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I think yours has this adjustment because you have a variable speed head. The step pulley head requires the circular lever (for back gear) to drop further. Either by taking some material off the bottom surface of the big ring with the handle (more engagement), or by modifying the 2 dowel screws that ride in the groove in that same part.

Is there a seal at the double roller bearing keeping the oil from leaking from behind the chuck?

Thank you for moving your camera into position to get close-ups and details of those nooks and crannies. So many other vids give static views from a standing position and you have no idea of what they are referencing as they talk. I really like this design because it is so basic and you can more easily get to critical areas for inspection and maintenance. I would get a 1" version if I win my state's lottery. Big thanks

Thanks for the info 😊

Boy, that was easy! To make it easier to get to and see, I pulled out the connector and used a short jumper wire instead, as the span looked a bit too wide for a fuse. I then reconnected the plug and it works great. This has been such a nuisance all these years! Thanks for the tip!

Brilliant information but Display 3 is for a 3 axis setup XYZ Axis yours is for a lathe so it should be set 2 XY Axis, I have the three axis version on my mill so while I no some things there is a lot I have not figured out yet my sense is that some of the set ups are for full on CNC rather than my mill which is manual. These DRO scales are set for millimetres the inch scale is a calaulated value

Have you had the back gear apart? I am in the process of gearbox oil change and found a bolt at the bottom of the case. It appears it came out of the right hand side of the back gear shaft holding the gear on. Now I have play left to right because that gear is loose. I have not found the washer yet. I can’t seam to get the room to simply put the bolt back in without taking the back gear assembly completely out

Brilliant information thank you for this help

Had you on my "Favorites" list, I should have actually watched other than to mark it as having potential. It answers a bunch of things that most of the other video's glaze over. Not even holding the camera on it long enough to get a good look. Thank you.

Mine is 1 1/8" shaft

Is there anyway you can take a picture of your motor plate? I just got a lathe like this and the motor tag is missing. I have no idea Amps, horsepower, rpm or anything.

thanks for showing me that small setscrew for the slide plate on the detent gear plate.

Mine doesn't "snap out" that hard...how do I adjust that spring? The one to make it pop out harder

I need a tailstock for my rockwell 14" anyone have one for sale?

I have the exact machine and have been planning a similar modification.

Thank you! Your video rekindled my wanting to repair the upper limit stop. Come to find out the little barbell in the top was installed backwards. My J-head works perfectly now!

I have one that's made from cast iron, I use mine to melt lead for fishing sinkers. I burn old gas in mine, usually gas I pumped out of boats I junked or cars I scrapped that had bad fuel. On mine, the plunger has packing in it and can be tightened up as it wears. When I found it I think it had kerosene or white gas in it, there wasn't much smell. These are referred to as a 'plumber's pot' and are a product of the days when lead was melted to seal cast iron pipe joints.

Really excellent design all around, sir! Extremely solid, safe, adjustable, and worthy of the machine it's going on.

Haha! My question from part 1 is answered. ...And you did exactly what I was hoping you would. On to part 3...

Great idea you've got there! I'm wondering; are you going to incorporate a kill switch that deactivates the motor when the bar is pressed - basically making it an emergency stop? ...or is it going to be strictly a convenience feature to stop it more quickly after you turn the power off? ...Guess I'll wait and see what happens in part 2.

Anyone happen to see which way this-a-way is?

Thank you

great video, thanks

Today, I received my Hymseann SNS-3V DRO (3 axis) and had a little play with it. (bought on aliexpress) Indeed, 1 press on the dot key during startup brings me to the settings. There some very small changes in he software compared to your device(f.e. the DRO 5 and DIGIMAC5 settings are not there), but there must be a dozen of software iterations used by all those rebranded china DROs I guess. Thing what suprised me was that the basic calculator function does not work at all. Not a biggie, but.. why? I also had some trouble getting the diameter mode on the X-axis to work. With pressing the axis button and then the 1/2 button halves the reading, but that's not the diameter mode (unlike some other video's tell you), because when repeating those steps, you get 1/4, 1/8, 1/16 etc.. and there is no coming back from it.. In the settings I had set device mode to 'Lathe-2' and diameter mode ('r/d') to '1' for the X axis and thought that was a requirement. Wrong! Setting this prevented the diameter mode to work, no idea why. So leave this setting to '0' (radius). When the device mode is 'lathe-2' pressing the 1/2 gets you into diameter mode. Pressing t again gets you back to radius mode

I guess these instuctions cover all SNS-3V and SNS-2V models too

A thousand thanks for posting this!! I'm a little late to the party since you posted this about 3 years ago, but I just finished my first BP top end rebuild. Everything was successful but I do have about the same amount of play as you show in this video. Runs nice and quiet except for that clutch rattle in hi. I've never seen this info anywhere else (I'm a bit of a newbie to BP) and I am so glad I ran across this. Thank you so much for sharing this!! Oh, the shaft on your speed selector does look bent, mine was perfectly straight. I'm sure you've addressed it by now though.

Thanks! I have that same clutch rattle, just not as bad. This will help me solve that.

Thank you for this video! I did not believe it would work but it worked! Took two seconds to do. Such an easy fix. FYI I have a X500. 2007 model year. (I think)

LA130?

I have this lathe, why is hard to pull my back gear out to engage and it is very hard to push back in. Also the headstock leaks oil. You’re advise will help me to resolve George

You would have done better to have a rigid pipe on the end of your hose like a 20' piece of copper line , It doesn't have to be big or high pressure Just constant volume at 32psi. The smaller rigid tubing would stay at the bottom of the hole were it pushes the load of water and sediment from the bottom and doesn't move with the water surge floating atop the rising column. . Also restricting the casing opening with an elbow and slowing the gas expansion at the surface will move more material out of the casing and allow you to make a constant surging cycle with a 11cfm compressor.

interesting. I need to do this to my well. My pump quit after 25 years so I'm currently "acidizing" my well with 12 gallons of muriatic acid to open the mill slot to allow higher water flow. This is a common practice. So this winter I'll "air blow" the well like you did and then add 20 galloons of muriatic acid and let it set all winter.

Would this work on a X734?

INTERESTING 💪🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Whew' thank you. I’ll have to watch five more time to get this.

Hey man is there any way to DM you? I have the same lathe and need help finding/making/or possibly buying some replacement parts

I’m restoring a lathe just like this. I lost the little metal piece hanging off the carriage you can see it on frame 1:23. Does anything have manual for this machine? I want to get the rough dimensions so I can make replicate one. Thanks

I never would have found that!! Thanks

Ozarktools sells a good service manual for this lathe. I haven’t figured my threading chart out yet lol. I put mine on D 6 for 24tpi but its not cutting 24tpi. Any pointers? I really appreciate u making this video series

Deep Well Submersible pump may have Calcium carbonate, silt, clay, iron sulfides, and iron and manganese bacterial “biofouling”, a combination of sediment and deposits, are all common well cloggers. Deep Well cleaning should be flushed every 2-5 years for optimal performance. We have installed an Iron removal tank. No iron and sulphur smell. Yours is 81feet, look at the water and debris.. looks better at the end... great work. Thank you for your video!

Hello could you help me to figure out why my L 118 runs fine till it gets hot maybe 30 minutes going up a hills it does not want to pull me bare enough to park it? Got any idea why my mower would do this p? Thanks sherry.

What size of fuse is that? 100 Amp Maxi fuse?

I just bought an 09 x320 and your green and gray helped me save time , thanks so much . My wife drives it more than me as she is cutting the grass now , Happy wife Happy life . had to use a jumper wire !

That's awesome man way to make something old better than what you can buy today 👍

Thanks for the vid! You're right...there isn't much content on these lathes. I actually have one with every conceivable option except for a follower rest. Options I've never even seen before. It came with two steady rests. The reeves drive needs some attention, but it's not unrepairable.

Have a question for you, the pully on the end that drives the spindle with the two belts on my 14 in Rockwell will move back and forth about 1/8 in. how is the pulley secured to the spingle so I can tighten it up, any help is appreciated thanks.

I have exactly this trouble on my bridgeport j head series I. Can you help me how to fix this problem? Please..

I've been looking for a video like this . I have a 1943 Monarch lathe same model as Abom 79 . Just changed the oil that Monarch recomended and after running it for only a few minutes the oil looks all foamy , I contacted Monarch and they said it is caused by the churnning of the gears , nothing wrong . I can see yours is doing the same thing so I feel better now . Thanks for the video .

The manual recommends a different method. Some have a lock nut on the bottom where that Allen is. Mine does not have it. 1. Release locknut N 2. Engage trip handle lever P 3. Adjust micro nuts against the quill stop (That part that moves up and down) 4. SLOWLY turn adjusting screw (that allen) until trip handle lever trips. If set to light the machine will not be able to drill 5. secure locknut N 6.Check for quick action response I got much better results doing this method after trying your method.

My feed lever won't stay engaged. Is there an adjustment for that?