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There is still her pheromones going up there, but they are not as strong now. Remember that Queen Mandibular Pheromones are transferred with the bees antennae. And normally the nurse bees are all around the queen. So when they are in the same box as the queen, the pheromones are that much stronger. Then the same interaction happens to the Queen. Since she is always completely surrounded by nurse bees and open brood, once all that moves 2 chambers up, it just really weakened the amount of pheromone shes use to having. Like smelling bacon cooking when you first wake up, then when you walk in the kitchen! 😁😁😁

@@drunkenknight53 do they look like European hornets? Because I've held European hornets by their wings before. They chase my bees. Lol

@strutt01 could. There are 3 different types. But you could be right. Just know there's a species of hornet that kills cicadas to reproduce.

I got to go down the rabbit hole now. 😁

​@@drunkenknight53Dude, I see what you mean now.

@strutt01 yeah wasps and hornets are crazy! But I looked at it more and think you're actually right. The black on its butt matches more with the European hornet.

@@Italiantonio76 yea, we've just always called them locusts. It's easier to say. 😁

Yea, he shook it off. :)

It's not a bald faced hornet, but I'm not sure what kind it is.

Thanks Galloway but that's not even my idea, That setup was how everyone did it back in the day. I just explained how it worked.

@strutt01 * Today, everything is as old as the latest post! 😎

@@gallowaylights so true!

I do industrial HVAC work so I understand anything thermal completely and thoroughly. 😁

Thank God. Someone gets it! Lol 😂😂😂

Location is everything. I tried some insulated and one non insulated last year and they all survived and did fine. The insulated ones used less honey for the most part. I would think in arid areas keeping the moisture in could be beneficial but we are very humid here. I’ll probably insulate some again and continue comparing out of curiosity. Our Broodminder sensors show they maintain the humidity at a rather steady level if it’s hot or cold or anywhere in between.

@@BrianCooper901 those brood minders look interesting. Do you have them in both hives?

​@BrianCooper901 * Some say they get less fly time, so slower growing. Due to not sensing the sun as quickly. I have some wrapped year round with 2" insulation... nothing jumps out at me as life changing😢

60-70 lbs. of honey is pretty good for a 10 frame deep in 21 days. I tend to see the boxes underneath fill up after they fill that top box. Hope the next box is more full. It will be easier to pull.

Since theres alot of nectar in that upper chamber, I would set up a robbing station and get it back into your hives right away. 70 lbs. of nectar and honey you don't want to ferment. And you retain your useful honey production. It might take them a few days to get it back into the hive, But it's probably the easiest foraging they have right now.

He's got a very interesting channel.

@@strutt01 he does but I was talking about Dan moret if yourbeard was a foot long

@@strutt01 he gets stung all the time he is hilarious

Lol.

The grumpy bees! Lol

Lol.

Can you beleive how accurate that thing is, it's like a toy.

I know right, all I have left is the evidence of the wood boring bees.

@strutt01 * And I can't do it. I evicted my carpenters with #8 hardware cloth and screws on all exposed undersides of wood!😞

@@gallowaylights I think I'm kinda like that too. I leave Gods creatures alone. But I do eat some of them.

A splosion of bees! Lol

I love your channel brother! I'm hooked! 😁

@@strutt01 * The truth is, channels like yours keep ideas fresh!

Like you said, just keep showing that love for the bees!

I made a couple newer updated videos on it recently. One for swarm control and the other for hive strength. It's helped me in keeping bees in every way. I love it. The bee keepers back then were a lot sharper than the folks we have running things today.

@@PennsylvaniaBeekeeper Long lost brothers! Lol !!!

How are you Mr. Speedy Blue!

@@greenhornbeekeeping what's a cat bird! Lol

@@strutt01 you don't have them I thought they were everywhere they make alot of sounds some sound like a car

@@strutt01 cat

kinda like our snipes? LOL

@@AftermathARMs it's getting complicated now. Now they are saying I will come back at 100% but it ain't going to be anytime soon.

If you know about any of the bloodlines, he has a pinch of Sackett Junior and I even seen some Yadkin Tar Rattler in his papers way back. 😁😁😁

I use dog food bags for almost everything. 😁

Yes, you can move the frames. I do that almost every time.

I like your answer. Youve had the same experience I've had. Lol. I won't use them in the summer time. But in the winter I use them to direct moisture to the front wall of the hive. Other than that though, I don't use them often.

Do you have a video of your version of a top entrance? I'm curious.

Y'all pulling Saturday?

WTH! I just seen your channel and you screw around with these bees more than I do! Gotta love it! :)

@@strutt01 * keep spreading your love for bees it's contagious 🫠

@@jf7654 Tropi freaks me out. I heard once you get 1 mite in a hive, the hive dies in 3 months.

@@strutt01Same on Tropi. Two things to keep in mind its looking like Varroa resistance like uncapping and sometimes pulling brood out are the same mechanisms Apis Cerana has to Tropi. Most of the European Honeybee colonies are in Asian countries with Tropi, and beekeepuing continues with decent survival rates. Also, if you speak to beekeepers in Northern china Tropi is only an issue in the summer but formic does the trick.

@@jf7654 I think the combination of Tropi and Cerana is why China sells all manipulated honey. Like between having Cerana being a low honey producing bee, then constantly having to split hives because of Tropi. China simply cannot make any serious amounts of honey. They literally have to mix what little honey they have with sugar honey. But thats pure speculation. It makes the most sense to me.

Yes try to. I always try for 30 days, that way the upper brood chamber has emerged and there's probably a few frames emerged from the new brood chamber. You'll probably be right in the middle of the flow when the highest bee numbers are there.

It's like a jungle in these mountains. Ticks are hardcore. When I hit my hives on Rt.64 I'll get 10 ticks on me.

It's an ultra light. I have the wings off of it right now. I've never flewn it, I just found it at an estate sale. 😁😁😁

Yea, I'm going to have to do something about a mic. I might get a lapel mic or something.

It's just the feeder I use. It's the old school hive top Dadant alot of people don't like because it will drown alot of bees if you don't address it's issue. I made 3 videos about it. 1 for drowning mod 2 for trickle feed mod 3 using as an open feeder And if your into quilt boxes, it's good for that too. czcams.com/play/PLYxaWs6s7c_Ax0Y2VfGBl1MtwgqFA27hy.html&si=ngvrdF2GvtUVuSyJ

@@strutt01 sweet thanks I will have a look

@@garyfish5739 hope it helps!

Thank You Gary, I appreciate that. With small cell , they use to make plastic foundation. But I think the market dropped off for it. And yes the older brood comb gets the more cacoons it has in it and the smaller the cells get. The smaller the bees get the smaller the cells they build. They still make wax foundation but I'm more apt to just let the bees make their own since they are already smaller in size. Healthwise I think the number of bees offset the size of the bee. Killer bees are like super soldiers, they are still apis malifera, they are small cell size and they need nothing from us to live. And I have very few issues with my bees. The main issue would just be queens getting old or failing somehow.

@@strutt01 right on thanks man. I have only just started keeping bees and theres a lot to learn. I am using wax/wire foundation this year hoping to quit doing that next year.

Keep those hives level from left to right, wire the frames well and you'll really appreciate them. I'd tilt your hives forward too so the bees can remove debris easier. I'm not certain but I think the bees draw the comb faster without foundation anyways.

Oregon and Washington state reminds me of that old t.v. show Big Ben!!! We use to love that!!! 😁😁😁 And Thanks for the compliments, I really hope this helps. With colder temperatures I would try to play it safe on my first few Demarees and that way you'll start to notice. 1. Hive strength 2. If you get chilled brood 3. Are drones present yet? That could be a good way to time your first Demarees. And if the hive would abandon their Queen, you'll have alot of cells to make a new one. And I promise if your first few Demarees are successful, you'll start to swear by them.

OMG brother, yes we have some monsters around here. They are bigger than crows. Then I hear whiporwhills and owls at night too. Like literally right outside my window. LOL

I never do because the queen truly does think she just swarmed. It"s going to be a while before she gets that urge again.

I see the logic in that, but I would consider a double brood chamber first. With the excluder over the 2 new brood boxes. Like make it a double brood chamber as your performing the Demaree. Then that way your not getting back deep into the hive again for ??? I would definately have at least 2 frames of brood and a frame of food in a double brood chamber. ( But I have not tried this yet, you would be a citizen scientist for sure) If the queen lays 2000 eggs/day would be about 3 days per frame, times 20 frames? Really even with just 9 frames of drawn comb your looking at 27 days to fill. Wich she will have brood emerging before she gets back to laying round 2. So yea alot of it will depend on your flow and how prolific your queen is. You got my wheels turning again. 😁

@@strutt01 I am in MD and run double deeps year round. I am also a "organized Neat" kind of person so for me I like everything in what I would consider "order". Once I put the supers in the middle of the split personally I would want to get my hive back to its double deep orientation with the supers above so my brain can handle the way I prefer my hives LOL (Its a me thing totally lol). I was thinking after your example once the top box is pacified from producing a queen I can just stick that back over the bottom queen right box and put the supers over and bee off the the races. As I review the Demaree process I always get the meat and potato's of the process but the end I feel like always tails off differently for different folks. Much appreciated for your time and video, great work!! And Thank You!

@@jblaas8699 My thoughts too with people doing things differently. It sounds like you would still prevent the swarm. But the timing would be alot different getting alot of brood and nurses back to the queen pretty quick. I'm not sure how the queen would behave. I know when the queen is in her brood nest, the pheromones the open brood gives off is alot stronger than when she is 2 boxes down from it. And all the nurses. They transfer all their pheromones with their antennae. Have you tried this before? It's interesting for sure.

@@strutt01 I have not tried it yet. I am a 3 year keeper and am planning for next year after winter. I would want to wait until 2/3 of the brood has emerged up top before putting this back on the bottom,, would only be a few weeks. At that point there should only be a small amount with brood and nectar. I would hope the bees would move the nectar to open laying space for the queen but unsure. Does the honey from the brood chamber up top taste any different or do you use the deep up top to feed back in winter etc.? I would really not want to have a deep 10 frame full of honey on all of my hives to use in a different way and not be able to or choose to extract it as edible honey. This is my main goal of what I am trying to avoid.

@@strutt01 thanks

Your welcome!

@strutt01 what area of the country are you in? I appreciate both your videos I've seen on the Demaree method. I'll be trying them next spring.

@@benschmitt5619 I'm in West Virginia at 2600 feet elevation. So it's ag zone 6A-B, But yea it's almost all forest where I'm at.

@@benschmitt5619 And thank you, I hope it helps you like it did me. It gave me a huge break between inspections.

Thanks, got it.

I like your enthusiasm. Your brain works like mine. 😁 Also to see a better picture, click on the link to another youtube video in the description. It's an animated version without the commentary. And yea the running out of space for hives is what caught my interest in this method myself. I feel your pain! Q#1 But first question, you should never get a queen in the top chamber if you go back 7 days after your Demaree and you make sure to knock down every queen cell.( make certain of this, shake the bees off the comb if you must) Q#2 Now that the old brood chamber(currently hatching out and going to backfill with honey) is on top and the new one is on bottom, the queen in the bottom thinks she swarmed. so no more splitting. Q#3 Weekly inspections are going to be tough once you Demaree, your going to have at least a stack of 3 now. Just make sure your hives are healthy before doing this manipulation. Your next brood inspection isn't really necessary for a month if your in a strong flow. If your flow is over then just inspect whenever you want.(The queen truly thinks she just swarmed, shes going to be happy a while) Q#4 If your in a heavy nectar flow and think your hive is going to swarm then yes, do this manipulation again. (It's going to take your queen a while to fill this new brood chamber up again) And even if you don't catch it till you see capped queen cells this manipulation will stop it. Q#5 The upper brood chamber is going to convert to a super as all the brood hatches out. There is debate on where to add supers, but yes keep adding supers as necessary. Q#6 The Demaree is always one hive. Once you knock down the queen cells in the upper chamber then all that brood will hatch out after 24 days (because of drones) and they will fill that chamber up with honey. Then after you pull honey and prepare for winter, yes treat it as a very strong hive going into winter, Either leave plenty of honey for them or feed them. Hope this helps, and if your not comfortable yet, no rush, this is an advanced manipulation. I done it for three years before really getting to know it inside and out. I love it. It's really made everything easier.

@@strutt01 @strutt01 I get it now. Makes total sense. I missed the part about removing ALL the queens cells because I was thinking this is a vertical split method to get 2 hives. I can't wait to try it out next year. Thanks for the info.

Hey brother, if you have any strong nectar flows coming up then do this. If not then wait till next spring. You'll get 100 lbs. of honey on one hive. You'll get more if you keep drawn comb on them. And it's not something I came up with, it's a guy named George Demaree back in 1864 that came up with it. He posted it in the American Bee Journal back then. Ive been doing it for a few years now and have it all hammered out. :)

@@strutt01 well if I have any problems I'll reach out to you but it does make sense

Keep em rolling brother

@@jeremymcatee6293 agree you get another hive. But the honey production is where the Demaree really shines. That and you buy a solid month of no needing to get into your brood chambers. I know the Demaree looks like a lot of work, but I literally done one in March, then 1 in April and didn't have a single swarm. All my queens had marks on them 2 weeks ago. There are so many things happening with this one manipulation, I don't think any one person can do it justice because it was all but forgotten just a few short years ago. It literally turns your bee hives into monsters. Ex. You remove the entire brood chamber but yet you still have it in the same hive. The queen doesn't realize that. So she goes gangbusters on laying brood and building comb and thinking she just went through a swarm. Now you have her entire old bird chamber hatching and her entire new one coming right along. She never stops for a moment. And I'm going to cover on how to do the Damaris for building up your hive strength next. This example was to prevent swarms. The next example is going to be on building your hive strength in time for a strong nectar flow. In hive health is off the charts.

Then think about this, as long as you have those nurses away from the queen, her swarm instinct is going to be less. That and all her laying room. When you go back to knock down queen cells in the top chamber, how many splits will you be able to make? There are going to be a whole lot of queen cells up there. But keeep that in mind if your taking brood from that upper chamber too, those nurses will start returning to the brood chamber where the queen is. I personally haven't made any splits that way yet but I can conceive it could be done.

@strutt01 it will work pretty well. Your only limitation is how much honey you want to make. If it's a great queen and I want to expand my colonies, I will divvy them up and make 3 or 4. I've had them fail to get mated if it's done prior to the main honey flow, bit on a flow the return rate is excellent.

@@jeremymcatee6293 yeah I hate talking about Queens not getting mated. I had a heck of a time with that my first year or two. 🤮

Thanks and hope it helps.

Once my swarming threats are over, I pull all my excluders. Then I just watch my honey stores. But I know my nectar flows very well. I pulled all my excluders about 2 weeks ago and all of my queens had their marks. So for me, 1 Demaree in March and 1 done on April 15th prevented all my swarming 100%. I do have 2 other hives at another location I need to check. But even if they swarmed I really like these percentages.

O.k. I'm glad you mention the way you did it too because I didn't really like the way I came up with, but it did work.