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Hi

Great video even I understood it !! I see in your video that there is blue sliding bar on the left , I have a blue bar that slides on the bottom but no side slide bar ! Any idea why this is missing please ?

Subscribed! Thanks a lot for the guidance

Thank you! Great Video! Very Helpful!

Title of video: change filament mid print Part he skips over showing: changing the filament over midprint 🤦‍♂️

Hello. I purchased the CR Touch and installed it along with the firmware upgrade. When I do the Auto Home, I do not get the same results as in the video. What mine is doing is pushing the nozzle into the bed. The touch point comes down, but it's like it isn't registering correctly. Do you have any suggestions?

For me i have an ender 3 i have loaded the firmware on but it is not saying bilinear leveling my software is 2.0.8.2 and hardware is 4.2.2

plug and play for me! I plugged a logitech webcam into the rpi 4 running octopi (the os image) and then on my computer web browser i navigated to the rpi 4's ip address and signed in, clicked connect (to the printer) and then the control tab. I saw the web cam image without any set up. Also, I my octopi was in command line view not the desktop view, I connect via static ip address which is easy to set up.

Hello, thank you for making this video, it was very helpful. I’m stuck one a problem though. I was able to compile and flash my firmware onto my printer, but now when I go to auto home, the auto homing sequence doesn’t even touch the X or Y endstops (which would lead to some collisions later on if I tried to do anything else with the printer). But The Z sequence works with the BLTouch probe just fine. I flashed firmware from bigtreeTech to confirm it wasn’t a wiring issue, and the auto homing worked perfectly fine for X and Y with the bigtree firmware. However there were some problems with the Z home sequence that are more troublesome than they are worth. Anyways I’m assuming this is now just a coding issue. So now I’m trying to make my compiled firmware work. Do you have any suggestions to fix the x and y homing issue? Thanks.

Bro why are you so rigid? Loosen up or I'm done watching your channel.

Yeah, the problem was that printer IP was changed somehow and was not matching the original one i had on orca.

Sorted , restart ruter and start working

Still not working

Will try and let you know 🙏

Hi thanks for your advice, i did all this and still got the same problem 🤷🏻‍♂️

ji great video and very imformative ...but heres the But ... the swap icon is not showing to flip to other printers

4.2.2, i have updated thru creality.(Ender-3 ProMarlin2.0.6HW4.2.2EuropeMultiLanguage 29 Nov. 2022.) your videos said you like to stay away from stock creality firmware. so my question now is how do i pick between 512 or 256?

Hello, my orca slicer device tap not working showing blank screen could you please help me how to fix it. Was working perfectly and today just stopped

I "had" and I say HAD because my printer is a Tronxy XY 2 pro printer but..... I have replaced everything on it, is just the frame as a Tronxy. Actually it is a printer with Makerbase Nano Robin 3.1 electronics and TFT screen with E3d v6 extruder and so on. It works fine in CURA even the USB files reading and WIFi to send files, everything is absolutely fine with proximity sensor and glass bed. I have heard a lot about Orca Slicer as the best of the best but I have a little problem that really is a huge problem: the printer does not print!. Starts, home, does all Gcode start routine, the heat for nozzle and bed are at the printing level but nothing happens. Maybe someone to guide me to solve this "little incident"? I like Orca, looks very practical for the simplicity to calibrate the printer , they even considered MKS and the Wifi works perfectly sending the files. Hope I can use it.

Thank you for the info on the marlin firmware update website!

I can get mine to go below 0.00?

Hi I have an Ender 3 Pro and I have recently purchased an SKR min3 v3 and a CR Touch. In have watched your video which I found really helpful. I did however run into a series of problems when I made the suggested edits to the configuration settings. Various functions were reported as requiring things which were aparently not available e.g. "Mesh_Edit_Menu requires Mesh_Bed_Leveling..."The build is showing as "Failed". How can I remedy these issues? Thanks

Hi what changes to marlin would i need to make if i want to remove the endstop limit switch.

I'm getting ready to install this board with the TFT35 touch screen. This is totally NOT a bookmark comment.

I was able to finally find the time and swap my noisy 24v fan with a Noctua 12v and a buck converter. I have a generic Ender 3, thanks for the model. Thanks for the thorough explanation and detailed video! I didn't measure the sound before and after, but the difference on the ear is huge.

Video was bomb as hell. New to compiling firmware and just installing skr mini e3 v3 in my ender 3 with cr touch. Do I need to enable "bltouch_set_5v_mode"? CR touch says it needs 5v but the 5pin ports on board say it is 5v to start with... I am worried about starting it up and frying something in my cr touch or board so any insight would be extremely helpful

Mine says “your configuration.h file is for an old version of Marlin. Downgrade Marlin or upgrade your configuration” what am i supposed to do here and how? 6:32

3 years later and you still helped me out with that tip about using brim! i was printing one of these for a cr10s pro v2 and couldnt figure out why it kept getting a weird under extrusion / layer shift on the same spot on 2 prints. thanks!

Thanks for the video. The steps were straightforward to follow. So, I used 8 of 10 of my downloads trying to get Marlin to work with Ender 3, Cr-Touch, Sprite Extruder, and a run-out sensor. My Creality touch screen never loads, the boot-up screen never works, and the new software has never been installed.

you have to "Donate" to use a service. That is not what a donation is. That is paying for a service.

definitely a great next step for beginners in the 3d printing space, needed this last week but I ended up just learning VScode and compiled successfully thanks to your older videos!

could you add a high temp (300c) skr e3 mini v3 with dual z axis

Hi inwas wondering if you could help build my btt skr mini v2 firmware? I have an ender 3 with stock lcd with rotary encoder, dual z axis,sprite pro,crtouch the crtouch is mounted front left of nozzle still have the end stop micro switch build plate 230×230. Love your videos I'm now subscribed. Regards Simon.

first. i know its overdone

SUPER!! THX Bro!

Hi, I'm getting an error on the command to set octoprint to automatically start and it says, Failed to enable unit: Unit file octoprint.service does not exist. I'm not really into IT but the link in the command leads to a 404 so I don't know if that's that problem or if that's something else that's not really related.

After selecting the first Marlin folder I got this error: Could not find one of 'package.json' manifest files in the package. Maybe that's why at the end of compiling I received a bunch of errors, like hal-SPI.cpp.o Errors. And I also have errors about the Motherboard DIAG jumpers must be removed when SENSORLESS_HOMEING is disabled. Also they've apparently changed SHOW SD PERCENT to SHOW PROGRESS PERCENT so I have those errors that I will fix and try again.

Qidi should pay you to make these videos, you basically did their job, thank you! Also a tip from me, I could not get speedy prints like the demonstration benchy using the Qidi or Orca slicer, benchy that took 17 minutes was taking 40-45... I found no info nowhere. So I found a way recently and am happy with it. On the webpage where you download the latest firmware, there is also the benchy Gcode file, download it and in Qidi slicer, click file and then 'import config' click on the downloaded gcode file. Baam, now the 45 minutes is down to 17 like in the demonstration and you can study which settings they played with to get that speed and make modifications by comparing with the standart PLA rapido profile. Also my other prints besides benchy is nearly 2-3 times faster and with ok quality in my opinion. One thing that pissed me was, I had to spend good time to get this info, and it wasnt written anywhere. Either everybody knew, or very few experienced people did. Which is probably the case because everybody on Reddit and so on was saying that it was a heavily modified Gcode and it wasnt realistic to print that fast :D It makes me curious why Qidi didnt include this config as a preset profile, like maybe 'hyper fast' profile so nobody needs to do these research to get these configs. Is it bad for 3d printer health or longevity, is it because they didnt want quality to be poor as speed often decreases it... I dont know. But lack of transparency is weird.

Great review thank you One quick question how do you turn off the 3d printer? I couldnt find any option in the UI for that. So I just switch the power switch on the back f the printer, which doesnt feel right

Still new to 3d printin but u think this is was my ender 3 pro can no longer read sd card after updating it from the creality after installing the firmware for a cr touch board 4.2.2 it says no tf card

After booting up the new firmware, when initiating the auto home process, the BLTouch sensor is triggered as expected. However, the issue arises where the Z-axis continues to descend without stopping

Nice tips and overview. Interesting to wonder about the Z height of the model relative to the layer heights - if printing a 1mm model at .3mm initial layer height then .2 layers after will result in print that is .9mm or 1.1mm thickness rather than 1mm. Based on my Cura preview, it might be .9mm since it gives 4 layers instead of 5. Although you could ensure the Z thickness of the desired print stays the same by dividing the regular layer height by the number of non-initial layers. (such as .7/4 in this example)

Iv got a cr-10 smart pro running klipper iv got cura set up for klipper but have no clue regarding the settings for orca? Is there preset profiles for speed and quality at klipper speeds like you get on cura Things like enable acceleration jerk and etc you turn off on cura Just a run down of how your ender 3 pro and etc is profiled in orca for the better speed klipper can give

Hi there, thank you for the very informative video. I'm a complete noob when it comes to the firmware, but sooo keen to lean. I have added a Bigtreetech Microprobe V2, on the SKR mini e3 V3, on my Ender 3 Pro. I followed all your seps, excluding-the Bltouch and defined the Microprobe. The Auto level fails, from old corner home position, the extruder moves to the center about 4mm above the bed, raises by 10mm, probe is deployed but comes shy of touching the bed and fails. I have lowered it to the lowest point but still fails. Could you maybe point me in the right direction for it to lower till it probes the bed?

\Warnings.cpp:738:6: warning: #warning "Motherboard DIAG jumpers must be removed when SENSORLESS_HOMING is disabled. (Define DIAG_JUMPERS_REMOVED to suppress this warning.)" [-Wcpp], I keep getting same warning and tried to disable only to make matters worse. Got any tips, thanks

Can you pls do a video of how to do a Y axis squaring? I can;t find any info or video of how to do that? My toolhead is descending into the Contact Sensor instead of just gently touching that silver metal round pad and then raising above the bed. Thank you.

I'm not sure if anyone else has this issue I got to the cable connecting part and I don't know if they gave me the wrong cable but all the tips are the same tip I can't connect it directly to the power pls help

Nozzle attempts to crash into bed if I didn’t stop it. What am I doing wrong.

Wait just plug in and unplug how do I know the printer installs and finishes the install?

Start the video at eight minutes❤