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I don't recall, I returned it and just got an Onkyo and have used it and satisfied my needs and saved a ton of money.

@@FrostyFilms704 Yeah Xbox has alot Hdmi handshake issues with Processors/Avrs, especially the High end ones like Trinnov/ Mcintosh/Anthem/Storm Audio. You either connect the Xbox to the Tv directly & use Earc or you are better of with those cheap & mass produced avrs. Xbox needs to step up & start testing high end Processors/AVRS with their consoles. As everyone doesn't have running in the mill or mass produced Processors/Receivers. Well hope they do one day, i m using Earc with my Anthem 1140 and all is well.

Thanks, only thing I can tell you is go purchase one of these MS250 saws and hopefully you'll get one like most of us had. I'm getting up there in years as well, currently have 4 stihls, they all start easy, except the 250. Actually it does now if you prime it as described and doesn't require anything else. What you describe will most likely flood one and then you're done for a while. Thanks for the comments.

I think they are around $4500 shipped. But if you find a dealer, may be less if as they may can get a shipment of more than one to offset the cost.

Yep have them, wish they came with them.

And I can say that what you describe absolutely will not work and the reason for video on this saw. The correct start sequence for anything is whatever gets it to start reliably. I only have to do with the 250, the rest pretty much choke, pull 1 or two times till it attempts to start, partial choke like you state and works. I actually have a wood splitter with a honda engine, the only thing honda I've ever had that doesn't start on the second or 3rd pull. I've changed carbs at one point I was about to through the damn thing away and misted starter fluid, but now this and these procedures it starts.

@FrostyFilms704 Aye. Just saying, if it doesn't start according to procedure, there is some other underlying issue. But in a pinch, whatever gets you going. As a Stihl tech, 90% of problem saws used not starting them correctly and refuse to accept procedure or underlying cause. 9% fuel (related) issues. Not saying you, but a shocking number of customers do not want to accept that technology is changing. And because it's not obvious, they conclude there is no reason to do things differently, even if ever so slightly.

So what is the correct way?

Short version in a tow situation, if youre GVWR of your toe vehicle and trailer are greater than 26,000 lbs, you'll need a CDL. So take a F450, it's 14,000 and a trailer to hall this legally would probably be a 8 tons or more. That's 30,000lbs and you need a CDL. If you have an F350 with a gvwr or 12,000 and you have a 7 ton trailer, technically you wouldn't need a CDL, however, a 7 ton trailer isn't going to legally haul a 57. Trail will weigh 3 or 4k depending on the configuration. There is a lot of confusion

What do y’all in the USA have to do in order to get a CDL? In Nova Scotia Canada we can haul a truck including payload up to 28,000 pounds and a trailer up to 10,000 pounds (unless you do a road test with a utility trailer very simple test really if completed you can haul a trailer up to 28,000 pounds). long as it’s a single axle (even heavy dump trucks as I own an international 4790 35,000 GVWR) but weighs 12,500 empty weight.

48 in usless , shortest arm of any manufacturer. 35 size machines have more reach. Not sure what kubota was thinking, large undercarriage and very short arm

@@rontopping2048 I’m not sure what specs you have been looking at. The yammer 50 has the same reach and the Deere 50 has about 6in more. The 48 has more lift capacity and more hydraulic flow than the 040

From experience this cutter will shred those pallets to chips. Just not sure I would want nails laying around after shredding.

Thanks for adding the info for people watching. What Steve is referring to is there is a 1 or 2 way circuit selection valve. An image of it can be found on page 54 of the KX040 manual. Turning the value for 1 way circuit can relieve back pressure. However, if you turn this, make sure to turn it back when you go back to using your thumb or any aux which is 2 way. I'll add these to the comments above. The video is just about the issue if the pump is mounted wrong or lines are hooked up wrong when you first get it because generates some questions. Otherwise it's really about the difference of the 42 L vs the 42 on a 40.

Thank you, yes I did find him on Facebook and got to catch up with him. Thank you for reaching out.

Swash buckle was incorrect, clearly explained above. Connectors are correct for getting the machine to run to load it. Or worked for mine. If this doesn't work for you, please do your own video, link it and be helpful instead of putting others down? Please share a link so we can come "critique" it for you. The point of this video was to save somebody from having to pay the tow vultures or a dealership from coming to get your machine. This wasn't to fix any issue, it was to get a machine loaded. First time it happened I got stuck in the machine and had to crawl out the back. Then went to the dealer which had "experts" like you seem to be and same thing happened again in the woods because they didn't fix the problem and actually damaged the warning harness sticking probes in it. We had to get it out and loaded and to another dealer.

Regardless, something to look out for, again I never would have thought no more than I used the saw that would have happened. I'm about done with dealers, around here it's $65 just to drop the saw off regardless and to fix this I would wager $500 to $600. I purchased down what I need to do a leak/vacuum test and was able to find the parts online a cheaper than dealers. (Not the Chinese parts.) Looking at the saw from the outside, saw looks hardly used as it hadn't been. Thanks for the input.

@@FrostyFilms704 yeah saw looks great, I made a video how to pressure and vacuum test in 4 minutes - I hope it helps :) czcams.com/video/kUmeyVcnZrs/video.html

Hmm, I'm not sure, I went back to bing.com/chat and asked it to create me another thumbnail and still generates it. They are integrating Designer with bing Chat but there is a copilot link on the right for designer which you could start with. AI right now isn't perfect and also it doesn't understand language like talking to another human. So just a single word can result in different responses and actions. also, sometimes you just get rubbish responses like you got. So change the wording a little and try again. Also, I think it's constantly going through updates and during those, you could encounter what you did. Then as you point out, something like size, also asking it add words, it doesn't do well at all with spelling in the images. Also, asking it to modify something you may like with adjustments isn't great. Remember this is close to the first iteration and things should get better.

@@FrostyFilms704 After playing with it a bit more, I found that sometimes "thumbnail" trips it up and sometimes it works, depending on context and the AI interpretation of the other verbiage. However, I found that "image" works every time. Aspect ratios are limited, though. You may want to check out Leonardo AI if you haven't already. You can choose multiple AI engines to generate images and can output it in any aspect ratio you want (including the youtube 1280x720 thumbnail size). It's free and works pretty well, but it is strictly an image generator.

I took it to the a still dealer because I didn’t have anything to do a leak test and took it there specifically to diagnose before ordering parts. They stated there were zero leaks, and the diagnosis is from them. FYI, they had got some of the muck out there so it doesn’t show how much was in it in the video. Their reasoning was it caused it to build up too much heat. I’m still not sold on their diagnosis, and I ordered a piece to do a leak down again when I get around to replacing the cylinder. But I will keep an eye on that from now on. I run a 20” bar, I just stuck a 24” off a 462 for the video. If the 362 can’t run a 20” bar, then not much use to me. I’m curious about the comments about the ignition or something else. It’s hard to see and believe something like that can happen in 17 hours for me without some kind of big problem like running raw gas or a seal leak etc, but I know there hasn’t been raw gas, I’m the only one that has used the saw. Curious, is Husqvarna a better option, I thought about fixing it trying a 562 XP

Thanks for comments, no horrible noise with the chain brake on and I hardly ever let my stuff run on idle. Start the saw, feather the trigger to get it warmed up cut what I need and cut off. Only time I use that saw is to cut down some large trees and when holding the logs up with excavator, shut it off. Limbing and such use 250. Never embarrassed to learn lessons and sharing. Actually, appreciate the comment because when it was running I actually don’t remember the chain moving much if at all. Just first thing we saw at the shop when I was showing them how little compression it had and slowly pulling it on the table. Also, I doubt I ever run the saw more than 5 minutes at a time during its life so another reason I have a hard time believing it got overly hot. Not the most expensive lesson I’ve learned.

It's ok, stuff happens. Part of the video is stating what the stihlership passed along but I myself am skeptical. Plus it's interesting to see all the comments, my first thought if I saw this would be somebody ran raw fuel through it but I know that not to be the case. I see several, "ran a dull chain". I'm sure at some times, chain was somewhat dull but cut the chain sharp, purchased a new one etc. If this was a case from a "Dull chain", every saw would blow up. The frustrating part is just 17 hours of run time. Also, I don't abuse any engine, I try to run at the correct RPM, not lugging but not running off the chip either. I'm glad to see posts like yours because I tried to press the shop I had do the leak test and check it out. They tried to say it was used cutting creso posts which it has not. But the contend it was so much in there, it caused too much heat build up. I'm wondering if there was a issue with a oring around the decompression valve or something like that but would think a leak test would catch that. I've ran an old Husqvarna and don't think I hardly ever sharpened the chain like I do all my stihls now, especially with the 2 in 1 sharpener. I can't stand to cut with a chain that's not sharp anymore. All I know to do is replace everything, leak test it and see what happens. Problem is will probably take another 10 years me to put another 17 hours on it.

Well you definitely have a good attitude about it and you might as well because it is what it is, but dang, 17hrs is three days of running for me and that’s ridiculous. That area does look pretty packed up though and sometimes caused the dragging that caused the heat. The reason I was thinking maybe a dull chain is dull chains make fine sawdust and not larger chips that wouldn’t tend to get behind the clutch like that. Plus dull chains cause more of a load on the engine. Not saying it was, just a guess out of the blue because I’ve never seen that before and we’ve had 35 fallers cutting all day every day so it’s a pretty big sample size. But like I said earlier, no experience with that particular model. Anyway, good information to be sharing 👍🏼

@@dgoodman1484 you definitely know what more than me. The trees the bases in the beginning probably back in 2015 where large oaks I took down with an excavator then cut the stumps off and doing that, dirt does get on the tree it was hard to keep a chain super sharp all the time. But again, as you said, you would put 17 hours on it in 3 days. I hardly ever would run a saw through a full tank of gas. They said 17 hours and 250 starts if that gives you any idea. So that's where I have a hard time with a lot of heat, I just don't run saws for long, cut a tree down, cut logs and then sections I needed a 20" bar but rest with a 250. That was back in 2015 and I couldn't sharpen a chain for crap and when I had time to go to the property and do work, I got what I could done. I think I've purchased like 6 chains for over that time. But the past year or so, I purchased the 2 in 1 sharpeners which do an amazing job for what I do so I usually sharpen the chain every use. I've read all these comments and thought and thought about it trying to figure out where I would have ever ran it to get hot. Last year, we had an old big oak that the power company killed back in 15 and it was dry. In a panic and rush I had to get the saw and it would hardly cut through that tree. Too me for ever and it was about a 21" or so base. Before I got to fall, it shut off and it could have been from being a little hot, but we're talking about running it for 5 to 10 minutes. But it shut off and would not start. But the next day, started up and even started up, idled fine, ran smooth. WIth a sharp chain just couldn't pull through oak. Anyway, lot have helped me on here so just sharing. Is what is. My problem I think is I just never use it much, when I do not for great lengths of time and I never would have even thought about it being ran enough to look under the clutch area. (Going to pull my other saws apart when I get a chance.) I appreciate your input.

Never had a problem with any 2 stroke engine. Also, cylinder didn't actually seize. Starts, runs, idles fine, just no power. I tend to agree more with something about fuel delivery and probably a lean condition, or overheating like the stihlership indicated.

Gotta think the same on the cold seizure. 240 starts on 17hrs is only 4.25 minutes per start and I'm sure the average run time was less than that with some longer runs averaged in. A lot of quick full throttle cuts will get it done.

No, just regular chain bar oil. Nothing special but chain bar oil isn't stihl. I've never worried about it as don't really use saws that much, just to cut some personal firewood. Never thought I'd have anything like this happen with 17 hours on a saw unless it was running raw gas or neglect.

I had a hard time buying it, the stihlership sounded like they were trying to deny a warranty which made no sense with the age of the saw. I've used saws for a long time just for cutting wood so it's just cut few trees down here and there so I don't use saws a lot of hours but I've never had this. I read about dull chains which I'm not sure about, if the chain is dull and you're running a saw wide open, then yes over revving I could see and issue, but I don't do that and lately with the 2 in 1 file, I sharpen about every time. Keep in mind this saw has 17 hours in 10 years. Im in Charlotte. We'll see, just sharing what I got back from the stihlership. If there is no air leaks and no more than I run it or how easy I run it, has to be something. The bad thing, once I rebuild it, probably another 10 years before I'll see it again even if it does happen again in 17hours of use.

😮😮😮

@@FrostyFilms704 I highly recommend going to Richard for a second opinion. A compacted clutch area will not cause over heating of the piston and cylinder / a scored top end. Your clutch may bind, your clutch may even over heat eventually, but not burn the engine up. Richard repairs engines for a tree company, hes not your average joe.

As a small engine mechanic for 26 years, I totally agree with your assessment. the engine failure was caused by some sort of lean run condition not anything to do with the clutch debris buildup.

M tronic system sucks!!

Thank you for the response. I was going to go with the meteor kit but the shop out in CO stated it was built for the 362 and not the 362cm and the part numbers are different. Mind sharing if you do have the 362cm and also if what after market kit you purchased? Let us know if you have to do any modifying? This one runs a 20", but had it on a 462 while I'm fixing this one. I found somebody on ebay selling stihl parts and got them and they are genuine stihl and got it them for $270 or whatever, but needle bearing and piece to do a leak test, I spent $330 so far. I would strongly suggest doing a leak test on the saw going through all the trouble. That’s the only reason I took my saw in but since spent the $ to purchase the carb adapter to leak test mine. The other thing, plug off your decompression hole or make sure you use a new one. For mine, something caused it to get hot, an air leak causing them to run lean will do it. I’m still on the fence about what they told me here but the said the leak test showed no leaks so it has to be something. Good luck.

My saw is the 362 not the cm i bought hyway kit. Dealer did leak test. when they rebuilt it ,i didnt. the saw overheated some how, not from being dull or lack of maintenance. I think its the design of the saw.An $800 saw that cant stand up to being used. I never had this problem with any other saws. I don't think i would buy another Stihl.Thanks.@@FrostyFilms704

Man you could have got a FarmMac F380 (72c Stihl 038 Magunum II copy) for just about the same in parts. I got mine delivered for $350 with 25” Bar-tool kit, ect..free shipping. Made in Taiwan not mainland comm china. 10 tanks in now and it’s proven to a beast. Project farm reviewed the bigger next size up FarmMac against an OEM equivalent to the Stihl MS660. He was clearly impressed.

Thank you for the hard work.

My opinion and I don't have experience with a cutter. I just grass and small trees, brush to cut through and don't think a mulcher would be that great. Mulcher are more expensive to run from what I hear as you constantly have to replace the teeth. (This is personal use, not business so not trying to waste money.) Also, for a 40, my guess it's not big enough to do mulching if you're doing it to make money. I would think you would want a big machine, 80 or bigger but again, depends on how much you have to do, how fast you get it done. Also, they are hard on machines. I want even look at a machine that had a mulcher hooked up to it, especially a track loader with all the vibration. The cutter as long as you aren't just dropping it on 4" trees and take you time, I don't see this as any more rough than digging with a bucket. But again, that's my opinion. FYI. I see 57's with mulchers and then people selling them to get bigger machines so again, would assume a 40 may not be enough for commercial. Playing around the farm, with no time schedule may be fine.

I have both a mulcher and a brush cutter. Anything smaller than 3 inch in diameter I feel like the brush cutter does a better faster job. Plus I can cut grass with it. The mulcher is great for controlling the discharge of what your cutting. And for larger material’s. Also it is cost based too. A brush cutter is $6000 or less. A mulcher is usually $15,000 and up

I did what I needed to do and sold the 40 and buyer wanted the cutter with it. I purchased a 57 and another new one that had the mounting plate for the 57. So yes I liked it as obviously I purchased a new one. What to look out for, same as run any type of brush cutter, bush hog, rocks, and don't try to cut into anything bigger than what it's designed for. Don't hit stumps etc. Blades can easily be sharpened with a grinder. I wouldn't imagine replacing them unless somebody is careless running it and just hitting things and bending them. I didn't see anything else out there for the money as good.

@@FrostyFilms704 good to know. Thanks for the reply

I do have a 57 and the same cutter. I haven't hooked it up and tested as cleared everything I had in the video. The 57 is nice but now having it, the 40 was good as well. I think the 42" light version would work just fine. Just depending on if it's personal or business. If you're just brush cutting mostly I don't think you'll make more money with the 57 so not sure it's worth it. If you going to try and mulch or do other stuff that requires the bigger machine. For me around here, and that's all I was getting it for, the 40 and the Light version of the cutter would have been all I need.

@@FrostyFilms704 I see what you are saying. Will have to think more about requirements now and in the future. Thank you for the video, it was very informative. Appreciate it!