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I'd use a astrograph with extension tubes myself, their whole point is to not have distortions or aberrations. Mainly good if you already have one otherwise a good film scanner can be had for the same budget.

Muy bien me preguntó si hiciste pruebas con grasa sobre el cristal ?

How big could you print using this method?

I have a 1a reflex, which is actually a Kodak reflex retrofitted to use the same fresnel lens as the model II. Uses basic red window for film wind. Takes fantastic photos. I re roll the film to 620 spools, it’s easy. I do 10 rolls at a time with a dark bag so I always have some on hand.

Thanks for creating this video tutorial. I have an iPhone 6s and one day I drove down to a beachside suburb to buy an enlarger and some Time Life Photography books. After which I thought what the hell, it's Summer, so I went to the beach for half an hour to read one of the books. Got back in to my car to leave and as I was starting my engine I saw a guy jogging down the sidewalk wearing only shorts with a truck tyre on his back dragging two 8 foot long chains on the ground. I immediately thought I have to get a photo of this. I only had my iPhone so I had to drive 300 - 400 yards down the road, do a U turn, repark and get the shot. Bingo! I got it. So, how to print the shot?

You are absolutely right! I am a really old guy and grew up on darkroom work in the 1970's. And, eventually studied with Morley and Francis Baer in Monterey (CA) in the early 1980's. And got to meet/know many of the Westons--Brett, Cole, and Maggie (who was also a wonderful photographer)--(Brett was living on Maui, but would visit family often in Monterey). But the sets of Marshal's (like you report: too blue in color), Berg, and Spotone spotting kits are just one step above crap. The old 3 page sets of Kodak Spotting Colors (you can find them on eBAY--they are three pages, one black, one sepia, one white, like you show here) are far, far superior to the above. Both in handling--how they soak into the print, and adaptability in color). And then the Kodak Retouching Colors Kits (another eBay item) are also really nice. The "neutral" color--which is a slightly selenium black, blends with a whole variety of blacks, and has a less of a flat black appearance once it drys. The other thing I will do is mix a small amount of Kodak Black Opaquer (again, eBay) into whatever black color I am using, and that will very slightly add to the gloss of the retouch. Not a big deal for a pin point spot, but is huge when you need to retouch larger dark areas. One other helpful thing--for spotting dust particles on negatives. DON'T use a stable brush. Instead use the tiny micro hole side of a sewing needle. Usually the smaller the hole the better. Dip your hole into the opaquer (the "magenta" color in the Kodak Retouching Colors Kit is perfect--it has slight body to it that any fluid will not have), and just slightly tap against your negative. You will get almost perfect spots as small as the dot at the end of this sentence exactly where you need them. Of course, it depends upon the size of the hole in the needle. But this is a highly exacting (and easy) way to apply your materials to a negative. For general negative retouching (details in shadows), the Kodak Black Opaquer cannot be beat with a stable brush. Many times you can find dried out small bottles on eBAY. All you need to do is add a drop of water, and the item will come back to life. This is the same for the old Kodak Scarlet Red bottles. This stuff never goes bad (same for the Retouching Colors Kits and Kodak Spotting Colors).

It wasn't discussed here from what I saw.... Is there a color difference when shooting Tungsten film with an 85 glass filter on the lens vs no glass filter and then applying 85 in Photoshop? Specifically I'm wondering about those fantastic reds from Spielberg films of the early 1980s.

16:23 So, I have made my first few RA-4 prints *ever* during the week-end, and this is interesting information. I am using a Cibacrhome (ILFORD) 8x10 drum that I am just rolling on a table by hand. I am getting some blue/cyan-ish "staining", and using an acid stop (happens to be citric acid. Something that does not seems to be recommended in the very little bit of research I was able to do, which seems to only land of a few random forum posts) got rid of the blue staining. I am slightly confused about the origin of the blue staining, is this over development? I am developing Fujicolor Crystal Archive paper Chemistry I use is the "amateur" RA-4 kit from bellini, the developer does not need a starter or seasoning. They do not mention using a stop bath in their documentation (their documentation is... not very extensive)

Hello! Thanks again for your incredibly helpful videos! Are you still planning on doing a pt2 of your experience using the Silverbase? Thanks again, I appreciate you.

Go to that "freight" store and buy yourself some Step Bits.. Waaay better than what you used to drill into plastic.

Thanks for your tip at 01:27:00. I use a 50mm Beslar for 135 so I will look into upgrading it. I also use a 105 Meopta Anaret. Would you suggest upgrading that one too?

The statistician in me would have liked for you to shoot half a dozen images using constant conditions to see if there was any variability. Would also have been interesting to see color histograms.

How about doing Ultrafine Finesse 100 ?

F_stop printing with the 32

Do you know where I can get the cup for jobo 1520 ? There is absolutely no information on that, internet failed.

Dumb name and dumb intro being naked. No idea why this even popped up on my feed.

i got lucky with an old picture frame i already had which has a textured glass. I use it for making contact sheets of course

Thank you for doing this 😀

Nice video. I like the motion blur of the pickup truck in the shot of the old run-down building. Adds to the story of the building's neglect and passing of time.

Hi Mr Naked and thank you for this very well done Video! I think, it is nothing mor but a verbal error of yours .... but .... it takes 33ml of battery acid to make 1 liter of bleach and not 10 ml as you claim! Battery acid is concentrated to 37% sulphoric acid and that makes 33ml then. Indeed ..... the ILFORD REVERSAL PROCESS works very well with FOMA 100 Film! Yours from Germany Klaus Rickert

Love the shirt Ferrari -> Ferrania

This is why I recorded YT videos at night only. And it was such a strain on me that I quit recording videos altogether. Sorry, CZcams, I failed you.

Great video, thank you!

Chris Sherlock has been so patient with me and has helped with any questions I have had. While I have not done a CLA on one of the reflex cameras I got into doing all the others. I lucked out of a massive amount of dead man's camera collections and am slowly going through them with the view to sell. Just gone through an eye surgery making my close vision off a bit so will have to use a magnifying glasses like Chris does to see the springs. Before I never needed it. I have retina iic and a iiic available I'll start doing photos of them on my IG and when I get some time will be putting them on eBay and set up an Etsy shop. I have loads of voightlander and Zeiss ikon. I love stripping down a leaf shutter. I do exactly what Chris Sherlock does even the aperture blades. I'm a perfectionist!! So any camera you buy from me is fully serviced and working. I'm from the UK but live in sunny France now and have an ig page as monoart69. Request to follow and send me a message if anyone is interested. Chris maybe retired but some of us are crazy enough to continue. Happy shooting everyone

How come I see my eye floaters at 3:10 lol

imagine my shock, having not read the channel name, when he turned around.

Oh man that seems like a pain in the ass! Great video though!

I just got a roll in an assorted 16 lot bundle on eBay and I'm looking for a video to see how this performs, damn you got me Lol. Btw the cost of the bundle was just over $5 per roll, i refuse to pay the mark up on these.

I would think having the lights pointing at the outer edge of each eye on an angle that the tip of the nose and edge of the ear are equally distanced from each light may work better, if you haven't tried that, Just my thought's.

I just got a kodak brownie six-20 C. I am going to be respooling some rolls of 120 and trying it out, I have a feeling it will be a similar experience, no focus, just try to get the subject 3+ meters away. No shutter control, roughly 1/50th and bulb. Fixed aperture at F11. It is however, unlike the Holga, well made, being all metal for the most part, and quick testing with strips of 35mm doesn't seem to leak light. I will also have some fun attempting to develop the probably 1950s or 60s Agfa isopan film that was in it when I got it. It was wound to the last frame so I am pretty sure it has been exposed by someone else, decades and decades ago. Also, quick question how would you develop this, I was thinking that since I have no idea how exposed or degraded it is, stand development in rodinal may be my best option but I've only done analog photography for two years so it would be nice to hear the opinions of someone more experienced.

1:1 is not an equal total exposure when side light is producing fresnel reflections

Great video. But I used this small light meter and it never worked properly-waste of money. Thank you.

I’ve bought the first version, it worked well for a few months but the button got stuck. I tried many ways to contact the company to try to fix it or exchange it but not a single reply.

Also please note Linhof has spatial coating inside to reduce light reflection and cheap one dose not have it!

I would like to see this same comparison from a 4x5 neg.

Double X in stock D-76 is just lovely lovely lovely.

Ah this is neat, I won on ebay an old Czechoslovak condenser color enlarger and a bunch of accessories, and I was curious if I was able to adjust contrast when printing on ilford multigrade paper without using multigrade filter, but just changing the color of the light with the built-in filter Looks like performance is the same, just exposure times are not. That's great!

Is the carriage bolt 1/4" x 1" long, or shorter?

I have a male dancer coming to the studio tomorrow. I'm definitely grabbing a few rolls of ortho as well for the portraits at least. Good stuff. Thanks for all of these videos!

You can get a Holga lens for Nikon and Canon DSLRs. I put one on my Canon EOS T1 (yeah.. I know that camera is ancient) and take those same crappy pictures with a lot less headache and film cost. It makes digital pics look kinda cool, especially when you tweak color and black and white filter settings.

I love you, bro thank you for my lessons

Hey Gregory. Would love to see a video on the Zone System. Any plans on making one right now?

The positive thing is that they have finally developed a body projected forward and not to the sides, like the previous ones, which interfered with the controls of some cameras placed very close to the flash shoe (e.g. Leica III, etc.)

A good honest review. Thanks, Naked Guy.

Thanks, Greg; good review as always. I purchased the KEKS for my rangefinder 35 about a year ago, to avoid having to carry a large meter with my compact kit. It costs about 25% more than the XH-2 (perhaps more by now), but it does default to single, rather than continuous, reading, and the display stays on for about 14 seconds. I've used it fairly little, and I've gotten so used to using a spot meter that it takes some adjustment to use 30-degree average metering.

Love the T-shirt.

A nice looking little meter. It looks well thought out. A few points to note. 1. If you're going to be testing a meter, you should be using slide film. 2. I would never use a phone app meter for anything. I've tested pretty much all of them thru the years and have yet to find one that gives accurate or even consistent readings. 3. Interior light varies a lot in intensity depending on where you're looking. Natural light outdoors is much more even. Continuous readings allow you to see how much variation you have in the scene. 4. The one drawback I see is that the display is on the top. This will wash out in sunlight, making it difficult to read. This is also why you found it necessay to lock the display. If the display were on the back (like Reveni) you can see it in direct sun and don't need to tilt it to read the display. It is nice to see more film gear being made, though.

🤔🤔Think this is actually made in China- figures.

No guess...READ the F instructions!🤣🤣