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I know what you are saying. The panels on my 41 and the rockers on the 50 Plymouth required a lot of massaging to make them fit and look right. Unfortunately on those cars you don't have a lot to choose from. For that matter the Plymouth rockers are no longer available at all. As all the rest of the panels on this C10 were pretty good fits including the other cab corner I am inclined to think that the impact damage on the cab distorted the OG cab corner. I was hoping to hear from someone who put an LMC left cab corner on a first gen unmolested cab. Anyone?

That's the plan! Longer than me anyway. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Great suggestion! If it weren't for all those pesky copyright laws.

I remember a guy I worked with who was so proud of the hours he spent repairing the rust on the front fenders of his first gen Chevy II/Nova. I called my guy at the local dealership parts dept. He could get them for something like $100 a piece. Granted $100 was $100 back then and a lot more than a tank of gas, but still, they looked better and were completely unmolested. And made exactly like the originals. But let's face it. The big three want a couple of rich dudes with immaculately restored or restomodded cars/trucks which are seldom driven in order to sell this years model. I think they couldn't care less about us run-of-the-mill enthusiast. Just my 2 cents.

What do you want for nothing, a rubber biscuit?

Sometimes I wear gloves. I have FastOrange wipes in the shop and a pump dispenser in the shower.

Yes.

Just below the video and to the right of the channel name (Chopper Bob Customs) there should be a gray SUBSCRIBE button. Smash that and you are on your way!

Doing this from memory. We put a new American Autowire ignition switch in that car. But we did that because there was a possibility that the original switch had too much resistance due to pitting of the contacts. It would get warm/hot while driving. The white wire on the FiTech has to go to a switched (key switch) terminal which has 12V in the RUN (ON) and the CRANK (START) position. Some key switches have a terminal which is "hot" only in the RUN position. So, IIRC, we knew that the American Autowire switch had a terminal which was hot in ON and START. If you are not certain, use a test light or ohmmeter to check your switch. Hook you white wire to it. As an aside, you don't want to connect it to an ACCESORY terminal. This isn't an issue on the stock 55 as it doesn't have an ACC position.

@@chopperbobcustoms Thank you for the reply that is exactly what I needed to hear. I spliced it into the pink ignition wire on the back of the switch and it worked.

Hi Eric. The purpose of the video was to let those following the 56 know why the 56 is gone (for now) and to stay tuned because it is coming back. End of June / first of July you should get what you would like to see. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thanks! I knew you could pull the green connector off but I assumed if the wire was locked in with the screw/clamp that it also clamped the terminals on the controller. Duh. This is what happens when you assume. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thanks for watching. I am going to be using the electronics specified in the JDs garage's plans. As these are his plans, I am not going to share the components or wiring diagram in my videos. The extent of what I will be showing is what I learned as far as assembly order and things to watch for during the assembly. JD's plans are $25 and not only does he spec out the components, he provides links in the BOM so you can go right to the web site and order the very parts he uses in his build. Please note that I get nothing from JD. I just did the research and came to the conclusion that it was well worth the $25 for the plans. He's done all the R&D. He is using his own version of this table as a test mule and to make parts which he sells. jdsgarage.bigcartel.com/product/cnc-plasma-cutter-plans

I have heard great things about it. The biggest problem with cams and lifters IMHO is the fact that ZDDP has been removed from today's engine oils. This is why we break in our cams with Amsoil Assembly Lube and Amsoil Break In oil. Both have more than enough ZDDP in them to protect the cam and lifters during break in. Then we use Amsoil Z-Rod in street engines and Amsoil Dominator in race engines as they both have ZDDP in them. You can check out all our products here - www.amsoil.com/?ZO=5515533

It is really not so much the bearing clearances. The extreme pressures on the oil wedge in a blown alcohol engine is the primary reason. There is also alcohol contamination of the oil to consider. As a point of reference, nitro engines, which have even greater pressures, run 70 weight oil. One of the great things about Amsoil Dominator is that it has the film strength of 60 weight but still flows almost like water. The additives are designed to not break down under the extreme pressures, temperatures, and contamination. You can check them out here - www.amsoil.com/?ZO=5515533

Thanks!

@@chopperbobcustoms Mallory Metal was added to internally balance the engine.

I'm thinking you commented on the wrong video? No 66 Biscayne here. I sure wouldn't mind having a 66 427 Biscayne!

Thanks for watching and commenting. I think it is a matter of "should" rather than "could." There will be a water pan to collect dust and sparks. The steel is dimensionally stable whereas the wood could be affected by the humidity. There will also be heat and sparks. The metal is fireproof where the wood is not. Finally, I bought all of that steel tubing for less than $100 and there is about 9 foot left over for my "stock" pile. So, while you could I don't think you should because I don't think you will be happy with the results.

wood is also not as sturdy. the machine will shake and "jolt" with the direction changes from the gantry moving, which will be seen in the metal being cut. If it's CNC anything, it's best to be constructed out of metal for rigidity.

Much appreciated!

Glad you enjoyed it

No. I just need time and $ to get it done so I can drive it. LOL

If removal were required on an often basis, I would agree. On a drag car, this one in particular, the most likely reason for removing it would be because it was leaking. The brakes would need to be bled anyway. Weighing the pros and cons, I would rather have the firmer pedal and lesser chance of failure provided by the hard lines. Time will tell if I made the right choice. Thanks for watching Ronnie.

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While installing it I blamed the part. In hindsight it could be because of the damage caused when the cab got dented (the dent is above the repair panel). The passenger side went together far better than this side.

I'll have the car owner check with the upholsterer but I don't believe he documents with video. My video, Carson Top 39 Ford Finale (?), from 2 months ago, shows the finished product after the upholster was done with it.

Yeah it looks really good. You did a really good job explaining what you did.

Part of it may be from you promoting it! Thank you for your support.

. @chopperbobcustoms I would like to think so but I doubt it...Probably the "C10" in the title.

Thank you! Pricing. LOL I have the advantage of not needing the income from this in order to survive (at least for now). If I didn't enjoy it I wouldn't be doing it. Keep watching. Tell your friends. I am hoping to have some great videos in 2024!

@@chopperbobcustoms I will definitely share your channel. I was in the same line of work for many years but slowing down a little now. You can always learn something new from watching another. And I have….. thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Very nice work.

Watch for upcoming video on door jack. It needs to warm up and I have to get some stuff out of the queue first, but, I have an idea (and that can only lead to trouble LOL).

I try

Glad to hear that!

The place where I bought mine does have the lowest price (~$85 USD) but I no longer recommend them due to their return policy. If you google "welding table" you will find several at Amazon for ~$130 USD.

Uncle Dirtbag's goal was to keep the outside from getting inside. I think that has been accomplished. Beyond that he is happy with the rest of the truck, as-is. Not necessarily my cup of tea but I can appreciate it being his. That being said, you are correct. There is a potential career there LOL.

Ford built a ton of first gen Mustangs. They were popular then and they are still popular. All of this has led to pre-74 Mustangs having a huge amount of repop parts made from multiple providers. This has resulted in plentiful parts at reasonable prices. So, you are off to a good start. Assuming the owner of this 65 coupe wants me to proceed, I will be doing videos on suspension, brakes, quarter panels, engine, transmission, electrical, and HVAC.

Rosettes. Plug welds. Takes the place of a resistance (spot) weld. One piece of metal with a hole or series of holes in it is lapped over another piece of metal. You start the the arc in the center of the hole on the back piece of metal and work your way out to the edge of the hole on the front piece of metal. If you do it right (I do that occasionally LOL) it is flat or just barely taller than the surrounding surface and the ripples sorta resemble rose petals (if you squint). Maybe I should do a short showing the process? Thanks for watching and commenting!