Video

What happened to it?

About 7”

I bet it could, and I am sure it’s been done. There’s no reason it couldn’t work, the 4-speed auto should hold more torque than a stock 2.5 or even a turbocharged 2.0 can dish out.

@@bwiren13 alright! So it should be a straight drop in swap?

Bone-stock, just in Track Mode with the factory valved exhaust. Ford knows how to put an exhaust together these days!

@@bwiren13 that's crazy, I guess everyone puts aftermarket exhausts on their GTs so I never know! Tell your brother his car is awesome

Unfortunately not, my car grenaded its differential and spilled the transmission’s guts not long after filming this and I had to trade it in after repairing it as I had already swapped 2 motors into it and was pretty fed up. Sorry!

GREAT question. Please read the whole response below: At this point I’m attributing both blowups to user error. The first one died because I was running a reputable off-the shelf tune (MonsterTuned Adapt-X), which specifically said NOT to mess with the wastegate whatsoever. I thought I’d get lucky and tightened my stock wastegate preload all the way down. Made the car noticeably faster, but I ignored the tune instructions and it overboosted and blew out Cyl4 ringlands when I took it to an autocross a week later. No wonder, lol. The second go around was also my fault…I went big turbo on stock fueling and a (supposedly) 75,000mile stock motor with no water/meth injection. I did carry over the full bolt-ons+ FMIC I was running on the stock turbo, but it wasn’t enough to keep me from LSPI’ing my motor on the freeway on the way home from another autocross event. I was cruising in 6th, downshifted to 4th to pass someone, goosed it, and heard the classic LSPI “fart of death” once I mashed the throttle. Same failure too: ringlands in Cyl4 went, low compression on #4. At the time of failure, I had made sure I was above 3000RPMs before matting it, and I was running the finalized pro tune, by none other than Alan at Edge Autosport himself (who I do not fault for this happening, he was fantastic). My fatal mistake on this car was not gapping ringlands/building the block up for longevity, or at least running WMI to protect the block from high boost/combustion temps. If I were to do it over, I’d have gone with the exact same setup I had before, but would have pre-gapped my rings and used a good-condition, low mileage motor, and I would 1000% run at LEAST water injection (without tuning for performance using it) to keep combustion temps/effective octane low and protect the block from LSPI. LSPI is a killer and CAN still get you, even if you think you know what you’re doing. Humans make mistakes. My $0.02. Also, for what it’s worth, I had ZERO engine problems when I was 100% stock (for the first and last 10,000mi I owned the car). After the second blowup I said hell with it and went back to totally stock, prepped the car for GS, and was WAY more successful autocrossing that setup than ever before. Like no joke, beating RS’s and Golf Rs in the WET. These cars are G-Street machines if you leave them stock. Stalk my channel for more of that content :) Cheers!

If it’s 100% stock with resonator still, you won’t be able to hear the exhaust at all. Without the resonator, it now will sound like a normal car exhaust.

Thanks! You might like what I just uploaded: czcams.com/video/Du0t-4N5YvI/video.htmlsi=b8R1NIIeOpiBFbhO

The only problem with that is weight distribution. The heavier the engine the worse it will handle, so if all you want is a straight line drag car then fine. If you want to be fast around a track or safe taking corners fast, watch out, better check to see how much weight that added to the rear and see if you can put up with it before buying it.

Good eye!

​@@bwiren13I would have to be blind. . hopefully he gets the hang of it.

I don’t, but you should be able to use a free online CZcamsDownloader type of website to save it as a file to your computer from CZcams.

This was exactly what I was going for! Just didn’t look quite as cool haha

@@bwiren13yes Bc of the video I’ve been running this for the last week or so really great. I’m GTX2860r so slight bottleneck I think but for daily driving it’s perfect. In the future I’ll get the 3 inch Milltek 🔥

On the contrary, the “launch control” in the tune built boost immediately after the first couple limiter hits. Anything more would have been gratuitous, I tested multiple RPM settings and this was the fastest 0-60 I could get reliably. FWD is just not optimal for acceleration from a dig. Unfortunately the car managed to blow 2 motors and a transmission within less than a year after this was filmed (wonder why lol), so I traded it for a slow CVT crosstrek and decided saving for a house was more important than being a speedy boi :/

Well then - my bad 😄 general rule of thumb is to always give it a literal second after hitting the limiter for the boost to build so I was sure it was the case 😊 the fact that FWD is not ment for racing is quite known 😁 you blew a couple motors and tranny on a heavily tuned car? You don’t say 😋 best of luck with the house! Have a great day 😊

On the contrary, the working as-built hexadecimal values are shown at the beginning of the video :) there are many helpful resources on the ForSCAN website to help you get started using the software. You can change line 01 in the AS-built for your ACM to the values shown in the video to get your steering wheel buttons working after you’ve done your steering wheel swap!

Completely stock ‘22 ST-line (2.3L I4, not V6)! No mods whatsoever.

Rokblokz, and they’re the “Splash Guards” not the full sized mudflaps!

Thank you!!

Yeah honestly with Infinity Reference Series speakers and a trunk sub, the stock stereo isn’t the worst. Just absolutely lacked any midrange detail whatsoever, the aftermarket unit offered much more adjustability and a much less muddy low-end.

@@bwiren13 yeah the midrange isn’t really that good, that I’ll admit but if you want a fair stereo system and save a lot of battery life this is it, just add some some treble speakers if you need

Yeah, i hear ya man. FWIW, I had absolutely zero problems with the car until I modified it, so I put it completely back to stock (after blowing the second motor within 8 days) and haven’t had a single problem since. It also drives so smoothly and still rips pretty hard on the stock tune running 92 oct that I wonder why I ever screwed with it at all. But live and learn.

@@bwiren13 Also had 0 issues when it was stock, but it just wasn't fast enough for my taste, and now i'm in too deep to get out, so gotta just keep going till i fix it, aint no way i'm getting my monies worth otherwise. But man, blowing your engine twice sucks, this is why i'm planning to do my own engine build instead of buying something pre-assembled, if i can build it i can probably fix it, and when just taking my time, not rushing anything i think there is probably a lower chance of me screwing it up than some guy who is pressured to build these engines as fast as possible. But oh well, i chose to upgrade my car rather than just getting a faster one because i wanted something active to do next to my office job, and i sure got plenty of stuff to do now

Not at this time, but you can use a CZcamsDownloader website to do it using the link from this page!

It was a Fusion 2.5L with stock 2.0 (non-VCT) cams, plus headers/exhaust/tune. Sure miss that car sometimes.

Because we didn’t!

bro 5.6s to 60 is not slow by any means. Plus a Focus ST is an amazing car all to u need is lowering springs wrap and wheels to make it look good. I kinda want one.

That’s what i thought too until i actually bought one , Had always faked on the focus but the car still surprises me everyday when it comes to driving it daily, touge, or drag .

For sure, my Instagram is @ben_5144

Check out the two primary local clubs I race with! I will include links to the main event schedules below, where you can go sign up for events as they are posted (season runs March-October). You can also google these groups to get more info on the clubs, and we have Facebook groups you can join to get involved (easiest way)! Hope to see you out there! Bridge City Autosports (BCA): www.motorsportreg.com/orgs/bridge-city-autosports SCCA Oregon Region: www.motorsportreg.com/orgs/oregon-scca-solo

Yeah I really should retitle the video. I’m on my 3rd engine now (not headgasket related) and all three motors produce some level of steam on a cold start at 50°F ambient or below. Just a result of lots of fueling on cold start in a GDI motor.

They are fifteen52 Podium Super Touring 18x8.5” +45mm offset. I ran 245/40/18 Falken 200TW tires. They got so many compliments and look so clean on this car, the fitment on OEM suspension was perfection. I had been using them as a daily/track wheel, and ended up selling because I felt bad subjecting them to track abuse. I also started using the stock snowflake wheels as my dailys because all seasons in stock size are a much cheaper setup. Miss those Podiums a lot (although they were a huge pain to keep clean) :/

Highly recommend. Saved my ass

Agreed! Although my front plate lives in my glovebox heheh

@@bwiren13 mine was in my front windows until i got pulled over and had to mount to the exterior :(

@@davidblake4689damn good to know! Where were you pulled? Just a fix it ticket?

@@bwiren13 it was in the salem area heading south on lancaster st. fortunately they can’t pull you over specifically for the plate as it’s not a moving violation, but they can definitely write you up for it once they have you pulled

While I appreciate this comment, it simply doesn’t apply to this situation. Both engines experienced ringland failures due to cylinder heat expanding the rings past their critical point of expansion and closing the gap on Cylinder 4 first due to the temperature gradient resulting from an uneven coolant channel flowing right next to it inside the block. The factory exhaust on these cars is only a restriction over 400-410whp according to my own research and personal experience. The theory is correct but at my power levels your comment simply is not true. I was never in danger of lifting the head at just 25psi of boost. These motors are known to handle twice that when built properly, but the weakness is always the bottom end. A built motor was prohibitively expensive so I ended up going completely back to stock and swapping a third motor in with mileage that matched my odometer. Been enjoying my trouble-free hot hatch ever since :)

Neither engine was actually a head gasket. The head gaskets on these closed-deck 2.0L EcoBoosts are pretty strong. The weakness is the stock ring gaps, anywhere over factory boost levels you are flying VERY close to the sun even if you are very well tuned.

Both motors actually blew Cyl 4 rings due to LSPI at high boost. The first one was due to me adjusting the stock WGA to the maximum preload possible without tuning for an overboost condition, which induced LSPI while coming out of a sharp corner and fully loading the engine in an autocross at low RPM. The second motor went after I mistakenly stomped the throttle in 5th around 3000 RPM. I actually heard it misfire and “fart” when I did so, and immediately knew I screwed up. Same problem. Cylinder 4, 100psi compression. Dead hole.

she what now?

What year are you from lol

I did it myself. I just Sawzall’d the stock resonator off, then bought a couple 2.5” test pipes, and 2 band-style clamps from Autozone. Easy-peasy. I think it needed a diameter step down adapter on the downstream end, but I can’t remember the diameter. Might have been 2.25”.

thanks for the info. Was thinking of buying it also from autozone or just the bolt ons from MRT@@bwiren13

Fantastic! It’s tuned really nicely from the factory and well within the safety limits of the factory motor and turbo. I’ve only had issues with this car while tuned/modified. In stock form I have had zero engine issues, and the same goes for my friend who races his 2015 ST3 in stock class with me.

It was definitely a FWD-friendly event!