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As I understand the MAP sensor is directly connected to DME and you might have to check the ISM for any blown fuse as it powers DME. TERMINAL 87 means it should be powered by a relay so relay powered fuses are 4,5 and 6. 5 is the more likely 20A fuse. Make sure the MAP sensor is a good and genuine one, it can cause no start issues, also check its wires for any damage in it's path

@@bimmerhacks I took apart the ism last year and didn’t find any blown fuses. I’ve been having intermittent “terminal 87_1 no power” for a good 4-5 years. I could drive for 300 miles and no code And when I get back I. The car it will pop right up then go away.

@kevinphothisen5559 it could be any of your sensors. Not an expert advice but as far as I understand

Is your belt shredding due to the leak?

@@bimmerhacks no, but I try to fix a belt squeak on cold engine and on acceleration on road when car is cold. I dont know how to fix it.

@@djidwawa it might be PCV squeak... Check your PCV Membrane probably it will be worn and that should be the cause of your oil seal pushing oil out.

@@bimmerhacks Thinking about it too but few weeks ago I mount new one.

@djidwawa no luck right?

Thank you

I bought from Amazon US. See the description

This will happen only if you have done any work on steering rack. If yes tighten it to it's spec as I have mentioned

@@bimmerhacks i haven’t done any work on my car! it started about 2 weeks ago! i’ll check again it maybe streing compound

Rear Fuse box Fuse 131 & 134 for Instrument Cluster.

As far as I understood you don't have to. I did not try but the board only has fuses and relays. The JBE has to programmed

czcams.com/video/XR-Z9Tg46xA/video.htmlsi=pibuPxaZTn9wx__Z As I explained in this video 27mm means there is no oil pressure inside the HPFP, it might have oil in it if fuel didn't penetrate in but NO USE. If you're repairing go for fully immersed method which I recommend rather than filling oil through oil seal. U can install the oil seal at the end same as I have shown in this video once all other parts has been installed immersing in oil. Vacuum must not exceel 40ml on a 60-100ml syringe

great then 100% these pumps are pressurized internally with oil and their optimal and long-lasting operation is the load of oil to lubricate these internal parts, what I don't understand is why the new pumps do not have this pressurization, I imagine low quality Chinese production, this Chinese pump, is it possible to fill it with oil and make it work correctly? Thank you very much for the info

@@moisesgonzalez8103 open it up and see. Don't buy refurbished one, when you rotate the itself you can feel a grinding sense. Buy junkyard one and fix if your diaphragm or any springs are leaking.

No fix for Diaphragm. Go and get a junkyard one so that you have spare compression springs as well.

@@bimmerhacks thanks bradah

czcams.com/video/Nw16sjVMTXA/video.htmlsi=ecK5ldPlOs96y4gO See this and go for completely dipping in oil procedure

That new info for me. I'll try it next time, always the clip used to fall off from my hands. Thanks mate

Tried it... U made my life easier

Reduce the spring meaning? I tried 3 new Oil seal from BMW all failed as well.

No.

Yes. Still working well.

Please see description for sizes. Part number is shop specific so I don't think it will work in your area, those are listed below Hpfp x-ring - 37757 Oil seal 62856

No need to change it. I have repaired 3 HPFP and none did I change

@@bimmerhacks thank you

@user-ek5qu6he6m czcams.com/video/XR-Z9Tg46xA/video.html I used to miss some information that I used to convey in succeeding videos. Fixing and vloging together is a bit difficult ;)

Heavy vehicle and machineries seals & hoses shop

Thinner than 0w20 will be too light that it will not do the job of lubrication. If there is no lubrication there will be more wear and metal shavings will accumulate like sand. I think you can use 5w30 if you want thicker but too thicker might not work properly as the flow of oil has to be fast to compress the pistons. I had tried the thicker differential oil 3 years back and it was running fine, but one day out of curiosity I opened up and found that it was not lubricating as it should and was accumulating metal shavings.

@@bimmerhacks I was thinking the same, 15w40 ok?

@@1kontrabida it should be OK, just my thoughts not a pro 😉

Yes

This was done 2 weeks back. I had done similar fix 3 years back and its still running fine and crossed 25k miles. If the pressure inside the hpfp is higher then there is more possibility of early failure

Location?

Ras Al Khaimah, where you located?

@@nabeelhendricks2703 AUH

Can you do it?

@nabeelhendricks2703 I can do but cannot guarantee how much time it will take as I am very bad at soldering... 😅

Buy regular 16MM Steel Nut Bolt with good washers and install it. Not need for BMW made bolts as it's independent bolt with it's own nut 😉

Hi Afeef, can I have a question? It seems that this 50A fuse is the problem on my car, but before disassemble , I ask friend with some electrical knowledge to have a look and there was one strange thing. When ignition is on, there is cca 12V on the input terminal and no current on output (connector to the coolant pump), so fuse seems logical. But, when we remove the whole bloody thing out of the car, there is no resistance between input terminal and connector to the coolant pump. Shouldn't be there a resistance when fuse is broken? It's on F20 car, same engine, the parts seems to be the same just in different location.

@Marv43625 I don't know about the resistance thing that you are talking about which is control and BSD signals I guess. But for sure you need to get a 12 volts output from the water pump connector or the ISM water pump output connection which is a single PIN all the time when the engine is running. So as per me your ISM is good and problem will be in your Water pump. You can see the dismantled water pump in my videos, it's complex circuit so you might have to change the Water pump

@@bimmerhacks thanks for reply! engine was not runnig, just ignition switched on. I just swaped new engine, just a core all accessories and wires are from my old engine, including water pump. I wanted to bleed coolant before first start and there is code "coolant pipe missing" We checked the ground, there is no problem. So, I do not have 12V going to the pump from ISM, should it be when igition is on but engine is not runnig?

@@bimmerhacks I'm not saying that my pump is ok, but it was before my conrod jumped out from the engine block, so I want to rule out simple things first :)

@Marv43625 😲 how come conrod jumped out and you still have the engine working!!!

Water pump actuator is fail safe. It will disengage on cold start and will start only when the engine is Hot. I think your issue is with engine oil temperature sensor. Till you sort out the issue you can drive the car by disconnecting the electrical connection to water pump actuator pulley

But if I disconnect the pulley the pump won’t work either , the water won’t pump or pump so it will just keep on overheating still

@ThabangRamaboya-bd3eu no way. If you disconnect the electrical connector of that friction wheel belt tensioner the water pump should be always working. It is fail safe part. If not take a video and send me the link

Oh I get it now , so basically the water pump will run non stop okay I understand….ill try that today and see if I don’t win So if the engine continues to overheat after this solution what would be really wrong because if it was the oil temperature sensor wasn’t it supposed to show oil warning light on screen ?

Update: similar root cause, after reclipping, the rod detached again when pulling the lever. I bent the rod slightly so it have more upward leverage that it won’t detached again. Thanks again for your video.

@anwarm1mosa thank you for your support

It's the Water pump getting faulty due to water ingression. It's a sophisticated part. Just replace it

Yeah I'm going that route

Error code? Any previous work done that brought it to no start condition?

Make sure the top and the left and right sides are flat part on the CAM. U CAN USE THE SPANNER to adjust the CAM as in video

😂😂😂

Cooling gas line ... I bought a new compressor made by VAICO so far running great.

No. You can view better from an angle. The gearbox makes it difficult from underneath as I remember.

That might be tongue slip from my voiceover. You can see the zero compression in my pinned comment.

I corrected the timing czcams.com/video/WTXni74qbXM/video.htmlsi=1MfehMx_ThovLZTl If you have the same sound as in the video and if your timing was done correctly then the valves might have got bent and u might have to replace the Valves which is a big job.

@@bimmerhacks I already did replace the valves because they got damaged, corrected timing still no initialization. My mechanic thinks its an electrical fault. So i’m waiting till i get the new electrical card to test it out again..

@aymenbenbeya674 in my understanding if it is electrical there must be error code. If the crank sounds the same as mine then it's definitely zero compression NO DOUBT. Your mechanic might have done the same mistake as I did. If you can make a video and send me to verify while cranking. If the cranking is normal then you can check the ISM and other fuses before heading to DME. But still I believe it's a wrong timing done

@@bimmerhacks That’s the thing..its not showing any error codes. I can send the video of my car cranking sound its the same as yours, no compression in it but everything was done twice and rechecked.

@@bimmerhacks They also checked the fuses before heading to DME. They thought it might be the Valvetronic fault since it still had no compression but test said it was working properly so I still believe its a wrong timing done.

Ac knobs the fan sign gets rubbed over time. You can buy it from AliExpress n change it. It's super easy

@@bimmerhacks thanks for the heads up

No change in performance, but a hazard to engine life.

Email me @ bimmersword@gmail.com

@@bimmerhacks I sent u a email from rwells360

this is the exact issue that i have czcams.com/users/shortsTGaU7WWzLas?si=apmnzVKwMuP6QZ_E

May be the sensor issue inside the door lock itself. I saw this issue in my cousins F10 car but I didn't get time to confirm the problem.

I have told that I am changing fuel rail sensor and why I am changing. I have mentioned the reasons and symptoms as well.