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Amp Mechanic
Canada
Registrace 26. 09. 2014
Official CZcams channel for Amp Mechanic. Guitar and amp related repairs, review and projects making cool stuff.
Gretsch G6134TG LTD Black Paisley Penguin
Part 2 - I sat down and played the Gretsch G6134TG LTD Penguin in Black Paisley. Just guitar, cable into an amp sim. No pedals. Just using the volume control.
I'm not sure whether to be honored or annoyed. I had to clip out the "Hurts So Good" section because of a copyright claim. I guess my playing was good enough for it to be recognizable. haha. There's still a little bit of the riff in there.
0:30 Neck pickup ~30% Volume
2:48 Bridge pickup Full volume
3:58 Bridge Pickup w/ Tone switch down
4:44 Same settings. Bluesy rock riff
7:06 Both Pickups. Tone Switch center. Volume ~60%
7:33 Some Stray riffs
8:30 Bridge Pickup
9:08 Neck pickup. Bluesy jam (Come when I call - Mayer) type thing
11:22 Neck pickup
11:53 Bridge pickup. Full Volume. (Hurts So Good riff) 30 secs worth of the first and last bit for the copyright clowns.
12:27 Neck pickup. Tone Switch Down. Same volume just playing lightly. Goes into You don't know Me type progression.
If you've found this information useful and would like to contribute, now you can at www.buymeacoffee.com/ampmechanic
I'm not sure whether to be honored or annoyed. I had to clip out the "Hurts So Good" section because of a copyright claim. I guess my playing was good enough for it to be recognizable. haha. There's still a little bit of the riff in there.
0:30 Neck pickup ~30% Volume
2:48 Bridge pickup Full volume
3:58 Bridge Pickup w/ Tone switch down
4:44 Same settings. Bluesy rock riff
7:06 Both Pickups. Tone Switch center. Volume ~60%
7:33 Some Stray riffs
8:30 Bridge Pickup
9:08 Neck pickup. Bluesy jam (Come when I call - Mayer) type thing
11:22 Neck pickup
11:53 Bridge pickup. Full Volume. (Hurts So Good riff) 30 secs worth of the first and last bit for the copyright clowns.
12:27 Neck pickup. Tone Switch Down. Same volume just playing lightly. Goes into You don't know Me type progression.
If you've found this information useful and would like to contribute, now you can at www.buymeacoffee.com/ampmechanic
zhlédnutí: 260
Video
QSC CP8 - Is this a widespread issue or just an amazon problem?
zhlédnutí 307Před 5 měsíci
From March of 2023 - I cover problems with the QSC CP8 on arrival. I've tried 2 of these now from Amazon warehouse deals, both had the same issue. Is this just because Amazon didn't check it or is it a widespread issue common to these? If you've found this information useful and would like to contribute, now you can at www.buymeacoffee.com/ampmechanic
Kubota B2620: No Start. Diagnosing and fixing.
zhlédnutí 555Před 7 měsíci
Kubota B2620 with a no start condition. I walk through what I checked to find the cause. If you've found this information useful and would like to contribute, now you can at www.buymeacoffee.com/ampmechanic
Shariff DMC2: CNC Coins and breaking the DMC2.
zhlédnutí 877Před 7 měsíci
I cover the process of making some challenge coins as a gift. There were several problems in the process, ordering the wrong blanks, breaking the last of my favorite cutters and even breaking the DMC2. But it all worked out in the end. Here is the link to the 60 degree 1/8" V bits I used on the copper and brass. They are ok but not great. If you do an extra finish pass and plan on polishing or ...
New Voltage Divider Lite for Plasma THC and a long detailed cut on the ArcDroid
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 7 měsíci
The new V Div Lite is available on my website: www.ampmechanic.com/voltagedividerlite This divider will work with any THC that needs divided voltage. I can set it up to work as 50:1, 20:1, 16:1. The cut is one of the longest I've done with lots of details in the file. Several tip ups and even a missed fire, it came out really nice in the end. If you've found this information useful and would li...
Shariff DMC2: Test cuts. Aluminum and Steel
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 8 měsíci
Doing some test cuts on the DMC2. The first cuts in aluminum just to dial in some settings and get an idea of the tolerances. Then I moved on to cutting a bottle opener out of mild steel. I made a photo album with some pics and short video of the first cuts photos.app.goo.gl/1JNdAiL9ktRx9To6A If you've found this information useful and would like to contribute, now you can at www.buymeacoffee.c...
Shariff DMC2 Build Part 3: Easy Spindle Tram Method, Bed Surfacing and Final Thoughts.
zhlédnutí 886Před 8 měsíci
Part 3 of building my DMC2 desktop CNC mill. Mostly an overview but I do cover some of the problems I had to solve. I really enjoyed building it and I think it's a great kit if you have some CNC experience and are mechanically inclined. I made a photo album with some pics and short video of the first cuts photos.app.goo.gl/1JNdAiL9ktRx9To6A If you've found this information useful and would like...
Shariff DMC2 Build Part 2: Electrical and First Cut
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 9 měsíci
Part 2 of building my DMC2 desktop CNC mill. Mostly an overview but I do cover some of the problems I had to solve. I really enjoyed building it and I think it's a great kit if you have some CNC experience and are mechanically inclined. I forgot to mention in this video but, for Y stepper driver, switch 5 is Off. With it ON as suggested in the instructions, it was electrically flipped so it was...
Shariff DMC2 Build Part 1: Mechanical Assembly
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed rokem
Part 1 of building my DMC2 desktop CNC mill. Mostly an overview but I do cover some of the problems I had to solve. I really enjoyed building it and I think it's a great kit if you have some CNC experience and are mechanically inclined. I made a photo album with some pics and short video of the first cuts photos.app.goo.gl/1JNdAiL9ktRx9To6A Amazon.ca Links Enclosure for Power Supplies - amzn.to...
My Laser Setup, Another Sign Cut. Dealing with tip ups and failed cuts.
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed rokem
Some more ArcDroid action. My laser alignment mod. And a sign cut that has a bit of a hiccup. If you've found this information useful and would like to contribute, now you can at www.buymeacoffee.com/ampmechanic
DMC2: Pocketing Out Some Aluminum
zhlédnutí 584Před rokem
Doing a test cut in some aluminum. 2mm 3 flute, 15000rpm, 2000mm/min. 2mm depth of cut. No coolant or air.
Arcdroid: Making a splash with some more cuts and layouts.
zhlédnutí 6KPřed rokem
Just a CNC Plasma video of a couple new pieces for customers using the ArcDroid. If you've found this information useful and would like to contribute, now you can at www.buymeacoffee.com/ampmechanic
ArcDroid: Cutting a Nova Scotia themed piece
zhlédnutí 848Před rokem
Just a CNC Plasma video of a piece I cut some time ago. If you've found this information useful and would like to contribute, now you can at www.buymeacoffee.com/ampmechanic
Lawson L47 MPII - Mic repair, Shockmount replacement and capsule care
zhlédnutí 333Před rokem
I had some issues with a shockmount replacement on a Lawson L47 MPII and decided to share it with everyone in case you run onto a similar issue. If you've found this information useful and would like to contribute, now you can at www.buymeacoffee.com/ampmechanic
ArcDroid for Digital Tracing..some Fusion...some CNC Router and a Schecter Hellcat VI Baritone
zhlédnutí 3,1KPřed rokem
A customer needed a new pickguard cut for his Schecter Hellcat VI baritone and new pickups and controls installed. I used the ArcDroid as a tracing arm to digitize the pickguard then cut it out on my CNC router. There's some beginner Fusion 360 explanations in there. Demo of the finished guitar and even some plastic peel ASMR. If you've found this information useful and would like to contribute...
ArcDroid: A Couple Weekend Projects. Mower Blade mod and Wire Spool Bracket
zhlédnutí 2KPřed rokem
ArcDroid: A Couple Weekend Projects. Mower Blade mod and Wire Spool Bracket
ArcDroid: THC in action Hummingbird Feeder/Plant Hanger
zhlédnutí 1,5KPřed rokem
ArcDroid: THC in action Hummingbird Feeder/Plant Hanger
ArcDroid: Plasma Nozzles and selecting the correct one
zhlédnutí 2KPřed rokem
ArcDroid: Plasma Nozzles and selecting the correct one
ArcDroid: Cut Clip - New "On Air" Light Sign
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed rokem
ArcDroid: Cut Clip - New "On Air" Light Sign
ArcDroid: Cut Clip. High speed cut on cold rolled steel.
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed rokem
ArcDroid: Cut Clip. High speed cut on cold rolled steel.
ArcDroid Cut Clip: An example of torch bobbing. What's the solution?
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed rokem
ArcDroid Cut Clip: An example of torch bobbing. What's the solution?
ArcDroid: Making a custom tool and How to Find the Best Cut Settings
zhlédnutí 13KPřed rokem
ArcDroid: Making a custom tool and How to Find the Best Cut Settings
ArcDroid: THC Part 2 - Making Divided Voltage PCB and Updated Info
zhlédnutí 3,5KPřed rokem
ArcDroid: THC Part 2 - Making Divided Voltage PCB and Updated Info
ArcDroid: CNC Plasma THC and Divided voltage
zhlédnutí 8KPřed rokem
ArcDroid: CNC Plasma THC and Divided voltage
Anyone knows where I can get schematic for Rokit 8-2? I have a pair with components damaged so badly they cannot be identified even with good light and 8x magnification.
I just returned one for an exchange to guitar center. It was an open box that worked for 2 months then during normal use made aloud bang sound and died. Weirdest thing ever but guitar center exchanged it no problem for a brand new one. I wonder now if the CP8 line has issues. I have 2 CP12’s and those worked fine at my last gig. So we’ll see. Hope u were able to resolve ur issue.
Great vid! I have the blue RP6 G2s. The logo stopped glowing just after the warranty expired. I purchased the replacement LED light but still no ball. Any ideas mate?
I have a musicman amp with weak reverb. The amp has an accutronics tank, and both transducers measure about 175 ohms. What else could it be?
Is it tube driver and recovery? or opamp? A weak recovery tube is a common problem. Check wire on the tank going to rca jack and the little connectors going to the coil on each end. Check the RCA cable going to the amp. If all that is good, you need to figure out if the driver or recovery stage has the weak signal. If you give the tank a wiggle with the reverb turned up, there should be a fairly large splash of sound. If it's low then likely the recovery stage has a problem.
@@amp_mechanic the wires and springs in the tank look good. I did the ohm check from the end of the rca cables. The amp has two EL84 output tubes plus one 12ax7 so I'm thinking there is an opamp inside the chassis. If I take the tank out of the amp and move the springs with my hand, the reverb sounds strong. But with the guitar plugged in and the reverb on 10 it is barely audible.
This was a surprise and nice to see someone working on a Bose ! and so yes I have a question ?. Bose are not easy to get hold of and seem to hide any people to actually talk to ( it's all drop down boxes crap ) so dare I ask where would you get a complete board of which I think there are two as my Bose L1 8 like to switch off when it feels like it and might run for an hour or maybe five minutes and Bose checked it said ( nothing wrong ? ) so just in case it's viable it makes sense to change both boards or whichever controls the overload sensor ( which is what a layman would assume is the dodgy part ) . I have seen lots of complaints from Bose users with this problem and I love my Bose BUT ! it's serous problem in the middle of a gig ! . Thanks for the Vid it's clear calm and concise soooo rare these days . Regards Kenny. ps Looks like you be the next big thing for Bose with your own Bose repair shop judging by the comments .
Hello. Can you fix my T1 tonematch mixer? Its operating on it's own and I can't control it. Please help. Thanks!
Love the video. Can you please tell me what plasma set up that you are using with the arcdroi. The model number would be great . Thanks
Everlast Powerplasma 82i
Does Fusion 360 recognize the Arcdroid as a viable machine? I could not find it in its library. What are you selecting as a machine?
The post processor is available on the ArcDroid downloads page. There's plenty of info out there on how to install it. Then you'll have it in your list.
I just bought one of these head , came across a newer at a great deal but of course mine had a terrible hum through effx loop , I took it to a amp tech and hope he can fix but my question is , why in the world does a company like PRS ,who does awesome quality control with their guitars , why they don't correct this issue especially for such a popular high gain amp , it don't make any sense , thanks for great info
Hey, appreciate this excellent video. Any thoughts on bass and lower tower no sound. Get a ticking sound in lower speakers. All of the power supply boards have a dark coating on D501.
I've been watching your vids for a few weeks as I research for purchasing an Arcdroid... which I just ordered yesterday (fingers crossed it was the right choice). Detailed/in-depth info is scattered thin and far. I prefer doing my legwork over trial and error (=$), and I've found more good info here than I have in most other places combined. I am forever grateful sir, thank you!
Great! Glad it helped.
Wow I glad I came across your video! Was considering buying this amp but guess I'll stay away now.
I own this amp and it's a freaking powerhouse. I have had mine for 2 years and the only issue I've had are with the blue led lights on the clean channel. This is just one video on repair. Go try out the amp and see for yourself. It's great for a lunchbox.
I would not let that stop you from getting this amp. You're missing out if you do. Imo
I got the new version with the 5881 tubes and the noise seems to be fixed now
Good to know.
I just fixed this issue on a friend’s amp. The FX loop hum issue is mainly the design flaw of the ground loop created by the black and red ground wires connected through the circuit boards at both ends of the path to and from the effects loop. Once you remove one of those ground wires (I removed the red one to keep black as ground) the problem is solved. Twisting and cleaning up the heater wire routing should be done as well to further quiet things down and keep those AC wires away from the effects loop signal wires. The shielded leads are unnecessary. Just remove the extra ground wire and cleanup the heater wires and problem solved.
This one did need the shielded otherwise I wouldn't have used it. Some are worse than others. Good you got it fixed for him.
@@amp_mechanic did you try it with the cover back on the amp before adding the shielded wiring?
I know this is an old video but i figured its worth a shot to ask. I have this same amp and i was playing today, and it sounded like i was getting a connection issue in the cables before the amp went silent. I turned it off and unplugged/replugged the cables to the input and loop and made sure they were all the way in. I fired up the amp and eveything sounded fine, volume and bass are normal. I switch standby on before switching off power and its hissing loud through the speaker. It plays fine with no unwanted noise until you switch it to standby. If you turn power on with standby switched on, there is no hissing. Only hisses after playing then going to standby. Any idea what that is? I actually recently bought the amp from an old friend of the family who does repairs but he is currently on vacation and i dont wanna bug him until he gets back.
There may be a ground off or a bleed resistor that has failed. There are so many things that can fail on these amps it's hard to say without going through and diagnosing it. The standby disconnects the high voltage so you need to figure out where or what is bleeding through or not drain the circuit down. Go through the schematic and check all supply nodes.
How you you Get the DXF file from the ArcDroid? I can only get a code from my trace
I think it's long press on the file on the Droid. Or once you get it on your computer use something like G code ripper.
Thanks
Those Chinese children were soldering the best they can! How well could you solder when you were 6?
oh,well, pardon me....lmao. 😂
what kind of probe did you use. I am also thinking of using another model than the one provided
I used this one amzn.to/3WFVCdD
This is the one i buy too
This is the one i buy too
This is the one i buy too
what size does your control box have? I would like to order one
This is the exact one I got amzn.to/3ygTK0C 15.7x11.8X 7.1inch (400x300x180 mm)
thanks a lot :)
Unfortunately using the on-boards cathode resistor to set bias can be misleading for the following reasons; Firstly you can't rely on the 1ohm resistor being the correct value. Secondly what your actually measuring across this 1 ohm resistor is anode current plus screen current. The screen current can account for around 5mA of the total current giving you a false reading. Measuring the DC resistance of each primary ( as the author suggests) will give you a far more accurate reading as your only reading anode current at this point.
Correct. I think so many companies do it this way because of ease. They also don't want to encourage people to probe the high voltage. And it also gives a bit of buffer for those that always want their bias hotter. My thing is that, either way you do it, you do need the plate voltage to calculate the bias and get repeatable results. Biasing to 65mv means nothing unless you use it to calculate the bias. It will usually be a safe number with these amps but the feel and sound can be wildly different. And on the resistor value, I would say that the value being off isn't that big a deal since you can account for it in your calculation. Or at the very least, that will be a static value you will always be measuring through. But in terms of just going by the 60mv thing, you are correct.
Where can I get a replacement B2620 starter key?
Find a kubota dealer near you or look online for a replacement key. I'm not sure if the B series key is universal but I suspect it might be. Short of that, a locksmith should be able to make a mold from the cylinder of the ignition switch to have a new key cut. Or replace the whole ignition switch. The new one will have keys.
Mine only went up to 54 mV all the way up on the bias is that indicating a problem with the tubes?
Likely they are just worn. If they have a lot of hours, time for a new set.
@@amp_mechanic that’s what I’m hoping. Ordered a new set a little while ago. Thanks you
My impedance switch broke off the terror bass 500 original model. Struggling to find anyone in the uk to fix it so far!
Go around to any of your local guitar shops, at least one of them will need to have someone they use that can replace a switch. Actually any electronics place for tv's stereos, cell phone repairs would be able to do it. Just a matter of finding someone who will. Good luck.
@@amp_mechanic thanks for the help I appreciate it!
This was a great help. I got a cheap 700RBii from an online auction but it was almost without sound. The pots were super scratchy but Deoxit did the trick. The pots are almost totally sealed but you can sneak Deoxit in through a tiny slot in the side. Then I reset the bias like you showed. It was a great confidence boost watching how you worked on it. My amp seems to be perfect now - woohoo. Thanks so much!
Awesome Peter! Glad it was a help.
Hey bro! Just curious is if I could ask you something. Sorry it’s a bit of a long message, but I’m just kind of in a crappy situation, and just looking for some insight/guidance. So, just curious before I get into my issue, did you actually replace a shockmount, and like transfer the capsule to a new shockmount? Just asking because I’m wondering how straight forward it is? Reason I’m asking is, I just got my Lawson, picked it up from the guy, and when I got it home, and took the mic out to show my buddy, I heard something banging around, and thought it was maybe the head basket slightly loose at first, but believe it or not, the capsule was actually flopping around front to back, and side to side with any slight tilt, but when the Mic is standing straight up, the capsule actually manages to sit basically straight. I thought maybe also, the mount, where it screws in was loose, but I opened it up, and what is actually happening is that rubber piece is actually flexing, or at least that’s the point where it’s bending, and the capsule basically droops over, and even hits the inside of the head basket. You can even see on the outside edges of the capsule where it’s been hitting, for probably quite some time, because there’s tiny little scores/dents, but I’m hoping that it’s not something that’s affected the capsule in a negative way. The diagphrahms look good other than being pretty dusty, and the Mic works, and seems to sound okay! Anyway, I’m thinking of trying to send it to Gene, because I don’t think it would be a bad idea to at least give the mic/capsule a once over, aside from the shock mount replacement, and maybe a capsule cleaning if he does that. I guess just after awhile maybe the rubber sort of got old, or soft or something, unless it’s actually broken, or cracked inside where the rubber is, but I don’t know how to tell. Do you know what’s sort of inside the rubber piece, like is it just a solid stem, or is there like space in the middle, because i feel like if it was a solid piece going all the way, I don’t get how it would flex like that so easily ya know? Like you can def see the rubber flexing when the capsule droops over, but ya I dunno hah. If you don’t know that’s fine. Im trying to get ahold of Gene. Just kind of a bummer that I got this surprise, and it was extremely evident as soon as I picked up the mic. And nothing was shipped. I carried it straight home from his studio, and babied it the whole way. Anyway, just wanted to get your opinion, or see if you had any thoughts. Cheers bro!
Hi James, yes I just pulled the old shock mount out and put the new one in. This one was doing a similar thing, capsule would flop all over. I think the material they used just got super flexible over time and became gummy so it provides no support. But this one hadn't been doing it long because there were no marks at all. If it sounds fine, and there are no blemishes on the capsule film, it's likely fine. The swap is pretty straight forward if you take your time and are careful. Good luck!
@@amp_mechanic Oh ok, it was flopping too huh. Good to know then. Do you think I need to worry about the technical side, like the resistance/continuity stuff? So basically the shockmount shouldn't have any resistance, and the one you had that didn't work only had it, because it was defective right? So, like if I got a new one, I could just test it before I put it on, and it should just read zero resistance/continuity is that it? Is there a way to test for it after it's installed as well? Also, you know that little terminal where the wires are soldered. Do the wires need to be soldered/unsoldered from the terminals, or is it just the capsule side you need to detach the wire, assuming the wire is fine I mean. Also, for the wire, do you know if the new mounts include any spare wires? Thanks for your help dude, means a lot to me! I was thinking also, maybe it would be a good idea to buy a spare shockmount just incase down the road Lawson closes it's doors or something. I mean, I'm hopeful they will keep going, but I was thinking last night, how possible would it be to mod this Mic, or find a capsule mount, if you didn't have the Lawson one? I'm sure it's possible, but not sure what you'd do lol. Were you saying the new one seemed a little shorter also? That sounds like it could help with that flexing/flopping thing over time.
@@jamescassidy4045 I wouldn't worry about it. It was just a one off manufacturing defect. Just install it. I don't believe you need to solder. The wires are soldered on tabs that connect to the capsule with a screw. Remove screw from old, install on new. (I could be wrong about that since it's been a while and I've done other mics since) It's probably not a bad idea to have a spare. Although worst case, you could get another mount and adapt it to work. And yes, new shockmount is shorter. The old ones were too long, the capsule sat very high. Good luck with it!
@@amp_mechanicHey! Thanks, and sorry for the long messages, I think I just got a bit anxious, and overthink stuff sometimes hah. Anyway, the new mount came today, so I’ll hopefully get up to it this weekend. You know, it’s funny, looking at it before, I kinda had that same thought that I wouldn’t need to solder/desolder, or snip any wires, but the instructions actually say that I’ll need to desolder or snip, so we’ll see lol. I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed even reading the instructions right now, as it looks like a lot, but they are very detailed, and once I have it in front of me I’m sure I’ll be fine hah. Hey, can I ask, do you have any recommendations on what to order as far as high quality capsule wire goes? Like type, gauge, and maybe even brand(s)? Basically, I’m just now thinking, it might be good to have some on hand just in case I mess something up, and also, I may even just replace all of them, only because I’m not positive, but when I was testing it at one point, I thought I might have briefly heard some slight intermittent noise or cutting out, but wasn’t the type of thing that was constant or obv. There was just one or two tiny moments where I thought I heard something, and with the capsule clearly having signs that it, and the wires were obv banging / moving around a shit tonne, it’s quite possible one or more of the wires could be slightly damaged, or on its way, so was just a thought, and something I’d like to have on hand anyway, but I’m still just kinda green when it comes to tech work, and I’ve never ordered wire for mics/capsules before. Could you even go up a gauge, or is there a range, or is it always better to stick to the gauge the mic was built with for certain reasons? Thanks man! James
@@jamescassidy4045 Hi James, I can't remember now if removing a wire or two is required. I think you can just remove the old shock mount if you're careful with it. For wire, it's pretty light gauge used. Probably 26 or so but you may want to reference some mic builder forums. There's nothing wrong with going up a size. Some people like to use higher grade wire. I think as long as you go with a decent brand, not the really cheap stuff off amazon, you'll be fine. The really cheap stuff can be ok but it's the insulation that is bad. And usually it's more very fine strands to make up the wire gauge. I tend toward fewer bigger strands or using solid core when the application permits. At the end of the day, don't overthink it. You'll go crazy and spend a bunch of money with not much or no real difference.
Hey there. I am curious about how you acquired the replacement capsule mount. I have an L47 with same exact issue and have tried every way I can to get a hold of Lawson Mics but cannot get a reply to save my life. Any suggestions? I'm sorry to bother you with this, I'm just shooting in the dark, at this point. Thank you. Todd
I don't have any better advice than, send an email. If I remember correctly, it took Gayle a few days, maybe a week, to get back to me. Keep trying.
Same situation here. I'm wondering now if I'm going to have to figure out a diy solution for the shockmount. Does anyone know the type of material?
@@breakburrito The material is sorbothane. And Mr. Lawson, WILL finally call you back. He sold me a new replacement and offered to put it in at the factory if I didn't feel confident in doing it myself. It's a small operation and they're rather busy.
@@toddwilson8253 Thanks for the info, and optimism! The sorbothane apparently has a finite lifespan. Maybe there is a better material...
@@toddwilson8253 Update. It's been over two weeks and no response from Lawson to my email or phone call. I moved forward with fabricating a solid internal capsule mount and retrofitted an external shock mount to hold the 251. Sad that it had to come to this. I will be wiring up the capsule this week. Hopefully it works.
So the voltage divider issue with the prime weld cut 60 is the reason its not on the recommendation list for arc droid? Im planning on maybe getting the arc droid but dont want to replace my cut 60. Also seen where you mention something about thc unlock code from arc droid.. is that something to be concerned about?
No, some Cut60's have a HF issue with the ArcDroid. Not all but some. That is unrelated to THC. The internal divider performance varies by machine, same as most other brands. I'd run the Cut60 in your situation, if you end up with the ArcDroid resetting mid cut, you'll know you have an HF issue. There are tons of people running the Cut60 without issue. THC is still in beta and I suspect it will be forever. They don't even advertise it as a feature anymore. Once you get some experience, email ArcDroid with your serial, they will send an unlock code. There may be some back and forth and trying to convince you to just use autolevel but if you persist, they will send it.
Where do we find a repair person? I am in Dallas.
Nice, did the same thing on my Deville, i also noticed that my TAD 6L6s (some years old) are about 10mA apart from each other, that's a little bit much to call them still matched, (well, that's not the fault of the amp), so one was running very cold (~35%) before setting the biaspoint to about 75mV
While there can be bias drift and tubes do wear differently, that can sometime be an indication of a problem with the amp. Give it a careful check over. It's not uncommon for one of the protection diodes on the plate to start to leak and cause problems. Not saying that it is, maybe that one tube just wore more. Either way, you'll likely discover that a mismatched set of power tubes can actually sound pretty good.
@@amp_mechanichmm, thanks for your tip regarding the diode, i just can say that it's super reliable and didn't have any problems (since more than 4 years when i changed some filter caps), and even after the hoter biasing now. I think the sound is awesome, so i guess nothing to worry about (: the reason i did check the biasing after all was because i swapped one speaker, so i thought it doesn't hurt to check on that stuff too.
I got my amp on friday march the 29th...it is 5881....absolutely dead quiet...i am using the fx loop....not using the second channel tho
Great!
Nice....👍
Clever logo!
Be nice if we could actually see what was on that tablet or what ever it is. Just a piece of paper would be better.
I guess buy one of your voltage divider I want to install it on a 60amp Eastwood plasma cutter would it work thanks
The Eastwood 60A Versa Cut is a high frequency plasma cutter, it's not recommended for CNC applications. If you do have a CNC compatible cutter, the divider will work with any plasma cutter, just needs to be wired to the + and - outputs.
@@amp_mechanic The plasma cutter is not a versa and it would not work with that machine.
thanks for the videos. Other than this issue - how do you like this CNC? Worth the price from your perspective?
I think it is. I'm not sure what else would have the same capability in this price range.
@@amp_mechanic Carvera?
My 2nd channel is cutting out. When I turn up the volume it starts crackling noises and doesn't get very loud. It doesn't completely cut out just the volume. Do you have any suggestions?
I’m new to plasma CNC, currently have a PROCUT 30A Plasma Cutter (exact model Andrew demos wiring the trigger in his CZcams video) and an ArcDroid on order. Would your device help with my setup? Thanks
It would be necessary if you plan to use the THC as I don't believe the Procut 30 has a divider. If you're new to CNC, get used to making cuts before diving into the THC. It is a useful feature but another layer of complication.
Please stop saying, "Umm."
Thank you for recording and posting this video, looking at getting a Lawson and it is nice to know they are responsive 👍
I'm not sure they are responsive. I've had the opposite experience. I tried to get a new shockmount but they blew me off. Now I'm trying again this week and so far no response to my phone call. I will try again.
I received mine last week, February 2024, and it has no noise issues whatsoever. I also do not understand why the effects loop should add to the noise when something is plugged in, as it is always on anyway, the send and return socket are normalled through, so the preamp's sound will always go through the send and return sockets, even if no effect is in line. So maybe the problem is where your effects cables run? Anyway my amp is completely quiet, even with a TC delay in the loop
It sounds like they fixed the issue. I had 2 when they originally came out. The hum was bad enough to make my fillings ache.
I got mine march 29 2024...it is totally quiet...so far
From Where is that 3d probe ?😄
Which postprocessor do you use for the dmc2 in Fusion 360, and where did you get it? i can't find it. Interesting video, btw
Just the standard Mach3Mill one in Fusion360. Vendor is Artsoft. Works with any mill that uses Mach3.
@@amp_mechanicthanks
What did you do to bypass the power bricks; from the looks of the video you didn’t solder the barrel jacks to the board either
I soldered a pair of wires direct to the board. I'm using a single 12V power supply. It's the NVVV
@@amp_mechanic I was wondering about that 12v power supply whenever I watched you video.lol Definitely like this concept a lot more than the mess of bricks. Would happen to have a shot of where you soldered onto the board for those wires. Was looking at the part where show you circuit board mounted but it just looks like a blank space where power input goes
@@kameronmcdougald1442 Sorry, I don't. I just looked this morning and I can't get a clear pic with the wire bundle in the way. I just stripped a long enough section of wire to bridge to both positive and both negative solder points. (I think they are actually connected together on the board anyway.) I think the top is positive but double check by looking at the barrel jack orientation.
What are you using for CAD amd CAM for engraving? Im not having a good time with Fsuion360. It's fine for regular work on the DMC2 but I've been struggling with doing engraving.
This was all done in Fusion 360. Several years ago when I started doing engraving I had a tough time with Fusion as well, I found F-Engrave by Scorch Works. It's free and actually works really well and after using it for a bit, I understood more of the process and was able to program in Fusion successfully. I still use F-Engrave for simple things and for doing inlays as it calculates offsets. Fusion just has more capability for details, reliefs and surface finish.
I have KRK Rockit 6 2nd Gen purchased back in 2011. The one speaker as of two months ago started crackling from the tweeter, even when not connected to an audio source. I swapped the tweeter out from my other KRK to test if it was the tweeter itself and that one also crackled, so it's definitely something on the board itself, however, even with jiggling the wires, there does not seem to be a loose solder joint. I do, however, suffer from all the black goo inside. On my other KRK, I already had to replace one of the resistors that got destroyed from the goo, but that was after watching videos and reading forums. I'm a tech guy, not an electronics guy. Great video!
Thanks Kevbokev, sounds like typical moisture issues. As you likely noticed when replacing that other resistor, there can be a lot of popping while melting the solder. That's contaminants in it, moisture or otherwise. You have to get the goo off anywhere it's gone hard and is over component leads, at the least. Usually there's not a lot of components to replace unless there is significant corrosion. Most of the ones I've done, I end up replacing main power supply caps and the 2.2K power resistors. And re-solder everything.
@@amp_mechanic tha is for the reply. I just got done cleaning off all the black goo, and the crackling is gone. However, now I’ve noticed the sound goes in and out. Almost like different frequencies are missing. If I play a song, the verse vocals are almost gone while the music plays, then when the chorus hits, I hear the vocals very clearly, but the music gets muffled and comes back. I just bought a multipack of capacitors and resistors, so I’ll start replacing any that look corroded, as some resistors do. Caps looks fine, but may end up replacing them anyway. EDIT I was just using a faulty cable. Seems to be working great after cleaning off all the black goo!!
Perfect. It's easy to miss a cable connection. Good job!
What cut height do u run at when the torch is cutting
My default is usually 1.7mm. From there to 2.5mm usually works well. To come up with that, I looked at what the distance was if I was hand cutting using a standoff guide. So if your torch is different, has a different standoff guide length, I'd use whatever that is and adjust from there.
Thanks my stand off was 105 thousandth 😊
Hey nice video im very interested in this cnc. Would you recommend this maschine? I have some questions it would be great if you are able to answer them. Is it working good for you ? Are there any problems with the machine ? How are the tolerances after a long term use ?
I like it, it's been good so far. If you watch my part 3 video (I think?) I share my thoughts. It's not for everyone and I'd be hesitant to recommend it for someone who is brand new to CNC. Not because it's a bad machine, just the learning curve for CNC can be steep and for most people it's a significant investment. With that said, if you have some CNC experience and can troubleshoot normal CNC operating issues, it's a very capable machine for the price. I can't speak to the long term as I haven't been running it for even a year yet.
real nice, but good to see that my desktop cnc mill is not the only one having trouble with steel the dmc inspired me to do something similar ... I now am in the finnishing phases of building and documenting my 5-AXIS DEKSTOP CNC, since id like to make some more complicated parts so if your interested, let me know
There's no trouble with steel, it cuts steel just fine. I wasn't expecting iron and didn't have the appropriate cut parameters or tooling. I thought that first blank was copper. But was only copper plated.
You are making your own CNC Machine? Can it cut steel?
@@jaysaini955 Yes it can. There's a video of me making a bottle opener out of steel. And this CNC is a kit from Shariff DMC. I just swapped out some parts and changed things for my own use.
@@amp_mechanic Oh nice Now, for someone who has 3D printing experience, is this a good first option for CNC?
i reamed 10mm hole in my worktable when making that part (on a cnc wich i know is perfectly trammed) and so i can put a precision 10mm rod inmy spindle and i know the exact location of the hole in my table i i jog my machine there exactly, drop the spindle with the rod in the collet in the hole and tighten it up perfect tramming in 30sec , and real easy 😮, idk mybe this helps someone