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pannonic mechanic
Registrace 27. 07. 2021
My profession is Mechanic and that´s the Main Subject of this CZcams Channel.
I show you repairing tips, tell you about my hobbies/interests and what i do in my leisure.
Every three weeks i try to upload a new video, please be patient.
I show you repairing tips, tell you about my hobbies/interests and what i do in my leisure.
Every three weeks i try to upload a new video, please be patient.
Headlight bulb replacement on a Hyundai Accent LC
#pannonicmechanic
In this video i show you, how to replace the Headlight bulb/H4 on a Hyundai Accent LC. It´s similar to the Accent from the year 2000-2005. The left side (in my case) is a bit tricky because of the space. On the right side it´s easier.
Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
In this video i show you, how to replace the Headlight bulb/H4 on a Hyundai Accent LC. It´s similar to the Accent from the year 2000-2005. The left side (in my case) is a bit tricky because of the space. On the right side it´s easier.
Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
zhlédnutí: 74
Video
Kia Pride/Rio Timing Belt, Afterwork
zhlédnutí 94Před 3 měsíci
#pannonicmechanic In this video you can see, how we reassemble that car after replacing the timing belt. I was helping a friend to do this and as you see, he is very correct and uses torques. Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
Kia Pride/Rio Timing Belt short
zhlédnutí 296Před 6 měsíci
#pannonicmechanic In this video you can see the important steps for replacing the timing belt on a Kia Pride/Rio 1.6. For more information please look at the long version on my channel. Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
Kia Pride/Rio Timing Belt long
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 6 měsíci
#pannonicmechanic In this video you can see, how i assist a friend to replace the timing belt on his Kia Pride/Rio 1.6. He is a very accurate guy, so he checks every process double and he uses torques, not like me. ;) Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
Kia Pride/Rio Timing Belt Pre Work
zhlédnutí 304Před 7 měsíci
#pannonicmechanic A friend of me gave me some material to make videos from. In this video you can see the pre-work for replacing the timing belt on a 2009 Kia Pride/Rio JB with a 1.6l engine. Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
Kia Rio Cabin filter replacement
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 8 měsíci
#pannonicmechanic In this video you can see a friend of me, how he changes the cabin filter on his Kia Rio JB/2009. Enjoy watching. :) Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
Casio G-Shock Battery replacement
zhlédnutí 245Před 9 měsíci
#pannonicmechanic In this video is show you, how to replace the battery on a Casio G-Shock DW-9005. You need 1 CR2016 battery and it´s necessary to do a reset on the watch after the replacement. Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
VW Passat Wiring Harness repair
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 10 měsíci
#pannonicmechanic In this video you can see, how i fix the wiring harness on my Father´s car, a VW Passat 3B. None of the interior lights were burning, but the worst thing was, that he couldn´t open the fuel cap any more. I found that many wires on the left side were broken because of oxidation. So i tried to do a soldering job to connect the wires again and put shrink tubes on them. It was not...
Reverse Gear Problem without solution-Sound On please
zhlédnutí 667Před 11 měsíci
#pannonicmechanic I got a comment what to do when this happen, when you can´t switch into reverse gear at the first try. The "problem" is, when you want to drive backwards, you need 3 gear wheels for that and sometimes they don´t line up. So there are 2 solutions, i show you both: 1. You push in the reverse gear with a little bit force. 2. You go back to neutral, release the clutch and try to s...
Window Regulator replacement
zhlédnutí 345Před rokem
#pannonicmechanic In this video i show you, how to replace the front window regulator on a 2005 Hyundai Accent. I did it on a few cars and i would say, it´s easy to do on this model. Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
How to replace Parking Lights on a 2005 Hyundai Accent
zhlédnutí 628Před rokem
#pannonicmechanic In this video you can see, how to replace the front parking lights on a 2005 Hyundai Accent. It´s easy and done quickly. I removed the radiator grille for the video. When you have thin arms like me ;), you can do it without removing the grille. 01:15 Removing right lamp base 01:50 Insert right lamp base 02:18 Removing left lamp base 03:10 Insert left lamp base Video created wi...
How to bake some biscuits (Sajtos pogácsa) Food for the Pannonic Mechanic :)
zhlédnutí 38Před rokem
#pannonicmechanic In this video i show you, how i bake some cheese biscuits. (Sajtos pogácsa) It´s not very complicated, but hard work to knead the paste. Pogácsa is a popular little goody in the Pannonic Area. Please learn this and other things from your mothers and grandmothers. 07:28 Eating cheese and watching the biscuits. :) Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
Cleaning a sad Swiss Army Knife
zhlédnutí 614Před rokem
#pannonicmechanic I bought that Swiss Army Knife on a flea market. You can see in this video, how i clean it and sharpen the blade, luckily it was not in a bad condition. I like these knives very much, i like the good quality. If you own one, you will know what i mean. Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
Oxygen Sensors located on a 2005 Hyundai Accent
zhlédnutí 3,5KPřed rokem
#pannonicmechanic In this short video you can see, where the Oxygen Sensors are located on a 2005 Hyundai Accent with a 1.3l engine. At the other ones they should be on similar places. Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
Trailer 2
zhlédnutí 359Před rokem
#pannonicmechanic Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18 www.movavi.de
License plate lighting bulb replacement
zhlédnutí 504Před rokem
License plate lighting bulb replacement
Fixing the Noise (Replacing the Strut Bearing)
zhlédnutí 277Před rokem
Fixing the Noise (Replacing the Strut Bearing)
Fuel Pump replacement/Hyundai Accent LC
zhlédnutí 30KPřed rokem
Fuel Pump replacement/Hyundai Accent LC
Working in the Garden and being crazy. :)
zhlédnutí 61Před rokem
Working in the Garden and being crazy. :)
Nice
Thank you. :)
How did you diagnose it was fuel pump?
It didn´t had a malfunction, i wanted only to show how to do this job, because someone asked for it.
0:24
Exactly.
Great video How do u tighten and loosen the crankshaft bolt?
I have a compressor, so i use an impact wrench.
Is this a 1.6 correct? What was the torque for all the bolts? Great video
No, it´s a 1.3. If you need torques for a 1.6 engine, you could watch my videos which i made of a Kia Pride/Rio. That´s a 1.4 engine, but very similar to a 1.6.
Good video Thanks brother 🏆🤔
Thanks for your nice words. Your welcome. :)
How reliable is this engine??
I say it´s a very reliable engine. My first Accent had 377.000km when i crashed it. :( The only things i did on the engine were the hydraulic valve lifters, the valve sealings because of oil consumption and the oil sump because of rust. It was never necessary to replace the cylinderhead gasket, piston rings or any other big repair. I did oilchange every 10.000km and replaced the timing belt every 90.000km.
@@pannonicmechanic Thanks. The reason I'm asking is that I have a car with similar engine(Accent) but it uses carburator and distributor. The car doesn't want to start. What could be the problem
First i would check if the car has fuel and ignition. Sure you could check the timing also. Is there a story behind that car?
Do you know any projector lights that can be used on this Hyundai Accent model?
Sorry, but i don´t know because in my country it´s not allowed to use them.
@@pannonicmechanic okie thank you.. btw i added fully automatic foldable mirrors to mine using Honda civic EK3 mirrors. they fits perfectly, but i had to make a custom wiring harness tho.
Sounds nice, but also a lot of work. I´m happy about your success. Keep going.
@@pannonicmechanic yeah it was.. had to figure out how to incorporate Honda civic mirrors with Hyundai mirror control panel. had to spent couple on bench testing to figure out what wire goes where. after that it was just wiring.. but totally worth it tho. no more manual folding mirrors and manual adjustments.
good job. I'm waiting to see more videos
Thank you very much. I give my best, but i must work on my house this year.
I did every thing but after finishing the car doesn't start just high bombs and smoke
When the engine worked fine before you did that job, please check the timing marks again. Did you remove the spark plug wires on the ignition coils too? They can also cause such a problem.
Where did you get your timing belt? Both Amazon, and Autozone gave me the wrong belt. Different tooth style.
I got it from a car parts store here in the town. Normally i go there, beacuse they have parts with good quality and it´s easy and fast, when something doesn´t fit. It´s sad to hear, that you got from two shops the wrong parts. Don´t you have a local dealer for car parts near to you?
Perfect
Thank you! :)
Timing belt Hyundai eon
Sorry, but i´m not familiar with the Hyundai Eon. I´m sure there are similarities, but i don´t know the details.
New hyundai do that too The fork whom presses the clutch bearing is weak And the slave cylinder not go all the curse everytime Sometimes you need pump 2 ,3 times to engage reverse
In my opinion you have another problem. In my case it happens, that you can´t put the reverse gear completely for the first time, because there are 3 gear wheels for that. I had on my first Hyundai another problem. I noticed that it´s hard to change the gears and the pressure of the clutch is weaker. So i tried to replace the fluid in the clutch system and that helped for a few months. I had that problem a few times and maybe the real solution was, to replace the clutch cylinders. Unfortunately i crashed that car and so i never really fixed that problem.
i have this issue too 😆. thank you for sharing
Your welcome.
love all your videos, I appreciate all your effort for all your videos. here i have hyundai avega (accent) and I learn a lot from you!. I have this problem too but worse, I have to switch to 2nd or 4th to do a reverse. if the gear previously in 1st, 3rd, or 5th I cant switch to reverse at all. this happen after i change the transmission seal lever on the top. the my mechanic hit with a hammer really hard when diassembling the shifter cable.
Thanks for your nice words. That doesn´t sound good. It seems your mechanic made some damage, that´s not the correct way. :(
@@pannonicmechanic may i know where u from? and is that a popular car in your country?
@wahyunurdiansyah6935 I´m from Hungary, but i live in Austria. Many years ago this was a relative popular car here, but the people here like to buy european cars and also the japanese brands.
Respect!
Thank you! :)
How many miles you got clocked? Been thinking of grabbing an accent lately seen very reliable and easy to fix.
Now i have about 167.000km (about 103.000mls) on the car. I have the same thoughts. I think it´s an underrated car and i´m very satisfied with it. This is my second Accent, the first i bought as new and had unfortunately an accident with total damage after 19 years and with 377.000km (234.000mls) on it.
@@pannonicmechanic 200 miles! Hell yeah, perfect, just gave me some comfort in buying one, found one at 72k miles for $6k can't wait!
@Saffroncarp1106 How old is that car? Is the price really 6000$ ?
@@pannonicmechanic it's an 07 and yeah it's $6k then 7k after tax and title transfer, it's far from me though. Thinking there might be an issue tho it's a Toyota dealership so I'm kinda less sussed
Are there only 2 lambda sensors in this car? I have P0141 code and i need to change second lambda sensor (this bottom onw i guess). Btw, thanks for your videos. This car is great, very nice to drive and super easy to repair, also parts are cheap. With your instructions, its so nice to spend a time with repairing this car :)
Yes, that car has only 2 lambda sensors. I´m not sure about the error code, but the sensors are named with sensor 1 and sensor 2. 1 should be the top and 2 the bottom sensor. I´m happy that you like my videos, thanks for your nice words. It´s the same fact, why i also like this car. I think it´s an underrated one.
Perdón... No levantaste tapa completa y tampoco revisaste botadores hidráulicos... No es por mal sino por preguntar.. gracias
¿A qué te refieres con cobertura total? Todos los elevadores hidráulicos fueron reemplazados.
Amigo yo tengo un yhundai accet año 2000 cuanfo calienta pierde toda la fuerza que sera yano se que hacer me ayudas al gunaves an pasado por esa falla ya probe 2 pares de inyectores y nada
Hola. ¿Revisaste la correa de distribución/las marcas de distribución? ¿Tiene chispa en todos los cilindros?
Thank you
Your welcome.
my man, really hope u see this soon, I'm doing this job + H2O pump (what failed initially)... problem is, it's my mother in law's (or as i introduce her, simply "mud")... and if i don't get this right?? She'll be holding the power....we can't have that, understand? On her 2003 Accent 1.6L, the lower timing cover (the plastic POS that is probably going to crumble away for ANY person doing this job in 2024 & beyond) has manufacturer markings on the lower left side, close to where that protruding lip comes out.... one of the markings is "T".... Now, there's like a bundle of different "procedure manuals" that I've seen owners post snap shots of in Hyundai forums for instance... in one of those i reviewed (& ONLY in that particular one from I've seen thus far) it tells u that for the Crank timing alignment, that "T" on the lower plastic cover is your guide to use.... it's basically in the same relative position as the little "dot notch marking" that you reference, but on the left side of the crank..... there's also other markings on the left that also are in line with that "T".... like a notch with white paint on it for instance.... now, on the metal wheel that gets put on before the crank pulley (the wheel that the belt will connect to at the crank), there's a manufacturer's marking of an arrow on one of the pegs or whatever they are.... and IT WAS/IS pointing directly to the notch on the right side that u also reference here... I'm sitting here on day 2 now questioning what direction to go... the cover literally says T & is referenced somewheres as the TDC for crank position... what do u think.... if this is something I'd figure out by continuing?? well i will admit, i might not figure it out ... really though, I'm terrified to destroy it & be up the creek with "mudder".... can u direct me perhaps?? And also, is there any fail safe measure that could be done after everything is all buttoned up, to ENSURE TDC HAS BEEN ACCOMPLISHED??? I like true crime... but i never want to be part of it in real life if u know what i mean...lol, mud is somebody who makes u volunteer to loosen crank bolts without a battery just to escape. S.O.S.
Hi. I hope i´m not too late, i tried to answer you as fast as i could. The reason for the two marks is simple, but the the good news is, both are the same. That one on cover has the reason, when you want to check the timing of the engine "without" removing v-belts, engine mount bracket, etc. For this you must only remove the top cover of the timing belt and you see the marks of the camshaft and the crankshaft. Another reason can be, when you want to check the ignition with a strobe lamp. Otherwise this makes not much sense any more, because you can´t adjust it. The other marks on the crankshaft you see in my video, is when you definitely want to replace the timing belt and you removed all the parts. So you have the marks on the pulley and the engine and you can continue your job. On the camshaft there is a spring pen and on the crankshaft you have a parallel key, so it´s nearly impossible to mount them wrong. So if you are careful with these parts, it´s relatively safe to do this job. The biggest mistake you can make is, when the alignement of the timing marks is not correct and when you make a mistake by tensioning. Therefore please always turn the engine minimum two rotations after replacing the timing belt and check the marks and the tension again. When you do the job by this way, your mother in law will be satisfied. :) I hope i could help you a little bit. Please tell me if i can help you further.
@@pannonicmechanic you're perfect my man, thanks for the quick response... let's just get one thing straight ya hear, you're wrong, i could sprinkle pixy dust on this vehicle, so it could fly around to points A & B in its own lane, and mudder in law will STILL exhibit behavior that causeth the Righteous to have thoughts of true crime. I usually won't complete something unless i feel i completely grasp what any teacher (CZcamsrs that seems to have the understanding, local mechanics, inner circle people, etc)...& in doing this particular repair for the first time, I'm struggling to know why transferring current belt markings to new belt has any relevance whatsoever (just about all video/info site out there says to do so)....i saw 1 where a Hyundai dealership mechanic just "filming his routine without any audio really" doesn't mark anything, he just quickly swaps them out & does the 2 full cam rotations... what help does belt markings do besides create panic if they're a tooth off for whatever reason? Is it not safe to say that as long as you complete the manual crank rotations & align at the end, that you're fine?? And what happens if you do all that and they're not aligned? Can that happen (or does that mean u keep rotating until alignment happens top & bottom)... is there any event that might cause those 2 to not be in agreement at their "end points?"...... From my first time at this, I've also learned that it seems to be the tensioner causing not just the most problems for install, but the most causes for shop returns (usually within weeks too)... you mentioned this point in your reply.... if u don't mind, what is the best way to go about this again?? I just about stripped the spring bolt hole out (not because of your video)...i saw in another that is passed around as technician approved in Hyundai forums where they leave the long hole bolt out while doing the spring side... anyway, I'm back over here trying to button this up, but refuse to just slap that tensioner on not knowing if it's solid... the wife requested mudder to hang around longer, otherwise, it "might've" been some school glue & scotch tape to complete the job ... So, is this correct u think?? Install tensioner, both bolts, but leave both loose (if so, HOW loose & equally?? like should long hole be tight to help relieve some of the force of prying the spring to position?? Or in making long hole bolt tight, will that put unwanted force on spring bolt??).... then, u loosen long hole to push up the tensioner body, then tighten in its elevated state right?? then belt gets installed?? then long hole is loosened to lower the body in place for tension?? Then both tensioner bolts are torqued to roughly 19ft/lb's ?? then turn crank twice for timing alignment??? And finally, when removing crank bolt after everything seems right, will any of the movement from loosening it to install cover, harmonic balancer, etc., as well as then tightening it for torque, will that movement need corrected or adjusted as well??? is that then, why we have the different marking on the lower cover, to use as reference for doing another 2 rotations? i really appreciate your advice, sorry it's really wordy, i just have to think many if not most rookies at this come to similar questions.... Thanks again
@Atonement Thanks for your nice words. Oh man. We have a proverb for this: You can choose your friends, but not your relatives. But i´m sure that lady has positive sites too. She is the mother of a wonderful woman, who is your wife? :) I´m happy about your attitude to this job and i try to help you to understand. There are many ways to replace a timing belt, in my video i tried you to show the correct one. I don´t want to say, that i´m always right or whatever. But doing by this way you should be able to do it correct and to check the very important details, which are really important. If you don´t take care about these, you have a big engine failure and in the worst case you need another car. It´s important to line up the timing marks, because the pistons and the valves (crankshaft and camshaft) are then in the correct position. When the crankshaft mark lines up, the piston of the first cylinder is on the top dead center. When the camshaft lines up, the valves of the first cylinder are closed. Should something happen by replacing the timing belt, disassembling the whole engine, whatever. You can always turn the engine to the timing marks and the engine components are in the right position. That can be always a new start. These are the basics, how an internal combustion engine works. If you are wrong by only one tooth, the car needs more fuel, does not have accceleration, doesn´t start or the pistons hit the valves and damage them. Therefore these marks are so important. So you must line up the timing marks, loosen the timing belt, replace it with a new one, tighten the new belt, check the marks, do two rotations, check the marks again, and check the tension of the timing belt. These are the basics. When you install the new timing belt, you should put it on the tensioner pulley as last wheel. It must be the loosest point, otherwise the tensioner can´t move/do it´s job. I tried to show you the easiest way to replace the tensioner and assemble the spring again. That´s one of the most trickiest details, because you must press against the spring. If you remove the bolt from the long hole, it may be easier to put the spring in it´s position, but then you must press the whole tensioner and screw in the bolt. Normally that´s harder to do. If you let the bolts of the tensioner loose, it should be about a half or one rotation, not more. So that you can move the tensioner easy into both directions. All other steps you described were correct, please do it by this way. When you assembled all the parts together, you can do again two rotations to check the timing again and for this you can use the marks on the timing belt cover and on the v-belt pulley of the crankshaft. To be honest, i never did this beuase i had no problems after assembling after replacing the timing belt. I hope i could help you with these explanations and wish you good success by doing this job. Please keep me updated.
عندي هينداي اكسنت باس تحمه المرش بيعض
ماذا تقصد بالرشاش؟
somebody in another video said: You have to retard the timing marks ever so slightly because the tensioner will move the belt slightly when you release tension onto the belt. - Does this make sense? Should I go with my marks or does it need to be slightly off the marks???
I recommend to line up the timing marks correctly. Once i did this job on another car and the timing was wrong by a half tooth. The engine didn´t start.
Normally in most cases , the car will start if 1 tooth off,but will not run as good. May misfire, may be weak etc. .....but ok , gonna just keep it on the marks, that is if I can ever get the CS pulley bolt out. @@pannonicmechanic
If that happens, the timing is not correct and the engine doesn´t work correct. Once that mistake happened to me and the customer was not satisfied. The car needed much more fuel and had no acceleration, so i had to do the whole job again and my boss wasn´t happy. In the case of the timing belt it´s better to be very very conscientious, a little mistake can be very expensive.
Hallo from Indonesia sir. Please. Can you make a tutorial of installing power steering and waterpump pulley for hyundai avega?
I mean accent
Hi. Do you mean the double pulley on the waterpump?
@@pannonicmechanic yes sir
@muhammadnurifanhartoyo8458 I have another video in progress, where is show this better. I try to finish that as soon as possible.
@muhammadnurifanhartoyo8458 I finished that video, unfortunately it´s not easy to film that part. Here is the link: czcams.com/video/-Okz-_njd3M/video.html It starts at Minute 02:36. The easiest way to mount both pulleys is for me, to bring the waterpump in the position 12 o´clock and align the pulleys by the same way. It looks easy in the video, but i was frustrated many times by doing this. I hope i could help you with that.
I have the same car ! from now on i will follow all your videos ! Please make more videos whenever you replace or fix something in this car ! I can't thank you enough !
Thanks for your nice words. I will do my best, but in the last time the car runs good.
Thanks for the reset trick
Your welcome. :)
*PromoSM* 😈
Este video me fue de gran ayuda para poder remplazar esos filtros. Gracias!!
De nada. :)
I swear this engine seems so easy to work on
That´s also my opinion. I was working on other cars/engines too, asian and european, but this is one of the mechanic friendliest engines of the 2000 aera. The only easier ones were some of the 80s, with no power steering, ac and only one v-belt.
Very nice. If just replacing belt and not the adjuster another idea is to loosen the adjuster tension just like in the video. Then rotate engine while with a sharp knife cutting the timing belt in half length wise. Remove the half closest yourself. Slide new belt onto timing belt cogs and push up to the 1/2 width original belt. Cut and remove remaining original belt. Push the replacement belt all the way on the cogs. Loosen adjuster.
Thanks for your nice words. Your method is interesting, but i would be afraid to damage the new timing belt.
@@pannonicmechanic Just use the knife on the old belt. Of course this method is for persons not sure of timing mark alignment and such.
@josephbingham1255 Ok, that´s a good explanation. Because this is/was my profession, i know about the timing marks and if you don´t have, you should make some with paint. When the engine was running good, you can make marks on each pulley in the correct way and it should be ok.
Удивило меня, что там аж 4 батарейки🤭
Я тоже, но ты должен это принять. :)
Thanks for letting me know how to do it. Cheers!
Your welcome. :)
What type of batteries does this watch have?
The battery type is 395. As you see in the video, you need 4 of them.
Saludos. Yo le cambie a mi auto todos los elevadores y sigue haciendo ruido. Que problema podria ser??
Hola. Tengo este problema también. Sospecho que mis líneas de aceite están obstruidas.
Cool vid, thanks, it helped le locate them on mine. Got CEL and the code is for O2 sensor. Could you let me know what the top sensor connected to? Whatever it is, on my car it has a rusted hole in it, and I wonder if that could have a part in the issue and if patching that up might help.
Thanks for your nice words, i´m happy that the video is helpful for you. The top sensor is connected with a 4-Pin connector to the main harness of the car. It is only about 20-30cm from the O2-sensor, you find it when you follow the wire. It´s an interesting issue you have. Where is the rusted hole? On the O2-sensor?
@@pannonicmechanic thanks for the reply. It turns out that rusted hole is just the heat shield. I took it to the shop they said that wouldn't turn on the CEL light. There is an exhaust leak just under between the top and bottom sensors they said could be throwing off the sensors.
@djgeorge1469 I would like to tell you my experiences. On my first Accent it was necessary to replace the catalytic converter about 2 times. Some of the aftermarket parts doesn´t last so long and so one day the emissions were too high. When i removed that part, i noticed that the catalytic converter itself and the exhaust manifold were separated, because the weld seam was broken. The second thing was, that the flexible part of the exhaust system was broken and so i cutted it out and welded in a new part. You could check this two parts because of a leaking, maybe this is the solution for your problem. Third: On my first Accent the top O2 sensor was broken, so i had to replace it. The Check Engine Light was on and the car had very high emissions. After replacing everything was ok again, but when you drive around too long with a broken O2 sensor, the catalytic converter gets damaged. That happened to me and 100.000km later i replaced that part. I would recommend you to check for leakings, if you have some, please fix them. You can also check the connectors and the wiring for oxidation and damages. Sometimes this is the only issue. If the check engine light is still burning, check the error codes and the function of the O2 sensors, if they are broken, please replace them. If possible, please make an emission test. If these are too high, you must replace the catalytic converter. I hope i could help you a little bit.
@@pannonicmechanic back in january the flange by the catalytic converter rusted off so they did a weld job on that. The the current leak is on the flexible part. Looks like there was a previous patch job on it from before which I forgot about, but it didn't take and is leaking again. The condition of it it looks like that portion of the exhaust should be replaced. Thanks for your Accent history. There is some overlap there in our issues, and I'm always happy to learn new info about how cars work and issues to keep note of. Cheers.
@djgeorge1469 If there already was a repair job and it´s not in a good condition, maybe it´s better to replace the whole part. I´m happy that i could help you with the history of my first Accent. That´s the reason for this youtube channel, to help other people and share my experiences. I wish you a nice weekend. :)
I didm my 2000 escort, it was a nightmare ..... took me 3 days. .... ....only to find out some 100 miles later why my car now has no power, had to get back & move the belt 1 tooth. ..... a week later old watre pump started leaking bad. few months later my Serpentine belt broke. .... Now, what I thought was a nightmare job doing the timing belt on a 2000escort ....... Once you know what youre doing, I could do the whole job in 1.5 hours or less. maybe even an hour if I prepped and had all tools out ready. ..sucks looking thru massive tools just to get the one you need. .Im all for get ONLY the tools needed for the job & maybe a few odd tools long screwdriver etc etc. so all the tools you need are right there easy access. The nightmare job 1st time was no where near as bad as This one looks in the video.
I´m sad that you first experience was not that good, but you can learn from these mistakes. One tooth doesn´t look much, but for the timing belt it can cause big problems. On my fathers car it was only a half tooth and the engine didn´t start. As i did that job for my father, i also replaced the waterpump. I only not do this on my own car. Please don´t be deceived about the short videos, because they are cutted. It´s sure possible to do this procedere faster, but i think about 3 hours are realistic. Under 1 hour it must be a car with very less components to remove. These were older cars from the 80s with no AC, no power steering, no engine mounting bracket to remove. We had a 1987 Opel Kadett and i replaced the timing belt on the street, because the car was broken down. I would recommend you buy tool sets. You don´t know, when you must do another job and so it´s good to know, that you are prepared for them too. And when you are successful, you are motivated to do more. :)
I need to gather a list of EVERY SINGLE TOOL needed for this job. Im assuming 10s,12,14,15,22 , screwdrivers flat, prybar, long ratchet short ratchet and a few wrenches. .... maybe bols for bolts with bluetape & label the bowls where they go.
A good preparation is important for this job and any others too. I hope my videos help you to see, what you need.
My car now has 98k on it & every day I think..............today could be the day the belt fails. so Im watching as many vids trying to learn as much as I can.
I understand you, it´s a combination of miles/kilometres and time. Hyundai recommends to replace the timing belt every 90.000km/55.000miles or about 5-6 years on this engine. Others may be different. If you got them, you should replace the timing belt as soon as possible. I like your attitude, to learn as much you can about this. I´m sure you will be successful.
once the new belt was on, and tensioner tight....... at that point is where i fired my car up. just to be sure it sounds good,then proceeded with the belts etc etc.
Normally i do the same, because i want to find out early if it works or not. It´s important to mount the crankshaft pulley, otherwise the timing belt can run down.
well yeh, definately tighten the CS pulley, snug up everything, I was just saying ...... i wanna know it was a success A.S.A.P after getting the belt on , THEN i can continue on doing the water pump & steering pump etc,belts etc. When I did my ford, as soon as I had things secure with the timing belt, didnt do anything else,just fired it up & it sounded good . Gave it a few pedal pumps,sounded good .......took a break,feeling good, then finished up.@@pannonicmechanic
We both do it by the same way. I wish you a nice weekend. :)
why does the top timing mark, the blotched white area.......... why is it Not a simple straight line mark? instead its a 1/2" wide blotch. kinda vague for getting perfect timing
I can only say, the manufacturer did that decision. The white mark with paint can be from a Mechanic, there is a milled line mark on the pulley. With paint it´s easier to find.
You know that's pretty common, once you've actually got the light in it you'd see that it gets a strobe and it really will line up well looking thru the light if you were adjusting your distributor it really just shows up at the match mark
That´s a good idea, you can see the timing mark with a strobe. But you should do this, when your engine runs fine to find it, or to check after timing belt replacement if it´s still correct. I don´t know your car, but for mine i don´t need a strobe, because i can´t adjust the distributor. Do you have another type of ignition?
when you tighten the crankshaft toward the end ...... it takes more torque than the engine can freely handle without starting to turn under the pressure. .... On my ford, I just hit the ratchet end with a hammer to get that last Tightness. Also- Surprised you didnt replace the water pump & other belts.
For tightening the crankshaft there is a torque, but you need a tool you see in my video to hold the crankshaft pulley. This torque is for my Hyundai 180-200Nm. On your Ford i don´t know, sorry. It´s an important part, i hope your method will work. How did you open that bolt? I replaced the v-belts with new ones, unfortunately you can´t see in the video. But the waterpump is the old one, you are right. I did so, because it was not really old and i hate cooling fluid on my hands. So i do this job on my car only, when it´s really necessary.
anybody know if the 1.3 procedure is the same as a 1.6 procedure??
The procedere is for me very similar on a 1.6 engine too. I did that job on a Kia Pride/Rio and made a video about it. That should be more helpful for you, when you have the 1.6 engine.
Why on earth is this a $500 labor job?
You mean it will cost you 500$ in a workshop?
yes, they told me labor is $500@@pannonicmechanic
I learnt my profession in a workshop so i know the situation. The $500 is a combination from parts, working hours, etc. I don´t know where you live, but here in Europe where i live, one hour costs more than 100 euro. I heard from workshops, where one hours costs more than 220 euro. I´m talking about only "1 hour". The fuel pump as an original part can cost also more than 100 euro, maybe 200 also. Then they calculate you also checking the error codes, disposal of parts, etc. I don´t think that this is fair, but they are working by this. On the other side the workshops have high expenditures. They must pay rent, electric power, heating, the workers. With an older car i would recommend you to look for a cheaper workshop and you could buy the parts by yourself. And at least you could try to repair your car by yourself, thats why i´m doing my videos, to assist you.
@@pannonicmechanicOh okay that is more understandable when you break it down. i an in the states, and they are telling my $1,000+ just to fix fuel pump. but this doesnt seem to difficult to do if all i have to do is replace the fuel pump. I drive a 2019 hyundai, so its not tht old. ill look into the owners manual and see if i can do it. i rly dont have the $ rn 😢 and i work using my car, so i gotta figure somethin out
@worscohli I´m happy that you understood my explanation. I would recommend you to look for a part by yourself, maybe aftermarket. You see in my video, that it´s not too complicated to replace. Your car will be different as mine, unfortunately i don´t know your car. You can check the owner´s manual, but it will be not helpful. They don´t write these informations there. You need a workshop manual. I wish you good success.
Cómo limpiar el cuerpo de válvulas de un jiunday accen
Thank you sir
Your welcome. :)
Excellent video and thanks.
Thanks for your nice words. Your welcome. :)
Where is the second part
What do you mean with second part?
Thank you so much broo
Your welcome. :)