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in amongst some pretty crappy woodworking tools from banggood, theres actually some very nice tools, hongdui tend to make very good ones, the router plane they sell is considerably cheaper than a veritas one ,and is excellent. theres also an excellent couple of mitre guages available for the tablesaw. cheers

,ow the lawn first, thats so funny

Wiha CentroFix, czcams.com/video/vGDg27AjQR4/video.html

This is a fantastic little machine. I produce a verticutter cassette for it, which transforms it into a great all-round lawn maintenance tool…

Thanks, very detailed presentation, I (my back) was dreading facing raking up all the moss by hand, but this will save me time and energy!

Absolutely brilliant Scarifier, the container throw away useless. But everything else fantastic. We'll done to the manufacturer's who made this.

I have also just purchased this jig and it arrived yesterday. Big Brother CZcams has clearly been alerted by my cookies and threw this review up in my feed LOL I thought your review was very clear, balanced and thorough. I have unpacked my jig although have not yet used it but can confirm that they have clearly updated it in the meantime as the drill holder twists and locks into the base - an improvement that I am sure you would have appreciated! :) Also, the Forstner bit seems to be covered in some sort of lacquer (presumably to prevent corrosion?) which may be responsible for an impression of bluntness for you? I intend to clean mine with thinners before first use so I am curious to see how mine cuts. Overall my first impressions of the jig are very positive - especially that I paid the equivalent of 31GBP for mine! Good design, robust and precise construction and they even included 2 little spanners to adjust the toggle clamp ;) Cheers from Poland! PS some other lazy YT reviewers have been cribbing from your review IMHO. They make some points that I only recall hearing in yours ;) I guess that makes you an influencer of influencers haha

Too bad they didnt combine the abilities into 1. Makes both useless

I bought one of these second hand for 20quid recently. The height adjustment wheel was very stiff going down and felt as though it would break. I took it apart, cleaned it up and added a couple of washers to the threaded part as it had worn and the original washers, they were mangled. It works fine now. The thread of the wheel pushes and pulls a triangular piece of metal that raises the whole motor, blade, shaft and mount. Theres a lot of weight on that tiny little wheel, it's a poor quality design and will be ripe for breakages after being used for a while. I am yet to set the saw up properly for accuracy but it seems a poweful and smooth motor with a good size blade.

Hi, Do you have a video of the grass coming back to life and spreading a few weeks or months after the scarification?

What a great review/overview! I just bought this same (but different brand) jig off Amazon, and as others have said, no documentation included so it was nice to get confirmation on the spacing, etc. Your production is top notch, editing is great, no annoying music and just the right cadence. P.S. the version I purchased off Amazon has corrected spelling on the front of the jig ("distance")

Currently on ebay with no brand name for £36

Take the netting off the basket which leaves you with a wire frame that keeps the flap open.

cut the grass first take then scarify may have to do it a couple of times going in different directions does look frightening after and you can apply grass seed on the on the worst looking patches also lawn feed ,it will all come back , eventually youl get good at it do once a year ,youl get good at it and have a good looking lawn.

I think you are only meant to do do one pass then perhaps a cross pass at a time. Apparently people who hire one for the day and go over it repeatedly to get it back just wreck the grass.

Dust extraction hole would have made the jig unaffordable 🙄

I bought the impaktor 1 set. The sliding collet is so annoying, I bought the bit holder from the number 2 set. People who write in the comment they prefer the rapidaptor, it is not suitable for impact drivers. That type is also useless when screwing drywall. Gypsum get in it and locks the mechanism.

In the beginning what's that tool you was using to punch the hole??

Doesn't the "2" have additional "torsion" zones?

In my experience the Wiha CentroFix is the best bit holder for hand tools. I don’t know if the CentroFix has the strength and durability needed for power tools.

Thanks for letting us know the forstner bit is non-standard shank. This is critical, and in my opinion, is a deal breaker.

What a load of nonsense.

Pile of crap if the drill bit is sub standard and nearly impossible to replace

I hsve fitted a medium inside a large at the top, with an ajustment to the screw holes.

Seeing this video and the reactions, gonna skip this one.

Does every workshop in the world have one of those Ikea stools kicking around?

Thanks for the clear, honest review. I've just bought this jig from Banggood, along with a replacement drill bit for £46. You will probably have worked this out by now, as your review is a year old, but just in case you have not... You can actually use the jig to set the position of the hinge bracket on the cabinet. I suggest you take a look at Casual DIY, who reviewed the jig recently.

I was reviewing this same thing and others like it with a different name. Some of the issues that I didn't like was where the arbor for the 35mm drill bit has to be held in by hand when drilling. They could have used two bolts to secure the arbor. The other two issues were with the slop in the arbor for the 35mm drill bit and for the small drill bit. And of course, a dust extraction would have been nice. The only thing that I liked about it was that it was made out of aluminum instead of plastic. Have a great evening!

Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for.

I bought the saw today. I just adjust things to work right. Be one with your tool 😁 I greased and oiled the inside elements that raise the blade and it now goes up and down fine. Compressed air will blow away build up or dust in the future and oil again. Plastic covers on bearings are in the bin. Always check fence with tape measure and that your angles are right with digital angle finder. And that the blade is square with the bed etc. The L brackets are for screwing/bolting it to the floor is my guess because the holes line up. Some tresles and away ya go, to cut some wood. im happy with this wee table saw, be positive. Adjust whats needed. Most cutting tools need a wee adjustment.

Where’s the narration from?

Could've easily been made more sturdy with two modifications. Which for something like this... well, they're basic and absolutely necessary (any saw with spindly legs, really). X braces on the long side of the saw, between the mounting bolts with the aid of 1mm flat stock (i would've made them with adjustable holes and upgraded the bolts to something more sturdy to give you the security of giving them the beans to really lock the assembly in place once squareness is achieved) one (or two for extra rigidity) X brace on the nearest side as well. This brace doesn't need to take the full brunt of the push, so the tie rods used for false ceilings that have an eyelet on one side and threads on the other could be used if they are joined in the middle with a piece of metal that has its corners bent and cut, such that a nut can be held captive in there for the 4 tie rods to be tensioned with (common practice for certain types of tie rods, but made DIY). Finally, on the braces that come with the saw, a piece of MDF (preferably HDF, which for example could be high traffic parquet pieces, jointed and screwed down with tech screws) to make a shelf and on that shelf weights added. Be they cheapo cast iron lifting weights or a few plastic bins with sand inside. There's various other mods that could be done, but as is, for what it is... it's a decent unit, me thinks.

I just looked at my rail. I can indeed get the full length with maybe a cm of the block hanging off the back. I install my rail offset back a cm. It’s possible my rail is longer or my rectangular tabs are shorter than yours.

I will have to check mine out. I just adjusted the fence plugged it in and used it and it’s been making square wood.

I love my dethatcher

...and for the overall final statement I'd like to add, that for the amount of money of this saw, there is no other one wich comes with this amount of real steel metal. And as a owner of a Scheppach tku from the 80s I have to admit, that the amount of adjustment know how and jigs you need to learn collect over time is quite a lot, before you are able to perform narrow toleances - 1/10 mm is a reproducible dimension for this saw concept. 😉

Please have in mind, that the small misalignment between blade and fence is a antikickback safety feature.

You are burning because you are running that bit way too fast. A bit of that size should be run around 250rpm. That's about half trigger on low speed of most cordless drills. It looked like you were at max speed while drilling. The surface speed of the cutter is what matters, and the bigger the bit, the faster the surface speed for any given RPM.

Just bought one of these. Where you see struggling to hold the bit you can lock it in by turning the bit holder

Jason Bent has mentioned the castors I use to move my J/P around. I can make the machine crab on a diagonal with minimal effort and turn around in its own footprint

Great video. I’ve had mine 2 years and love it.

Nice overview, gave me insight to prepare for my press. I will say to anyone assembling one, put the head onto a table and lean the stand about 45 degrees to meet up with it. Then angle and slide the head on and then stand the whole thing upright.

For the fence travel, engineer #1 never talked to engineer #2 and Quality never looked at the operation of the machine just the parts. It's hard to get a big company to change if their is no cost benefit.

Thankyou for making this video. I was about to buy one of these!

new electric motors sound rough until the brushes bed in.

Thanks for the comparison, I has also wondered. The ideal would be a locking 1/4 collet (I hate, hate, hate having my bit stay behind in the fastener all the time) with a magnet sleeve that extends to stabilize the screw, like the impaktor 1.

Purchased this jig and received a different version of the drilling guide for the hinge bit to that seen in this and other reviews. Instead of a pressed in bearing pressed in from the top, it had a bearing held in on the under side by a split ring, which on first use scored the drill bit (which was struggled badly and was not sharp at all). On examination the split ring was too big and protruded in to the opening of the bearing. The split ring moves and catches on the scores it made so it wasn't actually usable after that first test hole. Bang good customer service was a headache, offering only partial refunds and eventually replacement parts, but would not say if they would match the picture on the website. Best I could get from PayPal was a partial refund without shipping it back to China. Never using bang good again

Thanks, great video. Put a smile to my face kids and dog having fun.

When you start these single phase A3's always hold the green start button down until it reaches full speed. If you don't the start capacitors are stressed and they will fail somewhere down the track. The vertical bolt you slid the paper under should be adjusted to contact the under side of the table after it is locked down on the other bolt, leave the DI set up and monitor the height change as you bring the bolt up and start locking it down.

You could drill a new hole for the front rail bolt further back, so the rail can be moved back the same amount.