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Thank you!

Thank you! I have a tricky inside profiling job and the through tool coolant will be a huge help for clearing chips. As far as I can tell, Haas never planned on through - tool coolant on these older machines - come to think of it, at the time of manufacturing (1997) through tool coolant might not have even existed!

I don't recall the actual length- my suggestion is to buy a belt that is too long and to cut it to length as I did in the video. I can take a measurement for you, but theres a lot of variation in belt length from model to model. This is a 1965 South Bend 10L. I suggest setting the adjustment to the shortest possible adjustment, and then engage the drive lever to move the pulleys apart. Use a garment measuring tape or string at the middle of the pulleys to get a total belt length. If you are using laced belts, you don't need any additional length. If you are using a glued / lap belt, then add a few inches of length to account for the overlap. Lace it /glue it up and mount it, a little slack is preferred at this point. Then adjust the tensioner as necessary to take up the small amount of slop in the belt.

@RocanMotor I called Squirrel Daddy, the company I got the belt from, and they sold me a strip of lace for $10. I have the lacing tool, so I'm going to shorten it. I have to make 2 4" belts for the 18" American, so it'll all work out. I'll just order more than I need from McMaster Carr. I don't prefer the 1" I got because it's so thin. 0.061"

@@speedhuntersrb we've got some on the way!

Привет, надеюсь, вы меня понимаете, я использую переводчик. В видео использована ракушечная мельница диаметром около 300 мм. Он справился с этим легко. Я думаю, что этот станок TOS может работать практически с любым резаком ISO40.

@@RocanMotor Большое спасибо! Смотрел по отзывам хороший станок , говорт, кто на нем работал

1800rpm, 120/240vac, single phase, 1.5hp. I'm running it on 240vac in this setup. Its okay if there's a slight mismatch in speed- since the pulleys are slightly different in size after the idler motor starts it slows down the pony motor.

Nice! I believe the HL2 had an option for a tailstock? That's the biggest shortcoming of the HL1, I think.

@@RocanMotor Yeah i needed the Tailstock......But you CANT Beat the Price you paid!!

@@DJ-yp4kc couldn't agree more!

Thanks for the heads up and tips! Going on 3 months now without any new issues, so fingers crossed I won't have to replace the caps just yet. Its also my understanding that even the newest servo drives are all plug and play.

@@RocanMotor Trouble is with tants it when you have to replace them because they've finally failed they often do so much damage that repair isn't viable and it's not expensive or even a long job with practice.

I greatly appreciate the kind words! Many more videos on the way.

My pleasure, thanks for watching!

Thank you Luke! We are getting close to running now. In a few weeks I'll be posting a rebuild of my Tool Grinder- it's an Agathon Style, E. Hofmann, Suisse Made.

@@RocanMotor cool cant wait to see it. I am hoping to get some videos up too some time soon

@@LCalleja I look forward to seeing your videos as well!

Greatly appreciate the kind words!

@@RocanMotor You are very welcome my friend

It's best to check the directions of the epoxy being used and to confirm that you can meet the torque and fastener size suggested by the lift manufacturer. In my experience most epoxies allow for higher torque values than an equivalent sized expanding anchor.

I always suggest following manufacturer suggestions. All of the anchoring epoxies I've used specify using studs of the correct size and sizing+cleaning the bore correctly before applying epoxy. Generally this results in a pullout strength that greatly exceeds that of an expanding anchor. Many expanding anchor instructions caution against using epoxy with them, though I have heard of people combining both. Imho either expanding anchors or epoxy are viable options so long as the concrete is prepared correctly and manufacturer instructions are followed. This lift has been installed a few years now and I've experienced zero torque loss in any stud- I can't say the same of expanding anchors I've used in the past. When I did public works we exclusively used anchoring epoxy- far too many failures with expanding anchors over time.

Thank you!! I'm wrapping up the video showing the board repair and HL-1 Startup- it may be a few weeks, but do stay tuned! Lots of big changes coming to the channel- moving forward Rocan Motor Company will be my full-time job, so plenty of content to come!

I appreciate it! Comments like this really help to keep me motivated!

I'm my testing of the VF-2SS so far I'd agree. Regarding the capacitor start, the current draw for a motor this size was in the 300 A range, supposedly, which I hadn't confirmed through any math of my own. That's for a brief moment of course, and likely okay, but I had the pony handy so this seemed simpler at the time.

Thank you! I tallied it all up and the final cost was roughly $800 for everything. That includes just about everything except for the 4/0 quadruplex cable to connect it all. The motors were free as was the steel for the frame. 40hp rotary phase converters generally are $5000 or more, so overall I'm happy. A smaller unit can be built for much cheaper- the pulleys required for the large motor for example are roughly 25% of the cost, and the large contactor was another 25%.

I considered an electromagnetic clutch, similar to an AC compressor in a car, but ultimately opted to keep it simple and left the belt turning whenever the system runs. The losses are negligible.

​@@RocanMotor0:42

With remarkable force! Split collets are really great.

Thank you for the kind words!

I'll have to check! I appreciate the comment, I was looking for a second port/ for the grease to come out but didn't see one. Didn't cross my mind to look underneath. Thank you!

Thank you! The lathe is up and running and we are working on the video showing the drive repair. Very exciting times for us!

Thank you Joe!! I say give it a shot with a smaller 3 phase motor. A phase converter this large is a bit daunting (and deadly), but the same principles apply to all 3 phase motors and with some research and planning you could have a working phase converter in a weekend. Also, it doesn't need to be expensive- local ads (marketplace, craigslist, etc) turn up free 3 phase motors and components all the time.

Thank you Luke!

Am avut probleme cu șuruburile de extindere. Nu am avut niciodată probleme cu epoxidul, atunci când este folosit corect. Tradus folosind Google.

@@RocanMotor am aceeași problema.Multumsc

@@George-wh7xs Încercați epoxidul. Urmați cu atenție instrucțiunile și veți fi fericit. Multumesc pentru comentariu!

Almost one for each year its sat!

@@RocanMotor yes understood

Ordering tools... Things are moving quickly!

Thank you!! It's slow going, but we are working hard on the video showing the rotary phase converter that powers this lathe. After that is done, well release a video showing this lathe getting up and running!

3/4"-10tpi Threaded B7 rod, 8in long. Amazon came in the cheapest for B7 at the time. Affiliate link below for your convenience! amzn.to/3IUvdk4

@@RocanMotor Thanks. I'm looking at the Hilti HY-200 Epoxy System. Got a buddy that works for them so the pricing won't be as insane lol.

Thank you! We're working on a full length video showing the construction, balancing, testing and installation of this unit!

What’s the hp of the pony

@@aidenp265 the pony motor is 1-1/2hp running at 220vac, 1ph.

Thank you so much!

Solder joints shouldn't be used in high vibration environments. I agree though, a pigtail with a properly crimped and heat shrunk joint is a more robust solution. With that said, this has presented zero issues so far since I installed it.

@@RocanMotor half the shit in your vehicle is soldered, that's nonsense. Been doing it for over 30 years never a problem.

@@dabooge the various circuit boards absolutely use solder, but solder joints for wiring connections are strongly discouraged. The boards are secured well and are not prone to brittle failure like a wiring connection is. Honestly, I can't think of any oems employing solder joints in the wiring harness. I'm curious if you have seen any oems use solder joints. In my time working as an aerospace and automotive mechanical engineer, crimp joints have always been favored and what is reccomended by SAE and other governing boards. With that said, a soldered joint, when properly supported won't necessarily fail, as your experience has shown.

Just trying new things. I appreciate the feedback! Any song in particular that is problematic, or is it that the music has lyrics?

220v 1 or 3 phase input 220v 3ph output. Link in the description!

@@RocanMotor but this motor is 380v 3 phase?

@@kregerstainer this is a 240/480v 3 phase motor. It is wired for 240v on my machine.

@@RocanMotor thanks for replying,,

@@kregerstainer my pleasure!

Coarse thread 👍

Thank you!! It's an extremely busy month for us- walls are getting closed up this week, and we've got a really large, 8000lb surprise coming very soon!

That's a really nice way of doing it! You also can't beat the solid feeling of the oem directional switch. In the past I had wall mounted all of my vfds and then would have my controls on a mount within easy reach. With this shop I have been trying to make everything easily movable, so I'm trying to machine mount all controls so that I can simply unplug, roll to a new spot and plug it back in. I will be building a new control station for the bridgeport with forward reverse, e stop, speed pot, and some additional controls for an upcoming addition to this mill that's secret at the moment. At the time of recording, I just needed to get the mill running to aid in getting the shop built. Thanks for watching!

Hahahaha, love it. Appreciate the kind words of encouragement! Things should improve rapidly- going all in with my business and the videos soon.

Thank you!

Thank you!! Honestly, it was near the top of my bucket list. Some nights I just sit in awe and feel nothing but gratitude.