is stuck firm. The Router is brand new, I've only used it twice. Have you any idea how I can remove the collet without damaging it?

As always, proper set-up is key. Thanks for posting.

Can u define 1 face side and 2 face edge please

Thanks Chris. Nice close ups!

Just wanted to chime in and say thanks for this, as a new woodworker learning on my own, information like this is invaluable.

excellent instruction, thx 👍👍

This is amazing using hand tools. Way too difficult for my skill level. I will use the Sliding Miter Saw and chisel. Thanks

I’m on my way to collecting and learning to use hand planes. Very helpful. Thank you.

Thank you!

FOCUS FOCUS FOCUS FOCUS WTF ?

Great guide from Chris

Thanks

Thank you, this works a treat.

Çok güzel olmuş ellerine emeğine sağlık.👏👏👏👍