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I love you too!

Yeah, I have no idea why they don't sell a Large.

@@JohnMFlores The medium says 50cm, which i understand to generally be a small (max 5'3"?) but Im 5'11" and I FEEL like it fits me? Stand over seems perfect and I don't feel cramped at all.

The 50cm is the medium. I'm 5'-8" with a 30" inseam and it fits me great after flipping the stem.

@@JohnMFloresThat’s interesting because the medium I stood over and it fit me like my large road bike. Maybe a little bigger actually. I’m 5’8” with a 32 inch inseam and bought the small. My road bike is comfortable enough but fits a little big. When I got into bicycling my understanding is you’re better off trying to make a small bike bigger than a big bike smaller.

​@@kangeothat makes sense - we're the same height but proportioned differently. So I'm not surprised that the 50cm medium feels long to you. And yeah, it is better to try to make a small bike fit than a larger bike.

I know, right?! I was surprised too!

You are welcome 😊

That's a great comparison! I would say that Wheels Through Time is a little more orderly and organized in its collection and display of motorcycles and memorabilia. Bicycle Heaven is a little more wacky. Both are probably a reflection of their founders. And both are very cool places. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Glad it helped

Sorry it didn't work for you - it seems to have helped others.

Coming from someone that has an epic sworks. I got this bike to put a kid seat on back to enjoy riding with my kid. This Walmart bike is surprisingly real good, yes servicing will cost more than the bike itself but for price I would just replace it or learn to work on it yourself. The simple fact is 90% people will not be able take advantage (skill) of $1000+ gravel or MTB that’s just reality……..

Have you ridden one?

@@JohnMFlores No, I've never ridden a Walmart bike or shopped at a Walmart since I was a teenager. I have no doubt it rides well out of the box though, will it still ride well after a few months of riding it? Probably not, could be worth a follow-up video. Not trying to shame anyone, I'm genuinely curious, as the bike shop I work as refuses to let us work on them. 🤔

I understand where you’re coming from about longevity…. That’s why I put it my chase sapphire reserve card which gives me 1 year warranty on top of the 90 days from Walmart….. so if goes bad I’ll get new one. I did put over 50 miles on it with a kid seat so far will see how it holds up.

Thanks for responding. As @LukeyLook says, it's a surprisingly decent bike; much better than the $100 Walmart dual-suspension mountain bikes and bikes that your bike shop won't touch for good reason. I suggest your shop reconsider your policy on the G.1 though. It's got a tapered head tube, threaded bottom bracket with a square taper, and other standard bits. If anything, I'd encourage folks to bring their G.1 for a 50 mile tuneup and regular maintenance. Establish a good relationship with a G.1 owner and they may come back when they're ready to upgrade their 2x7 drivetrain (which will frequently require a new rear wheel) and later when their ready to upgrade their whole bike. Regarding durability, I was surprised that the bike handled the washboard gravel at speed without anything falling off. And when I got home, I gave the front wheel a spin and the bearings are still really smooth. With your shop's experience, I understand your concern about durability. Me too. That's why I plan on riding the bike stock for at least the rest of the year to see how it holds up.

I appreciate that - I'm working on my visual style and language. And one thing I'm committed to is CC. The letterbox not only works for the CC, but I think it gives the footage an interesting vibe. I don't want to say cinematic but perhaps more focused on the riding because the stuff I am cropping off doesn't add much to the story. Gotta plan a bikepacking trip with the G.1 next...

You wanna know how old this is? It was shot on a Samsung Galaxy S9+. And the phone in the video is an S7+!!!

Glad it helped!

You're welcome!

I think you're right. An amazing story nonetheless - he didn't start riding and racing until he was 17 or so!

Good question. I have my eye on a 14-34T but haven't ordered it yet. So I don't know yet whether or not the chain is long enough. If it's too short, you don't need to get a whole new chain; you can just add a couple of links. I have a good relationship with my local bike shop - I'll buy parts and stuff from them from time to time and they do some maintenance of things that are above my skill level. In the past, when I've needed a couple of links for a chain, they just handed me links that they had lying around. If you try the 14-34, let us know how it turns out. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching and commenting! I really try to be honest with my videos, so it's cool to see that they helped you make a decision that seems to be working for you. Regarding the gearing - the racket is likely coming from the chain rubbing against the front derailleur. Question - when you say "smaller 3 rear gears" do you mean physically smaller (the ones furthest from the spokes) or smaller by effort (the ones closest to the spokes)? If you mean physically smaller, that shouldn't happen and you might be able to fix that by adding some cable tension to the front derailleur (there is a silver barrel adjuster on the front derailleur cable right by the headtube) or by adjusting the outer limit screw on the rear derailleur itself. Both of these methods will shift the position of the derailleur cage by a couple of millimeters, which is all that you need to stop the noise. If you mean smaller by effort, you can also use the barrel adjuster to reduce the noise in the third gear but you'll likely still have noise in the smallest/largest gear and maybe the next one too. This is a limitation of all geared drivetrains that have two chainrings up front - the derailleur simply can't move out of the way at these extreme chain angles. These extreme chain angles aren't good anyway as they wear out the chain and cogs faster. Thankfully, the pedaling effort of the big/big gear is similar to the pedaling effort of choosing small/medium. Plenty of videos on CZcams on adjusting derailleurs. Park Tools has the best. Once again, thanks for watching!

@@JohnMFlores Thanks for the tips! It's the smaller by size rear gears I was referring to. I think the Walmart bike assembler just didn't get it setup correctly. As long as I can get it to run the physically larger front with smaller rear without issues, and the smaller front with larger rear, then I'll be set for what I need to do. I seem to spend most of my time on anything remotely flat or downhill in the physically large front smallest 3 rear gears.

The setup of the front derailleur is a bit finicky - the difference between getting it right (no noise) and getting it wrong (dropping the chain when you shift the front derailleur) can be a quarter turn of the adjustment screw. I usually ride around the neighborhood with a small screwdriver in my pocket, stopping frequently to make small tweaks until it's good. Best of luck.

Yup. Lots of bike for the money!

I've never seen it in person so it's hard for me to say.

Ha ha #SafetyFirst

Yes - it depends on what gears in the front and back that you use. If you use the smaller gear in the front and the smallest gear in the rear, you will get noise. That noise is coming from the chain hitting the front derailleur. Next time you get that noise, look at the front derailleur and you'll see the chain rubbing against the outside plate. This is call cross-chaining. It also happens when you use the big gear in front and the big gear in the bag; in this case the chain will be rubbing against the inside plate of the front derailleur. This happens on all bikes with 2 gears in the front, not just the G.1. The answer is simple - don't use gears combinations (small-small or big-big) that make noise. Instead of using the smallest on front combined with the smallest in the rear, try using the big in the front and the third largest in the rear. That gear is very similar to small-small and it doesn't make noise. Does this make sense? It's a common problem. I may make a video about it.

@@JohnMFlores thanks for the info and great videos! keep it up!

@@JohnMFlores I just purchased the last one in my area. Really enjoyed your videos and would love more videos explaining this type of stuff. I’ve cycled before but I’m starting to get back into it.

Thanks for watching and for the kind comment! I'm planning on more videos of the G.1 Explorer. Enjoy the new bike smell and ride safe!

Appreciate the positive feedback! The bike is fun, isn't it? What did you ride before - a mountain bike? Enjoy the G.1!

Same boat here. Cycling would not be accessible to me if it weren't for this bike at this price point. I hope they continue to expand these types of offerings. I've only ever had the 90 dollar "mountain bikes" from walmart.

Thanks for watching and commenting. How much better is the G.1 compared to your $90 Walmart "mountain bikes" of the past? I love that you puts quotes around "mountain bikes" LOL.

@JohnMFlores I would say that only through experiencing the Ozark Trail G.1 did I understand that the cheaper bikes were more bike shaped objects than bicycles. My old bike feels to be at least 45lbs, maybe more. The riding position and general rolling resistance of the G.1 really highlighted inefficiencies in the cheap models. I would say riding a bike without suspension has shown how much extra weight that was, especially when you consider that I have never approached a downhill or single track in my life. Now I feel comfortable on road and on dort/gravel roads, and I am looking forward to putting more miles on the bike as I improve my fitness.

Great insight. It's so funny how people get drawn into thinking that a full suspension mountain bike is what they want without realize that it comes at the expense of cost and quality at that pricepoint. Most people would be better off starting with simpler, sturdier, and more reliable and capable bikes like the G.1.

G.1 FAM!

Yeah, the problem may "fix" itself after some miles as the pad "bed in" to the disc. I'm going to give it a couple more rides. If it persists, I'll adjust them. In other words, it's not a deal breaker. Thanks for watching!

Some people have changed the pads and improved the acoustics of the disk breaks. Others have also just upgraded the brake rotor as well to upgrade the stopping power and eliminate the break "squeal" that the G.1 is known for.

Ha! I have a 90s mountain bike sitting in the basement waiting to be brought back to life too. I'll get to it eventually but for now, buying the G.1 was much cheaper. And yeah, totally get what you say about Walmart. I never shop there. But this bike deserves a fare shake and hopefully if it succeeds its DNA will trickle down to other Walmart bikes (and products) Thanks for watching.

Depending on the components on that Mongoose mountain bike, you might be better off fixing it up than to get this Ozark Trail gravel bike. There's no denying that $248 is a steal for a gravel bike but if you seriously look at the components, they are junk.......Shimano Tourney, L-Twoo shifters, derailleurs and crankset. While they may be "brand name," they are on the lower end of the product lines. L-Twoo does have an extensive product line on bike groupsets similar to Microshift and Shimano so it's not a knock on the company as a whole. The freewheel sound got annoying in store. Can't imagine having to listen to it on the road for hours. Good bike for those on a budget wanting to try out gravel riding or ride around the block on short distances. It's just not an everyday bike and definitely not long commute without modifications.

Interesting....mine seems to be better assembled (I did a lot of the normal checks and adjustments that you do with a new bike). But I would not be surprised if there was a lot of variation in initial build quality. But once it's given a once over, it seems like a pretty solid bike so far. I did some gravel riding with it over the weekend and am working on that video now. Thanks for watching and commenting.

May he wrench in peace....

Glad you're enjoying the bike! Yeah, every new bike needs a once over and a tightening up of things after the first rides. My G.1 was ok upon delivery but I did have to tweak some things that a newer rider might not have been able to do. Still, it's a really good bike. I recently uploaded my second video about the G.1 and am working on a third. Thanks for watching!

Fellow trail runner here - I love them both! Your cardio should be good from trail running, and your legs should be good too but cycling is more hamstrings than quads, unless you're standing and pedaling. And yeah, I've had sore legs after a hard ride, but never the same kind of "thrashed and my legs are so sore that it's hard to walk down the stairs kind of sore" that I've gotten running. As long as you can spin at a good cadence you're saving your joints. I'm working on the next video right now - a gravel ride. Spoiler, my recommendation still stands. Just get it! Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thanks!

No problem!!

The stock Kendas are rated 50-85 PSI so I'm well within range and the bike rode really nice. As I said in the video, maybe a touch harsher than my steel touring bike, but it still felt all day comfortable. I'm admittedly a little old school about tire pressures - must come from my 21c, 120psi days lol. Thanks for the kind words.

@@JohnMFlores thank you for the explanation!

Well done!