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Is it tube driver and recovery? or opamp? A weak recovery tube is a common problem. Check wire on the tank going to rca jack and the little connectors going to the coil on each end. Check the RCA cable going to the amp. If all that is good, you need to figure out if the driver or recovery stage has the weak signal. If you give the tank a wiggle with the reverb turned up, there should be a fairly large splash of sound. If it's low then likely the recovery stage has a problem.

@@amp_mechanic the wires and springs in the tank look good. I did the ohm check from the end of the rca cables. The amp has two EL84 output tubes plus one 12ax7 so I'm thinking there is an opamp inside the chassis. If I take the tank out of the amp and move the springs with my hand, the reverb sounds strong. But with the guitar plugged in and the reverb on 10 it is barely audible.

Everlast Powerplasma 82i

The post processor is available on the ArcDroid downloads page. There's plenty of info out there on how to install it. Then you'll have it in your list.

Great! Glad it helped.

I own this amp and it's a freaking powerhouse. I have had mine for 2 years and the only issue I've had are with the blue led lights on the clean channel. This is just one video on repair. Go try out the amp and see for yourself. It's great for a lunchbox.

I would not let that stop you from getting this amp. You're missing out if you do. Imo

Good to know.

This one did need the shielded otherwise I wouldn't have used it. Some are worse than others. Good you got it fixed for him.

@@amp_mechanic did you try it with the cover back on the amp before adding the shielded wiring?

There may be a ground off or a bleed resistor that has failed. There are so many things that can fail on these amps it's hard to say without going through and diagnosing it. The standby disconnects the high voltage so you need to figure out where or what is bleeding through or not drain the circuit down. Go through the schematic and check all supply nodes.

I think it's long press on the file on the Droid. Or once you get it on your computer use something like G code ripper.

oh,well, pardon me....lmao. 😂

I used this one amzn.to/3WFVCdD

This is the one i buy too

This is the one i buy too

This is the one i buy too

This is the exact one I got amzn.to/3ygTK0C 15.7x11.8X 7.1inch (400x300x180 mm)

thanks a lot :)

Correct. I think so many companies do it this way because of ease. They also don't want to encourage people to probe the high voltage. And it also gives a bit of buffer for those that always want their bias hotter. My thing is that, either way you do it, you do need the plate voltage to calculate the bias and get repeatable results. Biasing to 65mv means nothing unless you use it to calculate the bias. It will usually be a safe number with these amps but the feel and sound can be wildly different. And on the resistor value, I would say that the value being off isn't that big a deal since you can account for it in your calculation. Or at the very least, that will be a static value you will always be measuring through. But in terms of just going by the 60mv thing, you are correct.

Find a kubota dealer near you or look online for a replacement key. I'm not sure if the B series key is universal but I suspect it might be. Short of that, a locksmith should be able to make a mold from the cylinder of the ignition switch to have a new key cut. Or replace the whole ignition switch. The new one will have keys.

Likely they are just worn. If they have a lot of hours, time for a new set.

@@amp_mechanic that’s what I’m hoping. Ordered a new set a little while ago. Thanks you

Go around to any of your local guitar shops, at least one of them will need to have someone they use that can replace a switch. Actually any electronics place for tv's stereos, cell phone repairs would be able to do it. Just a matter of finding someone who will. Good luck.

@@amp_mechanic thanks for the help I appreciate it!

Awesome Peter! Glad it was a help.

Hi James, yes I just pulled the old shock mount out and put the new one in. This one was doing a similar thing, capsule would flop all over. I think the material they used just got super flexible over time and became gummy so it provides no support. But this one hadn't been doing it long because there were no marks at all. If it sounds fine, and there are no blemishes on the capsule film, it's likely fine. The swap is pretty straight forward if you take your time and are careful. Good luck!

@@amp_mechanic Oh ok, it was flopping too huh. Good to know then. Do you think I need to worry about the technical side, like the resistance/continuity stuff? So basically the shockmount shouldn't have any resistance, and the one you had that didn't work only had it, because it was defective right? So, like if I got a new one, I could just test it before I put it on, and it should just read zero resistance/continuity is that it? Is there a way to test for it after it's installed as well? Also, you know that little terminal where the wires are soldered. Do the wires need to be soldered/unsoldered from the terminals, or is it just the capsule side you need to detach the wire, assuming the wire is fine I mean. Also, for the wire, do you know if the new mounts include any spare wires? Thanks for your help dude, means a lot to me! I was thinking also, maybe it would be a good idea to buy a spare shockmount just incase down the road Lawson closes it's doors or something. I mean, I'm hopeful they will keep going, but I was thinking last night, how possible would it be to mod this Mic, or find a capsule mount, if you didn't have the Lawson one? I'm sure it's possible, but not sure what you'd do lol. Were you saying the new one seemed a little shorter also? That sounds like it could help with that flexing/flopping thing over time.

@@jamescassidy4045 I wouldn't worry about it. It was just a one off manufacturing defect. Just install it. I don't believe you need to solder. The wires are soldered on tabs that connect to the capsule with a screw. Remove screw from old, install on new. (I could be wrong about that since it's been a while and I've done other mics since) It's probably not a bad idea to have a spare. Although worst case, you could get another mount and adapt it to work. And yes, new shockmount is shorter. The old ones were too long, the capsule sat very high. Good luck with it!

@@amp_mechanicHey! Thanks, and sorry for the long messages, I think I just got a bit anxious, and overthink stuff sometimes hah. Anyway, the new mount came today, so I’ll hopefully get up to it this weekend. You know, it’s funny, looking at it before, I kinda had that same thought that I wouldn’t need to solder/desolder, or snip any wires, but the instructions actually say that I’ll need to desolder or snip, so we’ll see lol. I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed even reading the instructions right now, as it looks like a lot, but they are very detailed, and once I have it in front of me I’m sure I’ll be fine hah. Hey, can I ask, do you have any recommendations on what to order as far as high quality capsule wire goes? Like type, gauge, and maybe even brand(s)? Basically, I’m just now thinking, it might be good to have some on hand just in case I mess something up, and also, I may even just replace all of them, only because I’m not positive, but when I was testing it at one point, I thought I might have briefly heard some slight intermittent noise or cutting out, but wasn’t the type of thing that was constant or obv. There was just one or two tiny moments where I thought I heard something, and with the capsule clearly having signs that it, and the wires were obv banging / moving around a shit tonne, it’s quite possible one or more of the wires could be slightly damaged, or on its way, so was just a thought, and something I’d like to have on hand anyway, but I’m still just kinda green when it comes to tech work, and I’ve never ordered wire for mics/capsules before. Could you even go up a gauge, or is there a range, or is it always better to stick to the gauge the mic was built with for certain reasons? Thanks man! James

@@jamescassidy4045 Hi James, I can't remember now if removing a wire or two is required. I think you can just remove the old shock mount if you're careful with it. For wire, it's pretty light gauge used. Probably 26 or so but you may want to reference some mic builder forums. There's nothing wrong with going up a size. Some people like to use higher grade wire. I think as long as you go with a decent brand, not the really cheap stuff off amazon, you'll be fine. The really cheap stuff can be ok but it's the insulation that is bad. And usually it's more very fine strands to make up the wire gauge. I tend toward fewer bigger strands or using solid core when the application permits. At the end of the day, don't overthink it. You'll go crazy and spend a bunch of money with not much or no real difference.

I don't have any better advice than, send an email. If I remember correctly, it took Gayle a few days, maybe a week, to get back to me. Keep trying.

Same situation here. I'm wondering now if I'm going to have to figure out a diy solution for the shockmount. Does anyone know the type of material?

@@breakburrito The material is sorbothane. And Mr. Lawson, WILL finally call you back. He sold me a new replacement and offered to put it in at the factory if I didn't feel confident in doing it myself. It's a small operation and they're rather busy.

@@toddwilson8253 Thanks for the info, and optimism! The sorbothane apparently has a finite lifespan. Maybe there is a better material...

@@toddwilson8253 Update. It's been over two weeks and no response from Lawson to my email or phone call. I moved forward with fabricating a solid internal capsule mount and retrofitted an external shock mount to hold the 251. Sad that it had to come to this. I will be wiring up the capsule this week. Hopefully it works.

No, some Cut60's have a HF issue with the ArcDroid. Not all but some. That is unrelated to THC. The internal divider performance varies by machine, same as most other brands. I'd run the Cut60 in your situation, if you end up with the ArcDroid resetting mid cut, you'll know you have an HF issue. There are tons of people running the Cut60 without issue. THC is still in beta and I suspect it will be forever. They don't even advertise it as a feature anymore. Once you get some experience, email ArcDroid with your serial, they will send an unlock code. There may be some back and forth and trying to convince you to just use autolevel but if you persist, they will send it.

While there can be bias drift and tubes do wear differently, that can sometime be an indication of a problem with the amp. Give it a careful check over. It's not uncommon for one of the protection diodes on the plate to start to leak and cause problems. Not saying that it is, maybe that one tube just wore more. Either way, you'll likely discover that a mismatched set of power tubes can actually sound pretty good.

@@amp_mechanichmm, thanks for your tip regarding the diode, i just can say that it's super reliable and didn't have any problems (since more than 4 years when i changed some filter caps), and even after the hoter biasing now. I think the sound is awesome, so i guess nothing to worry about (: the reason i did check the biasing after all was because i swapped one speaker, so i thought it doesn't hurt to check on that stuff too.

Great!

The Eastwood 60A Versa Cut is a high frequency plasma cutter, it's not recommended for CNC applications. If you do have a CNC compatible cutter, the divider will work with any plasma cutter, just needs to be wired to the + and - outputs.

@@amp_mechanic The plasma cutter is not a versa and it would not work with that machine.

I think it is. I'm not sure what else would have the same capability in this price range.

@@amp_mechanic Carvera?

It would be necessary if you plan to use the THC as I don't believe the Procut 30 has a divider. If you're new to CNC, get used to making cuts before diving into the THC. It is a useful feature but another layer of complication.

I'm not sure they are responsive. I've had the opposite experience. I tried to get a new shockmount but they blew me off. Now I'm trying again this week and so far no response to my phone call. I will try again.

It sounds like they fixed the issue. I had 2 when they originally came out. The hum was bad enough to make my fillings ache.

I got mine march 29 2024...it is totally quiet...so far

Just the standard Mach3Mill one in Fusion360. Vendor is Artsoft. Works with any mill that uses Mach3.

​@@amp_mechanicthanks

I soldered a pair of wires direct to the board. I'm using a single 12V power supply. It's the NVVV

@@amp_mechanic I was wondering about that 12v power supply whenever I watched you video.lol Definitely like this concept a lot more than the mess of bricks. Would happen to have a shot of where you soldered onto the board for those wires. Was looking at the part where show you circuit board mounted but it just looks like a blank space where power input goes

@@kameronmcdougald1442 Sorry, I don't. I just looked this morning and I can't get a clear pic with the wire bundle in the way. I just stripped a long enough section of wire to bridge to both positive and both negative solder points. (I think they are actually connected together on the board anyway.) I think the top is positive but double check by looking at the barrel jack orientation.

This was all done in Fusion 360. Several years ago when I started doing engraving I had a tough time with Fusion as well, I found F-Engrave by Scorch Works. It's free and actually works really well and after using it for a bit, I understood more of the process and was able to program in Fusion successfully. I still use F-Engrave for simple things and for doing inlays as it calculates offsets. Fusion just has more capability for details, reliefs and surface finish.

Thanks Kevbokev, sounds like typical moisture issues. As you likely noticed when replacing that other resistor, there can be a lot of popping while melting the solder. That's contaminants in it, moisture or otherwise. You have to get the goo off anywhere it's gone hard and is over component leads, at the least. Usually there's not a lot of components to replace unless there is significant corrosion. Most of the ones I've done, I end up replacing main power supply caps and the 2.2K power resistors. And re-solder everything.

@@amp_mechanic tha is for the reply. I just got done cleaning off all the black goo, and the crackling is gone. However, now I’ve noticed the sound goes in and out. Almost like different frequencies are missing. If I play a song, the verse vocals are almost gone while the music plays, then when the chorus hits, I hear the vocals very clearly, but the music gets muffled and comes back. I just bought a multipack of capacitors and resistors, so I’ll start replacing any that look corroded, as some resistors do. Caps looks fine, but may end up replacing them anyway. EDIT I was just using a faulty cable. Seems to be working great after cleaning off all the black goo!!

Perfect. It's easy to miss a cable connection. Good job!

My default is usually 1.7mm. From there to 2.5mm usually works well. To come up with that, I looked at what the distance was if I was hand cutting using a standoff guide. So if your torch is different, has a different standoff guide length, I'd use whatever that is and adjust from there.

Thanks my stand off was 105 thousandth 😊

I like it, it's been good so far. If you watch my part 3 video (I think?) I share my thoughts. It's not for everyone and I'd be hesitant to recommend it for someone who is brand new to CNC. Not because it's a bad machine, just the learning curve for CNC can be steep and for most people it's a significant investment. With that said, if you have some CNC experience and can troubleshoot normal CNC operating issues, it's a very capable machine for the price. I can't speak to the long term as I haven't been running it for even a year yet.

There's no trouble with steel, it cuts steel just fine. I wasn't expecting iron and didn't have the appropriate cut parameters or tooling. I thought that first blank was copper. But was only copper plated.

You are making your own CNC Machine? Can it cut steel?

@@jaysaini955 Yes it can. There's a video of me making a bottle opener out of steel. And this CNC is a kit from Shariff DMC. I just swapped out some parts and changed things for my own use.

@@amp_mechanic Oh nice Now, for someone who has 3D printing experience, is this a good first option for CNC?