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Thank you.

Here is a link for this specific model. amzn.to/3WCsQKc I would suggest doing a serial number lookup to make sure that this full kit covers your particular model. This kit does cover many years of BFP8 & BFP9.9 models...but I would suggest you look up the serial number to be 100% certain...unless you already know the full model number & revision, you can see that in the kit compatibility list.

Thank you for the kind words. Great to hear you had good success yesterday. And yesterday was a nice day to be on the ocean off the Oregon coast. Its was a flat ocean - I was out fishing yesterday too 🙂 Happy that the videos are helpful. I'm trying to figure out what additional content would be helpful. If you have any ideas, please let me know. Take care.

Thanks for the feedback and thank you for watching. Yes, on my more recent videos I have been trying to give more details. Any more suggestions on content or things you'd like to see, please let me know. Thanks!

Hi there. If I recall, it was 4700uF and 63VDC rating.

Thanks. But one of the joys I have is studying all the charts and the bathymetric charts and circling spots that I need to explore. Pretty much every spot I've got on my list of places to go are ones I explored and found myself. Yes, we all can go down to 3 Arches if out of LI or Johnson Rock if out of Newport, etc or go where someone gives you the 'numbers'. But its is satisfying when you study the charts and data and get a game plan and go explore. You'll find lots of spots that no one else is fishing. But if you share it on CZcams or via social media, you might be surprised to see a 100 of your close friends hanging out there the next time and you get muscled out of the spot you found 😀

@@AFaO Oh no I never exchange in public chat XD There is indeed so much joy in finding your own private spots. But I always help my friends out cause they return the favor haha. Love the content! You got a sub :)

On a boat or from shore?

From a boat. Will be going out this Friday.

@@rodtalley1532 Well, many of the folks starting out go down to 3 Arches. Its a long reef with plenty of area to explore. I would suggest subscribing to one of the Charting Apps like Navionics, C-Maps or TZ iboat - as they will show the shaded relief maps with good detail. It will be obvious when looking at the chart with Shaded Relief enabled, where all the structure is at. Its sounds from your post that you may not have go out of that port before. I would caution anyone if they have not experienced crossing this bar to either go out with an experienced captain who has navigated this bar or to take a guided trip to learn from an experienced captain. This bar can be VERY dangerous and has deteriorated because of sediment that has filled in the middle grounds and the south jetty has been severely damaged from storms. Ebb can be very dangerous. Going through the South and the middle grounds can be VERY dangerous and is NOT recommended. The only route out is through the North Hole marked with a buoy that has moved as an entrance buoy. Cutting the North Jetty too close, you can hit rocks as it is partially submerged for at least 100 yards past the visible jetty at low tide. Expect the Coast Guard to have bar restrictions with any swell of 5' or greater on this bar. Be very cautious. We've already had casualties on our coast this year from bar crossings. And for details on this bar, you can consult the OSMB flier. www.oregon.gov/osmb/forms-library/Documents/Publications/TillamookBar.pdf Have fun out there and be safe!

We have a few species we can not keep - like Yellow Eye and Quillback which we have to decend safely to reduce impact. The rockfish are managed and we have adjustments sometimes in season to reduce impacts. We are down to a bag limit of 5 fish per day. I remember when it use to be 10 🙁

I would suggest looking at the chart and go due west of Twin Rocks and see where it hits 400 to 420'. That would give you the distance and general area.

@@j-swizzyswoll8000 live sonar transducer

Unfortunately, AT5 is a proprietary binary format. Lowrance provides the tool to convert to AT5...but its a one way street. Once its converted to AT5, I am not aware of any tools available to parse and convert to another format.

Pipe cap would be fine on the bottom - I have made some that way. But...you have the additional cost for the cap. Usually we are trying to be as cheap as possible ☺ Plus the lower cost doesn't hurt so bad when you hang up on the rocks and lose it :-) . But if you have lots of extra caps laying around, by all means use them. Put the pipe with cap on the bottom in a bucket of DRY sand. Then pour on the top. The sand will help dissipate the heat,will help keep the pipe in place while you pour the lead.

I did not have any white residue. The 'brightness' in the pictures is just the bright / clean concrete color. After a few weeks it all blended in with the existing 'aged' concrete.

You are welcome. Thanks for watching.

Hi. I assume you are talking about the cotter pin to swivel connection? I covered that in Part 1 of the video. czcams.com/video/RN308yi2mgo/video.html Use a stainless cotter pin and place the swivel on and use a slight bend in the cotter pin so its held in place. The lead will encase the pin and hold that in place.

Steel wool, Scotch Brite pad and even sandpaper. The used indoor copper (from remodels) is not too bad. But in the video/thumbnail, you'll see my 3/4" old copper pipe that was pulled from under ground. It was really oxidized and dirty. That pipe will require a little more effort to clean up. Most of the 1/2" that I pulled from indoor (in wall) I'll just use it as is. They will fish fine with a little dull character to them.

Also, you can try using a vinegar/salt solution which will clean the copper. Depending on how oxidized your copper is, you'll have to let it soak longer. But be sure to rinse it off with clean water and even a little baking soda to neutralize the acid wash. A bucket with some clean water and baking soda will usually suffice and just put it in there. Of course, do this before you put your hooks and split rings on 🙂

Thank you

That is true. BUT, if a manufacturer claims that it should handle 295# but it fails at 204# don't you think that is false advertising? Should marketing be allowed to put whatever weight rating on *things*?

I'll post a video soon on the lead pour and cover that.

Thank you. Happy it was helpful.

It is definitely another great tool to have in the fishing toolbox.

I haven't fished the MC in 20years. But guys do use the same technique and setup with Herring. As the water warms up, many move over to hardware/360 flashers.

@@AFaO Can you do a short show exactly how you place the hooks in the herring. Thank you!

Thank you for the feedback and happy the video was helpful.

Thank you!

Thanks. We went out yesterday afternoon and landed 2 more chinook.

Hello. The Phone Mount and Accessories are available for purchase through Amazon: [As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases] Phone Mount ➡amzn.to/4cnnQPu Double Socket Arm ➡amzn.to/3x1oP84 Plate Base Mount ➡amzn.to/43tWmE4 Thanks for watching.