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The clock dates to 1900 give or take ten years. The number on the clock will be the serial number.

I’ve just bought an old grandfather clock with one weight on chains. I’ve always had two weighted grandfather clocks so not sure how to wind it up and where to put the weight? Does that make sense?

21:40 your levers that I think you got from ebay. Can't find them. Can you give us a link for those exact levers???

That was really good that!

Got the triple fusee I am working on back together and chiming striking as it should re you tube. czcams.com/video/QyciR1n7MNw/video.html . First time I have done a triple fusee clock.

Got the plates together and the chains on, just letting the stike side run down, keep tensioning the barrel. Running down slowly because of the fly. On the chime side the fly goes on afterwards.

I don't put cast brass plates in the ultrasonic tank, the amonia based cleaner can get into the pores of the plates. Also on these the plates are generally too big for mine. Have you tried rustins brass restorer, I use it sometimes. I don't like to take the original lacquer off if it is in pretty good condition. I also take plenty of photographs as well.

I am working on a triple fusee bracket clock movement, putting back together . Had problems, barrel end caps came off chime and going and had to be re hard soldered, while taking spring out sorted now, and the removable end caps had to be worked with a plannishing hammer so they would click in the barrel slots, and not come out . 2 of the fusees were also seized up initially, the toothed wheels wouldnt budge.So some repair work to do after it was taken apart. Also going fusee was stiff in its bushing hole, not sure how that happened. And the strike fusee was very loose in the bushing holes and had to be rebushed. They were put in their correct holes, each fusee was a different size, and each individual train put in to check for depthing issues but was o.k. Before this the 3 trains had to have rebushes as well. So now ready to be put back together. No wonder it wouldnt run , with all these issues.

Looks very good and well made John. For belt and braces, I would bolt the running board to the frame. It always scares me when the weights aren't fitted that the movement might topple over.

Eh up John. Grand job with the clock stand,certainly substantial with scope to modify for other sizes of clock. Made something very similar to put my small milling machine on. Heads up though. Keep an eye on the timber shrinkage as it attunes the the indoor conditions Thanks again for another video. Cheers Martyn.

Just been offered one of these... It's been converted to 240, is it worth it,? Worried about parts etc

John, Just picked up a Drummond the same as yours, mine has two teeth missing of the automatic gear. Not an issue at the moment but when I have worked out how to get the gear wheel of, I will find a replacement or get it repaired. John I am retired so no urgency in any work I do. Trevor I enjoyed your video

Any tower clocks in your collection?

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Could be out of beat

I have a clock very much like this, currently in a horribly damaged case because the builders who were told to carefully cover and protect it misheard "it's not a family heirloom"(my mother bought it) as "it's worthless trash, kick it around and splatter plaster onto it as much as you like and if you want to see if you can wrench the door off its hinges, hey, have fun!". To my untrained eye, the working parts look pretty much identical aside from the fact that the weight's on a rope rather than a chain. In fact it's so similar, aside from the art and signature, that it makes me wonder if the faces were mass produced and then customised by the individual clockmakers - the cutout for the date is identical. I had to do a tiny little repair to it some time ago, it would run and then stick at about twenty to - turned out that the lever that triggers the chiming mechanism was sitting a tiny bit too low down, so that rather than come up underneath and lift it, the peg on the gear would jam into it end-on. Somehow all I had to do was push it up a little bit, and it didn't fall down there again. Anyhow, thank you for this video, you've helped me to put a rough date on how old my clock is.

Hey John, liked the "french'' stand and the winder too, thanx for posting these. Rex

I have exactly the same model Drummond. It is a curious feature of these that they will do 360 degree indexing with the headstock. The way this is accomplished is by using the back gearing whose tooth pitch is the same as the change gears. When the back gear pair is engaged, it creates a 9 to 1 reduction to the spindle. So one can flip the little stub around (the one sticking out at the top of the rear spindle bearing) and mount a convenient size of intermediate gear on it which is meshed with the small gear on the back of the main spindle. With this intermediate gear one would then mesh a 40-tooth gear using the L-shaped carrier for the change gears. 40 times 9 is 360, so that each tooth of the 40 tooth gear gives one degree of indexing at the main spindle and the lathe chuck or faceplate. Almost no extra parts are needed if one has the original change gear set which includes a 40-tooth and a number of others suitable for the intermediate gear. One simply rigs up something that will embrace a given tooth of the 40-tooth gear to lock it in place. My lathe has a tiny broad arrow stamped on the tail stock end of the bed, showing that it at one time belonged to the British military. It carries a 1908 serial number.

Best "Mainspring" video on CZcams, thanks very much for the information.

That looks more like a shop made clock from a kit more than an original 1800’s clock , I normally only restore torsion clocks but I purchased a skeleton clock that had fallen off a shelf that had extensive damage, bent plates, bent dial, broken hands , had to straighten dial and send away for re enamelling get later cut hands make new collets for hands straighten plates find an original Victorian dome and base , at the end of the day I ended up with a very nice Victorian skeleton clock with passing strike but if I had to do it for a customer it would have been a lot of money, I get torsion clocks sent to me from all over the country because most clockmakers won’t touch them and it always amazes me what bodges are done.

love this!

I don't want to hurt your feelings but it looks like your tail stock needs to be adjusted.

came across a bracket clock wetch braket liverpool maker like that be hive

The vernier looks the same as mine that came from Aldi, it calculates circumferences which I've never needed. I just found your channel, and like any skilled trade, the man doing it full time is the proper expert in the real world! Thanks for sharing a lot of trade secrets.I have been making and trying to repair clocks (400 day) for about five years in my great old age. (great meaning large in numbers)

Good CZcams videos👍 Keep going. I own 4 30 hour long case clocks, all have been restored and purchased through specialist clock restorers over the years. It is good to see someone in the UK producing these so credit to you. Don’t get me wrong, there is a wealth of knowledge on you tube, all over the world, but it’s great that I have stumbled across your channel. I have found bending the crutch difficult in order to get a clock in beat. We have just moved, into rental having sold our house, I carefully dismantled the clocks as Indidnt want them going into storage. Anyway along story short, all set up and running but one of them is running slightly out of beat. This was my first 30 hour clock and I know that the crutch is very difficult to bend. I appreciate that it doesn’t need much, but in someways and I know it’s not cheap but I would much rather leave the maintenance to a specialist. Any tips or suggestions would be most welcome. Regards Jeremy

I have one I am repairing for a friend. The movement looks identical. John Jackson London is on the face. Tim Ward (I brought in the springs for cleaning a year or so ago)

Do you know how they historically made those taper pins? And the matching drills or reamers? That has always baffled me

...and then what happened? I assume you're ok; the video ends without us knowing. Thanks for posting this public safety announcement.

Very clear procedure. And with emphasis on safety glasses and strong gloves most particularly with these heavy springs. Even when I fit a new spring in a French clock by hand - they are small enough to fit by hand and in fact because they are so small a mainspring winder presents problems as l am sure you know, l still wear gloves and goggles as l show in my video. Thank you John - an excellent video specially on your recommendation to replace old set springs.

I glad you showed this video. These things are dangerous!! This happened to me twice.

Thanks for the video, where do you get the sleeve for that size spring i have a fusee spring waiting to go in the barrel, but I can't find a sleeve big enough?

Thank you and so glad you took a shot of the packaging. Iooking forward to hearing confirmation it's OK and permanent.

Thank you John I am so pleased that you are not averse to replacing old mainsprings. There is a school of thought that these are best left in. But my thinking follows your expressed advice. Replace them if in doubt. Yes it adds cost to the job but a good deal less than a return trip, strip down, replace and rebuild. Following the thought against replacing springs in my limited experience I have worked on some continental reasonably good quality mantle striking and Chiming Clocks with designs such as to allow spring removal without opening the plates. Ergo! The makers design for spring replacement so forget what they say about don't replace them - replace them if in doubt and you can stand the extra cost. Thanks John and my guess the clocks age is best estimated by the fuse? Movement - usually adds age? I'm not qualified but at a guess - older?? Kind regards Simon

Great job on the cases Steve, would be nice to see you working on one, or are you camera shy 😂

Case repair is another skill of its own, and youve done a great job. Well done. Would love to see some of the cleaning techniques you use.

The griptru chuck you had on there to begin with was a very nice one

Hi, can you tell me the company in Doncaster who supplied the clutch parts? I have a 1957 and the right hand rod that fits into the clutch handle is slightly bent and so the clutch handle vibrates , Tony

Hello. Not sure if you are aware that the 3 jaw chuck is adjustable. It is called a griptru. I did a video of stripping one down to see how it worked. Can be very accurate for a 3 jaw. I have the later Super 7B which has a different type of clutch. Take care. Steve.

How do you clean the movement?

I wish you were in the states. Ive been trying to self teach myself on clock repair. So hard to find good videos like yours. Glad to have found you!

guitar picks, a great idea John. Regards David

Titebond animal hide glue is pretty good. Easy to separate if heated and will break before splitting the wood, which might be an advantage if the clock falls off the wall.

Hi John, I will be interested to see how the acrylic paint looks. If you scraped the old paint off, could you use the elephant wax instead, it might be an easier approach? Anyway stock up on the baked beans, it will be a long job!

Bravo! And thank you for your valuable time.

Thanks. You cut out the mystic and illustrated the components you use. Wonderful work. Skillfully done for everyone to understand.

Thank you once again. Hands on practical advice. Very much appreciated.

I agree that's a marvellous machine. Mine's a similar age (and so am I). I notice you've fitted a new chuck. Was there a problem with the three-jaw chuck that came with your Super 7? I only ask because it was a 'GripTru' chuck, which can be adjusted to achieve excellent concentricity - it's a bit of a premium item.

Great video

Nice machine for its age... a little newer than the one I use. You're missing the two oil nipples on the bearings of the intermediate shaft. That might have something to do with the noise level? Having said that, yours sounds much the same as mine.