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Chris Tribe
Registrace 8. 06. 2011
Chris Tribe offers courses in various aspects of woodwork from his workshop in Ilkley. Chris is a professional furniture maker with a passion for passing on his skills through his teaching. The videos on his channel give a taste of his teaching style.
How to Weave a Danish Cord Seat - Part Two
In this part we complete the weaving started in part one by weaving the weft (side to side cords) and apply a shellac sealer.
zhlédnutí: 4 405
Video
How to Weave a Danish Cord Seat - Part One
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 2 lety
Takes you through setting up for weaving - what the cord is made of, positioning of "L" nails and suppliers of cord and nails. Then shows how to start the warp (the front to back strands). Part two completes the weaving with the weft (cross strands) and sealing the cords.
Some tips on chisel technique.
zhlédnutí 4,6KPřed 4 lety
Being able to use a chisel preficiently is a basic woodworking skill but many people have trouble working accurately and cleanly. Here I show how to improve your chiselling technique to get accurate flat faces. There is nothing quite like the sound of a sharp chisel slicing crisply through wood so good technique also makes woodwork more fun.
How to assemble and adjust a woodwork plane.
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 4 lety
Want to get beautiful fine shavings swishing from your woodwork plane? This video shows how to assemble the plane after sharpening and then adjust it to achieve just that. #chrisonsharpening #toolsharpening
How to use a cabinet scraper.
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 4 lety
You should be getting lovely clean shavings from your cabinet scraper. If not there's something wrong, this video shows you how to get good shavings not dust.
How to detect grain direction and work with it.
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 4 lety
Keep getting tear out because you can't work out the grain direction? This video will show you how to read the grain direction and avoid tear out.
Figure in wood explained
zhlédnutí 3,8KPřed 4 lety
Explains the important difference between FIGURE and GRAIN in wood. What creates the figure that makes wood such an attractive medium? What is SAPWOOD and HEARTWOOD? How do MEDULLARY RAYS form the amazing patterns in quarter sawn wood.
Making a cantilevered wine bottle holder - an exercise in laminating.
zhlédnutí 26KPřed 5 lety
How to make a cantilevered wine bottle holder using bandsawn laminations bent in a workshop made former.
More on spoke shaving.
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 5 lety
More detail on spoke shaving technique, particulalry relating to the shaping of a chair crest rail.
Spoke shave technique
zhlédnutí 31KPřed 5 lety
The spoke shave is a beautiful tool to work but difficult to master. This video will help you to make friends with your spoke shave so you can create lovely flowing forms.
How to use a marking gauge - avoiding a choice of wobbly lines! (+vol)
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 5 lety
The marking gauge is a simple looking tool for marking straight lines in woodwork, but many find it difficult to control, often producing 2 or more wobbly rather than straight lines. Here's some tips to help you master the marking gauge. Visit www.christribefurniturecourses.com/ for more tips. Following comments about low audio volume on the original video this is a reload with increased volume.
Seven tips to improve your woodworking accuracy
zhlédnutí 12KPřed 6 lety
Do your joints never quite fit as you would like? You probably now it's all about accuracy but can't quite work out how to improve it. Here I explain seven ways to up your accuracy.
How to veneer a quartered burr panel - wood veneer project
zhlédnutí 2,8KPřed 6 lety
Visit www.christribefurniturecourses.com/ - A detailed description of how to match, joint and lay a quarter matched burr panel. Additional information on patch repairing veneer and jointing veneer on a shooting board.
Why face side and face edges are so important
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 6 lety
Establishing good face side and face edges and sound notation are vital to good work, here I explain why.
What to look for when buying second hand woodwork planes.
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 6 lety
You can get good woodworking planes by buying second hand but you need to know what to look for. Here I give a few pointers for avoiding the turkey's.
All about the Bailey pattern woodworking plane - taking apart and reassembly
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed 6 lety
All about the Bailey pattern woodworking plane - taking apart and reassembly
How to cut a mortice and tenon by hand
zhlédnutí 12KPřed 8 lety
How to cut a mortice and tenon by hand
Honing - how to get a really sharp edge in under 30 seconds. (The short version).
zhlédnutí 12KPřed 8 lety
Honing - how to get a really sharp edge in under 30 seconds. (The short version).
How to make your extractor bags reuseable
zhlédnutí 14KPřed 8 lety
How to make your extractor bags reuseable
How to flatten the back of a chisel or plane iron.
zhlédnutí 41KPřed 9 lety
How to flatten the back of a chisel or plane iron.
Honing - How to get a really sharp edge in under 30 seconds.
zhlédnutí 66KPřed 9 lety
Honing - How to get a really sharp edge in under 30 seconds.
How to build a router cabinet with extraction box and rise and fall jack. Part one.
zhlédnutí 11KPřed 10 lety
How to build a router cabinet with extraction box and rise and fall jack. Part one.
How to edge joint boards - planing, biscuiting and glue up
zhlédnutí 23KPřed 10 lety
How to edge joint boards - planing, biscuiting and glue up
How to make a router table fence.m2ts
zhlédnutí 170KPřed 11 lety
How to make a router table fence.m2ts
Just starting out with a 1/2 inch and need 1/4 for my set I bought. Amazing why they make it so difficult to change them out.
The problem is not overdoing it and under-dimensioning your wood I find anyway.
Well done.
Genius. Thank you
Thank you Sir.🎉
Thanks for another great video!🇦🇺👴🏻
I was having trouble with my wobbly saw, maybe it's the saw I'm using. Thanks for showing how to do this, let me try a different saw.
What do you mean by a "wobbly saw" Ignatious? Is it a problem with getting it to saw straight vertically? Sometimes this can be because the teeth are sharper on one side, usually due to hitting a nail perhaps.
You just ruined the video at the end saying "once in a lifetime"you need to flatten the back.How about Japanese chisels that have a deliberate hollow to allow for the fresh flattening and also to prevent any rocking.The Japanese do not align their chisel backs with the handles either . So making a very slight micro bevel on the back of western chisels is miles closer than a Japanese chisel .Chisels are not planes and the backs will always wear down just like the bevel . Show how you flatten a back that is not already hollowed.
Thanks homie nice video exactly what i needed on this cold Saturday night have great day
Thank you for doing this video.
Thank you from Uruguay.
Thanks Chris...appreciated
Absolutely worked, simple but perfect.
Hi Chris,I subscribed and want to find,"how to adjust" plane.Thank you
Hi Martin, sorry about the delay in replying, only just spotted your query. In this video I show how to set up and adjust a plane czcams.com/video/Vz8rjp5Ehx0/video.html
I hope this will work for me with my Triton router. Thank you mate
The Devil is in the Details and Chris is a Demonic Master of Joinery Execution. Long Live Chris Tribe! Amen.
Why do you think it is necessary to start with 80grit on a new chisel, I would expect the machining to be closer to 180grit, it seems counter intuitive
It's not so much to do with the scratch pattern as the flatness. Fair enough on a new Lie Neilsen or other up market tool which will be pretty flat you could start with a finer grit but many new chisels are not particularly flat so you need a courser grit to achieve flatness quickly. It doesn't take long to work through the grits once you have achieved the initial flatness.
Why wouldn't I just use a plane? What's the advantage of using one of these cards?
Use 2 water stone on on each other.
removal of a collet from a WOOD storage piece... not rusted into a used router!
Thanks mate, this is by far the best video on CZcams for learning how to sharpen chisels...all the best Pal 👍
I’ve done a few weekend courses with Chris,he’s a very talented cabinet maker,a great teacher and decent guy also. Howard 👍.
I’ve been racking my brain over what to do about my first cheap bench plane…. Thanks for adding some clarity
Good advice. Like a lot of things in the trade I have adapted over the years. For more years than I remember I made do with one stone a Norton combination that I made a coffin box at College and still have it along with a replacement stone same ilk but not used. Now I have Diamond stone combination 350/1000, Water stones 3000/7000. I still use sandpaper from time to time and stopped free hand and went over to a Veritas Mk II along with some its attachments especially in narrow chisel honing. Tried a few honing guides from cheap to dear and settled on the one mentioned. Again like a lot of things in Wood tools it is down to preference and how you want your tools to be. My journeyman and other old Joiners would be amused at what goes on now as best practice a Norton combination done their needs and grit choice was not a big part of sharpening, it was to get an edge that did not chip or loose its hone. Its been like that back to the first person who cut wood and needed to fashion it.
the collet and bit both get stuck in the router. both 1/4” and 1/2” collet setups get stuck in my milwaukee router. it’s all looks smooth, and clean but gets stuck. the nut slips off the collet now where it did not do that before, i’m installing it into a nice JessEm lift, and thus is going to be a nightmare if it gets stuck. the one thought i have us that they call it is stuck in the collapse position. That’s why the collet is not holding onto the nut anymore. i don’t think the tension from the collet is enough to release itself from the router because it’s a taper and not, let’s say a 45 degree angles where it could push itself out. this is do baffling. please let me know if you have any thoughts on this. thanks for the video.
Hi Gino. I am not sure that I fully understand the problem. However I do know that there can be problems with the collet sticking if you do not fully insert the collet into the nut before screwing it on. The collet should click into place, this may require some effort, perhaps pressing down on the nut with the collet on a firm surface. If you don't do it that way and instead put the collet into the shaft then screw the nut on it will force the collet into the taper causing it to stick. Hope that helps but not sure it does!
I just use a small smooth rock or a small hard Arkansas whetstone to flatten my man made whetstones lol 😂
Excellent content so good and well explained I now understand the importance of face side and face edge And why it’s critical that they are on they inside, because that is where the mating faces (of the joints) are Outside faces are just open to fresh air so to speak more for aesthetic value than accuracy Thank you 🙏 Quick question. Would you ever make a square corner and mark it up, and reference from it?
Thanks for the question David. I am not sure what you mean by a square corner. Early on in the vid I talk about creating two faces square with each other but I guess that is not what you are asking. If by square corner you mean squaring up an end then yes, after creating face side and edge and dimensioning width and thickness I would then cut to length, squaring the ends to the face side and edge. I using hand tools I would use a shooting board for this. Not sure it that answers your question.
@Chris Tribe Hi Chris thank you for replying, Yes squaring one end or both ends is what I meant (sorry I didn’t explain myself very well in my original question) you answered it perfectly anyway. I enjoyed your video and I look forward to watching more, thank you for sharing you skills an$ knowledge.you have my admiration
Perfect! 👍🏻
The algorithm sent me in your direction 👍
I saw your book in the local library yesterday, so borrowed it. Thanks
Can you get away without a mortise marking gauge ?
Yes. It's just a bit more time consuming. You could make the marks for one side of the mortice and tenon then reset the gauge to do the other side. You should get a well fitting joint as long as you make sure to do all your marking from the same face.
This is a very helpful video. Thank you 😊
Fascinating, thanks. Do all types of wood have some type of figuring (depending on the cut) ? or just some ?
Very nice, Thank you. Question: I've always maintained a curve on the front of the cap iron, It never occurred to me, to make the very front flat, as you did, I will try it. Do you notice a difference, or is it just the way you prefer to do it ? Also: You picked up a new subscriber, thanks again.
Excellent video. Thank you for your patience, clear demonstration and for sharing your expertise. I shall follow your advice and practice to (hopefully) enhance my own skills.
Hi Chris, thanks for this video. My 1/2" collet is actually stuck inside the Router Spindle. The Bit has come out easily enough but the collet is stuck firm. The Router is brand new, I've only used it twice. Have you any idea how I can remove the collet without damaging it?
Oh Dear Peter! I had this happen to me once before but unfortunately cannot remember how I solved the issue. I wonder if you could tighten a small jubilee clip (as they are called in UK) round the collet to squeeze it up and so loosen it in the spindle. This problem can arise if you don't engage the collet with the collet nut before assembling. You should be able to press the collet home in the nut and hear it click into place then screw the nut on the spindle. If you just place the collet into the spindle then tighten the nut over it you can get the stuck collet problem. Not sure how helpful that was, please let me know how the solve it.
Peter, I have the same problem with a brand new router.
Well I solved my issue. I loosened the nut almost all the way before it comes off, then tapped on it with a wrench. After tapping several times on the nut from either side, the collet came loose and I could then slip a bit in.
@@Mike-gz4xn Thanks for the feedback Peter, I hope others find it useful.
@@Mike-gz4xn Have you tried Peter's solution?
As always, proper set-up is key. Thanks for posting.
Can u define 1 face side and 2 face edge please
Thanks for the query Elroy. When preparing pieces for a project you should plane two adjacent faces straight and also square with each other, these are known as the face side and face edge. I suppose it doesn't matter which is which but usually the wider surface is the face side and the narrower the face edge. Once you have these faces prepared and marked you should reference all measuring and marking off these faces.
Thanks Chris. Nice close ups!
Just wanted to chime in and say thanks for this, as a new woodworker learning on my own, information like this is invaluable.
Thanks Ryan, appreciated.
excellent instruction, thx 👍👍
This is amazing using hand tools. Way too difficult for my skill level. I will use the Sliding Miter Saw and chisel. Thanks
I’m on my way to collecting and learning to use hand planes. Very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you!
FOCUS FOCUS FOCUS FOCUS WTF ?
Great guide from Chris
Thanks
Thank you, this works a treat.
Çok güzel olmuş ellerine emeğine sağlık.👏👏👏👍