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We are just replacing the leaf springs. The OEM shocks are still in the factory location. On these trucks they have the GM Magna ride shocks.

@@UniversalAir 👍🏽

Yes you would want to fuse the compressors separately. Depending on which compressor your running (they have different amp draws), wire type (aluminum vs copper), quality of wire etc would all effect the "proper" size. Personally I would run an 8 awg wire.

Our goal is to help eliminate the bad reputation of air suspension. Assuming its at least a decent quality product, problems are typically from a poor installation.

@@UniversalAir who can I contact to get a quote for installation?

It appears closer in the video than it actually is. After a strenuous uphill ride, there was no noticeable heat in the bag. We would be worried if it was near a catalytic converter or headers.

We agree. We do have an air suspension conversion kit if your maverick was AWD. We haven't had a RWD come though to build up the brackets. www.universalair.com/shop/ford-maverick-2021-2024-awd-solution-series-4438?search=maverick&order=name+asc#attr=2817

Just connect the output of the pressure switch to both relays for the turn on. Jump from one to the other or two wires off the same prong on the pressure switch.

Problem with the ac compressors is refrigerant has oil to lubricant the compressor. If you try to use it for air it will require good maintenance so it doesn't blow up. It will pump the oil out of the compressor and have to be replenished. Will also need to remove the oil or it will be exhausted from your valves

if your adding a second compressor to an existing system, you can either bump up your wiring to a larger gauge and run both compressors off the solenoid (like shown in the video). Another option is to just run another wire back and individually relay them. If you have an Airlift 3P/H system they do run a negative trigger for the second compressor which you can wire up to another relay (instead of grounding other post, it would go to positive since the controller provides the ground). To be honest, I would just pickup the harness that airlift made as its prewired and setup for the negative trigger. They stage the compressors turning them on one at a time to limit the amperage spike of both turning on at the same time. www.universalair.com/shop/al-27703-airlift-3h-3p-2nd-compressor-harness-791?search=2nd+compressor&order=name+asc#attr=

www.universalair.com/shop/30-100376-can-am-x3-kit-3839

Sure

Thanks for watching!

Sorry for the delay. 90 amps, 20 feet away is a big ask. If that's the running current, I would absolutely not run that. Startup current is substantially higher. Online calculator says for 90 amps you should be running 1 awg for copper and 2/0 for aluminum for a 5% voltage drop. If its been hooked up that way, use the multimeter to measure how much voltage you have at the compressors while they are running. I would suspect that wire will be getting hot, or their amperage rating might be inflated.

www.universalair.com/shop/30-100376-can-am-x3-complete-air-suspension-kit-3839?search=x3&order=name+asc#attr=

I would suggest away from tapping into the stereo system. It will tend to induce noise when the solenoid/relay is turned on/off. My go-to source for an ignition is the 12 volt power plug, aka Cig lighter. Typically they will be an ignition source (switched)

Will do!

We avoid the products made out of Asia. The tubing we use is made in either USA, or Australia. Its more flexible and easier to run though the vehicles.

They are coated black.

assuming your not running a huge stereo system it shouldn't be a problem. Best thing is to just check your voltage at the compressors with them running.

wouldn't suggest it since the relay/solenoid turning on/off can induce noise in your stereo.

The proper way to do hardlines is to flare them with AN, SAE, or JIC fittings. (AN Most popular). Make sure that the fittings/line your using doesn't rust. I would suggest Aluminum, stainless or brass. Not steel.

PTC fittings are reusable, compression isn't without replacing the feral.

Adding protection to the line isn't a bad idea. Typically its not necessary except if you have to run the line though high heat areas or across sharp edges. Compression fittings (Ferrule) are a permanent type of fitting, however, they are prone to improper installation (typically overtightening them), but when used properly they do seal very good. Personally I prefer a good high quality PTC fitting where servicing is easier and can re-use without cutting the hose and replacing the ferrule.

They run the ground up to the battery which will be a good spot. I personally think it’s a little light on the gauge, but it should be sufficient as it’s decent wire. Biggest thing is if your running two compressors, pickup the 2nd compressor harness.

Currently we have newer Chevy 2500/3500, 1500, 64/65 Lincoln continental and Toyota hiace in production. We will be working on ram 2500 and 3500 for the next model releases. After that it’s the ford products. If you have any model requests please let us know.

Will this work on 2017 gmc sierra Denali 2wd?

Yes, but make sure your not going to get low voltage as your battery dies. You want to keep it at least 12 volts with the pumps on. The more the better. Compressors will run hotter, and fill slower with lower voltage

@@UniversalAir Thanks for your reply! I have one more question: What is the best way to test the battery with multimeter...When the compressors are running or when they are off?

Best after the tank as water will always condense when it hits the tank. Drain it regularly to prevent buildup. If you get a lot of water out, do it more often. Only a little less is fine. All depends on the humidity in the air.

They typically run a special metric fitting and typically it’s part of the compressor/dryer unit. Since it’s a regenerative dryer maybe get be time to replace the dryer or pump 😔. Also inspect the hose. If it looks melted/deformed I personally would replace it too.

Unfortunately that’s the case is a lot of places. My hope was to help people/shops with the install. I believe it’s more important to work with someone who takes pride in their work. Sometimes the best shops out there have employees who don’t and I would prefer someone who has heart and cares over someone who has done 100 of my vehicle models just slaps it in there.

I typically do 4 awg for a pair of pumps, but a high quality 6 would be sufficient. It really depends on how far the run is. If the wire is undersized it will cause a voltage drop. Only thing hurt by too large is the pocket. To small can cause damage. Ground should be the same or larger. The longer the run, the larger it should be. Google an amperage chart for how long your run is. A good rule of thumb is a compressor pulls about 20 amps. www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=22195&thumb=1&d=1280149123