Video

Pas de problème 😊

That’s awesome! 😎

I’m not sure that it can be made 100% correct, but there’s a couple methods that you could use. What you mentioned (nailing every other piece to studs) would help. Although if the pieces aren’t true to 8” there’s a chance you’ll wander off the studs. If it’s not too late to pad the windows and doors out, you could add some kind of padding horizontally that is nailed to the studs… then you’d have solid nailing on every piece.

Thanks for the compliment!

There may come a day when that happens 🤷🏼‍♂️. Fiber cement has silica which isn’t good either. It seems like everything we humans do has unintended consequences. Vinyl siding serves its purpose - for now.

You could follow this process pretty close to the same I would think. I might just take the nail fin completely off on metal J and only have a little rain tab. I think a lot of people run the trough a little long on the top j-channel to get the water away from the wall somehow…. It may be worth looking up metal j-channel installation techniques. Good luck!

Glad to help!

Working underneath a roof edge with no gutter while it's raining is the worst! Not only do you get normal rain falling on you but all the rain dripping off the roof edge right in your face, pouch, arms, etc. I absolutely hate working in the rain, its not so bad getting a little wet in a sprinkle but getting all my tools wet so they rust is the worst ever.

Yeah the install wasn’t spectacular that’s for sure! I’m split between keeping my joints 3’ apart and having a small piece on the end… typically I try to stay longer than a foot though. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Yep, double the fun! I’ve had my chalk line floating in my bags before. I’ve learned with that one though… as soon as there’s a little sprinkle my chalk line goes back in the trailer or in the house!

Hi Konrad, yeah chalking a line above openings is a good way to ensure the siding stays straight. There’s a few alternatives too: using a string line set out far enough where it passes by windows without being in contact with them, starting the siding above in a straight line and finishing the wall then coming back down to the bottom and just measuring up to the bottom of the siding, starting siding straight down low if you can and just kind of “sending it” and hoping that they line up up top (not really recommended).

Oh and a laser to shoot across everything, but you need to make sure that your measurements on each corner are accurate.

@@sidingschool a laser instead of a chalk line to reference to?

Yes as long as it works out for the top and bottom of the wall too. Sometimes with re-sides things can get a bit funky.

You’re welcome!

Thanks! 😊

That’s a joke, I’m glad to help though!

No problem! And yeah, it takes a bit of practice! Thanks for your comment!

Yep, they usually will…. I left out that I did see a different Dr first, but that was without insurance. He was kind and helpful, but ultimately I wasn’t comfortable with his level of expertise… he was more of a general surgeon who had done like 300 laminectomies (which is admittedly quite a bit). But also this Dr wasn’t very established at the practice he was operating out of, so I couldn’t really be sure of his history. Eventually I had to start all over again at NH Neurospine. And yep, it went like this: PT, shots, then surgery. There’s no a silver bullet solution from what I’m told. There’s many different ways to approach the problems. I was told I would need a L4-S1 laminectomy with fusion (by the first Dr), then just a L4 left laminectomy and discectomy, then L4-S1 laminectomy. I ended up going with Dr. Thomas’s final suggestion. I agree, It’s important to do your own research and find a doctor you can trust. Good luck!

Oof, yeah, vinyl can be sharp! Maybe twisting them together is the better option! I’ve gotten quite used to slipping them together, but it takes a while. I don’t really use even pressure, because then when something goes it tends to let loose completely (kinda hard to explain, but I tend to use small jerky motions).

@sidingschool 100% but thanks to your technique I got all of the j trim installed on my shed, I'll post a video and tag you once I've got the rest of the vinyl siding up!

Awesome, I look forward to seeing it!

Hey Bill, no problem! And yeah, I’d say go for it! I think more information is better! As long as it is factual.

There’s so many things to try before going through surgery that it’s crazy. I could’ve tried 100 more things I swear. I was never made aware of any suspicion of lymphoma. I worked my body hard for 25 years and I guess that’s what I get lol. I pray you recover well!

I recorded that with a GoPro Hero 10. And thanks! 😊

Hi, I’m in the Southern NH area. NH Neurospine is in Bedford, NH and has a partnership with Elliot Hospital in Manchester, NH. I’m sorry you’re going through all that! I’m glad you find my video helpful and I appreciate your prayers! I send a prayer your way too!

@@sidingschool thank you. I was writing my comment about half through your video and I heard you say something about New Hampshire .

A gap on the bottom or a bend outwards would kick the water away from the wall and act as a drip edge and that would be a better practice. A lot of manufacturers sell those kind of drip edge pieces and they are formed by a machine in a factory… it is a little more difficult to form something like that with a metal brake in the field and have it look nice, so I opt to go tight and the flashing still serves the purpose of wicking the water out from the top of the trim. Now the vents and everything below the flashing will still have to be watertight in their own right (as they should be anyways) or they will leak.

@@sidingschool Thanks for the quick response, that makes sense. I'm thinking about a different application, bending Z flashings for the water table and window trim of a garage I want to build out of rough sawn lumber -- all true 1" and 2" dimensions so the manufactured stuff isn't mostly tuned for that (more 3/4 and 1 1/2).

No problem! I believe most suppliers have 3/4” and 1” true around here (Southern NH). They may even have 1 1/2” too.

Hey thanks for your comment! 😃

😊

Thanks! 😊

Hey William, no problem! I’m glad it helped you out! And thanks for the compliments!

Hi, sorry I didn’t make the height and width requirements clear. The height requirement is 80”-80 7/8” as measured from the outer edge of the threshold to the bottom of the top exterior trim. Here’s a video from Andersen that better shows how to size the door: czcams.com/video/ajS5ayjhBEo/video.htmlsi=e8Dbp3b0uYnpKybh

Hey thanks for subscribing! I’ve seen barcodes and numerical codes on a lot of siding, I think that they would help each manufacturer identify the production run (but that is just a guess). I’m not sure if the code could help identify the manufacturer… it would be nice if it could though.

Thanks!

😊

No problem!

You’re correct! Vinyl siding should be fastened in a way that it can expand and contract freely. Now really short pieces of j-channel I tend to not be too careful about nailing a little tighter or clipping the edge of the nail holes with a staple. When you j around a block like I did here all the ends are locked in place and there’s really no room for expansion…. When it comes to vinyl siding, I use a staple gun with a special tip that leaves the staple proud of the nail fin and allows the siding to expand and contract as it should. I have installed vinyl siding for about 16 years and have had maybe 4 callbacks. It may be better to tape the housewrap. All the seams are facing down and there’s plenty of overlap in the vertical overlaps. So there’s very a minimal chance of water intrusion. To my understanding taping the seams in the housewrap is mostly for air sealing and not many builders or homeowners want to pay for the extra tape.

@@sidingschool I see well here in Canada we have extreme hot and cold weather it is crucial it can move freely!! A little of that house wrap tape around the J mold can help also!! that vinyl can move a lot more than people realize!! I still don't think the House wrap is done right LOL :🙂

The temps in Southern NH go from -25 degrees Fahrenheit to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. My j-channel (and siding) look nice in all weather conditions AND after years of expansion and contraction. On a side note: my cousin and I did a test on a piece of vinyl, we took it from outside -10 degrees and put it inside with the heater going… it grew from exactly 40” to 40” 1/4”! The aluminum flashing that is over the PVC block is installed underneath the housewrap and sheds water properly… in my opinion there’s no point in taping the j-channel to the housewrap (it would be extra work for no benefit, and there’s no literature that I’m aware of that recommends doing that). And finally some state or town codes may require tape on all seams in housewrap, the town I was siding in in Southern NH does not require it and the homeowner didn’t want to pay for the extra tape or labor. There’s many ways to do things. Some ways are flatly wrong and a lot of ways come down to preference. Just because someone does something differently than you doesn’t mean it’s wrong. This house will stand for many years and will be protected from the elements with the methods I used.

@@sidingschool There is a reason for the tape LOL to seal it period or they would not even make it?? I'm not saying your job is no good looks like you do it good I am referencing many subdivision jobs that I see buckling Just saying do not put the staples through the vinyl it needs to move 🙂

I’m happy you’re not saying my job is no good. I take a lot of pride in what I do. And people in my area prefer to have me do their siding work because of my quality. The literature for this specific housewrap doesn’t mention taping the seams. Tape is useful in a lot of situations (taping over flashing, windows, nicks in the housewrap, etc.) and I always have some on hand. We’ve both said our part about the tape, I’ve said it is ideal to tape, but not everyone wants to pay for it. I’m not sure if you are implying that my vinyl will bubble or if you are simply talking about what you’ve seen. But as I’ve said multiple times now, my vinyl CAN move… I don’t put staples through the vinyl and the tip of my gun is adjusted to set the staples proud of the nail fin. I have no bubbling vinyl on any of my jobs. I’ve been doing this for a very long time and I am well aware of the tolerances of vinyl siding.

You’re welcome!

Hi! The app is Construction Master Pro… I think it is the same company that sells the physical calculators at most hardware stores. I prefer the app because I usually have my phone on me.

Yikes! I did a job once where the previous sider only nailed every 4’ or so. We left the pieces on the wall, unclipped them and added staples to all the vinyl siding on the whole house! It took about two days for two guys. What type of siding do you have and what part of the country are you in?

The methods I used in these videos should work for you. Once you’ve established what brand, color, style etc. your siding is you’ll probably have to contact a local medium to small size siding company and ask them to order a piece for you. Good luck!

Probably too many! Good thing what I was talking about has no bearing on the performance of the siding at all 😊. It was an aesthetic thing on the back of the box, that you can’t see. It probably settled down on its own by now.

Here’s some information you might find helpful regarding stapling vinyl siding: The following is a link to Certainteed’s installation instructions - see pages 35-36: certainteed.widen.net/content/2yoyd9b0zb/pdf/siding-installation-guide-04-03-1099-US-EN-230602-combined.pdf?u=nwk4fd And here’s a link to the VSI installation instructions - see pages 12-14: www.vinylsiding.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/2020-VSI-Installation-Manual.pdf I’m not sure exactly what you are trying to say, but the staple gun nose and air pressure are set so that the staples are not driven tight… the siding is free to expand and contract as it should. As I’ve proven with the above links, staples are approved by both the VSI and Certainteed. I’ve installed vinyl siding for 16 years and can count my callbacks on less than one hand 🖐️. I agree that sometimes it is easier to hand nail on re-sides for various reasons. Thanks for your comment!

Awesome! I’m happy it helped you out!

Yeah, I tried a different camera angle and editing method. I’m probably going to remake this one.

I stopped worrying too much about comments on my pricing. I’m going to do a great job that’ll protect the house for decades. If they want to go with someone who is willing to slap the siding on then walk away and not worry about the house rotting out, then I’m not trying to compete anymore. I can’t in good conscience skip necessary water proofing steps even if it causes me to lose the job.

Thanks!

There are drip caps that have the edge kick out which is good too, it is a good idea to kick the water away from the wall. For this flashing the outer lip of the flashing is 1/2” down the block… water would have to go uphill in order to infiltrate, I don’t think there is a very high probability that that will happen. I prefer the way it looks to have it tight against the trim as opposed to a gap between it and the block.

@@sidingschool oohhh I see, that makes perfect sense

It sounds like whoever installed the siding didn’t use Z flashing or if they did, they didn’t either seal the top of it to the housewrap or put the top edge underneath the housewrap to prevent water intrusion. Vinyl siding and j-channels are not completely waterproof. There may be methods to limit and/or prevent water intrusion entirely, but that isn’t the way it is meant to be installed. The main line of defense against water intrusion is proper installation of housewrap and flashing pieces.

Thanks! I’m glad you liked it! 😊

Great to hear! You’re welcome!

Here’s an affiliate link to the tool I used: Malco siding removal zip tool amzn.to/3COkLrw If you don’t want to buy it from Amazon you can probably find a siding zip tool at your local lumber yard or big box lumber store like Home Depot, Lowe’s etc.

Thanks! I didn’t really start the channel for self promotion cause I have and can get plenty of work. I guess it’s a good idea to try to expand my business though! Right now I’m recovering from back surgery and I have a month or so before I can do much. I’m working out of Southern NH btw. If you want me to quote a job for you feel free to email at brandonconstructs at gmail.com

Well… it was technically the nail that was protruding up through the slot of my tape lol. I might’ve clipped my tape a couple times though. 😇 Interesting thing about tapes is not all of them read the same. I had a different brand and style tape than one of my employees and mine read 1/32” big and his read 1/32” small. So every cut he was making for me was 1/16” short.

@@sidingschool I'm literally siding just the back side of my house, takes me an hour just to think about what I''m doing LOL

It’s not a race, take your time and make sure the clips are fully engaged. Even if you have to measure every course until you get the feel for it. Good luck! 👍🏼

Well there you go 😊. Good luck! FYI, most manufacturers call for a 3/4” or so gap underneath the j-channel against roofs because they are concerned about the shingles heating up the j and making it bubble/melt… I live in a cooler part of the country and I’ve never seen an issue with it being installed tight. Also holding the j-channel up leaves the shiny step flashing visible and imo doesn’t look very good.