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I have found both the videos that you have produced, re Tolerance and Fit highly informative, but like @mingmac I have the same question, is there a way that these tolerances can be saved be saved into Fusion360 for future use. I have researched t'internet and am unable to get a definitive answer to the question.

Heyo! Technically speaking, you are correct, a lot of what I'm explaining in this video “could” be done in the slicer and I've been really impressed but what slicer programs can do and how much they have evolved over the last few years. But, as Dr. Ian Malcom says (kinda lol), “just because you can do something doesn’t mean you should”. In my opinion the slicer method is a solid ‘hack’ if you are using someone else’s CAD / don’t have the ability for to modify the CAD file BUT it has limitations as complexity increases. Let’s say for example you have an assembly that needs to snap together in one area but have a working slide or rotational hinge in another… for something like that I’m going to need to have localized control over fit offsets. I also work across platforms so I can’t always rely on a slicer. When I'm CNCing for example it’s important to understand the underlying principles to get everything to work / program toolpaths properly. Overall I think if the slicer is working for your applications keep using it, but if you want to have more control over what’s happening ‘behind the curtain’ I recommend integrating the offset principles into your modeling process :). Cheers!

It's not important in this example, but if you need perfect lenght dimensions, it's important. I suppose that's why he shows how to do it.

Hey Jonnie, Appreciate the feedback. Your comment brings up an interesting point that probably warrants a follow up video from my side. I actually really like the convenience of the “Push / Pull” feature inside Fusion BUT I also think it has some issues, especially for beginners. My main issue is that it tries to do too much and combines too many other features together. Personally I like to be intentional with my features and order of operations so I don’t like how Push Pull contextually switches functions. Yes it keeps the timeline clean but it comes with the risk of losing your design intent/ your ability to track changes if you aren’t careful. The other (minor) issue I have as someone who bounces between CAD programs is that there’s no direct 1:1 in the other programs so that can be confusing for beginners. Regardless, you make a good point that by only explaining the basics principles for adjusting fit in this video I don’t explain the faster techniques for actually getting the job done.

Great question! The fun thing about 3D modeling is that there isn’t necessarily a right or wrong way in a lot of cases, it just comes down to what makes sense for you / what is the fastest workflow for you. Personally I like to use sketches whenever I can because it’s easier for me to keep track of and I feel that it minimizes the # of operations but yeah try out the extrude technique if that works for you!

⁠@@jetpackprojectgotcha, thank you for the clarification! You’re right about there not being a right or wrong way in 3D printing. I actually tried the extruding method to connect two pieces together, and it worked!

That’s great to hear! Glad to help and I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment! Totally agree with you, it was a transition for me as well to dive into the Fusion 360 workflow but now that I’ve used it for a while I do like the flow

Glad you like it and I appreciate the feedback, I will try to slow down a bit in future videos. Thanks !

That’s great! I remember being so frustrated with constraints when I started modeling too. Keep practicing and it will become second nature to you !

Hmmm that’s a tricky one, sometimes Fusion will automatically apply constraints you don’t want depending on where you click… try toggling the show/hide constraints in the sketch to see if that helps / shows any constraints you may not have expected

I may not be the best person to answer that question since I don’t sell any files currently, but I had got a commenter a few weeks ago who said that he’s found that the fit offsets tend to match up with the nozzle size 0.2mm nozzle = 0.2 mm transition fit. I haven’t tried this personally but it might be a good starting point for you. When you sell your parts maybe offer users 2 versions with the 2 most common nozzle sizes.

Hey patty, yes since each machine/setup has its own variance, you would want to test each setup individually… they may be close enough that you could use the same settings but you would want to test to make sure

@@practicalalchemy407 Gotcha, thanks! Where would you place the Z seam? Sharpest corner or random?

you are very welcome :). I appreciate the positive comments

Good morning! Try using the Engrave command

Different stokes for different folks…

Heyo! Hard to say for sure but I think the most likely culprit if you are converting an SVG from procreate is that there is a tiny break somewhere in your outline where two end points look like they are connected but don’t actually touch… this could also happen if there is a very short line or small corner that the program didn’t connect when you did the offset …. It can be a bit tricky to track down the culprit but if you go into your sketch in fusion and draw some lines across your artwork (like a large x or cross) and then try to project each of the created sections … the section that won’t project is the section with the bad endpoints. Once you’ve identified it repeat the process with a smaller area until you find the problem . Hope this helps!

This is a good point. A 0.6mm clearance may result in a good fit in one part and one material in one nozzle size, but a poor fit in another part, or another material, or another nozzle size. Even print orientation may have an impact. I suppose if you wanted to, you could create a variety of fit blocks for different materials, part sizes, in-fills, and nozzle sizes to help you dial in the right fit for what you intend to make.

Personally I find that it’s easier to think about each face individually but I think what you’ve said is perfectly valid if it’s easier for you to conceptualize that way.

If you are cncing I don’t think the chamfers are necessary since it would require additional tool paths / bit change But you will need to dogbone the corners of your female part to account for the radius of your bit

This may sound silly, and I’ve never talked with Autodesk about it, but I know from talking with other CAD platforms that the best way to get these kinds of changes made is to submit a support ticket… it’s really the only way for product managers to know what people want and to justify it to their dev team

Hi Hans, I agree with you 100%! In this tutorial I wanted to stick with the ‘vanilla’ / default setup in this beginners series to avoid throwing too much at the view but I do recommend resetting the z axis settings in subsequent videos. I’m Z Axis Up for life!

Thanks again for these video's @@practicalalchemy407

Hi Hans! Appreciate the comment! You are absolutely correct, you could use a center point rectangle and achieve the same result. There are 2 reasons why I didn’t in this tutorial: 1. I wanted to get the viewer comfortable with the fundamental logic behind the center point rectangle … that you can find the center of any rectangular area by locating the midpoint of the diagonal, which is a super important tool as you continue to build on your geometry. 2. I’ll admit this is a bit of a habit for me…. When I learned 3D modeling the center point rectangle tool didn’t exist yet lol. Thanks again!

Hey AJ! Appreciate the comment! You are correct, in order for the rack to work the way that I designed it you do have to oversize the slots. In my 1st round prototype I had a much tighter fit but found that it didn’t like it for my use case… I prefer to be able to easily ‘grab and go’ when the rack is hanging on the wall vs having a bit of resistance. But that’s all personal preference! In terms of the cut axis, I wanted the design to be easy to print or CNC without undercuts or draft so perpendicular made the most sense but you are absolutely right! If you want a really bespoke design you could extrude the cuts at an angle. This is actually a great example for ‘design tradeoffs’ (production speed vs. wrench fit accuracy)… I think you’ve given me a good idea for a follow up vid! Thanks! :)

Great tip! Based on personal experience I agree.

That is a really nice compliment! Thank you and I’m glad to hear the tutorial was helpful!

Thanks!!!! Very nice of you to say!

Great point! 2 independent variables / parameters may be required depending on your printer/ print settings!