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Second Chance Garage
United States
Registrace 22. 04. 2019
Vlog of my activities in my garage.
Video
68 Chevy C10 Front Disc Brake Conversion
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 3 lety
67-70 Chevy Truck Disc Brake Conversion
Kick Panel/Side Vent Replacement
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 4 lety
67-72 Kick Panel/Side Vent replacement. Replacing the rusty footwell and side vent area on the drivers side of my cab. Music: www.bensound.com/
Cut 50 Pilot Start, Setup and First Use 12-20-19
zhlédnutí 135Před 4 lety
Unboxing, Setup and first cut using pilot start Cut50 I purchased off eBay. 12-20-19
68 Chevy C-10 rusty cowl repair part 3
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 5 lety
Cutting out the rust on my cowl/rain gutter.
OnlinePerformance.com trailing arm cross member review
zhlédnutí 759Před 5 lety
Adjustable trailing arm cross member from Onlineperformance.com
Bonus episode, Mig welding the mounting bracket for the rear mount fuel tank in my 68 Chevy C-10
zhlédnutí 73Před 5 lety
Bonus episode, Mig welding the mounting bracket for the rear mount fuel tank in my 68 Chevy C-10
67-72 Chevy custom rear fuel tank install part 2
zhlédnutí 1,5KPřed 5 lety
67-72 Chevy custom rear fuel tank install part 2
67-72 Chevy truck custom rear fuel tank install part 1
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 5 lety
67-72 Chevy truck custom rear fuel tank install part 1
67-72 Chevy C-10 firewall/cowl dismantling part 2
zhlédnutí 3,6KPřed 5 lety
67-72 Chevy C-10 firewall/cowl dismantling part 2
67-72 Chevy C10 cowl/firewall dismantling part 1
zhlédnutí 3,9KPřed 5 lety
67-72 Chevy C10 cowl/firewall dismantling part 1
Project SixEight. Follow along on my journey to build my 68 Chevy C-10 custom.
zhlédnutí 862Před 5 lety
Project SixEight. Follow along on my journey to build my 68 Chevy C-10 custom.
$2700 delivered at the time of this video in 2020, EXACT SAME LIFT IS NOW $4100 driving 4 hours to pick mine up.
Great tutorial! Thank you.
i did my posi 3 years ago, ive got side to side play now, im going to add some shims. thanks for the video, a little more volume would be great
Hello sir, after watching several videos of setting up the pinion gear-carrier group, your video is the Best straight forward video! Great job
Thanks. Appreciate it.
You made sense to me who has never done that before... Thank you 👍
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Very helpful thanks
Glad it helped
I’m building a 12 bolt, I didn’t use crush sleeve, I used a spacer and shims, what I’ve read pinion preload should be @25ip? Video was informative though
Thanks. I used what I had and I was unaware of spacers when I did it. Crush sleeve is what I’ve always done. 👍🏻
I can't watch this guy i feel asleep.
LOL. I have channels saved just for this. When I need a nap. Thanks though
Hey. I have a question. I took a part a 1971 Olds cutlass rear end to replace the bearings I needed mark the bearing caps need to know how I can know I put the right one on the right bearing and if there are on up side down or right. They have arrow on the caps do the arrows point to the axle or toward the 3rd member.
Where did you purchase the pinion depth tool
Summit
Buenos días me gustaría tener el vídeo en español gracias
How to Chang the guiars of a spring posi for a thing axol to a thicker one
best video i’ve seen.. Will be doing a conversion on my 68 SWB C10
how did it go? and what kit should i do for mine. im not fully sure on what kits are good
Thanks. Hoping to get back into action soon.
Definitely not your best work.
So much work
Is this a factory locker?
No
There is a little known trick to gain more caster by modifying the lower control arms pivots shafts. The hole on the shaft dictates the location of the entire lower control arm. It can be relocated further back, pushing the control arm forward, gaining almost 3-4 degrees more caster. Position it on the bottom perches and move for and check for clearance on the bushings, stops and all parts that move with it. Mark a spot back 3/8th of an inch or more, grind a tiny flat spot, drill a new hole starting with smaller to larger drill bits. It will fit the pin and the perch while placing the lower control arm further forward. This is extremely helpful for steering feel if adding power steering and aids in returnability. I am sure you are long done with this build, but others may benefit as well having less shims, no expensive aftermarket control arms and you don't need a drill press. Settings; Right 4 degrees Left 3.3 Best of luck! ASE Master tech since 1978, retired. (I was looking for part 4 of the firewall build)
This absolutely makes me happy about the lack of rust everywhere on my 1967 C10. Wow! Water, leaves, helicopter seeds, just everything finds its way down the side vents. Plus, in the factory, there is no paint, no dipping in 1967 and few places for seam sealer. You have built it! It should be yours and that's for sure. ASE Master, 1978-Retired
Those side vents can be a nightmare! I was lucky enough to snag a Texas 1967 C10 & decided to leave it alone metal wise because it's really good. I did get some water in the glove box though & I'm wondering if you've had that happen on yours. Either windshield rubber or open antenna hole maybe.
@@freemansgarage I placed tight SS mesh under my air box cover. This area behind the front fender is the worst on any vehicle much less the 67 - 72 C10 pickup. Regardless of the vehicle, the bottom fender bolt needs a tap ran try it and plenty or aluminum based anti-seize placed on this bolt, even if not removing. I can always predict which bolt will fight you thus requiring the touch of a hand. So ratchet and socket on bolt to rock back & forth as it tightens or loosens. I always take that opportunity and spray some kind of quality penetrating oil, run in and repeat. Work? Yes, but less work and drill and retap the bolt hole! Best of luck. DK. ASE Master Tech since 78.
@@deankay4434 I see what you're saying. That's a good tip.
Nice video very helpful! Do you know what size brake pads they are i have a C20 with a front disc brake conversion and i have no idea what brake pad size they are wondering if its D52?
Sorry. I don’t. The conversion kits use a heavy half ton stock parts.
Lot of work or fun for only 16 gal tank. thank you for sharing this video.
So year later just asking where's the pick up for the gas out? Thank you for sharing this video.
Whoa seems like a lot more work than just buying a replacement cowl and doing just spot welds, that way could clean whole underside channel out.
It’s not cowl itself. It’s all the metal underneath it. 👍🏻
I like the video, I have been building rear diffs professionally for over 25 years. 2 things that are missing. 1st once you have your backlash correct, you need to add a little more shim to both sides of your carrier. This is called carrier bearing preload. Without this preload you carrier will get loose as the bearings break in. Same reason you have pinion preload. If that diff ever gets noisy, this is why. Once it does you will need to start over with new gears. I would say you need an additional 10-15 thousandths total. So half of that per side. 2- the side of the tooth I saw with the marking compound was the coast side, I couldn’t see the drive side.
Thanks for the info. I’ll double check
When doing the preload on the pinion and career bearings, is it a good idea to do the checks with lightly oiled bearing or just set up with dry bearings?
Crush sleeve is such a pain. Spacer is way easier
Great video, would you mind telling me some of the distances. The ones I was wondering is, the one between the column and the wall, also the space you left in one in front and in the back.Thanks a lot for tour time.
Thanks. No problem. Post mounting flange to wall is 41”. Wall to actual post is 44”. Front of post to my racks is 16’6”. Back of post to my garage door is 16’. Hope this helps.
@@secondchancegarage9717 hey there SCG…I hope you see this. Would this lift fit under a 12’ ceiling? If it does, at its highest lift, could a 6’ man fit under that C10 without being all hunched over? Appreciate you posting this video. I am currently planning out my new shop and it revolves around the lift, lathes, and mill. Thanks .
Holy cowl! That's some serious tear down. Yes spot welds are a pain to take off even with spot weld remover bit.
they make that piece now.
Yes. I’m aware. But no way am I paying that price for them.
@@secondchancegarage9717 i hear ya its crazy how much.
Very good Review Sir. Thank you for your time.
Thank you for watching and giving your feedback. Always welcome.
Would you please give my youtube channel a subscribe
Now there's a tool upgrade I wish I could afford! Awesome!
Thanks. It’s a game changer.
I'm gonna be filling in the vents...I'm upgrading to ac, so the vents won't be used anyways...all they ever did was blow leaves & dirt into the cab, so I won't miss them...
Same here
If it's titled as a 69, then a previous owner probably swapped the hood & grille to make it a 67-68 in appearance & did a disc conversion on the front...I'm building a 69 long bed...good start on your project...👍🏿
Thanks. Yes I have a 69 title. I’m piecing it together and calling it a 68 cause that’s my favorite. Cab frame and front clip all came from diff places.
You have the upper ball joint bolts in backwards , The nuts should be on top to avoid rubbing on the grease boot .
Nice job and you are like a lot of us if you don’t bleed you aren’t done lol.
Every project 😂
Nice video Sean
Glad you enjoyed it
@@secondchancegarage9717 Hope you are doing good these days. Stay motivated!
👍👍👍NICE WORK IM PLANNING ON MOVING THE TANK OUT OF THE CAB BUT WAS THINKING OF USING A 1996 F150 REAR TANK BUT THIS LOOKS GOOD TO
Thanks man. Great video
Thanks
Takes time for a hard working man to build his dream!! Second chances my man!!
Ive also been making a how to series pretty in depth on how to restore the 67-72 cabs.. Hopefully it helps some folks. I tried to talk it through step by step...
Nice. Subscribed. Thanks
"I ended up with a jet boat." We've all been there! Great video! How heavy are the vertical posts? Are they light enough to just walk them up to standing by hand?
😂. Yes we just walked them up. The first one we stood up the put then cylinder in. The second one we put the cylinder in before and it made it a lot heavier.
Where did that tank come from?
Summit. its for a 65 Mustang i believe
Lookin good!
He lives!
Yes. Sorry. Been a busy summer
Can you get your hands on another set for me? I’ve been looking for both sides
Key parts makes a new replacement part but they aren’t cheap. I just found someone scrapping a cab. I don’t know if any at the moment.
Can you get your hands on a other set for me? I’ve been looking for both sides
What's the length of the bolt holes center to center on the end that bolts to the frame
3.25 I believe
I just put the very same gas tank in my 1952 Ford F-1 pickup. Had to trim the bottom of the chassis like you did. But I had to remove the factory crossmember forward several inches to allow the tank to fit. Other than that, everything fits like a factory installation.
P.S. I re-used the rear bumper to give some protection to the tank. The tank is now out from behind the seat, but now it's vulnerable to rear crashes. My bumper will handle minor hits with ease.
How did you run the filler neck I really need it for 72 chev. c-20
@@crawfordlodge6897 Nothing fancy....straight up through the bed...I don't haul anything, so it's not an issue.
Good to see you back. Im finally getting to my cab metal work also. Working on DS rocker /corner hopefully within the next week. Replaced A pillar last weekend. Went good. got a thread going asked for help but im just going at it throwing pics up haha
Thanks for the video. Sorry about the heart attack, hope your doing well. I have an a 72 on air ride and I am wanting to do the same as I still have the stock tank behind the seat. Does the mustang fuel level sender work well with the factory fuel gauge in the truck?
Ford senders are a different ohm reading than Chevy. I will be running aftermarket gauges so that didn’t bother me. Someone may make an adapter? Thanks for watching.
As long as you get the correct ohms if not it should still work but might not show correct full or low