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If the sides are too high you may get a sitar sound or buzzing but if not and there is no trapping it would be fine

Of all the YT how-to videos I watch I have yet to see anyone file correctly! Why is that? To not lift the file off the metal on the back stroke just ruins the file in no time. Diamond grit is a different matter, but files with cut teeth dull themselves almost instantly when you drag em across the metal backwards, even if what you are cutting is softer. (brass v. steel, ect)

I believe by now you are a master in this.

Hi

+1 teeny tiny screwdriver method.

I literally wanted to shoot myself in the face to escape this video. The guy never even gets the nut installed.

More accurately titled: Mister Turtles Tutorial ...for those who have ALL FUCKING DAY. :o)

bit ragged mate

is the string tree needed? I feel like since the tuners are progressively compensated the point is that you don't need the tred

Just an FYI that those Fender roller nuts are a drop in for the 90s Strat Plus, esp. the early ones with that larger roller nut. The only modification I needed to do in that case was drilling two screw holes.

You will get dust in the bearings and bye bye roller nut.

See the low E ! That is perfect. Nut files should be as hard to get as a gun! Please stop!

That first fret is way too deep.

Making it deeper will fuck it up. The strings should just float on top of that grove. I have a set of files and they are just for cutting new bone nuts.

Couldn't you just intimate the guitar for the action problem instead of filing it down?

nearly 9 minutes of talking bullshit before you even begin to remove the nut -

Thanks for the video and information. Sincerely, Chris in Christ

Great looking axe.

Where was this video 5 days ago? Hehe. Clamps next time yes.

I dont know if you already done this but go get a polishing creme for metals from a hardware store and rub it hard with a cloth....not only it ll look beyond awesome polished but it ll also be clean and the nut grooves ultra slick....i have two brass nuts in two of my strats and they are beyond awesome. Of course do the poilishing while the nut is out or else mask the surrounding area cause the amount of blackness it ll produce is beyond words.

I have a feeling you should be using a feeler gauge between your first fret and the bottom side of your strings. I think you want between .010 - .012. Just sayin'

I have the F1 oil.

Hey there kind soul...your vid on the brass nut in the strat was very enlightening for me indeed.I have a "super strat" type guitar (Suhr Pro series) that I am having a bunch of trouble replacing the nut(3 in a row) in. My dilemma is not an action or playability issue at all...I believe I have to file the angle of the nut seat itself properly toward the tuners because I keep getting that funky "fret buzz",although its being caused by the improperly pre shaped Tusg nuts I have put in. What a frustrating mess. My question is after you filed the brass nut did you have ANY kind of buzz or string "ring out" that some call "sympathetic" vibration? I have not filed these nuts at all and believe this is my problem. I love that brass nut and think I might try one. How is yours playing? God Bless you friend.

Another way to fix the nut height with less chance of making an error on the 6 nut slot depths (as well as saving the cost of buying Japanese files, which quickly add up. Especially if you will only use them a few times) is to simply sand the bottom of the nut. Some of them are flat, which makes for easy work. Simply get a flat level surface, wrap some sandpaper around it (use sandpaper suited to metal, start around 100 grit, and take your time, checking often) and sand away. If you get a nut that shares the necks radius, you will need to make that radius on a spare piece of wood, and then use it as your template for the nut. Apologies for the multiple posts, I really should have waited until the end of the video. Cheers!

Also, when tuning, use your 5th note harmonic. It is always true since it is the harmonic, and has much less of an elliptical movement on the string (which is what causes the string to go flat and sharp when you hit the open note).

To check the relief at the first fret, bar the 3rd fret, and use a feeler gauge at 1/1000 of an inch. It should just slide under.

Only thing I learned from this was , don't take a pick guard off if you don't know what your doing , all you done was snap the mid pick up wire and solder it back into the place , well done

would have been way easier just to sand the bottom surface of the nut

That was a shock! I I am going to get myself a vise, and try something a little different.

in referance to Fender stratocaster replacement nut by wm walder What video do show the rest of the work done to finish fitting the brass nut that you decided to use?

Thank it help me a lot