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Alan Sykes
Registrace 27. 04. 2010
BMW F650C Scarver 2Spark Plugs Renewal
Replacing spark plugs on a BMW F650CS "Scarver" is not easy - here's how...
zhlédnutí: 40 099
Video
BMW 2valve K-bike RT-to-Naked-Format Conversion
zhlédnutí 28KPřed 11 lety
Removal of the RT fairing components ( 'Tupperware' in BMW-biker-speech ) prior to reverting the bike to un-faired format for weight-saving and cooler riding in hot weather.
BMW K75 Final Drive Splines lube job
zhlédnutí 66KPřed 11 lety
A shortened compilation of several Chris Harris instructional videos on caring for your classic K-bike
What is "external grade silicon"? Can not find any translation. Is it just silicon you use for outside application? Or something special?
Greag video very helpful , Thanks Guys .
Nice Jazz to go with nice video ! Thanks !
This town has a HD BMW combo dealership. On at least two, na more times than that, I have been told clearly that they do NOT want to work on old BMW's. I believe they also try to make that clear by handing down astronomically high bills for any sort of service work. They say their technicians are not trained on the 'old' bikes. A competent BMW MC mechanic could make fists full of money in any metro area.
Deep plug socket! Which size?
Hi,can anyone please help me with a issue? My cs 2002 have reserve light on with full tank ,what is the problem? Thanks
Hi thanks for the video. I've removed my shaft and lubed. Do you have do phase the shaft when reinstalling ?
Great vid
I have 2 F650cs they are hard to work on. The good thing is they never need worked on. Most dependable motorcycle Iv ever owned.
I'm doing the same conversion right now. However, it seems like my headunit cable is to short. With the original bracket for a naked bike it has a hole which is to far down (or the electronic cable coming from under the tank is too short). Did you have this problem aswel? Noticed you didn't saw a piece out of the triple clamp bracket to accomodate with the shorter head unit cable. Did you have the same problem? How did you fix this?
Brilliant 👍 thanks for the info.
Hi Alan love your video, thanks for being so helpful limerick trying to fit the naked rad fairings to my k75. Can you show how to do? Your awesome man thanks 😊
Thank you Alan Sykes. I'm a harley mechanic who has owned a 2005 F650CS for almost 3 years now. I've fell in love with it and put about 7,000 miles on it so far. I wasn't sure where spark plugs were except for a visual on the 1 on right side of cylinder head. Now I see second is directly behind. Thanks for pointing out the two different connectors for inner & outer plugs. BTW love the music and written text in video.
dumbest thing I ever did was sell my K-75 !
man that was one awful pointy spline used in the illustration video.. yuk.
HI jacked chris's video.. fun.,
LOVE THE JAZZ WITH THE HOW-TO...MOST USEFUL WHEN CONSIDERING PURCHASE OF ONE OF THESE THINGS.
I need the cat !
Great Alan!
Ive side storage boxes on my k100 the hinges are broke i could go and fix with drill cable tie hinges diy style but i wanted to take them both off side and rivet new hinges onto the boxes then put back on do u have video of hoe to revove or install them so i can remove them was my father inlaws in great condition for 1985 just the ztorage luggage boxes stay on clipped closed but wgen open them fall down so want to put new hinges on
Great job. Very useful video!
Alan, thanks for the upload. Am in the process of doing a conversion to the fairing on my RT. I had some questions regarding some of aftermarket components that appear here on yours. Would greatly appreciate your reply! Cheers thelonius85@gmail.com
Who designed this! Perhaps the plugs are "lifetime" parts.
Thanks so much for this. I had to replace the headlight on the K75 RT, and was very much helped by the first 7 minutes of this video!!
No chance to loosen the 4 bolts of the final drive ( extreme tight) ....any tip before I ruin the inside of the bolts apart from good toolbits and never get it loose again?
Pb blaster.
Is there other kinds of lube I can use from the local auto parts store
Just came in to say "Thank you sir!"...
Stolen video!!!!!¿???Did you have Chris Harris permission to copy and use his videos and make it your own?
Short answer - YES
thanks for the video. do you have a list of all the extra parts I will need to purchase in order to make the naked bike complete?
Hi Hans, Wow - quite a list of parts needed, as shown in last few seconds of the video. Depends where you are located as to the availability of used parts because BMW Motorrad no longer supports the early K-bikes. My usual source is Motorworks in the West Riding of Yorkshire, who provide an international shipping service, but there's many second-hand parts available from ebay Germany, where most of the K's were sold. The main difficulty is the separate chrome headlamp to replace the fairing headlamp in the RT. There are Chinese copies but they don't look right. Then the shorter handlebar, the bar-mounted round rear-view mirrors, the front and side fairings for the radiator, plus - a bracket needs to be fabricated to carry the brake fluid line down from the forks to the front wheel, because the support for that is built into the top fairing on the RT. I made mine from inox bent to the shape you see in the close-up with the big yellow arrow. Take another look at the last 30 seconds of the video, where all the required parts for a 'naked' conversion are laid out near the cat at the side of my swimming pool. Buena suerte ! ALAN
Alan Sykes thank you so much for the speedy reply. It helps a lot. I've watched the last few moments of the video 30x by now. Im thinking of replacing my handle bars to c-bars. I plan on touring with this bike and wanna to be comfy. also very helpful info concerning the brake line support, thanks
Thank you, saved me many hours of frustration.
Glad to be of help, Duncan. Thankfully, many parts for the original K75C naked, here in Europe called the "Metropolitan, are still available to allow RT owners to slim down their bikes. Regards, ALAN in s.e. Spain
just done my shaft inspection.. tip top condition.. great idea for the silicon plug, will do ;)
Did you make that radiator bracket or was it purchased?
I see you pull the drive shaft out at the 5:17 mark in the video with the housing still in place, however, when you reinstall the drive shaft, the housing has been removed. Is this necessary or can the driveshaft be reinstalled with the housing in place?
Well spotted, sir. The shaft can indeed be re-clipped back into the gearbox output spline with the shaft housing in place; it's just a bit of a PITA getting it to locate "blind" - a few judicious taps with a rawhide mallet on the end of the shaft might be necessary - it took me five minutes before I was satisfied that the shaft had relocated correctly. Good luck - ALAN
Not to forget to thank the NOW-RETIRED Chris Harris for all his expert help, knowledge and expertise on wrenching these BMW bikes. The man is a gem and it's such a pity that he's now apparently decided that enough is enough. Encountering and rectifying the same faults time after time after time...
Thanks Alan, I will be performing this maintenance on my 1987 K75s this weekend.
Ah, the famous K75S - what a lovely vehicle....you lucky man !
I have to say that after 30 years, it is still a pleasure to ride all day long day after day.
Great video. Staburag makes many lubricants, can you give us the product number of the lube?
Yes, the Staburags special grease is available in a small-ish toothpaste-tube style package for about 20 euro or 25 bucks. The distributor is Klüber Lubricants based in the Fatherland but with concessionaires in many countries. The code for this clinging, supremely waterproof, specialised and very effective grease - only a pea-sized blob is required for this job, so the tube goes a long way - is: NBU-30 PTM. Watch one of Chris H's later You Tube videos, filmed in Feb 2015 following his serious health scare, where he shows us the laborious job of cleaning out the gummy deposit that clogs up the spline valleys. Spool on to 4-and-a-half mins into this video to see the amount of grease required, even tho' he's working on a different model of Beemer, the gearbox input splined shaft of a boxer tranny. Happy wrenching. AL in s.e. Spain
Thanks for the video. My CS is running poorly with surging and stalling. Could I have disconnected the wires beneath the airbox when I changed the air filter? I guess I should take it apart again and check. Any advice? Thanks John
The 2-spark was introduced in 2003/4 to solve that very problem, John. So you must have disturbed something. Also, spark plugs don't seem to last very long on this model. Replace with Iridium. Best way is to remove everything that sits on top of the cylinder to check that nothing is awry. Gives you the chance to clean out the remants of crankcase fume oil from the airbox, but be careful disconnecting that pesky plug deep in its hole !
Thanks
@@alansykes39 IT SEEMS THESE THINGS RESPOND WELL TO RE-BOOTING THE COMPUTER...
nice!
Well done....
This is a great video! For future reference, it's always good to start a shot wide for context. That way people can see the area they're going to be working in as it relates to other areas on the bike. As I watch, not being an expert but a recent owner, I've no idea where this stuff is or from what angle I'm viewing it. Simple enough for me to sort it, but I thought I'd pass this along. If the video weren't helpful, I wouldn't bother.
helpful
Glad to be of help - these well-built vehicles are getting ever rarer. If only BMW had kept the wonderful 3-cyl motor and included the magnificent Telelever front suspension !
Thanks Monte - I'm glad you liked the video from Poland which I re-cut; but remember that the F650 bikes produced in Berlin BEFORE year 2004 were single-spark only, with the consequent 'hunting' problems of ignition. That's why BMW / Rotax introduced the twin-spark models in 2004 with an extra spark-plug as a refinement, to cure the firing roughness problems that so many single-spark riders have to put up with. Regards, AL in s.e. Spain;July 2016.
Thanks heaps! I am embarrassed to say I wasn't even sure where the second plug was and afraid to wreck something trying to take off leads that aren't supposed to come off!
What's the problem with 'typical German over-engineering' ? This bike dates from the era when BMW manufactured top-quality machines exclusively in-house in their massive plant in Berlin-Spandau, bikes that had a well-earned reputation for quality, durability and reliability. They made these machines without outsourcing a myriad of Chinese components as they do nowadays:- wet clutch and other transmission items, signalling, starter, alternator, cabling, and many other crucial bits. They were extremely well-made and well-put-together vehicles - evidence the fact that almost every single authorities road-patrol force in Europe and in many countries further afield bought thousands of them and used them exclusively year-in, year-out.
Typical German over engineering.
What do you mean? Positive?
This vid, was way to fast.
I tried to slow down the guy's speeded up sequences, but the result was unacceptably jerky. Sorry.
It looks line. I'm Impressid! cent parsimonious What do you think2..
+Nathaniel Collins:- Alan replies:- Sorry Nathaniel - I'm not quite with you - what do you mean by parsimonious ? Not using a deep socket or torque wrench ? Does it matter, so long as the plug(s) is /are not over-tight...the important thing is to use Iridium replacements, not the basic NGK. These Scarver bikes are now VERY RARE !
I have just removed the final drive on a friends 93 K75 that the clutch was overhauled/replaced by an independent mechanic less than 1000 mi ago. However the bike had been sitting for several years. Initially after putting the bike back on the road everything was fine however shortly the bike made the dreaded noise of the clutch splines not mating. Is there a way to check for lubrication without removing/disassembling the transmission?
No is the short answer. Sorry....
If its making noises it's too late
I lubed both ends of the drive shaft about 11K miles ago. It's new tire time, so I will service the spline again. My question: is it necessary to lube both ends of the drives shaft again, or only the rear end? Do the splines on the front suffer from lubrication creep as happens on the rear? I raise this question because I had a lot of trouble withdrawing the drive shaft from the swing arm tube in the past and would rather not hassle that again if its not really necessary to lube the front splines.
The traditional dry clutch design on Beemer bikes, they only recently bought in cheapo wet multi-pack clutches from China on the new vastly-redesigned boxer motor, is such that virtually no lube-creep occurs. But as you've prolly taken the trouble to snick out the drive-shaft from its clip on the inboard end, you might as well put a smear of Staburags NBU-30 PTM on that inboard end as well as on the FD helical end, mightn't you ??
Any particular brand of silicon used in plugging the drive shaft?? I was contemplating this and was thinking the hole might be big enough to take a penny,glued into place but the silicone sounds simpler.What can I use if I cant get Staburags in UK??
Hi Ralph - thanks for watching Chris Harris's K75/K100 service videos which I edited down into a single spline-lube project video. As it says in the caption at the relevant point in the video, you need high-quality silicone sealant that sets hard in order to plug up the tube inside the hollow drive shaft, thus preventing lubrication silicone from seeping or migrating back up the tube away from the final drive splines. The kind of sealant silicone that builders use and which resists movement, water, grease etc. You don't want bits of stuff thrashing about inside the drive shaft tube when the shaft is spinning at 100s of rpm ! ! This silicone is not a lubricant - it's a hard sealant with super-strong adhesive power. And you CAN get Starburags in the UK and the rest of the EU. Just Google it. Happy greasing ! Incidentally, Chris remains America's leading K-bike service expert, now in his new slimline form as "Team Monkey Productions LLC", having lost several kilos in weight - good for him ! ALAN in s.e. Spain - 1995 K75RT in classic black metallic.
I,ll have a chat to a few builders I know.Thats why I was thinking of gluing a penny in there might be a good idea.anything that blocks the hole running up the shaft.mind you,have you checked out the work by Bruno,Chris,s buddy? wish we had a Bruno here in UK.
Hi Alan, Would it be possible to give an example of the silicone sealant? thanks
The silicone sealat must be a heavy-duty waterproof type as used in the construction industry. Your country is the headquarters of two major adhesive / sealant products manufacturers. So I'm sure you can source such a sealant that will permanently prevent lube-crep back up the hollow shaft tube. Ride safe. ALAN
Terrific video. I am going to do it. As mechanic's go-on a scale from 1 to 10, I am a solid 4 .6 . Without your teaching, my bike and life would be in grave jeopardy. then again whats new, I will send an up date. The english guy was also an improvement . thanks ollie